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Norshor Leather

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
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4,338
Location
Cleveland, OH
Messages
11,164
Location
SoCal
It is a remake of this old film jacket:
6D4779E6-F754-44F3-9B0C-51B9CDD39D86.jpeg
 

fishmeok

Vendor
Messages
759
Location
minneapolis
MAN I wish I had that last two pics above when I was working on that thing years ago. I only had the first pic and was guestimating what the right side looked like. Now I can see it has 2 small matching pockets in addition to the D pocket and it has the striped '30's knits. Pretty darn cool.
 

Garrett

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,782
Its a great jacket, Mark. Still trying to break it in - that horsehide is stiff stuff!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
Norshor Tweedy Jacket.

I tried to take some photos this early morning but the shadows got in the way. Will try again when I get home tonight with the longer daylight and the west sun should work out better.
IMG_4971.JPG


This is the Tweedy jacket from Mark@Norshor. I've been checking out his jacket photos for a while now. But someone always beats me to the few jackets on his sale page. So when I saw he was running a promo on the tweedy last year I pulled the trigger.

IMG_4946.jpg

IMG_4948.jpg


It is unlined.

My first unlined jacket. The skin on skin feeling on the forearm still feels a bit strange to me. But the original jacket which this was based on was unlined. So I am getting the whole 1930s experience almost a hundred years later.

This was the photo that got me interested in Norshor:
IMG_1059.JPG


If anyone knows more about the reason behind the unlined leather jackets please chime in. My best guess is that leather jackets were worn only as a outer shell with layers underneath, different than the way modern jackets are really all in one (mid layer + shell). I came to this thought after seeing this pic posted by TMitchell in another thread.
"...State chest measure taken over vest..."
Vintage Sizing.jpg


Back to the Tweedy. I chose horsehide over goat. Not that it is better or worse. But I was still a horsehide snob at the time I ordered this jacket. This horsehide is about 3oz thick (1.2mm), from Victoria SRL. It is not exactly same as Aero's vicenza. I think every maker orders their top coat treatment just slightly different than the others. The Norshor version looks like it would fade and "teacore". I've only worn this jacket a few times and grains are already starting to pop and creases are setting in. I did use a tablespoon of mink oil to speed up the process.

Unlined jackets makes it very easy to see the quality of the leather. Italian (Victoria SRL) horsehide is very good.
IMG_4951.JPG


About the pattern. This jacket feels like an A1 flight jacket with action back. Comfort fit, not slim fit. The action back pleats are quite deep, so this 22" P2P wears like a 23" P2P in terms of comfort and mobility. Ancient wisdom. There are no elastic holding the pleats together, and so far they seem to always pop back into shape.

This jacket also has the curved sleeves. So the back of the hand will measure about an inch longer than the front of the hand. Fit pics tonight will show this better. The back length measures short (22" ish) but in reality the jackets fits longer. Again fit pic will show this better. Very interesting pattern. Here is the measurements:

Norshor Tweedy Measurements.jpg


The most interesting part for me, is the belt design at the back. It is skinnier than the half belt jackets I am accustom to. Until I saw a pic of the LVC Skyfall jacket, which is similar.

The back belt is also the best place to showcase Mark's craftsmanship. Comparable to Freewheelers vest.
IMG_4919.JPG


As a side note, I looked into stitching threads. And found that poly blend threads weren't available until after the war. So it kinda makes sense to me now why the pre-war jackets were sewn with redundant top stitching, triple stitched seams, french or flat fell. Cotton threads decay over time, plastic don't. Triple stitched seams just feels more premium. I wish all seams on all high end heritage jackets were triple stitched. But sadly, no. The triple stitch jobs are only used in small areas and not the whole jacket.

For this Norshor Tweedy, the triple stitching can be found on the welt pockets and back belt of this tweedy jacket. The rest of the seams are just double stitched, blind straight and one top stitch only, not two. And single blind stitch under the sleeve, no triple french seam under the sleeves.

Overall I am pleased with my new Tweedy. It does not feel as rugged as a CXL Aero, nor does it feel as refined as a pony Shinki Field Leather. It is a little bit of both. Most importantly it allowed me to take a peek into what jackets were like hundred years ago. Very interesting pattern.
 
Messages
17,506
Location
Chicago
Norshor Tweedy Jacket.

I tried to take some photos this early morning but the shadows got in the way. Will try again when I get home tonight with the longer daylight and the west sun should work out better.
View attachment 431559

This is the Tweedy jacket from Mark@Norshor. I've been checking out his jacket photos for a while now. But someone always beats me to the few jackets on his sale page. So when I saw he was running a promo on the tweedy last year I pulled the trigger.

View attachment 431561
View attachment 431562

It is unlined.

My first unlined jacket. The skin on skin feeling on the forearm still feels a bit strange to me. But the original jacket which this was based on was unlined. So I am getting the whole 1930s experience almost a hundred years later.

This was the photo that got me interested in Norshor:
View attachment 431564

If anyone knows more about the reason behind the unlined leather jackets please chime in. My best guess is that leather jackets were worn only as a outer shell with layers underneath, different than the way modern jackets are really all in one (mid layer + shell). I came to this thought after seeing this pic posted by TMitchell in another thread.
"...State chest measure taken over vest..."
View attachment 431565

Back to the Tweedy. I chose horsehide over goat. Not that it is better or worse. But I was still a horsehide snob at the time I ordered this jacket. This horsehide is about 3oz thick (1.2mm), from Victoria SRL. It is not exactly same as Aero's vicenza. I think every maker orders their top coat treatment just slightly different than the others. The Norshor version looks like it would fade and "teacore". I've only worn this jacket a few times and grains are already starting to pop and creases are setting in. I did use a tablespoon of mink oil to speed up the process.

Unlined jackets makes it very easy to see the quality of the leather. Italian (Victoria SRL) horsehide is very good.
View attachment 431567

About the pattern. This jacket feels like an A1 flight jacket with action back. Comfort fit, not slim fit. The action back pleats are quite deep, so this 22" P2P wears like a 23" P2P in terms of comfort and mobility. Ancient wisdom. There are no elastic holding the pleats together, and so far they seem to always pop back into shape.

This jacket also has the curved sleeves. So the back of the hand will measure about an inch longer than the front of the hand. Fit pics tonight will show this better. The back length measures short (22" ish) but in reality the jackets fits longer. Again fit pic will show this better. Very interesting pattern. Here is the measurements:

View attachment 431579

The most interesting part for me, is the belt design at the back. It is skinnier than the half belt jackets I am accustom to. Until I saw a pic of the LVC Skyfall jacket, which is similar.

The back belt is also the best place to showcase Mark's craftsmanship. Comparable to Freewheelers vest.
View attachment 431581

As a side note, I looked into stitching threads. And found that poly blend threads weren't available until after the war. So it kinda makes sense to me now why the pre-war jackets were sewn with redundant top stitching, triple stitched seams, french or flat fell. Cotton threads decay over time, plastic don't. Triple stitched seams just feels more premium. I wish all seams on all high end heritage jackets were triple stitched. But sadly, no. The triple stitch jobs are only used in small areas and not the whole jacket.

For this Norshor Tweedy, the triple stitching can be found on the welt pockets and back belt of this tweedy jacket. The rest of the seams are just double stitched, blind straight and one top stitch only, not two. And single blind stitch under the sleeve, no triple french seam under the sleeves.

Overall I am pleased with my new Tweedy. It does not feel as rugged as a CXL Aero, nor does it feel as refined as a pony Shinki Field Leather. It is a little bit of both. Most importantly it allowed me to take a peek into what jackets were like hundred years ago. Very interesting pattern.
Super cool! I don't recall seeing any true vintage pieces sold unlined other than M/C gear. I associate that more with motorcycle shirts (like the early Cal's). Was the tweedy based on an actual jacket or is this just an interpretation? Unfortunately my experience with unlined jackets has never been very good. Impossible to wear with long sleeve shirts and I really don't like the feeling of the suede or finished side against my skin. I really like the style of this jacket but the lack of a liner has me confused....
 

SimonR

One of the Regulars
Messages
261
Location
Chesterfield UK
Super cool! I don't recall seeing any true vintage pieces sold unlined other than M/C gear. I associate that more with motorcycle shirts (like the early Cal's). Was the tweedy based on an actual jacket or is this just an interpretation? Unfortunately my experience with unlined jackets has never been very good. Impossible to wear with long sleeve shirts and I really don't like the feeling of the suede or finished side against my skin. I really like the style of this jacket but the lack of a liner has me confused....
Looking on his site it can be ordered with liner
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
Super cool! I don't recall seeing any true vintage pieces sold unlined other than M/C gear. I associate that more with motorcycle shirts (like the early Cal's). Was the tweedy based on an actual jacket or is this just an interpretation? Unfortunately my experience with unlined jackets has never been very good. Impossible to wear with long sleeve shirts and I really don't like the feeling of the suede or finished side against my skin. I really like the style of this jacket but the lack of a liner has me confused....
Yeah the skin on skin sensation I am still trying to get use to. I would suggest at least line the sleeves after a week with the jacket, just easier for daily life. I remember Marc mentioned this too in the trucker thread.
Hughie Tweedy sold me the jacket. Or the above pic of him wearing his. I think the original jacket belonged to Mark's wife's grandfather. The story sold me the jacket. Haha.

Image2.jpg

Image1.jpg
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,709
Tweedy fit photo

IMG_4989.JPG
IMG_5014.JPG
IMG_5019.JPG
IMG_5034.JPG
IMG_5039.JPG


The sleeve is shorter in the front because of the curve sleeve. And the back is only 22.5" long. But the back panel is cut further towards the back of the shoulder so it hangs longer on the back if that makes any sense (see side photo). This also makes the collar a heart shaped when flatten on the ground. Very different than how later jackets were cut. Very interesting.
 
Messages
17,506
Location
Chicago
Tweedy fit photo

View attachment 431657 View attachment 431658 View attachment 431659 View attachment 431660 View attachment 431661

The sleeve is shorter in the front because of the curve sleeve. And the back is only 22.5" long. But the back panel is cut further towards the back of the shoulder so it hangs longer on the back if that makes any sense (see side photo). This also makes the collar a heart shaped when flatten on the ground. Very different than how later jackets were cut. Very interesting.
I like it! It does remind me of the Levi’s skyfall jacket in a way, but more Olde Tyme.
 

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