This has become the central preoccupation in my life. About ten years ago, I recommended my buddy pick up one of these. The largest size was too small on me. We lost touch and he called me about six months ago and mentioned that he still loves the jacket. I live in Manhattan, NYC and made the rounds to the usual and customary places. The names don't warrant mentioning as I was early in the learning curve. Then I discovered that Schott was a reputable maker and carried a ton of styles. Union made and based in Jersey. Good deal. I live around the corner's from Dave's an authorized seller and went to try on a 141. Too short and it fit funny. I heard they made a long but didn't want to chance ordering one. I found a place on Lexington Avenue that carried the 660 and I was unimpressed with the leather. I bounced around looking for other makers and I was still pedestrian in my pursuits so I found a few Belstaff's. Too short and run way small (even the "pure motorcycle" line runs small). A handful of motorcycle gear makers; too short, no style to me, looked cheaply made. I read a ton of stuff and learned that Fox Creek makes respectable riding gear but I'm not a rider and am not crazy about big bi-swings or laces or pronounced kidney panels. I began to get pissed off but as fate would have it, I had to come out to Los Angeles on business/pleasure in mid-January. If there was ever a land of cafe racers this is it and I thought I'd find one here. It's now mid-March and I'm still in the LA area, Santa Monica but have given up hope of finding anything in a brick and mortar. My tale of woe in the City of Angels:
I went to Deus Ex Machina on Venice Blvd. and they led me to a handful of places whose names I can now barely remember and many of whom I've forgotten. Glory, Chuck's Vintage, Roland Sands (I drove forty minutes to their store only to find the 3xl's were too short and most of their jackets were taken to a show in Indianopolis), a couple of places that stocked Dainese and similar and every place I saw that looked like it might carry leather shoeslaces or better. No luck. I even went to some places I'd hang my head in ignominy for having entered- the Levi's Store, JCrew's Stockton, Superdry, True Religion, Diesel and more. The xxl's and even 3xl's were small and just felt like a bummer.
I even got to try on a Schott 141 long in a size 48 and 50 at a store on the Venice Boardwalk. The armhole is too low and digs into my bicep. I'm a short 6'4", weigh around 240, with about 15 pounds on me that I could live without. I've learned that my chest actually measures a shade over 48" so one would think a 48l would fit. It never does. The only thing I have come to realize is that my arms are long and pretty thick and for whatever reason the armhole to the end of seam measurement always feels too short so I end up with jackets with extra room in the chest and although the armhole sits low, I deal.
I finally ended up at a RRL store on Melrose where I saw their repro. I liked the looks of it and asked if they had an xxl. The XL was said to be big but it was too tight. It sported had a higher armhole than any other jacket I tried so I had momentary pause for hope. For whatever reason, they did not make that jacket in a xxl. It was more than I wanted to spend but my will was bending. The guy at the store wanted to help and told me about The Real McCoys and said I should try Self-Edge. I don't have the budget for Real McCoys and laughably, at some point, I even got sent to Chrome Hearts- for around 5k they might make me a jacket although they have no idea how long it will take and admit they are never delivered in a timely fashion. Tacky, cheesy and strangely cool for some people but not me. Way out of my budget. Then got sent to a place called Silver Threads in Malibu. They sell jewelry but a guy there said he'd make me a jacket on the side. Not happening.
The Self-Edge guys were very, very nice and said they would ask the Himel Brother's guy if he felt like making a jacket. Apparently, he was back in Canada and might be up to make a jacket. They didn't know how much it would cost. I balked and feared it would be out of budget and they didn't have a racer to look at in the store. I went to Hollywood Trading Company or something like that and they are very nice but ask such high prices I wanted to take a swing at them. A Fidelity racer that looked shiny and just fit me awfully they were trying to get $750 for and I just said no. I picked up a size 50 Brooks on ebay for $112 and got it shipped here to Cali. I can wear it but the armhole is low and it is not the sanctum sanctorum of Cafe Racers I so desperately seek. I've been to at least 30-40 places out here. Then I ended up here on this forum and have been lurking some.
Now I've been able to narrow it down to the following- Aero, Alexander's, Good Wear (if I can stomach a 15 month wait), Lewis Leathers, Diamond Dave, Lost Worlds (representing NYC) and forgive me if I've forgotten any of the worthy players. If it's of interest to anyone, Stronghold on Abbott Kinney Blvd. will be carrying Lewis Leathers in the coming months. They said two months ago that it would be about two months and I just called them and they said it's going to be about two months. I do believe at some point they will carry Lewis Leathers for all those interested. They're a bit impressed with themselves over there but after seeing what some places ask for crap, I can deal with the passionate indifference of those employed at Stronghold.
In any case, I'm dying to pull the trigger on a jacket although I'm still not clear on what materials are best i.e. horsehide vs. steerhide. I really have come to love the Buco J-100 but I am worried about getting a jacket that's long enough. Being tall, I don't want a jacket that's not below my belt. They just don't look good to my eyes. I am also worried about getting a jacket that's going to fit me funny around the armhole. The one custom leather jacket (a blazer- I'm from NYC, reared in the Bronx and NJ so forgive me) I got made I recall the tailor telling me that he had to recut the armhole three times. I suppose I'm thicker in build than wide so maybe that makes a difference as well as the arm length.
Thus far, I sent Alexander Leathers an email about a week ago and have not heard back. Good Wear is a bit pricey for me and I can't wait a year. I'm also hesitant to do business across the pond for fear of having to shell out a $100 to ship back a jacket that might not fit.
This is not a manifesto; this is a plea to any and all that would care to aid and abet my search. I am willing to take suggestion and direction and if anyone knows a brick and mortar in NY or LA that's worth a visit, do let me know although I'm not holding my breath given the niche here and the size I'm looking for.
Thank you in advance for reading this and I look forward to any input.
Dave
I went to Deus Ex Machina on Venice Blvd. and they led me to a handful of places whose names I can now barely remember and many of whom I've forgotten. Glory, Chuck's Vintage, Roland Sands (I drove forty minutes to their store only to find the 3xl's were too short and most of their jackets were taken to a show in Indianopolis), a couple of places that stocked Dainese and similar and every place I saw that looked like it might carry leather shoeslaces or better. No luck. I even went to some places I'd hang my head in ignominy for having entered- the Levi's Store, JCrew's Stockton, Superdry, True Religion, Diesel and more. The xxl's and even 3xl's were small and just felt like a bummer.
I even got to try on a Schott 141 long in a size 48 and 50 at a store on the Venice Boardwalk. The armhole is too low and digs into my bicep. I'm a short 6'4", weigh around 240, with about 15 pounds on me that I could live without. I've learned that my chest actually measures a shade over 48" so one would think a 48l would fit. It never does. The only thing I have come to realize is that my arms are long and pretty thick and for whatever reason the armhole to the end of seam measurement always feels too short so I end up with jackets with extra room in the chest and although the armhole sits low, I deal.
I finally ended up at a RRL store on Melrose where I saw their repro. I liked the looks of it and asked if they had an xxl. The XL was said to be big but it was too tight. It sported had a higher armhole than any other jacket I tried so I had momentary pause for hope. For whatever reason, they did not make that jacket in a xxl. It was more than I wanted to spend but my will was bending. The guy at the store wanted to help and told me about The Real McCoys and said I should try Self-Edge. I don't have the budget for Real McCoys and laughably, at some point, I even got sent to Chrome Hearts- for around 5k they might make me a jacket although they have no idea how long it will take and admit they are never delivered in a timely fashion. Tacky, cheesy and strangely cool for some people but not me. Way out of my budget. Then got sent to a place called Silver Threads in Malibu. They sell jewelry but a guy there said he'd make me a jacket on the side. Not happening.
The Self-Edge guys were very, very nice and said they would ask the Himel Brother's guy if he felt like making a jacket. Apparently, he was back in Canada and might be up to make a jacket. They didn't know how much it would cost. I balked and feared it would be out of budget and they didn't have a racer to look at in the store. I went to Hollywood Trading Company or something like that and they are very nice but ask such high prices I wanted to take a swing at them. A Fidelity racer that looked shiny and just fit me awfully they were trying to get $750 for and I just said no. I picked up a size 50 Brooks on ebay for $112 and got it shipped here to Cali. I can wear it but the armhole is low and it is not the sanctum sanctorum of Cafe Racers I so desperately seek. I've been to at least 30-40 places out here. Then I ended up here on this forum and have been lurking some.
Now I've been able to narrow it down to the following- Aero, Alexander's, Good Wear (if I can stomach a 15 month wait), Lewis Leathers, Diamond Dave, Lost Worlds (representing NYC) and forgive me if I've forgotten any of the worthy players. If it's of interest to anyone, Stronghold on Abbott Kinney Blvd. will be carrying Lewis Leathers in the coming months. They said two months ago that it would be about two months and I just called them and they said it's going to be about two months. I do believe at some point they will carry Lewis Leathers for all those interested. They're a bit impressed with themselves over there but after seeing what some places ask for crap, I can deal with the passionate indifference of those employed at Stronghold.
In any case, I'm dying to pull the trigger on a jacket although I'm still not clear on what materials are best i.e. horsehide vs. steerhide. I really have come to love the Buco J-100 but I am worried about getting a jacket that's long enough. Being tall, I don't want a jacket that's not below my belt. They just don't look good to my eyes. I am also worried about getting a jacket that's going to fit me funny around the armhole. The one custom leather jacket (a blazer- I'm from NYC, reared in the Bronx and NJ so forgive me) I got made I recall the tailor telling me that he had to recut the armhole three times. I suppose I'm thicker in build than wide so maybe that makes a difference as well as the arm length.
Thus far, I sent Alexander Leathers an email about a week ago and have not heard back. Good Wear is a bit pricey for me and I can't wait a year. I'm also hesitant to do business across the pond for fear of having to shell out a $100 to ship back a jacket that might not fit.
This is not a manifesto; this is a plea to any and all that would care to aid and abet my search. I am willing to take suggestion and direction and if anyone knows a brick and mortar in NY or LA that's worth a visit, do let me know although I'm not holding my breath given the niche here and the size I'm looking for.
Thank you in advance for reading this and I look forward to any input.
Dave
