New Real McCoy's store in New York

[RegentSt1965]

The stereotypical East London hipster is still to be seen, and celebrated by the press, to now become a parody of himself (being more often male than female). The casual observer can also view, particularly at weekends, the part-time hipster. (Much like the weekend beatniks of the '60s) And yes, the look inevitably cascades down to the high street via the semi-premium brands. It can take quite a few years for it to swirl out to the everyday Joe. Of course, many pieces are based on authentic classics like the MA1 (and variants) so that after fashion interference and market sanitisation they are often unrecognisable.

 

[Superfluous]

I am at a loss to understand how or why RMC has become associated with hipsters in this thread. RMC specializes in the accurate reproduction of vintage jackets, and does not offer contemporary designs. With few exceptions, the members of Styleforum disfavor RMC and perceive RMC's offerings as antiquated, unoriginal and unimaginative. Instead, Styleforum members exalt contemporary jackets manufactured by Rick Owens, TOJ, Julius, Attachment, MA+, etc, which bear little resemblance to RMC's products. The few retailers that offer RMC products do not offer any of the foregoing contemporary designers. In my experience, the primary patrons of RMC are work wear consumers and vintage denim enthusiasts. Of note, these same work wear consumers and vintage denim enthusiasts also frequently patronize GW, Eastman, etc. Moreover, GW distributes RMC:

"The Real McCoy's and Good Wear Leather are working together. The products made by The Real McCoy's range from vintage leather jackets to denim and workwear, all with extremely high quality. We are proud to offer any of their products that are available. Each of their creations are made in Japan by skilled labor, using fantastic materials from Japanese factories."

http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/the_real_mccoys.html

Therefore, how has RMC become associated with hipsters?

Given its Japanese origin and base of operation, it is not surprising that RMC does not offer jackets larger than a 46.

 

[Monitor]

I don't think at all that the RMC has gotten associated with hipsters - or any other sub-culture for that matter, which is what I find somewhat odd as... At all this near insane attention to detail, I would expect RMC's gear to be aimed primarily at riders, like the LW and their repros, but while they've gotten all the details down to a tee, the fit of their jackets has gotten altered so much that, from what I've heard and seen, they've became near useless for riding - which is why I don't exactly understand where they're going with this. I'd still sell my kidney for RMC!

Thought I find it even stranger that the Styleforum members consider RMC's gear antiquated and unoriginal while at the same time exalting all those brands that literally don't offer a single piece of garment - in this case, leather jacket - that isn't based on exactly the same thing RMC's replicating. Except that most of the brands you've listed do it in an entirely moronic manner, but let's not get into that.

 

[Superfluous]

I am not a rider, so I do not know where RMC's fits deviate from what is desirable for riders. I have tried on original Becks and Bucos, and they were similar to the RMC repros in terms of being very trim fitting. Moreover, the sizing of the original jackets was considerably different from current sizing -- an original Beck labelled a 46 fits similar to a current 42.

 

[RegentSt1965]

RMC is the antithesis of hipsterdom as far as I'm concerned. The brand's attention to detail and period authenticity means isn't the norm for them. Though, like magpies they will pick up on brands that they conceive of as cool. But their being attracted to good brands needn't devalue these brands.

 

[devilish]

I've said this before in other places but RMC isn't the most authentic repro company. They produce an idealized version of the originals, almost 'hyper-real'. Changing fit and other details quite often. Their quality is definitely right up there, of that there is little doubt and the price reflects this. However the patterns of many of their items, especially the military ones, have very often been slimmed to suit a more modern aesthetic. As for being 'hipster', only on the very edges where the crossover occurs with the vintage/work wear/denim crowd.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Thought I find it even stranger that the Styleforum members consider RMC's gear antiquated and unoriginal while at the same time exalting all those brands that literally don't offer a single piece of garment - in this case, leather jacket - that isn't based on exactly the same thing RMC's replicating. Except that most of the brands you've listed do it in an entirely moronic manner, but let's not get into that.

People expect styleforum members to make sense?

 

[Doctor Damage]

I was the one who first mentioned hipsters in this thread and I use the term as a catch-all for those people who wear long beards with suits, expensive lace-up dress shoes without socks, pants which are too tight and too short, oversized shapeless carry-all bags, every product Apple sells, and yes, expensive replica jackets bought from expensive boutique stores. I sense that our members here have a narrower definition of hipsters and I won't argue. I doubt most (but not all) customers of Real McCoy's (or Buzz, etc) are really seeking authenticity or even quality, they're seeking really really expensive limited edition items which the blogs they read have 'approved' as imparting coolness and hip-factor on the wearers. I'd bet most of those Japanese super-fans of replica stuff, who have been the traditional target market for companies like Real McCoy's, don't really know what they're talking about. I have learned from years of reading clothing forums and blogs that almost nobody on the internet is an expert. There really are very few true experts in the world and simply switching on one's brain into OCD mode and remembering huge amounts of information and regurgitating it isn't the same thing. /rant lol

 

[Superfluous]

I've said this before in other places but RMC isn't the most authentic repro company. They produce an idealized version of the originals, almost 'hyper-real'. Changing fit and other details quite often. Their quality is definitely right up there, of that there is little doubt and the price reflects this. However the patterns of many of their items, especially the military ones, have very often been slimmed to suit a more modern aesthetic. As for being 'hipster', only on the very edges where the crossover occurs with the vintage/work wear/denim crowd.

I suspect the deviation from original cuts is most prominent for the looser fitting military repros, as compared to the moto jackets. The original Buco J-100 was a very slim jacket and RMC’s repro is likewise very slim -- I suspect the original and RMC repro are very similar. Conversely, RMC slimmed down its military repros because, in their original cut, they would swim on a typical Japanese man.

I doubt most (but not all) customers of Real McCoy's (or Buzz, etc) are really seeking authenticity or even quality, they're seeking really really expensive limited edition items which the blogs they read have 'approved' as imparting coolness and hip-factor on the wearers.

Why would you make the bold, unsupported and plainly pejorative claim that “most” RMC customers patronize the brand solely because it is expensive and approved by internet bloggers, and could care less about quality? Respectfully, your disparaging statement is ridiculous and I am confident that you have zero data to support your demeaning hypothesis. I know several people who favor RMC jackets and not one does so because the brand is expensive. To the contrary, the multiple RMC patrons I know focus primarily on RMC’s superlative quality, and frequently bemoan the expense. Thus, among the sampling for which I have firsthand knowledge, the price is a detraction, rather than the attraction.

One could make the same unsupported, pejorative claim about the customers of most expensive, limited production products (e.g., Ferraris, Audemars, Goodwear jackets). Audemars are considered very “cool” watches. They are also very well made. Are Audemars purchasers seeking “coolness” or are they seeking a well made, good looking watch? Same question for purchasers of Ferraris?

I have little doubt that some purchasers of RMC jackets, Audemars watches, Ferreris, GW jackets, and many other expensive, limited production products are motivated in part by factors other than the quality of the product. However, to suggest that “most” are motivated primarily by the price, with little or no regard for quality, lacks factual support and, more importantly, is disrespectful and disparaging to the patrons of said products.

/rant.

 

[bentusian]

I think we have to see how RMC started in the first place back in late 80s and early 90s, when Japan already had a long history of admiration for American fashion and their military outfits - which became a distinctive genre in their sub-culture and coined as 'Amekaji(short for American Casual)'. As far as I know that whole post-WW2 generation including the original founder of RMC, Okomoto Hiroshi (now owner of Toys McCoy), was under a heavy influence of American culture such as movies (yes, Steve McQueen and the Taxi Driver), rock'n'roll, food and others, especially with the presence of US troops stationed in Japan. RMC started pretty much as an answer to that demand in the market and has developed and refined its work ever since thanks to the typical Japanese obsessive attention to details (known as Kodawari in Japanese).

So for me it's very interesting to see how RMC is making this grand 'return' to the west where their stuff has originated from.

 

[Monitor]

So basically, RMC is about cosplaying?

 

[pipvh]

So basically, RMC is about cosplaying?

Isn't everything, in these wonderful post-modern times? [huh]

 

[Doctor Damage]

Why would you make the bold, unsupported and plainly pejorative claim that “most” RMC customers patronize the brand solely because it is expensive and approved by internet bloggers, and could care less about quality? Respectfully, your disparaging statement is ridiculous and I am confident that you have zero data to support your demeaning hypothesis. I know several people who favor RMC jackets and not one does so because the brand is expensive. To the contrary, the multiple RMC patrons I know focus primarily on RMC’s superlative quality, and frequently bemoan the expense. Thus, among the sampling for which I have firsthand knowledge, the price is a detraction, rather than the attraction.

One could make the same unsupported, pejorative claim about the customers of most expensive, limited production products (e.g., Ferraris, Audemars, Goodwear jackets). Audemars are considered very “cool” watches. They are also very well made. Are Audemars purchasers seeking “coolness” or are they seeking a well made, good looking watch? Same question for purchasers of Ferraris?

I have little doubt that some purchasers of RMC jackets, Audemars watches, Ferreris, GW jackets, and many other expensive, limited production products are motivated in part by factors other than the quality of the product. However, to suggest that “most” are motivated primarily by the price, with little or no regard for quality, lacks factual support and, more importantly, is disrespectful and disparaging to the patrons of said products.

/rant.

You need to relax, guy, and go find a sense of humour.

 

[nick123]

I'd argue the Japanese models (Rakuten stores) look damn cool. Most of their jackets are short by our standards but the models have this cool confidence about them. They're usually cracking a half smile or have a pleasant demeanor, while our American counterparts can't be bothered by any pleasantness. Not hipsters in my book!

 

[Superfluous]

So basically, RMC is about cosplaying?

Lol! Of course, the same can be said for GW/Eastman/BK and military repros.

 

[Superfluous]

You need to relax, guy, and go find a sense of humour.

I did not read your post as tongue in cheek. If I misinterpreted your deeply veiled humor, I apologize.

 

[bn1966]

Had to look it up:

Cosplay: short for costume play, is a performance art in which participants, called cosplayers, wear costumes and fashion accessories to represent a specific character or idea that is usually identified with a unique name. Cosplayers often interact to create a subculture centered on role play. A broader use of the term cosplay applies to any costumed role play in venues apart from the stage, regardless of the cultural context.

I'm loving this thread

 

[Monitor]

Isn't everything, in these wonderful post-modern times? [huh]

Lol! Of course, the same can be said for GW/Eastman/BK and military repros.

But that is actually very true.

I'm quite positive that most, say, A2 fans are in fact wearing it because of what this jacket represents, because of its story and its history - not merely because it looks good. By itself, a leather jacket is just that.

 

[bentusian]

But that is actually very true.

I'm quite positive that most, say, A2 fans are in fact wearing it because of what this jacket represents, because of its story and its history - not merely because it looks good. By itself, a leather jacket is just that.

Interesting thing about RMC, Buzz and other high-end Amekaji/Military repro brands from Japan is that it's about cosplaying those who vanquished them. I'm not sure whether it's their cultural thing or commonly found in other times and places.

 

[Monitor]

Yeah, I was wondering about that, too... I guess it has to be the undeniable and irresistible allure of Americana which, as a European living in a country with no visual identity (or any kind of identity) whatsoever, I understand completely.