Newbie ~ advice on what’s what with different jacket patterns

[Brandrea33]

Ok guys and gals ... apologies for the long post here.

I’d like your assistance on some basics when it comes to choosing the right leather jacket (for me). I know that you can’t read my mind but I’m just looking for general comments as to what jackets “might be best suited” for the following criteria:

I recently bought a Himel Bro’s Imperial HH, black oil jacket. I was measured by Dave himself and the jacket fits perfectly as a “tailored” garment should, however ... I feel it’s a bit too tight as a daily wearer. I accept responsibility for not making it clearer that I wanted to layer under the jacket. I had hoped to wear at least a mid weight sweater or sweatshirt underneath (not looking to wear a fisherman’s cable knit under it lol) just something for added warmth.

Crazy as it sounds I was think of having Dave make me another one with slight modifications to the chest and shoulders to achieve my layering goal and then it dawned on me ... maybe the pattern just isn’t suited to this ...

Could it be I need to be looking at other designs because the Imperial pattern is just meant to be “neat fitting”?

Here are a few pics. I’ve had the jacket now for a two months and worn it regularly. It’s so beautiful. Love the leather, the length, the sleeves, everything about it really, except that I just can’t wear a sweater under it without it becoming uncomfortable. The chest and shoulders restrict movement if a wear a sweater.

measures: PP: 23”, shoulder 18.75. Do you think going 24”PP and 19.5 shoulder might do the trick?

Thank you all in advance for your patience with this rambling post. Advice and opions would be much appreciated.

Brian.

 

[handymike]

Brian,
I think your jacket looks fantastic- a 10/10...The Imperial was designed to be a “neater” fit as you noted. It tapers inward like a Cafe Racer style. This is the very first one:
Notice how the sides curve inwards

As an alternative, I would give Himel’s Frobisher a try. It is a gorgeous design and looks really good on with more of a “relaxed” feel.

 

[Brandrea33]

....
As an alternative, I would give Himel’s Frobisher a try. It is a gorgeous design and looks really good on with more of a “relaxed” feel.

Thank you for the reply Mike, really appreciate it. Your jackets look beautiful! Perfect fit!

So in your opinion, the Frobisher pattern would be better suited to a more “relaxed fit for layering than trying to adjust the Imperial as I mentioned?

It’s funny, because I was originally going to order the Frobisher and then I saw the Imperial and just fell in love with the pattern.

 

[Carlos840]

Personally i do not think the Imperial is a very comfortable jacket and i don't think sizing up will sort out your problems.
I briefly had a Goodwear Imperial in size 46, which was probably one if not two sizes too large for me and it was still pretty restrictive, it didn't feel comfortable to live in at all and cured me of my want for an Imperial.
After unsuccessfully being on the GW waiting list for 5 years i sold it on with no regrets.

Saying that i do own a Himel Chevalier, which is a pattern actually designed by Dave himself (the Imperial was originaly copied by John Chapman) and it is a briliant pattern, even on a snug jacket it is super comfortable and easy to live with.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-chevalier-bis.93446/

 

[handymike]

I don’t own a Frobisher, but I’ve tried one on. It was a size up and still looked great. I’d ask @Superfluous as he’s got both.

 

[jeo]

I own both. Both have the same measurements and the difference is negligible. The imperial might be slightly more comfortable because it has larger arm holes. I don't think the pattern would make a difference if you're comparing these two models, but more so the measurements of the jacket.

 

[Brandrea33]

Personally i do not think the Imperial is a very comfortable jacket and i don't think sizing up will sort out your problems.
I briefly had a Goodwear Imperial in size 46, which was probably one if not two sizes too large for me and it was still pretty restrictive, it didn't feel comfortable to live in at all and cured me of my want for an Imperial.
After unsuccessfully being on the GW waiting list for 5 years i sold it on with no regrets.

Saying that i do own a Himel Chevalier, which is a pattern actually designed by Dave himself (the Imperial was originaly copied by John Chapman) and it is a briliant pattern, even on a snug jacket it is super comfortable and easy to live with.

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/himel-bros-chevalier-bis.93446/

Thanks Carlos, I truly appreciate your reply. I’ve follow you here and value your opinion. I’m almost exactly the same size as you (6’2”, 41” chest and I weigh 175 lbs). I’m always curious as to how sizing works as the jacket I have is tagged as a 42 with the measurements I gave above.

Regardless, it’s sounds as though maybe it’s the pattern more so than the sizing. I admit the jacket fits me well in a tee shirt or a long sleeve shirt. Maybe I just need to find a more suitable design for layering.

I suppose I should just call Dave and see if I can go try on a bunch more styles to find something I can layer with.

 

[Brandrea33]

I own both. Both have the same measurements and the difference is negligible. The imperial might be slightly more comfortable because it has larger arm holes. I don't think the pattern would make a difference if you're comparing these two models, but more so the measurements of the jacket.

Thanks for this Joe.

I get so confused as to whether my jacket is too tight in the chest, the shoulders, the armholes or all of the aforementioned...lol. Whatever the case, I know it looks good it just feels too tight to layer which is my mistake for improperly communicating that to Dave.

 

[jonbuilder]

Some very clear and thoughtful responses

 

[Dr H]

I own neither pattern, but it strikes me that they are both pretty trim, relatively short, and preclude any serious layering.
If you’re set on a Himel, then my suggestion would the Canuck. In the right size it will probably allow a little more room.
I have Freewheelers Brakeman and Journeyman coats, which are not dissimilar, and this is feasible (it is after all an autumn/winter jacket).
Others have the Canuck on FL and can probably advise.

 

[Brandrea33]

View attachment 278589 I own neither pattern, but it strikes me that they are both pretty trim, relatively short, and preclude any serious layering.
If you’re set on a Himel, then my suggestion would the Canuck. In the right size it will probably allow a little more room.
I have Freewheelers Brakeman and Journeyman coats, which are not dissimilar, and this is feasible (it is after all an autumn/winter jacket).
Others have the Canuck on FL and can probably advise.

Thank you for this.

It also dawned on me that maybe it’s the hide?

Perhaps goat skin would provide a little more flexibility through the chest and shoulders for adding a layer?

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

That fit looks great. But something to keep in mind, what looks great is probably not going to be comfortable (at least that's what my wife tells me every time she wears anything form fitting). I think generally speaking certain styles are going to lend themselves more to layering underneath. Fashion is a wide spectrum so you hate to be narrow with rules, but for me, I wouldn't wear much more than a tshirt or thin long sleeve underneath a cafe racer or cafe racer base jacket. But I live in Los Angeles where you have to choose between sweater and jacket on most days, so take my advice with grain of salt.

 

[Brandrea33]

That fit looks great. But something to keep in mind, what looks great is probably not going to be comfortable (at least that's what my wife tells me every time she wears anything form fitting). I think generally speaking certain styles are going to lend themselves more to layering underneath. Fashion is a wide spectrum so you hate to be narrow with rules, but for me, I wouldn't wear much more than a tshirt or thin long sleeve underneath a cafe racer or cafe racer base jacket. But I live in Los Angeles where you have to choose between sweater and jacket on most days, so take my advice with grain of salt.

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

I guess my next decision is whether I can live this jacket as is and accept that I can’t layer in it, or move on to another jacket design, better suited for layering. C’est La Vie

Shane because I really love this beautiful pattern.

 

[Brandrea33]

So, if the Imperial pattern isn’t as well suited to layering, can anyone recommend what Himel Bro’s design might be a better style of jacket for layering? The Heron looks like it might be a boxier cut and better suited ...

Also, would the choice of leather used play into this at all?
I love the Shinki HH that Dave uses, but I’m wondering if perhaps a different hide provides a little more “give” and might be better for layering.

Thank you, Brian

 

[Carlos840]

So, if the Imperial pattern isn’t as well suited to layering, can anyone recommend what Himel Bro’s design might be a better style of jacket for layering? The Heron looks like it might be a boxier cut and better suited ...

Also, would the choice of leather used play into this at all?
I love the Shinki HH that Dave uses, but I’m wondering if perhaps a different hide provides a little more “give” and might be better for layering.

Thank you, Brian

What do you mean by "layering"? Do you want to be able to fit a giant hoodie underneath your jacket?
I don't really get the need for layering... Just wear a warmer jacket.
I go T-shirt + cotton lined leather jacket, if needed i add a wool jumper (all my jackets can deal with a regular wool jumper without feeling tight). If that's still not enough i switch to a jacket with a wool lining, if that's still not enough i get out the quilted lined or fleece lined, if still not enough get the B-3 out. Done.

IMO if a leather jacket can fit a giant hoodie or a super thick fisherman style jumper it is too big and will look crap when wearing only a T-shirt.

 

[Brandrea33]

What do you mean by "layering"? Do you want to be able to fit a giant hoodie underneath your jacket?
I don't really get the need for layering... Just wear a warmer jacket.
I go T-shirt + cotton lined leather jacket, if needed i add a wool jumper (all my jackets can deal with a regular wool jumper without feeling tight). If that's still not enough i switch to a jacket with a wool lining, if that's still not enough i get out the quilted lined or fleece lined, if still not enough get the B-3 out. Done.

IMO if a leather jacket can fit a giant hoodie or a super thick fisherman style jumper it is too big and will look crap when wearing only a T-shirt.

I thought I was pretty clear in my original post.

I’m not looking to wear a fisherman’s cable knit sweater, just a sweater or sweatshirt on cooler days.

 

[Carlos840]

I thought I was pretty clear in my original post.

I’m not looking to wear a fisherman’s cable knit sweater, just a sweater or sweatshirt on cooler days.

Sorry, i hadn't read the original post in a few days, i'm just surprised you can't wear a sweater or a sweatshirt underneath that jacket, it really doesn't look that tight.

 

[Peacoat]

If you go from 23" to 24" p2p, you will be getting an extra 2" in the chest as the p2p is only 1/2 of the chest measurement.

 

[Brandrea33]

If you go from 23" to 24" p2p, you will be getting an extra 2" in the chest as the p2p is only 1/2 of the chest measurement.

Ah, didn’t realize that’s how that works .... so maybe all I’d need is 1/2” in the chest and shoulder? Assuming this pattern would work for layering.

 

[Brandrea33]

Sorry, i hadn't read the original post in a few days, i'm just surprised you can't wear a sweater or a sweatshirt underneath that jacket, it really doesn't look that tight.

No worries mate. Yes it’s tight. I’ll post a picture of me in a sweater I’d like to wear (it’s a fairly thin cotton vee neck) and with the jacket zipped up.

I get the whole layering thing, it seems to be a bit polarizing. I accept that I should’ve been clearer with Himel about what I wanted/expected of the jacket fit. It was my first go and a costly mistake.

I also understand a leather jacket such as this, isn’t exactly designed to ward off our Canadian winters. I just enjoy wearing sweaters with my jackets, and this doesn’t work all that well for that purpose.

It does fit very well with a tee, so I’m a bit sheepish about approaching Dave. He’ll probably say it’s a perfect fit which in a way it is if I accept the fact it’s not for layering. Live and learn.