New to vintage Bucos..

[Brandywine76]

Hello, I’m new to The Fedora Lounge. I found this site on another advice forum. I am looking to get more information on a Buco Motorcycle jacket and pants that were handed down to me from my great uncle who bought them new in the 50s. They are practically new looking except being folded and stored for a few decades. I have recently conditioned them and they hang in a spot of honor in my closet now. I’m curious as to what model(?) it is and if someone could narrow it down to the year? I can’t seem to find much. Another question I have is what’s the meaningful differences between steer hide and horse hide? Mine is steer hide. Unfortunately something I’m disappointed in is that it’s very small. It doesn’t have a size tag but it fits me like a woman’s small/medium would fit, slightly too tight in the shoulders for me to wear comfortably ( not to mention, I’m not remotely cool enough to wear it much less own it) I would say it’s definitely a men’s small. I would love to hear some more information on the history of my nifty treasure. Cheers! Let me know if anyone would like to see more pictures, I love showing it off! Thanks for your time!

 

[Blackadder]

Hello, I’m new to The Fedora Lounge. I found this site on another advice forum. I am looking to get more information on a Buco Motorcycle jacket and pants that were handed down to me from my great uncle who bought them new in the 50s. They are practically new looking except being folded and stored for a few decades. I have recently conditioned them and they hang in a spot of honor in my closet now. I’m curious as to what model(?) it is and if someone could narrow it down to the year? I can’t seem to find much. Another question I have is what’s the meaningful differences between steer hide and horse hide? Mine is steer hide. Unfortunately something I’m disappointed in is that it’s very small. It doesn’t have a size tag but it fits me like a woman’s small/medium would fit, slightly too tight in the shoulders for me to wear comfortably ( not to mention, I’m not remotely cool enough to wear it much less own it) I would say it’s definitely a men’s small. I would love to hear some more information on the history of my nifty treasure. Cheers! Let me know if anyone would like to see more pictures, I love showing it off! Thanks for your time!

It is indeed a ladies model Buco. Probably a J-14. It does not have the chest cigarette pocket. The back is also different from a Men's J-24.
https://www.greatpower.info/product/45
https://www.carousell.com.my/p/buco-j-24-horsehide-leather-jacket-284941822/

Steerhide from the 50s. I am not sure if there is a meaningful difference for user between HH and Steer from the same era. The reason the HH is more expensive is because the steer came later in the 50s. All the early 40s (you can tell by the label) Bucos are HH.

 

[Carlos840]

That's super cool, it really looks brand new! Don't think i have ever seen such nice condition Buco gear.
Unfortunately i can't help with model numbers.

Regardign the Horse vs Steer, there answer will depend.
Some will tell you they are nothing alike and give you huge lists of obvious differences.

Some will tell you there are no differences, the tanning is what has the most influence on the leather.
Eastman says that only DNA testing can differentiate horse from steer if they are tanned the same.
Aero at some point in their history sold jackets made from steer that where labeled as horse, no one could tell them appart. (search for "Storse scandal")

I personally think there are no differences you can stricly attribute to the animal used.
I have seen horse hide that had features that everyone would attribute to steer hide, and i have seen steer hide that had features that everyone would attribute to horse hide.

 

[Brandywine76]

It is indeed a ladies model Buco. Probably a J-14. It does not have the chest cigarette pocket. The back is also different from a Men's J-24.
https://www.greatpower.info/product/45
https://www.carousell.com.my/p/buco-j-24-horsehide-leather-jacket-284941822/

View attachment 484164



Steerhide from the 50s. I am not sure if there is a meaningful difference for user between HH and Steer from the same era. The reason the HH is more expensive is because the steer came later in the 50s. All the early 40s (you can tell by the label) Bucos are HH.

I had a feeling it was a women’s by the room in the chest and narrow shoulders when I scrutinized the fit. It doesn’t match the story I was told/remember hearing about it though. It will remain a mystery as all my family have passed away and took the story with them. Thanks for your time!

 

[photo2u]

Those are beautiful leathers.

There were several women's' jackets made by buco including 1947 lj14 This was their main production ladies' jacket. In 1950 it changed by number to the jl1.
Later they added the j-15m in the late 50s.

The images came from 1947 and 1950 (orange) catalog. The J-15 came from an add from a magazine on the net.

 

[Aloysius]

Unfortunately something I’m disappointed in is that it’s very small. It doesn’t have a size tag but it fits me like a woman’s small/medium would fit, slightly too tight in the shoulders for me to wear comfortably ( not to mention, I’m not remotely cool enough to wear it much less own it)

At least from how it looks on your shoulders, I wouldn't think it's too small. Are you new to wearing cross-zip jackets? I think you would get used to it pretty quickly (it may be that the jacket needs a very light bit of more conditioning, even Vaseline would work per John Chapman who restores and reproduces beautiful vintage jackets.)

There's something incredibly cool about you wearing it direct from the family instead of bought from a vintage reseller for four figures, so I really hope this works out.

Let me know if anyone would like to see more pictures, I love showing it off! Thanks for your time!

It is an amazing jacket in amazing condition. Please do post more, worn and unworn. The details are really cool, and I don't know that I've seen this model 'in the flesh' so to say.

 

[Will Zach]

@Brandywine76 - a lot of us at this forum thought we are not "cool" enough to wear motorcycle jackets, but that is a wrong approach. If you feel like wearing it, wear it. Particularly for ladies, a biker jacket is a very common wardrobe item. In this jacket you would own any room you walk into. It is a rarity in this condition, and a treasure.

 

[Brandywine76]

I would wear it with an evening gown and my docs if I were to wear it but unfortunately it is too narrow in the shoulders and I wouldn’t be comfortable. Maybe a photoshoot is in order. Thank you for the encouragement.

 

[Brandywine76]

At least from how it looks on your shoulders, I wouldn't think it's too small. Are you new to wearing cross-zip jackets? I think you would get used to it pretty quickly (it may be that the jacket needs a very light bit of more conditioning, even Vaseline would work per John Chapman who restores and reproduces beautiful vintage jackets.)

There's something incredibly cool about you wearing it direct from the family instead of bought from a vintage reseller for four figures, so I really hope this works out.



It is an amazing jacket in amazing condition. Please do post more, worn and unworn. The details are really cool, and I don't know that I've seen this model 'in the flesh' so to say.

I will take more pictures in a day or two. Who am I to deny a fan (of the jacket of course…) I’m aware that they are supposed to fit snugly but it borders on painful to raise my arms at all. I have broad shoulders and a larger bone structure for a woman. A ballerina I am not. Although the jacket would look great with a tutu…

 

[Brandywine76]

I will take more pictures in a day or two. Who am I to deny a fan (of the jacket of course…) I’m aware that they are supposed to fit snugly but it borders on painful to raise my arms at all. I have broad shoulders and a larger bone structure for a woman. A ballerina I am not. Although the jacket would look great with a tutu…

At least from how it looks on your shoulders, I wouldn't think it's too small. Are you new to wearing cross-zip jackets? I think you would get used to it pretty quickly (it may be that the jacket needs a very light bit of more conditioning, even Vaseline would work per John Chapman who restores and reproduces beautiful vintage jackets.)

There's something incredibly cool about you wearing it direct from the family instead of bought from a vintage reseller for four figures, so I really hope this works out.



It is an amazing jacket in amazing condition. Please do post more, worn and unworn. The details are really cool, and I don't know that I've seen this model 'in the flesh' so to say.

I have only worn it once out of the house and for only a few minutes because it hurt my shoulders. For Halloween…

 

[Damon141]

Wow what amazing condition. The best shape I’ve seen. Looks great but even if you don’t wear it often, it’s worth holding onto forever and having limited experience myself, others will have a better idea, but believe this will increase in value in years to come. It would surely make a one if a kind heirloom for your family

 

[Will Zach]

Yeah, if it hurts shoulders it is too small...

 

[Damon141]

Yeah, if it hurts shoulders it is too small...

I know it’s not new but vintage. Is there a chance a good couple conditioning treatments and repeated wear might help ease the shoulder problem?

From the one picture in the mirror, it doesn’t look terribly small. I just wonder if it would loosen up or mold to her body if it’s been sitting for so long.

 

[Brandywine76]

I will take more pictures in a day or two. Who am I to deny a fan (of the jacket of course…) I’m aware that they are supposed to fit snugly but it borders on painful to raise my arms at all. I have broad shoulders and a larger bone structure for a woman. A ballerina I am not. Although the jacket would look great with a tutu…

Wow what amazing condition. The best shape I’ve seen. Looks great but even if you don’t wear it often, it’s worth holding onto forever and having limited experience myself, others will have a better idea, but believe this will increase in value in years to come. It would surely make a one if a kind heirloom for your family

Sadly I don’t have any family left above ground except one little girl. She has zero interest (or taste) in it. I’m going to try and educate her about how special it is. She will be too big to wear it in a few years. Her dad is 6’7” and she is well on her way to over six for hersel. It fits her great now and she has no interest in it. I’m going to show her this thread and maybe change her mind. Fingers crossed!

 

[Brandywine76]

I know it’s not new but vintage. Is there a chance a good couple conditioning treatments and repeated wear might help ease the shoulder problem?

From the one picture in the mirror, it doesn’t look terribly small. I just wonder if it would loosen up or mold to her body if it’s been sitting for so long.

I was wondering the same thing…could it be stretched and broken in like a pair of tight leather shoes?

 

[Damon141]

I was wondering the same thing…could it be stretched and broken in like a pair of tight leather shoes?

Many members here have a multitude of vintage jackets so hopefully they will answer. A common sense answer would be yes depending upon how tight they are.

I wonder how long it’s been sitting. And how dry it is. There are so many conditioners out there that might help, some more expensive than others and some are recommended for very dry jackets.
A safe and accessible product you can get anywhere and won’t leave your jacket greasy would be Lexol.

 

[photo2u]

I was wondering the same thing…could it be stretched and broken in like a pair of tight leather shoes?

The jacket might be stiff due to age and also lack of leather movement/use. Please do not try to stretch at this moment. The cotton thread? Might break from the seems. If you have a chance, please review my attic jacket treatment. It is something similar to what Cal leathers do to condition the leather. The difference between my and Cal's approach is that my jacket receives a more consistent heat in the attic rather than laying it out in the sun. I also use a conditioner very similar to Cal's preferred conditioner :https://skidmores.com/product/leather-cream/

One more thing regarding the hides. Your jacket is from the productions in Detroit. Their SH is thicker and very pliable. Their last production (Southfield) SH was thinner and had a very nice tea-core finish to it. I have both. I like them equally. The newer teacore is so cool, but the older thicker SH is so very supple. WIn, win in my book.

Here is the link for the conditioning tread : https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...onditioner-comparison-on-reddit.101735/page-8

I think you should rock it. It definitely looks like you can!

 

[Blackadder]

Another Steerhide J-12, J-14 or LJ-1
https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-ladies-buco-leather-steer-1926174468
A giveaway of ladies cut are the darts in front down from the shoulder to chest.
The Breeches/pants however look like men's cut.

 

[Monitor]

I was wondering the same thing…could it be stretched and broken in like a pair of tight leather shoes?

To some degree. Check out @Marc mndt's post on the matter...
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...jacket-repair-tips.104840/page-3#post-2842903

 

[ton312]

Wow! What an amazing story and truly amazing set of leathers. I’ve never seen a Buco, mens or women’s, with that Halfbelt style back! That is incredibly cool and the condition of both pieces is really remarkable!

As far as the fit goes, it’s really hard to tell from the pics but I believe M/C jackets and cross zip styles in particular, should be worn tight.
I’d love to see more pics. Such an amazing set of leathers and there provenance makes them even cooler!