New Suit trouble

[Undertow]

I recently purchased a nice new black suit, sb w/ three buttons, 120's wool from a local suit shop that's closing down after 100 years (or thereabouts). I'm currently in a 40 waist with plans to lose a little weight, the suit was a 38. I tried the pants on at the shop and they were too snug; I could button them but I couldn't wear them like that on a normal day. The salesmen insisted I would only need a 1 1/2" let out to fit well, and coincidentally that's how much the pants had left to let out. The jacket seemed a slight bit snug for me, but did fit well overall.

After having the pants tailored, suspender buttons added and buttons on the jacket tightened (I go through buttons like mad on some suits), I tried the suit on at home and unfortunately, the waist still seems a little snug, or at least too snug to be comfortable. They fit fine, and yes I have enough room to breath, but I wouldn't be happy sitting in them all day.

I have two questions and I would appreciate any guerilla tactics from you serious suit guys.

1. Is there SOMETHING I can do to let these pants out anymore? I've already let out the seat and waist to their full extent. Is there a way to move the clasp? Or is there something else I could do?

2. Can jackets be tailored to fit looser around the shoulders? I should know this but I've never actually had to do it.

 

[Mr. Rover]

You can have a gusset added to the pants, which you sometimes see from Depression-era suits. It's usually not pretty, but it works.

 

[Zig2k143]

Sit ups... my dear boy sit ups....


Lol only joking I couldn't help myself.

I have a lot more then a few inches to lose...

 

[Tomasso]

It would help if you posted photos (front,side,rear) of you wearing the jacket.

 

[Dagwood]

Can jackets be tailored to fit looser around the shoulders? I should know this but I've never actually had to do it.

I don't know either, but I did find an interesting discussion at English Cut (wherein he discusses shoulders, sleeve length and buttonholes). From the English Cut website:

"Also, if you alter the shoulders this can also affect sleeve length, so that too may be slightly compromised. Most tailors, including myself, put two 'real' and two 'sham' holes, for precisely this reason. Four 'real' holes allows for virtually no sleeve length alteration, unless the cloth is plain or striped. If the latter is the case, you can take out the sleeve from the shoulder and shorten it from the top.

"But to lengthen it any more than about three-eighths of an inch at the bottom is going to start looking awful, with cuff buttons apparently floating halfway towards the elbow."

Good luck.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Sounds a bit like the "don't worry about the legs [arms], they'll ride up with wear, Sir" from Are You Being Served.

bk

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Here is a helpful reply: A good tailor can remove the entire waistband and insert a plug of fabric in the back to give you extra room. This will work if that's where the tightness is. If it's in the seat, you're done for.

The shoulders may be adjusted if there is fabric there to work with.

 

[Orgetorix]

2. Can jackets be tailored to fit looser around the shoulders? I should know this but I've never actually had to do it.

My morning coat was a bit snug in the shoulders when I got it. My tailor raised the collar a bit, allowing for slightly more room in the shoulders. He did all he could, and it still wasn't quite perfect--but it did help.

 

[Micawber]

I'd put the suit away until your plans have the desired effect

 

[Undertow]

...a good tailor can remove the entire waistband and insert a plug of fabric in the back to give you extra room.

Please be patient with me when I ask you to explain this a little further. I think I get the idea, but I feel like I'm missing something. So I can have my tailor remove the waistband to open the pants slightly? It doesn't seem like it would be much and I feel like it would end up ruining an otherwise perfectly good pair of pants.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Please be patient with me when I ask you to explain this a little further. I think I get the idea, but I feel like I'm missing something. So I can have my tailor remove the waistband to open the pants slightly? It doesn't seem like it would be much and I feel like it would end up ruining an otherwise perfectly good pair of pants.

I have seen pants altered with a piece of fabric, perhaps an inch and a half wide and fitted in the back. This expands the waist band by that much. It is then, somehow, seamlessly sewn back onto the pants.

 

[Dagwood]

I have seen pants altered with a piece of fabric, perhaps an inch and a half wide and fitted in the back. This expands the waist band by that much. It is then, somehow, seamlessly sewn back onto the pants.

Does this significantly impact the pants drape on the backside?

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Does this significantly impact the pants drape on the backside?

Not a bit, not that I know from personal experience.

 

[Marty M.]

Great Call.

My morning coat was a bit snug in the shoulders when I got it. My tailor raised the collar a bit, allowing for slightly more room in the shoulders. He did all he could, and it still wasn't quite perfect--but it did help.

This is a great call. We've done this alteration before. It works great unless the a tad short or the wearer tends to stoop forward. I've never tried the pant alterations that Hemmingway Jones mentioned. Sounds like interesting.
Marty Mathis

 

[Feraud]

I'd put the suit away until your plans have the desired effect

Agreed. I would start with the simplest advice and work up to the various tailoring solutions.

 

[scotrace]

I'd put the suit away until your plans have the desired effect

Indeed. If they're only slightly snug, this is the best solution. Otherwise, you'll be taking them in again - or be forced to discard the suit after it has been so completely redone for a shape you no longer have. A suit in "120's" fabric won't stand up to repeated hacking. Slimming your waist a bit is also the least expensive solution, by far.

 

[Undertow]

Okay, I have another question regarding this same issue. I realize this may sound a bit faux-pa, but I'm disappointed in my own hasty decision to buy the black suit mentioned in my first post on this thread. I've learned my lesson.

I have been unable to lose the weight, as is common for me, so I was wondering what you folks think about me buying a pair of wool slacks in the same color.

Is this a bad idea? Could I just substitute these pants for my suit pants? I realize I may need to be careful that the colors match up, but if I get lucky, would this work? Comments/suggestions?

Here is a link at what I'm considering. And for the price, I don't think I could lose:
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/177,20645_Pleated-Wool-Pants-For-Men.html

 

[Tomasso]

I was wondering what you folks think about me buying a pair of wool slacks in the same color.

Is this a bad idea?

The answer is a resounding YES!

 

[Undertow]

The answer is a resounding YES!

lol

Could you give me a good reason? (Aside from it possibly being "tacky")

 

[Tomasso]

Could you give me a good reason? (Aside from it possibly being "tacky")

No.