<<< noobie question >>>

[Brandrea33]

Good morning all, I’m Brian and new here.

I’ve been researching my first “quality” leather jacket and I’ve narrowed it down to the Himel Bros Imperial.

I’m sort of stuck on the leather I’d like to use and wondered if some of you more experience could help me decide.

This will be my one and done jacket, so although I’d love to go dark brown, I think black is the safer choice for me. That said, the decision for me is between black oil HH or black pigment HH.

I’m really curious to know what the main difference is in terms of how they wear/feel as I don’t seem to see much that differentiates the two.

Which would you be more inclined to go with?

Thank you kindly,

Brian

 

[Carlos840]

Good morning all, I’m Brian and new here.

I’ve been researching my first “quality” leather jacket and I’ve narrowed it down to the Himel Bros Imperial.

I’m sort of stuck on the leather I’d like to use and wondered if some of you more experience could help me decide.

This will be my one and done jacket, so although I’d love to go dark brown, I think black is the safer choice for me. That said, the decision for me is between black oil HH or black pigment HH.

I’m really curious to know what the main difference is in terms of how they wear/feel as I don’t seem to see much that differentiates the two.

Which would you be more inclined to go with?

Thank you kindly,

Brian

Hi Brian, welcome.

There will be very little difference in term of how they wear/feel, they are basically the same hides.
The difference is in the way they are finished.
The black oil HH will be black all the way through, meaning that the top coat is black, and the hide is drum dyed black throughout. On such a hide scratches will be hard to see, but it won't show much wear as it ages.

Black pigment HH is what is sometimes called "teacore", the hide is drum dyed brown before being top coated with black pigment (basically brown leather painted black). As you wear the jacket the top coat will wear off in areas that get rubbed repeatedly, showing the brown hide beneath it.
If you make a scratch on the jacket it will come out brown.

It really depends if you want a jacket to stay black all it's life, or if you want more character/contrast to appear as you wear the jacket.

There is no right or wrong, better or worst, it's a purely a cosmetic/design choice.
I have both, i enjoy both, i do like the evolution and character building you get from pigment, but there is also a place for the clean black look of an oil finish.

Really, you need both!

Edit: good examples of what a worn black pigment jacket looks like in this thread, post #10:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...-look-like-when-distressed-and-worn-in.97428/

 

[Brandrea33]

Hi Brian, welcome.

There will be very little difference in term of how they wear/feel, they are basically the same hides.
The difference is in the way they are finished.
The black oil HH will be black all the way through, meaning that the top coat is black, and the hide is drum dyed black throughout. On such a hide scratches will be hard to see, but it won't show much wear as it ages.

Black pigment HH is what is sometimes called "teacore", the hide is drum dyed brown before being top coated with black pigment (basically brown leather painted black). As you wear the jacket the top coat will wear off in areas that get rubbed repeatedly, showing the brown hide beneath it.
If you make a scratch on the jacket it will come out brown.

It really depends if you want a jacket to stay black all it's life, or if you want more character/contrast to appear as you wear the jacket.

There is no right or wrong, better or worst, it's a purely a cosmetic/design choice.
I have both, i enjoy both, i do like the evolution and character building you get from pigment, but there is also a place for the clean black look of an oil finish.

Really, you need both!

Thanks very much Carlos, I appreciate the reply and explanation on the teacore effect.

I read somewhere that the pigment version feels a bit more “broken in” right out of the box ... is that accurate?

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks very much Carlos, I appreciate the reply and explanation on the teacore effect.

I read somewhere that the pigment version feels a bit more “broken in” right out of the box ... is that accurate?

Himel doesn't really do thick leather, i have 5 or 6 Shinki jackets and they didn't really need any break in compared to something like a Vanson comp weight or a Lost Worlds.
I don't think ease of break in should come into play for that decision, if there is a difference it will honestly be negligible.

The real question is do you want a jacket that stays a clean black whatever happens to it, or do you want a jacket that will show you have had it for years and have lived in it.

 

[Brandrea33]

Himel doesn't really do thick leather, i have 5 or 6 Shinki jackets and they didn't really need any break in compared to something like a Vanson comp weight or a Lost Worlds.
I don't think ease of break in should come into play for that decision, if there is a difference it will honestly be negligible.

The real question is do you want a jacket that stays a clean black whatever happens to it, or do you want a jacket that will show you have had it for years and have lived in it.

I’ve got it ... many thanks Carlos!

 

[Carlos840]

I’ve got it ... many thanks Carlos!

You're welcome.

This is my Chevalier in Dark brown pigment after a couple weeks of wear.
Its thin enough that you really never feel like you have to break it in, it felt like a glove from day 1:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-chevalier-bis.93446/

 

[Brandrea33]

You're welcome.

This is my Chevalier in Dark brown pigment after a couple weeks of wear.
Its thin enough that you really never feel like you have to break it in, it felt like a glove from day 1:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-chevalier-bis.93446/

Wow! That looks amazing on you. I really do appreciate the helpful reply. I was quite worried about breaking in the jacket after all if read about Horsehide. You’ve helped to put my mind at ease.

 

[Brandrea33]

I just confirmed my order with Himel Bros. I decided on the black oil tanned finish.

Dealing with Himel Bros was super easy and Parker was great to deal with. I submitted my measurements and photos just now!

When I started my search it was important to me to find a good quality jacket first and foremost. If I could also support the local economy that would be a huge bonus ... I had no idea of all the different jacket makers out there, but I feel fortunate to have stumbled on this forum and to have found Himel Bros, located just an hour from me.

I’ll post pictures once received. They estimate 8 weeks(ish).

Brian

 

[Will Zach]

^^
That is an excellent choice for the first quality jacket. You're ahead of the game with Himel.

 

[Brandrea33]

^^
That is an excellent choice for the first quality jacket. You're ahead of the game with Himel.

Thank you very much. Admittedly I no nothing and it was a bit daunting at first , but after lurker here for some time and reading tons of information I feel good about my choice.

Brian

 

[jonesy86]

Man, that's no noobie move! Can't wait to see pics, and read a review.

 

[Brandrea33]

Man, that's no noobie move! Can't wait to see pics, and read a review.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

That's going to be an amazing jacket. Definitely post pics when you get it.

 

[Brandrea33]

That's going to be an amazing jacket. Definitely post pics when you get it.

Thank you, I sure will, can’t wait.

 

[Edward]

Ah, Grasshopper: there is but one answer to this question, and it takes the form of a question itself: Which one should you buy first?

 

[Brandrea33]

Ah, Grasshopper: there is but one answer to this question, and it takes the form of a question itself: Which one should you buy first?

I come from another forum where collecting follows this mantra ... I’m going to go with baby steps here

 

[red devil]

I come from another forum where collecting follows this mantra ... I’m going to go with baby steps here

That's what a lot of forums members said... what they did, didn't always match

You will want to try and get:
- Other makers - they each have something interesting to offer
- Other styles - you are at the top of the iceberg
- Other hides - different feels depending on what you feel like wearing at the moment
- Potentially other colours - there is more than black or brown
- And it goes on

 

[Brandrea33]

That's what a lot of forums members said... what they did, didn't always match

You will want to try and get:
- Other makers - they each have something interesting to offer
- Other styles - you are at the top of the iceberg
- Other hides - different feels depending on what you feel like wearing at the moment
- Potentially other colours - there is more than black or brown
- And it goes on

You seem like an enabler ... but I do appreciate the thoughts. I must go slowly.

 

[Edward]

You seem like an enabler ... but I do appreciate the thoughts. I must go slowly.

We're all enablers here!

 

[Brandrea33]

We're all enablers here!

I may need to limit my time here

In all seriousness, this forum has a wealth of information and I am very impressed with the depth of knowledge and experience so many of you have.

Before I started looking into my first “good quality” leather jacket, I had no idea a place like this existed. Kudos to you all