New Vintage 3 Piece Suit: Looking for Feedback

[Chasseur]

I've been looking for a vintage, British, 3 piece, pinstripe, charcoal suit for some time. While he didn't always wear pinstrips, Francis Urquhart was my inspiration:

I finally found one in my size after some time.

Hector Powe, British suit, probably 1960s (thats what the seller said). Nice charcoal wool with silver and red stripes. Two rear vents on the jacket, one forward pleat on each leg of the trousers. Trousers have adjustable side fasteners, no belt loops or suspender buttons.

Vest:

Trousers:

I am looking for any feedback from members. From my limited knowledge, I think I could have the hem of the trousers down a little and I'd like to see if my tailor can take the trousers hip section out abit. I am also thinking of putting in suspender buttons to keep the trousers up and to not show any shirt under the vest.

The waist fits, but the hips/seat is a little snuger than I like. Must cycle more...

Thank you for your time and knowledge.

 

[billyspew]

Looks good to me!

If you're after a bit of history on Hector Powe, they were a high end London tailors, famous for their visiting bespoke tailoring service. They were purchased by Great Universal (yes the catalogue people), who merged the company into Burberrys (who still run the visitng tailor service). It was purchsed solely so that Burberrys could have their staff, suit patterns and Hudderfield cloth weavers, which they shut a couple of years later. They did this with a few other London tailors, such as Willoughbys.

Does yours have the metal rings for the braces, rather than buttons?

Bill

 

[Chasseur]

Bill,

Thanks for the information. I knew a little about Hector Powe, and that they were bought out sometime ago (1970s?) but not all those details!

No buttons for suspenders, nor beltloops. It has those metal side zips, but it still has a tendency to sag down, so I'd like to get some suspender buttons put in.

 

[Bird's One View]

It's a nice looking suit.

If the pants have not sagged in the picture, the length looks okay to me. It could be longer but doesn't need to be. If they have sagged in that picture, they are too short.

Brace buttons are a good idea. I'd defer the decision on the length until the buttons are installed and any waist / seat adjustments have been done.

Shirt sleeves are too long and cuffs are too wide. I like the collar though. Do you know the age of the shirt?

 

[billyspew]

Bill,

Thanks for the information. I knew a little about Hector Powe, and that they were bought out sometime ago (1970s?) but not all those details!

No buttons for suspenders, nor beltloops. It has those metal side zips, but it still has a tendency to sag down, so I'd like to get some suspender buttons put in.

Yes it was the 1970's. I can probably get the exact year as my father was the accountant from Burberrys sent in to shut them down!

 

[Chasseur]

Thanks. I'll get the buttons in first and then have the tailor take a look at the fit.

The shirt is a new Hart, Schaffner and Marx. The sleaves are too long and wide at the cuff. I liked the long point collar though. It amazes me what one shirt makers idea of 17-35 is compared to another's is. One has sleaves too long, the other too short...

 

[Slim Portly]

That suit looks fantastic on you! As you have indicated you intend, do no tailoring until after you've worn it with suspenders. If possible, post pictures here with the suspenders worn.

 

[Tomasso]

The vest could be a teensy bit on the short side. Otherwise.........:eusa_clap

 

[thunderw21]

Nice looking suit.
The trousers could stand to be a bit longer in the leg and worn higher with the vest. Jacket has good shape; the top button looks like it wants to be free.

 

[SMUPhil]

What's the term, if there is one, for the way this jacket looks to be tailored around the OP's waist? Do suits ever come like this or is this always a custom-tailored job? I ask because I have a bigger chest but a pretty small waist, and every time I try a coat on, it looks huge around the middle, but fits ok up in the chest and shoulders.

 

[Guttersnipe]

What's the term, if there is one, for the way this jacket looks to be tailored around the OP's waist? Do suits ever come like this or is this always a custom-tailored job? I ask because I have a bigger chest but a pretty small waist, and every time I try a coat on, it looks huge around the middle, but fits ok up in the chest and shoulders.

I call it a "pinched waist" but have no idea if that's the correct term or not. It's a detail commonly found on vintage suits that, alas, is not usually incorporated into modern ones.

 

[Madame_Circa]

Well done on finding a three piece in your size!

I agree that the trousers should sit slightly higher up and the length could come down a bit - but it needs to be determined after fitting buttons for the braces and perhaps taking out the hips.

Also agree that the suit is '60s. I think your shirt needs (as well as the shorter and narrower cuffs), a smaller collar. Seeing as it's hand tailored, have you checked the inside pocket to see if it has details of original date and for whom it was made?

Nicole

 

[Chasseur]

Thanks all!

I really appreciate the comments.

Yeah the shirt, while nominally my size, is too large. Its new so I was trying it on as well.

Nicole thanks for reminding me about the label. I meant to ask about that in the first post. It reads:

RTW 24829
A 37664
R 56

I assume RTW is 'ready to wear' and R 56 is the size in European 56 so about 46 in US/UK? I could be totally wrong on that...

I'm going to get suspender buttons put in and then talk to my tailor about the hips and then later the inseam.

 

[Dan D]

Type of waist

What's the term, if there is one, for the way this jacket looks to be tailored around the OP's waist? Do suits ever come like this or is this always a custom-tailored job? I ask because I have a bigger chest but a pretty small waist, and every time I try a coat on, it looks huge around the middle, but fits ok up in the chest and shoulders.

I've seen it referred to as a 'nipped' waist.

 

[Chasseur]

I added suspender buttons and here is the result.

Looks good with the waistcoat so that my shirt does not pop out now.

I think the hem could be brought down abit and see if the tailor can find a little more room for my hips...

 

[Alex Oviatt]

Looks good to me!

If you're after a bit of history on Hector Powe, they were a high end London tailors, famous for their visiting bespoke tailoring service. They were purchased by Great Universal (yes the catalogue people), who merged the company into Burberrys (who still run the visitng tailor service). It was purchsed solely so that Burberrys could have their staff, suit patterns and Hudderfield cloth weavers, which they shut a couple of years later. They did this with a few other London tailors, such as Willoughbys.

Does yours have the metal rings for the braces, rather than buttons?

Bill

I have an early 60s bespoke Hector Powe with the rings and elastic braces--it is amazing fabric and really great cut. I like to research the original owners of old bespoke suits (thank goodness for tailor's labels) and the gent for whom this one was made was a rather prominent man in the City. Very little tailoring needed--interesting to think that there was someone out there with almost my exact body. I wish I could ask what ties and shirts he wore with it.....

 

[Bugsy]

You and the suit look wonderful. :eusa_clap Congratulations.

 

[Chasseur]

Thanks guys!

As an update for the suit, the modifications seem to have worked and the trousers fit good now. In fact I have a "formal" dinner to go to tonight and I just might wear the suit for the first time.

 

[Cobden]

Lovely suit - very British, very of the era.

For the full British look of the period, I'd advise a plain black tie worn with white shirt and detachable starched collar (narrow and fairly spread, I think they're usually called Albany, though VSC sells them as "Burlingtons")

 

[cptjeff]

It indeed looks very nice, and fits you quite well. I might have the trouser openings angled so they're a little longer in the back, but that's PP of course.