Northwest Hats, Eugene, Ore.

[belfastboy]

Some 8 or 9 months ago I contacted Mike at Northwest Hats about a custom fedora. Due to life’s little intricacies (on my side, Mike was absolutely wonderful dealing with all my delays) I didn’t receive the hat until yesterday. But wow was it worth the wait!

This is navy blue, 5 3/4 crown, dimensional brim with yin-yang design ventilation holes. I LOVE it!

It is very, very stiff felt. I ordered it open crown and the felt barely gave even under copious steaming. I’m thinking it’s going to soften up over time but if it doesn’t that’s okay, too - this hat is dynamite just the way it is!

Cheers,
Nathan

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That is one great lid!

 

[johnnycanuck]

Are all his hats stiff? Is this a new thing? Or can you request how much stiffener he uses?
Johnny

 

[Tukwila]

Are all his hats stiff? Is this a new thing? Or can you request how much stiffener he uses?
Johnny

I have a pecan beaver hat that came open crown and it is softer and creases easily. I have another hat that I requested to ship with a nice teardrop crease and a healthy rake from front to back and it is stiffer, which I like so it holds the crease without fussing every time I wear the hat.

When I order my next hat from Mike I'll specifically talk to him about how maleable I'd like the felt to be. I'm sure Mike can make his customers happy with just about any request. He's never let me down, and often surpasses even what I envision in a custom lid.

 

[belfastboy]

I have heard from a custom hatter that the felts he is receiving from Winchester lately have been much stiffer than they used to be. He also sent a batch of Tonak felts back as they were both undersized and stiff as cardboard. I certainly hope this is not an indication of the new normal.

 

[Redfokker]

Quite a day at NW Hats with Mike. Fell in love with a couple of straws, maybe... He finished my Whippet clone in granite. I went with a burgundy color ribbon contrast which I'm quite happy with. A full 6" crown creased down to a 5 1/2 X 4 1/2 diamond rake. This granite is a horse of a different color, it changes from a deep gray to almost a green in different light. Just like the real rock.

With the discussions here about stiffness, I have to say, I'm OK with it. Mike says that he can wash out the stiffener from the Winchester felts and beat the felt down to a much softer finish when needed. By wearing, handling and age, the stiffness goes away naturally. This is why we talk about the soft clay like hand of vintage hats, age and the life of the hat. My first custom from him, the 1942 Rose Bowl hat is already showing signs of loosening (?) up. I'll just wear the hell out of them and they will come around.

I also picked up a couple of repair jobs to be detailed in the next post. All in all, we had a nice morning. My next project is coming up in the queue in a while. A longhair bunny in Navy!

 

[Redfokker]

I love my Lees of London blue "lords hat", but it just wouldn't let me snap the brim. We looked at the binding and determined it was sewn so the brim curled up all around (like a homburg), only not quite. More like a brim up hat than a homburg. I really wanted to wear it with a snap brim. So Mike took off the binding and re-flanged the hat. What to do with the edge....WHIP STITCH!! A really fine version of the stitching. I like how it just kisses the edge and gives it some interest. Again, I am overjoyed with the result. Lots of wear this fall. The brim finished out at a hair over 2 3/8"

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Quite a day at NW Hats with Mike. Fell in love with a couple of straws, maybe... He finished my Whippet clone in granite. I went with a burgundy color ribbon contrast which I'm quite happy with. A full 6" crown creased down to a 5 1/2 X 4 1/2 diamond rake. This granite is a horse of a different color, it changes from a deep gray to almost a green in different light. Just like the real rock. View attachment 128395 View attachment 128396 View attachment 128397 View attachment 128398 View attachment 128399

With the discussions here about stiffness, I have to say, I'm OK with it. Mike says that he can wash out the stiffener from the Winchester felts and beat the felt down to a much softer finish when needed. By wearing, handling and age, the stiffness goes away naturally. This is why we talk about the soft clay like hand of vintage hats, age and the life of the hat. My first custom from him, the 1942 Rose Bowl hat is already showing signs of loosening (?) up. I'll just wear the hell out of them and they will come around.

I also picked up a couple of repair jobs to be detailed in the next post. All in all, we had a nice morning. My next project is coming up in the queue in a while. A longhair bunny in Navy!

Congrats, Mike. That Whippet clone is striking.

As to the stiffness to his hats, I guess it was just not what I was expecting from a dress weight hat. It is so much stiffer than the VS, Gannon, and Phoenix Winchester beaver fur felt customs...an order of magnitude stiffer. I do like my NW and I’m keeping it, but I don’t see myself ordering another.


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[Tukwila]

Quite a day at NW Hats with Mike. Fell in love with a couple of straws, maybe... He finished my Whippet clone in granite. I went with a burgundy color ribbon contrast which I'm quite happy with. A full 6" crown creased down to a 5 1/2 X 4 1/2 diamond rake. This granite is a horse of a different color, it changes from a deep gray to almost a green in different light. Just like the real rock. View attachment 128395 View attachment 128396 View attachment 128397 View attachment 128398 View attachment 128399

With the discussions here about stiffness, I have to say, I'm OK with it. Mike says that he can wash out the stiffener from the Winchester felts and beat the felt down to a much softer finish when needed. By wearing, handling and age, the stiffness goes away naturally. This is why we talk about the soft clay like hand of vintage hats, age and the life of the hat. My first custom from him, the 1942 Rose Bowl hat is already showing signs of loosening (?) up. I'll just wear the hell out of them and they will come around.
NWH
I also picked up a couple of repair jobs to be detailed in the next post. All in all, we had a nice morning. My next project is coming up in the queue in a while. A longhair bunny in Navy!

Excellent NWH Whippet, Mike! Love the granite felt!

 

[steur]

I love my Lees of London blue "lords hat", but it just wouldn't let me snap the brim. We looked at the binding and determined it was sewn so the brim curled up all around (like a homburg), only not quite. More like a brim up hat than a homburg. I really wanted to wear it with a snap brim. So Mike took off the binding and re-flanged the hat. What to do with the edge....WHIP STITCH!! A really fine version of the stitching. I like how it just kisses the edge and gives it some interest. Again, I am overjoyed with the result. Lots of wear this fall. The brim finished out at a hair over 2 3/8"

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Good you have made it your own, Mike. It was certainly designed and executed to be worn brim up. This customizing works like a charm. Hurts every time I see it though: nothing like that great colour in my collection.

 

[Shaina]

Im new and I’m not sure if this is the appropriate spot to post this? I’m looking for information on the value of my 1930’s Mallory Fedora, before Stetson took over. And this site came up. I’d appreciate it if you could give me anymore information on the hat, if you can, aside from what can be found online. I’ve already exhausted that, I think, but if not I’ll take that info too.
I do have photos, if you’re interested in helping me out, I’d be happy to send them.
It is in need of some restoration but that is not what I’m looking for at this time.
Anything related to value and a more specific time frame would be great. Ive had offers for the Fedora but I’m not sure what a fair price is. I appreciate your time and look forward to hearing from someone.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

View attachment 128478 Im new and I’m not sure if this is the appropriate spot to post this? I’m looking for information on the value of my 1930’s Mallory Fedora, before Stetson took over. And this site came up. I’d appreciate it if you could give me anymore information on the hat, if you can, aside from what can be found online. I’ve already exhausted that, I think, but if not I’ll take that info too.
I do have photos, if you’re interested in helping me out, I’d be happy to send them.
It is in need of some restoration but that is not what I’m looking for at this time.
Anything related to value and a more specific time frame would be great. Ive had offers for the Fedora but I’m not sure what a fair price is. I appreciate your time and look forward to hearing from someone.

This particular thread is just for hats made by Northwest Hats.

Your Mallory is in rough condition, but the size is rare and will bring a premium. I recently purchased a pre-Stetson Mallory in 7 5/8 (same as yours) on eBay for $50. It’s worth whatever someone will pay, and that changes for all sorts of reasons. Perhaps someone with more expertise that me can give you better information, but I’d put it in the under $100 range if I was looking to buy.


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[Shaina]

Ok. Thanks and sorry about posting in the wrong spot. I’m still learning how to navigate this site.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Ok. Thanks and sorry about posting in the wrong spot. I’m still learning how to navigate this site.

No harm.

You could post the question and photos in the Ask a Question, Get An Answer thread or the High I’m New Here, Looking for Hat Information thread.

You could also do some research by checking out the dedicated Mallory thread:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/the-mallory-mile.41370/

Good luck.

 

[Nathaniel Finley]

Quite a day at NW Hats with Mike. Fell in love with a couple of straws, maybe... He finished my Whippet clone in granite. I went with a burgundy color ribbon contrast which I'm quite happy with. A full 6" crown creased down to a 5 1/2 X 4 1/2 diamond rake. This granite is a horse of a different color, it changes from a deep gray to almost a green in different light. Just like the real rock. View attachment 128395 View attachment 128396 View attachment 128397 View attachment 128398 View attachment 128399

With the discussions here about stiffness, I have to say, I'm OK with it. Mike says that he can wash out the stiffener from the Winchester felts and beat the felt down to a much softer finish when needed. By wearing, handling and age, the stiffness goes away naturally. This is why we talk about the soft clay like hand of vintage hats, age and the life of the hat. My first custom from him, the 1942 Rose Bowl hat is already showing signs of loosening (?) up. I'll just wear the hell out of them and they will come around.

I also picked up a couple of repair jobs to be detailed in the next post. All in all, we had a nice morning. My next project is coming up in the queue in a while. A longhair bunny in Navy!

Beautiful whippet Red! Mike really makes beautiful hats. I am not getting much wear out of mine simply because I'm afraid to work in it - too many grease mines around this truck. i have some vacarion in a few months though so I'll see if a couple weeks in SE Asia heat wont loosen that felt up bit!

You have quite a collection of Northwest Hats now. However do you choose which one to wear?

 

[Nathaniel Finley]

Great looking lid!

Thank you Bob!

 

[Nathaniel Finley]

I really like the style, Nathan. Nice touch with the ventilation design! What color is the crown ribbon? It's hard to tell on my monitor.

I believe this ribbon is what Mike calls the medium brown. It's got a hint of purple to it in my opinion .... don't ask me what shade or I'd say, "Joker purple."

I'm glad you like the vent work .... it's one of my favorite features.

All around I am very pleased with this hat. It's even riding in the truck with me even though it's not getting any wear...

 

[Nathaniel Finley]

Hey there Nathan,

Good to see you back on the Lounge. My recent Northwest was also incredibly stiff. I thought/think that Mike accidentally used a western weight hat body. None of my other Winchester beaver felt hats are anywhere near this stiff. Honestly, it’s as stiff as a new Stetson 6X western. Everything else is great but that felt? Not what I wanted or expected. I was looking for a dress weight hat so I’m back with other hatters.

Yours is a great hat that should give you years of service. I love the blue.

I admit the stiffness has bothered me more and more, but I favor Redfokker's opinion that the felt will loosen up over time. I'll travel in this fellow once my trucking days are through so for now I just take him out of the box once a week and brush him down.

I love the blue - it is exactly the color I wanted it to be and is perfectly contrasted by the yellow wind cord.

Which hatter do you reckon to try next?

 

[Nathaniel Finley]

Absolutely beautiful Nathan! I do love a navy felt. The stiffness will go away quickly, just fondle it a lot. My 1942 Rosebowl hat has come around nicely. I like your use of the thin ribbon and matching navy binding. Those vent holes are a hoot! So perfect for you!

Thanks for the kind words Red!

 

[Redfokker]

Beautiful whippet Red! Mike really makes beautiful hats. I am not getting much wear out of mine simply because I'm afraid to work in it - too many grease mines around this truck. i have some vacarion in a few months though so I'll see if a couple weeks in SE Asia heat wont loosen that felt up bit!

You have quite a collection of Northwest Hats now. However do you choose which one to wear?

Thanks Nathan. I do try to keep each of my NW Hats in the rotation. A couple, my Olcott and the Bone Lord's Hat are more for special occasions though.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I admit the stiffness has bothered me more and more, but I favor Redfokker's opinion that the felt will loosen up over time. I'll travel in this fellow once my trucking days are through so for now I just take him out of the box once a week and brush him down.

I love the blue - it is exactly the color I wanted it to be and is perfectly contrasted by the yellow wind cord.

Which hatter do you reckon to try next?

I’m not interested in commissioning another hat from Northwest. I don’t think we are a good match.