New Thedi Memphis- Fit Check!

[Kevin O'Sullivan]

This Forum led me into the light on a prior lambskin Schott Perfecto purchase last year- I am hoping y'all can help me out again. I finally went ahead and nabbed a Thedi after coveting one forever, Carrie at Thurston Bros was great. It is a stock jacket, Small, so looking for a fit check here as I will likely have to go custom, already have a few nitpicks on it. I could go on and on about the build quality and leather, but we are here to criticize so here are my nitpicks. It's a horsehide jacket and lovely but the leather is indeed stiff, especially compared to the lambskin (to be expected) so hoping somebody can chime in on the tendency of the leather to soften and mold. Otherwise might prefer the buffalo.

-I think the pit-to-pit might be too tight. I have a V shaped back and large lats so fit is always rough for me. My shoulders are sloped and I get points up in the shoulder area.
-The jacket feels about an inch too long, but not sure if this style is supposed to be a longer jacket. Having a two-way zipper helps a lot with the length especially when seated, but the feeling that the jacket drops over the top part of my butt is a bit strange.
-The action back is.... very action, especially when I relax my shoulders a bit or breath in. It protrudes out a good deal. Again, think the pit-to-pit is a bit tight here and an inch out might be a game changer.
-The lining is cotton, and makes entry/exit an affair with a cotton long sleeved shirt. My Schott is a Poly/Rayon blend and I can slide that puppy on/off like butter

I think those are the big items. It's a crazy beautiful jacket, the horsehide is the classic armor sensation and I love it just want to make sure it will break a good bit and give the shoulder and arms a bit more slope/form respectively.

All comments welcome, as it is a bit of a costly piece so want to shoot for a solid fit.

Kevin

 

[high-maintenance]

Looking sleek. I wouldn't change a thing.
But then again, looking a jacket and actually wearing one are completely different.
Underarm footballs can really be a game changer which starkly increases the range of motion, something that European jacketmakers rarely offer. Try Langlitz next time.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

Hard to say with the length bc you didn't show a pic with it open to see where your belt line falls.

I agree you should let the chest out a little. The top pic looks uncomfortable under the arms. Also, you may need more than 1" if you want close the back in a static standing position. A key factor will be keeping the waist measurement as is, so it tapers like you do.

Last year I did a custom Thedi with Carrie and went with halfway between the large and medium for the shoulders and chest, but medium for waist and length. Fit came back spot on for the measurements I requested and it fits great.

FWIW, I have cotton drill in the body, but rayon in the arms, so it's easy on and off, but also more robust lining in the body. My jacket is buffalo. It's not a thin, supple leather either. But, I think it's not as stiff as horse. It's still pretty stiff and heavy.

 

[photo2u]

The jacket fits you great. Perhaps the type of leather might be an option you might want to look into. I love the way deer hugs the body.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Keep it on for at least ~ 10 minutes. Does the HH soften up a bit as it warms up & relaxes?
A bit snug though the mid-section to my eye, otherwise - as close to spot-on as you'll find.

Trust Carrie's advice - she is awesome at nailing the fit on a custom jacket. Even that stock jacket looks excellent to my eyes.

 

[high-maintenance]

One more thing. After all the monetary losses due to sub-optimally fitting stock jacket purchases (not suggesting that is your case, yours looks fine to me), I came to a conclusion that custom jackets are well worth the wait and upcharge.

 

[nickv]

This Forum led me into the light on a prior lambskin Schott Perfecto purchase last year- I am hoping y'all can help me out again. I finally went ahead and nabbed a Thedi after coveting one forever, Carrie at Thurston Bros was great. It is a stock jacket, Small, so looking for a fit check here as I will likely have to go custom, already have a few nitpicks on it. I could go on and on about the build quality and leather, but we are here to criticize so here are my nitpicks. It's a horsehide jacket and lovely but the leather is indeed stiff, especially compared to the lambskin (to be expected) so hoping somebody can chime in on the tendency of the leather to soften and mold. Otherwise might prefer the buffalo.

-I think the pit-to-pit might be too tight. I have a V shaped back and large lats so fit is always rough for me. My shoulders are sloped and I get points up in the shoulder area.
-The jacket feels about an inch too long, but not sure if this style is supposed to be a longer jacket. Having a two-way zipper helps a lot with the length especially when seated, but the feeling that the jacket drops over the top part of my butt is a bit strange.
-The action back is.... very action, especially when I relax my shoulders a bit or breath in. It protrudes out a good deal. Again, think the pit-to-pit is a bit tight here and an inch out might be a game changer.
-The lining is cotton, and makes entry/exit an affair with a cotton long sleeved shirt. My Schott is a Poly/Rayon blend and I can slide that puppy on/off like butter

I think those are the big items. It's a crazy beautiful jacket, the horsehide is the classic armor sensation and I love it just want to make sure it will break a good bit and give the shoulder and arms a bit more slope/form respectively.

All comments welcome, as it is a bit of a costly piece so want to shoot for a solid fit.

Kevin

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Body looks slim fit , but the sleeves do not look as slim fitting, maybe its coz as you say "you have a larger torso". I prefer the slim fit , i personally would leave the body as is (may be add an inch more in the chest area) and ask Carrie if she can help you with better sleeve measurements.

 

[handymike]

Relax the side- adjusters and see how it feels. I think you’ve pulled them too tight. I would also raise up the bottom zip up about an inch and a half.

 

[MrProper]

I find the fit in principle good and wanted to have the same for me. However, I think the jacket is a little too long.

 

[Marc mndt]

How tall are your and what's the back length of the jacket? Like others have mentioned it does look a bit long and tight. A shorter back length will move the halfbelt up a bit, which I think will look much better.

Did you see how @torfjord wears his?

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/thedi-leather-mtc-d1279720.104445/

 

[navetsea]

I think the jacket fits you great, but I also think the pocket flap is too close to the armpit I imagine after some wear the outer side of the flap would get folded or distorted by constantly hitting your sleeve during driving or typing, etc.

 

[torfjord]

Too long to my eyes and it looks a little bit tight over the chest as well. I have a similar thedi and this is how mine fit me.
I don’t like how yours extend way over your butt. Get a custom one with shorter length and wider chest. As you say, these are costly items so you should not settle.

 

[jacketjunkie]

It looks great, yet uncomfortable. Very tight in the chest. I would go up one size for comfort, shorten the jacket by an inch and make sure the size up does not mess with sleeve length; these are pretty good as they are.

 

[willyto]

To me it looks too tight and too long. I don't believe that can be a comfortable fit.

 

[Kevin O'Sullivan]

Quick update with more fit shots- partial unzip and fully unzip. It's growing on me- still think it's a touch long but not sure it's $350 and 4-8 weeks worth of touch long (cost to get HH custom vs what I paid)

Thoughts?

 

[Bfd70]

I think its great. Don’t get jacket ocd. You won’t be staring at pictures of you in it, you’ll be wearing it. I also recommend leaving TFL immediately. One and done. Wear it and only it until you die. That won’t be possible if you spend time round these parts.

 

[Will Zach]

The Thedi double zipper is genius. How is the back with the bottom few inches unzipped?

 

[Tom71]

I think its great. Don’t get jacket ocd. You won’t be staring at pictures of you in it, you’ll be wearing it. I also recommend leaving TFL immediately. One and done. Wear it and only it until you die. That won’t be possible if you spend time round these parts.

Seconded.

 

[Jasonindenver]

I think the length is fine, especially with the double zipper.

if you do not feel it is binding in your armpits when moving your arms with the jacket zipped, it should mold to you easily. However, this will never be a layering jacket. I would definitely add 1” P2P if you want a three season jacket. Then you can address the length issue to your exact spec as well.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

I think if it feels too tight under the arms it will always be something that bothers you. Sure it will mold, but it will never expand. If you lift or gain any weight by getting older, it will be too tight and you will never reach for it. Get a bit more comfort. It's worth the $350 and 3-4 months if it means the jacket will always be your favorite.