Notions about fit

[Aloysius]

Thanks. so it's meant for a different body type.

No it’s meant for no body type lol. It’s just a bad fit, albeit not as actively broken as the Fine Creek/Fountainhead/etc dress-shaped jacket fit.

 

[Monitor]

I know this is not exactly a fit advice thread, but since the general topic is around fit... I thought I could maybe post in here with a question withh more experienced eyes for advice.

Tried out a cross-zip for the first time - a used Schott Perfecto (42 size 626VN) and was very underwhelmed with the fit. Just did not feel right and billowy around the waist area, tight around the shoulders. Chest was also a bit droopy. Coincidentally, this place was across a Schott store and I tried the same in a bunch of sizes, M, L & XL. I didn't even bother to take pics as the results are either the same as below or just plain worse.

Was hoping someone more experienced could tell me why the fit is so off and what measurements I should maybe pay attention to if I wanted to get a cross zip that fit better.

View attachment 610417

For reference, here's a couple of jackets I have where I'm very happy with the fit (both 42 size RMC J100, LW Ryder)
View attachment 610418 View attachment 610419

Try the flagship models @Aloysius recommended, the 618 or the 118 or the 613. The 626 doesn't even look good on Schott's product page.

This is what you want from Schott.
https://www.schottnyc.com/products/steerhide-perfecto.htm?color=1&catID=5

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Try the flagship models @Aloysius recommended, the 618 or the 118 or the 613. The 626 doesn't even look good on Schott's product page.

This is what you want from Schott.
https://www.schottnyc.com/products/steerhide-perfecto.htm?color=1&catID=5

Thanks, I'll give it another "shot" sometime this week

 

[omega1848]

I am in a similar "body type situation" as described above and fear that the 626(VN) would not fit my body well. The recommended 618 looks indeed more V-shaped, however I don't want to wear the jacket only during colder seasons, hence which of the Schott would have the V-shaped form like the 618 but no (!) padded lining (so, a simple lining like the 626(VN))? I got lost in the sea of Schott product offerings ;-)

 

[Aloysius]

I am in a similar "body type situation" as described above and fear that the 626(VN) would not fit my body well. The recommended 618 looks indeed more V-shaped, however I don't want to wear the jacket only during colder seasons, hence which of the Schott would have the V-shaped form like the 618 but no (!) padded lining (so, a simple lining like the 626(VN))? I got lost in the sea of Schott product offerings ;-)

There was guy from Texas on Styleforum who had Schott's repair department replace the winter lining with a cotton lining. That could work.

 

[Edward]

There was guy from Texas on Styleforum who had Schott's repair department replace the winter lining with a cotton lining. That could work.

Replacement is certainly an option.... though it's going to get into a level of spend I'd not want. I suppose it depends how much the wearer wants a Schott specifically, rather than buying a Perfecto style jacket for one of the other players that also make great ones. In the US, Vanson I know do some great looking jackets in that style, with the option of quilt or unquilted satin/rayon lining. Johnson would probably do whatever you want. This side of the pond, Aero do their take on that style across a couple of models, with drill cotton either as a default lining, or an option.

I imagine a lot will come down to cost variables if you don't care about the brand: in my local Schott stockist, they now charge more for an OTR 618 than do Aero for a made to measure jacket. Add a change of lining on top of that....

The used market might make it more viable, of course: I recently picked up a pretty much unworn 618 for a fair bit less than the average UK new price, but it did take a few months of hunting on eBay, some luck and a lot of patience. I'd rather have waited til I'd sold my old one first and more comfortably put the money into the new from it, but when you need a bigger size these don't turn up used so often. Must put up a lost about it when I find the time. The leather seems to have changed with the newer model, more of a matte finish, less shiny than the older one (both 618). Though that could be how it ages... we'll soon see. Only making this change because even with the weight shifted my original 46 just wears too tight. Great for he Joey Ramone look, but not practical. Seems to be Schott size these against the size of the jacket rather than size of the wearer.... I think a 48 would work as a snug fit on me in a 618 (I have half an eye out for a 118 in 46 if ever the right deal comes up), but the one I picked up now is a 50, which is hilarious. Never had anything size-labelled that big before, even when I was about seventy pounds bigger than I am now. It fits like I would expect a vintage 48 / modern 46 to: I might have room for a sweater in shoulder season, but it still looks good over just a t-shirt. And I can actually get at the handwarmer products when I'm wearing it. (Not that I use those on a jacket - only pocket I ever used on my other P was the breast pocket - but it's nice to know it's an option.) Only thing I think Schott still miss on this design if a decent inside pocket. There *is* that little fabric one stitched on, but it's too shallow for me to trust it for anything. Higher and deeper would be much better. I'd prefer a G1 style pocket ultimately, but a higher, deeper version of the existing one would be less of a design change for them...