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Opinions Wanted on New Jacket Please

Bonneville

One of the Regulars
Messages
173
Location
Canada
I think its a great looking M/C jacket and suspect a few different variations of it would look equally as good (for those who don't like pleats etc.) For me the look of the goatskin and its colour really contributes strongly. You mention that it is vegetable tanned. Is there no chrome tanning involved whatsoever? Based on what little I know about tanning would suggest that the jacket must have a fairly heavy top coat of some kind to seal it up otherwise the veg. tanned leather will be seriously affected by moisture. (if so there is actually no breathability now, ...maybe I have it wrong?).
Anyway, if I had the chance I would don that jacket in an instant prior to pulling away on my Bonnie. Very nice work.
Ted
 

Vic

One of the Regulars
Messages
169
Location
Los Angeles
I agree with the general consensus. I think it's a very good-looking jacket. Personally, I think I prefer the cotton plaid linings over the houndstooth...probably the #3 (red), in my opinion.

Anyhow, I'm very impressed. Well done!!
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Thanks gentlemen for the continued feedback.

Concerning the dual vs. single cinch belts (straps): IMHO the dual strap design works well ethetically and practically without being overdone. It keeps drafts out and tapers the waist. Single straps on most halfbelt jackets are placed too high to give any decent draft protection, they just taper the waist.

Hoosier Daddy said:
IMO...perfect length in body and sleeves...especially for motorcycle riding. I think it is a smart looking jacket with nice stylish features.

Thanks HD. While this jacket looks darn handsome in any situation ;) it is after all a motorcycle jacket and should behave as such. To me, clothes that have a "real" purpose or are considered "gear" always have more appeal, even if they are only worn as streetwear.

TheSnark said:
I just noticed there are no snaps or buttons to hold the collar. I suspect a goatskin collar of that width is going to flap around in the wind quite a bit. Just one more thing to consider...features.

Snap buttons would be a practical addition, however I don't think the would look right on this jacket. I was thinking of hidden buttonholes or straps but then that would mean sewing buttons on the jacket and when undone would look odd. A throatlatch might be more appropriate...

Bonneville said:
You mention that it is vegetable tanned. Is there no chrome tanning involved whatsoever? Based on what little I know about tanning would suggest that the jacket must have a fairly heavy top coat of some kind to seal it up otherwise the veg. tanned leather will be seriously affected by moisture. (if so there is actually no breathability now, ...maybe I have it wrong?).

The tannery told me it was straight veg tanned goatskin. The surface coat doesn't feel very thick at all compared to some goatskins I've handled which feel "plasticy". It has a supple and slightly waxy hand to it. That to me means there's some decent amount of oils in the leather. The other day when I wore it in the rain It did take on some water (it wasn't soaked perse but water did penetrate a bit). My interpretation is that the leather is porous and "breathes". My knowledge on leather isn't without limits so an informed post on veg tanned goatskin would be most welcome.

Vic said:
I agree with the general consensus. I think it's a very good-looking jacket. Personally, I think I prefer the cotton plaid linings over the houndstooth...probably the #3 (red), in my opinion.

Thanks Vic. The number 3 is nice indeed. I'm thinking of using it for a black jacket sometime in the future.
 

normanf

One of the Regulars
Messages
156
Location
Salida
Good designs!

I think for warmth, you could offer a snap-in sheepskin or fleece liner. That way the jacket is good for all season wear and warmth can be added only when its necessary. This is a feature of modern shells. The liner can be worn as a light coat so it would like having two jackets in one. Its gives you extra profit and if also if a buyer doesn't want it, he can just get the leather jacket. But the snap-in feature will be built into the jacket just in case someone wants the upgrade later.
 

JanSolo

Practically Family
Messages
879
Location
Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
Hi,

this really is a great looking jacket and the overall design seems to be a smart amalgamation of a couple of classic timeless designs. The choice of leather is excellent. If you've followed a couple of my threads you will probably know that I have fallen for goatskin (especially veg tanned) long ago. And I have to say that I also like the houndstooth lining, although it might look even better when paired with a black jacket...
Your jacket looks marvellous but there are one or two minor things that could be bettered..

What I would love to see in (and what would make me buy) a production jacket:

- A choice of a darker, more (milk)chocolate shade of veg tanned goatskin
- Hidden studs for the collar tips to fasten them when riding
- Better finish for the hardware. Sorry, but YKK's aged brass never looks
convincing imo. Black oxide, dull nickel or bare brass would look better.
- Heavy duty, poly cored and cotton wrapped thread in various colours
(brown, black, olive drab)
- Houndstooth lining in additional colours
- Super precise stitching for all seams

Good luck!!!!!
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
normanf said:
I think for warmth, you could offer a snap-in sheepskin or fleece liner. That way the jacket is good for all season wear and warmth can be added only when its necessary.

Believe me norman, the heavy wool tweed lining is very warm. I don't think a snap in sheepskin liner would be appropriate for this type of jacket. It is a slim fitting jacket and adding the extra bulk of a liner would be neither esthetic nor period correct.

JanSolo said:
- A choice of a darker, more (milk)chocolate shade of veg tanned goatskin
- Hidden studs for the collar tips to fasten them when riding
- Better finish for the hardware. Sorry, but YKK's aged brass never looks
convincing imo. Black oxide, dull nickel or bare brass would look better.
- Heavy duty, poly cored and cotton wrapped thread in various colours
(brown, black, olive drab)
- Houndstooth lining in additional colours
- Super precise stitching for all seams

Thanks for the comments Jan. I will be offering a dark brown version. The collar snaps were covered in the previous post (I may add a throatlatch at some future time). The zippers are not YKK, they are all supplied by Ideal fastner company. Their antique brass looks very nice IMO. The thread is a heavy gauge (225/2) and I'm quite happy about the stitching precision as compared to the competition. There is another color of houndstooth lining I'm considering for the darker leather version, its dark brown and medium brown and it has a finer weave. I'll post a pic soon.
 

JanSolo

Practically Family
Messages
879
Location
Ever so sunny Westphalia, Germany
I will be offering a dark brown version. The collar snaps were covered in the previous post (I may add a throatlatch at some future time). The zippers are not YKK, they are all supplied by Ideal fastner company. Their antique brass looks very nice IMO. The thread is a heavy gauge (225/2) and I'm quite happy about the stitching precision as compared to the competition. There is another color of houndstooth lining I'm considering for the darker leather version, its dark brown and medium brown and it has a finer weave.

That sounds very promising. Can't wait to see some more pictures. This jacket deserves a good website with more close-ups that show all options available. Congrats and keep us informed. I am looking foward to seeing the full production jacket.

Jan
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Pic of the alternate houdstooth pattern

Here is a pic of the darker houndstooth (next to the current one) that I will use for the darker brown version. Let me know what you think.

 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Thanks SJ for the encouraging comments and glad you like it.

Jan, glad you like the new houndstooth. The jacket is already in production so you don't have to wait ;)
 

Bonneville

One of the Regulars
Messages
173
Location
Canada
Pegasus jackets said:
The tannery told me it was straight veg tanned goatskin. The surface coat doesn't feel very thick at all compared to some goatskins I've handled which feel "plasticy". It has a supple and slightly waxy hand to it. That to me means there's some decent amount of oils in the leather.

.

I like leather that has that slightly waxy feel. It feels like what I think leather should feel like to the touch instead of completely dry/smooth.
Throat latch sounds good, don't know how that would keep the flaps down though. I like the the twin bucklets.
Jan's thread advice sounds good. I look forward to seeing your dk brown one at some future date.
 

eClairvaux

One of the Regulars
Messages
259
Location
Monaco di Baviera
I am usually not crazy about this style of MC jacket, but yours is actually shaking my reservations!

I like a a lot of things about it, but they have been mentioned by others earlier.

Just two things, one of them minor, bother me:
- I don't like it when the waist straps curl up (which is inevitable) and stick out like they do on your jacket. If you would find a way to tuck those ends away and prevent this from happening, that would be ideal in my eyes. (minor issue)
- I can't get myself to like neither the tartans nor the houndstooth you have chosen. I do have MC leather jackets with a tartan lining, but don't like it all with this kind of jacket. Don't get me started on the houndstooth, I find that pattern even more irritating. I much prefer the quilted lining that e.g. Lewis Leathers is using. If you could find that in a very dark olive or purple, I think that would work a whole lot better - for my taste.

Anyhow, good luck with Pegasus! If you manage to get enough attention for your brand it should be easy to sell such a great looking jacket.
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Thanks again gentlemen for the precious comments.

Bonneville said:
Throat latch sounds good, don't know how that would keep the flaps down though.

It would work when you're fully zipped with the collar folded up and throat-latch buttoned for maximum warmth. This would keep the collar from flapping and that's when it usually does. Otherwise you're right.

kyboots said:
...it needs something for the collar to hold it down and a darker brown color

I think the most appropriate addition would be a throat latch for when the jacket is fully zipped up etc. Snaps or buttons just wouldn't look right IMO on this jacket. Its not a Perfecto jacket after all. Concerning the darker color, a seal brown version will be available soon. I'll post pics here as a sneak preview ;)

eClairvaux said:
Just two things, one of them minor, bother me:
- I don't like it when the waist straps curl up (which is inevitable) and stick out like they do on your jacket. If you would find a way to tuck those ends away and prevent this from happening, that would be ideal in my eyes. (minor issue)
- I can't get myself to like neither the tartans nor the houndstooth you have chosen. I do have MC leather jackets with a tartan lining, but don't like it all with this kind of jacket. Don't get me started on the houndstooth, I find that pattern even more irritating. I much prefer the quilted lining that e.g. Lewis Leathers is using. If you could find that in a very dark olive or purple, I think that would work a whole lot better - for my taste.

I think the waist straps curling is inevitable. I don't see any other solution than to lengthen them significantly or to adding a belt loop on each strap, both of wich would look odd IMO. Quilted linings are usually made using cheaper sythetic materials (polyester, nylon, etc.) and a filler. IMO this is much less desirable and "lower end" than natural materials such as 100% wool or cotton. The grade of wool and cotton which I'm using is quite premium and has to be touched / felt to be appreciated. I can appreciate if you don't like the patterns, I guess its a matter of personal taste but these are correct for the period and give it a more vintage feel.
 

Bonneville

One of the Regulars
Messages
173
Location
Canada
Pegasus jackets said:
Thanks again gentlemen for the precious comments.



It would work when you're fully zipped with the collar folded up and throat-latch buttoned for maximum warmth. This would keep the collar from flapping and that's when it usually does. Otherwise you're right.
.
I thinking the lapel flapping would be an issue when the collar is not up as well, like I said not sure how the throat latch would help while collar is down.



I think the waist straps curling is inevitable. I don't see any other solution than to lengthen them significantly or to adding a belt loop on each strap, both of wich would look odd IMO. .

Perhaps the curling can be tamed using heavier weight leather for the straps as opposed to what is being used at present; ... heavier weight with a more/different stitching arrangement might help. I too do not like curled up straps. Otherwise, great jacket!
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Hi GriffDeLaGriff,

I think that loops would make the back look too busy and interfere with the clean lines. Also, on other jackets I've seen the loops make the jacket look cheap (purely my personal opinion). I'll definitely consider the velcro idea.....NOT ;)
 

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