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New old Buco J22 pics

58panheadfan

One Too Many
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1,664
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Switzerland
First of all, it's a nice jacket no doubt... but I almost sure it's a reproduction.

In 1951, J21 was improved and renamed to J22 (with red an black plaid wool lining) an J23 (black rayon quilted lining). J24 came out 1953 as standard with 3rd Label an nylon quilted lining. J21 to J23 standard jackets had only one "map" pocket zipper at left side, but J24 has two "handwarmer" pockets on each side (Rin Tanaka's Book "Ultimate Biker's Fashions" pages 80, 81 & 114).

On the other side, if you go to Rin's Book carefully some jackets shows a mishmash probably produced in transition period (Rin Tanaka's Book "A Century of Leather Design" shows a J22 Jacket with 3rd Label and red x black plaid lining and on page 93 a J22 with two handwarmer pockets).

For sure posted Jacket isn't a J21 because epaulets (UBF Book page 81 and I had an original one some yrs ago). It could be a J22 or J24 using features from each other standards or it's a period custom made one.

But why I guessing it's a reproduction? As mentioned before I have never seen on pictures or for real an original Buco Jacket with frenchseams in positions as shown on posted jacket (upper back and inside sleeve). Of course Buco's have french seams (incl. my original J65 from 1951 successor of JH1 and +/- same period as posted jacket) at the kidney panel section on lower back but from my experience and what I have seen all other seams are folded. Also often a clear reference to an original are the press studs. Studs on my J65 from 1951 are stamped with "United Carr" on back side. If they're plain, then hmmmm...

However, as said before still a nice jacket but root of the matter is: Was it sold to you as an original? For originals, knowing their history is always good, this increases safety and value.. not only for leather jackets. Maybe someone who knows more about vintage leather jackets can bring some light into the dark...
 

BloodEagle

Practically Family
Messages
534
Location
UK
Underside of press stud
IMG_20200501_110934.jpg
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
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1,664
Location
Switzerland
This is a very good indication, that the jacket could be an original. Anyway, I forgot to mention original or not, the main thing is that you are happy and satisfied with the jacket :)
 
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16,851
Repro or original, for 1500 GBP it's a score either way. Because if it's an early RMC, possibly NZ, then that jacket is worth even more than that. It's a pure 2000+GBP piece in any case and a tremendously cool jacket. I'd be very happy to own this one way or another.
 

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,664
Location
Switzerland
If someone here in the forum has a repro jacket (e.g. an RMC) and this also has the writing on the press studs, (which I could imagine from the exact Japanese Manufacturers) of course everything is open again. Ultimately, only knowing the history or an age determination of the leather could provide exact information about it.
 
Last edited:

58panheadfan

One Too Many
Messages
1,664
Location
Switzerland
Repro or original, for 1500 GBP it's a score either way. Because if it's an early RMC, possibly NZ, then that jacket is worth even more than that. It's a pure 2000+GBP piece in any case and a tremendously cool jacket. I'd be very happy to own this one way or another.

In the end that's true ... but as a buyer I would like to know whether an original was sold to me or not. The value of the jacket is ultimately irrelevant ...
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Here is a listing for a basically identical jacket - 2 map pockets, and the same type of stitching.http://buttonupclothing.jp/?p=2941 - a quick search on google and you can find a few.

It also has french seams in the back!
I really wonder when they did the switch, if it was a change on a specific model number, or if it was a custom order thing.
I wish someone did a repro with all french seams!
 

Kuro

Practically Family
Messages
717
Yeah, it is just an old jacket guys, Im not about to make the rich list on the basis of buying it. I actually paid £1350 for it (it pays to negotiate), and I couldnt be happier.

That price... what a good deal.
 

Kuro

Practically Family
Messages
717
You know. I see MANY vintage Sears jackets on the bay that are in conditions that are too good to be true. I own a Stetson Derby easily 100 years old, looks like I just purchased it.

It is not impossible that this jacket is 70 years old. That being said... It is obviously of some significance based on features and condition, and seeing there are others like it make it a very interesting jacket for research and learning.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
First of all, it's a nice jacket no doubt... but I almost sure it's a reproduction.

In 1951, J21 was improved and renamed to J22 (with red an black plaid wool lining) an J23 (black rayon quilted lining). J24 came out 1953 as standard with 3rd Label an nylon quilted lining. J21 to J23 standard jackets had only one "map" pocket zipper at left side, but J24 has two "handwarmer" pockets on each side (Rin Tanaka's Book "Ultimate Biker's Fashions" pages 80, 81 & 114).

On the other side, if you go to Rin's Book carefully some jackets shows a mishmash probably produced in transition period (Rin Tanaka's Book "A Century of Leather Design" shows a J22 Jacket with 3rd Label and red x black plaid lining and on page 93 a J22 with two handwarmer pockets).

For sure posted Jacket isn't a J21 because epaulets (UBF Book page 81 and I had an original one some yrs ago). It could be a J22 or J24 using features from each other standards or it's a period custom made one.

But why I guessing it's a reproduction? As mentioned before I have never seen on pictures or for real an original Buco Jacket with frenchseams in positions as shown on posted jacket (upper back and inside sleeve). Of course Buco's have french seams (incl. my original J65 from 1951 successor of JH1 and +/- same period as posted jacket) at the kidney panel section on lower back but from my experience and what I have seen all other seams are folded. Also often a clear reference to an original are the press studs. Studs on my J65 from 1951 are stamped with "United Carr" on back side. If they're plain, then hmmmm...

However, as said before still a nice jacket but root of the matter is: Was it sold to you as an original? For originals, knowing their history is always good, this increases safety and value.. not only for leather jackets. Maybe someone who knows more about vintage leather jackets can bring some light into the dark...
I think you missed Carlo's thread. He did find a photo of an original Buco with french seams a while ago and started a thread about it.
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
Yeah, it is just an old jacket guys, Im not about to make the rich list on the basis of buying it. I actually paid £1350 for it (it pays to negotiate), and I couldnt be happier.
I still think it is a collector's piece probably from RM's collection so even though it is not a piece of art, it is a piece of history in wonderful condition. By RM's collection, I mean RM's warehouse full of originals that they collect to make the repros. Marrkt/Noverre is not a vintage dealer so it is more likely that the jacket was originally not normal stock but asset/decoration that has to be liquidated.
https://www.thegazette.co.uk/notice/3184761
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,826
Location
China
A J-21 with french seams and one Conmar zipper pillion pocket.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,750
Location
Illinois
I am puzzled. So it is settled? A DD old leather repro?

I don't know what you're saying. I'm not implying that Diamond Dave made the posters jacket. I believe the poster jacket is a original buco. The pictures demonstrate the difference between old and new leather. Nothing else
 

Blackadder

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,826
Location
China
I don't know what you're saying. I'm not implying that Diamond Dave made the posters jacket. I believe the poster jacket is a original buco. The pictures demonstrate the difference between old and new leather. Nothing else
Thanks. I guess I misread the hyphenation.
 

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