The tale of the 'Sombrero de paja toquilla' is a complicated and enigmatic one, Randall, particularly with the Montecristis. The weavers, most of whom are from the tiny hamlets of Pile and Las Pampas, are but one part of the creative process, which involves additional artisans such as the rematadora, azocadora, cortadora, and apaleadora, who finish the hats. The hats also pass through the hands of the commisionistas before ever getting to the master hatters who fashion them into the masterpieces of textile art that they are.
It is this lack of singular authorship which differentiates the Montecristi finos from other forms of textile, fine, and folk arts, I believe, and with a few notable exceptions, denies the weavers the recognition they deserve. From what I have been able to gather from primary and secondary sources, the weavers are compensated fairly for their work and live a simple life...not in abject poverty as they may have been portrayed.
Most of the finer Montecristis that I have examined have multiple pencil and ink markings on their interiors which I believe indicate(in code) the particular commission, grade, and perhaps the family of weavers responsible for the hat, as well as other logistical information. Some very fine hats bear the initials or signatures of the individual weavers, so it is possible to ascribe authorship, but this is an inconsistent practice. In many instances weaving is a family affair and there is collaboration between several different family members.
As with many other things in life, and particularly when it comes to luxury goods, there is an exponential increase in cost for diminishing, tangible qualitative gain, and this is certainly the case with Montecristis. The time involved in weaving the fino Montecristis increases exponentially based not just upon the weave count, but also the evenness of the weave, and what many do not realize, the size of the hat body and brim width.
Until I have had the privilege to walk the Panama Hat Trail myself, I remain open-minded about the current and future state of this art that I adore, and will leave you with the observation that exploitation does not engender refinement in any artistic endeavor, nor longevity in any business enterprise.
Thank you! :yo:
You are too kind, thanks! The jacket is 51% wool/49% linen.
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