On the hunt for good leather!

[MillersCrossing]

Hey guys,

First post here, thanks for having me. This seems like a fantastic forum with a nice mix of nationalities, I'm very glad I found it. I myself have a fascination for authentic and original designs from the 'good old days' and I love anything that is a classic design, made well and made to last.

I found this forum through google while researching leather jackets. I also found Aero Leathers in Scotland and quickly fell in love with their look and designs and obvious quality. I am dead keen on acquiring one, but I first need to narrow down a style. So far, I am leaning towards a 50s style Half Belt or a Half Belt Deluxe. As to hide, I may have to opt for steerhide to save costs as the exchange between my country and the UK is brutal indeed. Horsehide would indeed be awesome though...

Where I was hoping you fellas might assist me is with the sizing. I am 5' 10" but built like the proverbial brick outhouse. I have a 46 inch chest and a 36 inch waist. I also lift weights so my shoulders and arms are quite big. My problem is I often buy jackets in XL sizes only to find the arms are too long. So I am looking for an Aero style that will fit my build. I dont want a jacket that is too big either, as I will mostly wear it with just a t-shirt or polo underneath. My location has a sub-tropical climate (think Florida) so the jacket will not require an under-layer.

This jacket will be a major investment for me in terms of clothing but I am in my 40s and feel it is time for something really good. I then plan to wean out a lot of outerwear from my wardrobe that I'm not using and just stick to the basics.

Any input/thoughts/suggestions are most welcome!

Thanks
Mark

 

[majormajor]

Hi MC, and welcome.

If you email Aero, they will get back to you with their measurement requirements. They are more than happy to discuss issues such as tapering of jackets , length of sleeves etc.

 

[Rudie]

Go to a tailor and have your measurements taken, forward them to Aero together with pictures of you and state the desired fit. They'll take care of the rest.

 

[MillersCrossing]

Hey thanks, I've already been in contact with Amanda and we've chatted back and forth. I was just hoping to maybe find someone here who has the same build as me and learn from their mistakes before I take the plunge.

Hi MC, and welcome.

If you email Aero, they will get back to you with their measurement requirements. They are more than happy to discuss issues such as tapering of jackets , length of sleeves etc.

 

[MillersCrossing]

Thanks Rudie, good idea, I think I will get my wife to measure me up, down and sideways, I dont know any tailors hereabouts.

 

[Cooperson]

A very warm welcome. I think the 50's half belt would be a good choice for a bigger build - sleeve length and overall fit would be taken care of at the factory, no problem.

 

[Rudie]

Thanks Rudie, good idea, I think I will get my wife to measure me up, down and sideways, I dont know any tailors hereabouts.

You're welcome.

You will need measurements of chest, waist, hips, shoulder to shoulder, sleeve length, full sleeve length (C7 down to the wrist), biceps and forearm.

 

[ButteMT61]

Welcome MC - you seem to be one of many new "brick houses" joining up lately lol
Don't feel too bad - I didn't start buying good stuff until I was ~45. FInally got some of the kids out the door and had a little money for once. If you go custom - which it sounds like you should - all that will be accounted for, whether Aero, Good Wear, or LW (as some examples).
Good luck in the hunt - there's lots of info and pics and good folks here to help. It's addictive and the folks are fun around here.

Scott

 

[MillersCrossing]

Wow, OK, will do!

You're welcome.

You will need measurements of chest, waist, hips, shoulder to shoulder, sleeve length, full sleeve length (C7 down to the wrist), biceps and forearm.

 

[MillersCrossing]

Muchas gracias! I have learned a huge amount in two days already... as to choices I am now leaning towards the Half-Belt Deluxe in mid-weight HH. The problem is, every time I go back to the site, I see something else I like!

Welcome MC - you seem to be one of many new "brick houses" joining up lately lol
Don't feel too bad - I didn't start buying good stuff until I was ~45. FInally got some of the kids out the door and had a little money for once. If you go custom - which it sounds like you should - all that will be accounted for, whether Aero, Good Wear, or LW (as some examples).
Good luck in the hunt - there's lots of info and pics and good folks here to help. It's addictive and the folks are fun around here.

Scott

 

[Edward]

All very sound advice so far... and, as I am sure you have discovered, Amanda's encyclopaedic knowledge of the Aero design catalogue will serve you well. Are you set on a Fifties cut in particular? What I mean is do you specifically want a 1950s look, or are you open to earlier periods? I think with your ten inch drop from chest to waist you might find a Highwayman rather too boxy based on previous experience. I have a rather more modest six inch drop myself. I wear both a Highwayman and a Thirties Halfbelt. I can *just* get away with the latter myself, but you might well find it is ideal for you. Fifties halfbelt would be great too (I have a Bootlegger which I understand is based on the Fifties halfbelt pattern with a different front), but it might be worth your considering the slimmer, Thirties pattern given your figure. Aero can advise you directly, but you will see in their general website guidance that they advise choosing a model closest to what you want to begin with, rather than trying to radically alter a different basic design. I've never heard of Aero charging more for cutting a jacket to your measurements than for stock sizing, so I can't see this being a problem for you.

As to hide.... We're all big fans in these parts of Aero's heavy hides, especially the FQHH, but I've handled and owned quite a few of their hides, and really they are all great. I can from personal experience highly recommend both their goat and the European Steer. I have a motorcycle jacket (Perfecto style - soon to be sold, alas, as this pattern is even neater in the waist than a same-size Thirties Halfbelt!!) and a Highwayman in the latter, and an AN6552 and A2 in the former. If you want a brown jacket, I would jump on the goat, myself. If black, the Steer (goat is not available in black). The European Steer is a lovely hide. As thick as my FQHH jackets, but with a much softer hand. Has the feel of an original Fifties Lewis or similar British motorcycle jacket, but with a sense of durability (all the Lewises I have handled felt somewhat fragile to me, but having cut my leather teeth on eighties biking leathers, I do find I instinctively prize heft). FQHH I love in a close-fitting jacket, but with something looser than I want to have a bit of 'drape', the European Steer is ideal. The Highwayman sits exactly like the jacket in original late Fifties and early Sixties shots of Ton Up Boys and the likes in the jackets which inspired the Aero design. Of course, there's also the American Steer, which is a bit cheaper than the FQHH too. I've never handled that one, but am reliably informed that it is as heavy as (if not heavier than) the FQHH. Really depends what you want....

 

[Edward]

Muchas gracias! I have learned a huge amount in two days already... as to choices I am now leaning towards the Half-Belt Deluxe in mid-weight HH. The problem is, every time I go back to the site, I see something else I like!

I prognosticate that you will soon begin to refer to this as "My first Aero....". I well remember when that happened to me. I now have about seven, with a "want list" of at least as many more.....

 

[Worf]

As a member of the chest bigger than waist club, (54 inch chest" 44 inch waist) let me say welcome aboard. I know your fear and trepidation well. I've a Size 54 vintage Avirex HH A2 that fits so loose you stick a beach ball in the top of the jacket and on the other hand I've a Canadian hand made Mackinaw size 54 that's skin tight (pics coming when it cold enough). I'm convinced I live in a world where measurements are "relative" like morals. It's crazy. I wll say though you've come to the right place to ask your questions welcome and good luck.

Worf

 

[MillersCrossing]

I'm afraid all I know of 'cut' is what I have seen on the site. I am going purely on the basis of their images and what I can dig up here... but from what I can see, most dudes here are pretty thin! I guess I should get my wife to take a snap of me in my current leather and that might help.

I was initially attracted to the Highwayman, but then I started to explore a bit further and the Half-Belt really appealed to me as a 'classic' look. I'm afraid I'm not an aficionado of vintage jackets, so I'm really a newbie in that this will both be my first high end jacket and only the second leather jacket I've ever owned! So go easy, heh heh.

Thanks for the tips on hides. I dont have a particular prejudice one way or another, but I must admit the idea of horsehide appeals to me. I THINK the jacket I currently own is made of water buffalo. I say that because it is very thick leather, has a grain and its made in India. From what I understand a lot of Indian leather workers wont handle cow hide because the cow is considered a sacred animal there... so they often use water buffalo instead. But I have no way of verifying that.

All very sound advice so far... and, as I am sure you have discovered, Amanda's encyclopaedic knowledge of the Aero design catalogue will serve you well. Are you set on a Fifties cut in particular? What I mean is do you specifically want a 1950s look, or are you open to earlier periods? I think with your ten inch drop from chest to waist you might find a Highwayman rather too boxy based on previous experience. I have a rather more modest six inch drop myself. I wear both a Highwayman and a Thirties Halfbelt. I can *just* get away with the latter myself, but you might well find it is ideal for you. Fifties halfbelt would be great too (I have a Bootlegger which I understand is based on the Fifties halfbelt pattern with a different front), but it might be worth your considering the slimmer, Thirties pattern given your figure. Aero can advise you directly, but you will see in their general website guidance that they advise choosing a model closest to what you want to begin with, rather than trying to radically alter a different basic design. I've never heard of Aero charging more for cutting a jacket to your measurements than for stock sizing, so I can't see this being a problem for you.

As to hide.... We're all big fans in these parts of Aero's heavy hides, especially the FQHH, but I've handled and owned quite a few of their hides, and really they are all great. I can from personal experience highly recommend both their goat and the European Steer. I have a motorcycle jacket (Perfecto style - soon to be sold, alas, as this pattern is even neater in the waist than a same-size Thirties Halfbelt!!) and a Highwayman in the latter, and an AN6552 and A2 in the former. If you want a brown jacket, I would jump on the goat, myself. If black, the Steer (goat is not available in black). The European Steer is a lovely hide. As thick as my FQHH jackets, but with a much softer hand. Has the feel of an original Fifties Lewis or similar British motorcycle jacket, but with a sense of durability (all the Lewises I have handled felt somewhat fragile to me, but having cut my leather teeth on eighties biking leathers, I do find I instinctively prize heft). FQHH I love in a close-fitting jacket, but with something looser than I want to have a bit of 'drape', the European Steer is ideal. The Highwayman sits exactly like the jacket in original late Fifties and early Sixties shots of Ton Up Boys and the likes in the jackets which inspired the Aero design. Of course, there's also the American Steer, which is a bit cheaper than the FQHH too. I've never handled that one, but am reliably informed that it is as heavy as (if not heavier than) the FQHH. Really depends what you want....

 

[Rockin' Dog]

Hi there MC . I'm another of those brick outhouses and as a owner of an Aero long half belt I can probably has on some guidance. You will need to supply Amanda at Aero your inhaled chest size and exhaled size. mine is around 50 -51 and 47...and I was recommended to go for a size 48...which worked out perfectly in the end.
Amanda also recommended adding an extra inch to the standard arm length as I'm 6' 2" ...I didn't think it was necessary but she proved right... Especially when the horse hide wears in and creases around the elbow....you lose around an inch.
Aero will tell you what other measurements they will need then you just need to think about what type of lining? Zips? Leather colour....I went for cordovan which was a beautiful hide.

Good luck and keep us posted.
R'D

 

[MillersCrossing]

Hey Dog, thanks for the advices... here are some quick snaps of me in my current go-to jacket. Its not a bad jacket (for the price I paid) but the arm holes are weird in that when I raise my arms I get serious bunching on the shoulders and the sleeves ride right up, so the materials are good quality but the cut sucks ass. Pls excuse the pic quality my wife is the world's worst photographer, bless her heart.

 

[MillersCrossing]

Another update: After perusing the site again last night, with my wife as my wingman, we decided the Bootlegger had the best combo of features and savoir faire (old school cool) that make these jackets so appealing. So I am currently honing in on that one. Now just have to decide if I can swing horsehide over steerhide (a £60 premium) or perhaps goatskin would be appropriate? Not sure what the diffs in the price is for that... cordovan also appears to be leading the charge in colour choice.

Any suggestions as to lining? I don't need anything overly warm, and I've read several comments that a smooth lining for the arms is preferable to cotton...

 

[Rockin' Dog]

Any suggestions as to lining? I don't need anything overly warm, and I've read several comments that a smooth lining for the arms is preferable to cotton...

Hey MC...seeing that you are in South Africa and real cold weather is a rarity, you may wish to go down the route of the lighter lining options Aero can give you...that way you have more oppurtunities to wear it in action!
On my LHB I had drill cotton for the inner sleeves as its a tough, hard wearing fabric. I also had a smooth satin lining put over it to allow easier movement of the arms. The satin on its own may be less durable(?) some have found that to be the case...some not. Something to think about!
-R'D

 

[MillersCrossing]

Thanks dude, it is indeed warmer here but it can get pretty cold from time to time, depending on where you are. The other factor is I look infinitely cooler in a leather jacket than a safari jacket.

Hey MC...seeing that you are in South Africa and real cold weather is a rarity, you may wish to go down the route of the lighter lining options Aero can give you...that way you have more oppurtunities to wear it in action!
On my LHB I had drill cotton for the inner sleeves as its a tough, hard wearing fabric. I also had a smooth satin lining put over it to allow easier movement of the arms. The satin on its own may be less durable(?) some have found that to be the case...some not. Something to think about!
-R'D