New NYPD coat

[Christoball]

So I just acquired a Taylor's Leatherware NYPD jacket. Taylor's people were super helpful and responsive, really top notch customer service. And I like the jacket, a lot.

It is very heavy, slightly pebbled black cowhide, fairly stiff. Rib knit cuffs set inside the sleeves, generous bi-swing bellows, fits well (size chart on website was accurate) and feels like a suit of armor, in a good way.

Lapels button down, but can be unbuttoned so as to button the coat up all the way to the collar.

My only quibble is with the buttons. They do seem very sturdily fastened onto the jacket, which is a big relief - on most button up leather jackets I've had, the buttons were very weakly fastened to the leather. Not these. They stick out from the surface of the coat a bit on long stems, I guess to better accommodate the thickness of the leather. But they are a little flimsy, they have sharp edges on the back that have cut threads in two buttonholes, and so far I've had a tough time buttoning and unbuttoning them because the leather is so thick and stiff. Also they jingle like Christmas bells, which was fun until December 26 and then became slightly annoying.

I've sprayed the coat down with the water/stain repellent Taylor's sells on their website. I rubbed the area around each of the buttonholes with a damp rag dipped in petroleum based softener/conditioner and then put a dowel rod through each of the holes to try and open them up a bit (this was after the lapel buttons cut threads on their holes as I tried to unbutton them) but so far not much luck. What's a better way to break in the button holes?

I wonder if I should get the buttons replaced with something more substantial/less jingly. How wold the coat look with black leather football buttons, for instance? Or similar silver buttons, but more substantial? Any suggestions where to find quality replacement buttons?

Also not sure what sort of hat to wear with this coat. An old fashioned police hat would be the obvious choice but I don't want to. A flat cap, newsboy or ascot or snap brim hat? In felt or leather?

It is a budget jacket, but I really like it and want it to work for me.

 

[Peacoat]

I would replace those buttons. If you do it yourself, use a backing button to ensure the buttons won't work loose. With leather, I would have a Taylor or seamstress do it. Ask then to use backing buttons. Problem solved.

 

[Cornelius]

At the very least, use some Emory Cloth to sand down the sharp edges on those plastic buttons to prevent any further damage to this jacket.

 

[Boyo]

I like your idea of stretching the button holes with a dowel, I would keep that up for awhile longer. Maybe a few small incremental increases in diameter. The tight button holes are certainly not uncommon and just require time and wear to loosen up.
Look on Etsy if you go down the path of changing the buttons there are many to choose from including vintage or perhaps even an NYPD branded style if you want to keep it "Authentic"
Great Leather is the place for doing the work, they have performed a button replacement for me in the past and was very economical and top quality work

https://www.greatleather.com/restore.php#sservices

 

[Fifty150]

Taylor jackets are reasonable quality for a massed produced retail item, made in Pakistan. I have several Taylor jackets, as well as the NYPD model, and I have no complaints. Their jackets are made for the uniform wear. They work for that. You can ride a motorcycle, direct traffic in inclement weather, and roll around on the concrete fighting a resisting suspect. The removable Thinsulate liners allow you to wear the jacket on warmer days when the insulation is not needed.

The hat, is from Bayly. Motorcycle helmets are typically Shoei. I have no idea where they get the equestrian helmets. The current color scheme is 2 shades of blue. There have been different variations over the years. Different people in power, have had different ideas, of what the uniform should look like.

 

[PeterRocco]

So I just acquired a Taylor's Leatherware NYPD jacket. Taylor's people were super helpful and responsive, really top notch customer service. And I like the jacket, a lot.

It is very heavy, slightly pebbled black cowhide, fairly stiff. Rib knit cuffs set inside the sleeves, generous bi-swing bellows, fits well (size chart on website was accurate) and feels like a suit of armor, in a good way.

Lapels button down, but can be unbuttoned so as to button the coat up all the way to the collar.

My only quibble is with the buttons. They do seem very sturdily fastened onto the jacket, which is a big relief - on most button up leather jackets I've had, the buttons were very weakly fastened to the leather. Not these. They stick out from the surface of the coat a bit on long stems, I guess to better accommodate the thickness of the leather. But they are a little flimsy, they have sharp edges on the back that have cut threads in two buttonholes, and so far I've had a tough time buttoning and unbuttoning them because the leather is so thick and stiff. Also they jingle like Christmas bells, which was fun until December 26 and then became slightly annoying.

I've sprayed the coat down with the water/stain repellent Taylor's sells on their website. I rubbed the area around each of the buttonholes with a damp rag dipped in petroleum based softener/conditioner and then put a dowel rod through each of the holes to try and open them up a bit (this was after the lapel buttons cut threads on their holes as I tried to unbutton them) but so far not much luck. What's a better way to break in the button holes?

I wonder if I should get the buttons replaced with something more substantial/less jingly. How wold the coat look with black leather football buttons, for instance? Or similar silver buttons, but more substantial? Any suggestions where to find quality replacement buttons?

Also not sure what sort of hat to wear with this coat. An old fashioned police hat would be the obvious choice but I don't want to. A flat cap, newsboy or ascot or snap brim hat? In felt or leather?

It is a budget jacket, but I really like it and want it to work for me.

Hi
Do you have a picture o the jacket? Did you buy it from Them direct?
I just bought a new old stock from a private person. Made in USA tag.

 

[Christoball]

I bought it from them direct. It is not American made but I am ok with that. I love the weight and thickness of the leather. It is not the same style as the one you posted: it is a double breasted coat reminiscent of a naval pea coat or officer’s deck coat.

EDIT: OK I should have got a smaller size. the more I wear it the bigger it seems to get: as the leather softens the shoulder seams hand further down past my shoulders and the cuffs drift closer to my knuckles. It is not stretching just softening. It is a size too big for me.

I don’t have a good pic of it. I have one of myself loitering in a convenience store aisle, which is horrible context for a pic!

Their size chart said a “large” fit suit sizes 42-44. I’m about a 5’ 7”, and suit jackets off the rack generally fit me if they are 42 or 44 “short.”

This jacket feels a bit big, but I am sure I couldn’t go down to a 38 or 40, which is TaylorLeatherware’s “medium.”

It fits more like an overcoat, I could probably squeeze a dress jacket or bulky sweater under it comfortably.

The sleeves break a little past my wrist, but well above my knuckles. Hem of jacket hangs slightly higher than my fingertips with my arms at my sides.
The Shoulder seams break a little bit outside the corner of my shoulders, maybe a quarter inch.
With my arms fully extended in front of me, the sleeves don’t ride up too far on my wrists and I can reach overhead without any impediment.

The hem of the jacket seems kind of big around and dress like, compared to how it fits people I’ve seen wearing it in pictures. OTOH it accommodates my belly without stressing the buttons!

The button down lapels are the most difficult to fasten and unfasten. I bet people who wore this jacket as a uniform item were constrained from ever buttoning them all the way up, and never did, but the jacket has buttons above the lapels/right under the collar so you can button it all the way up.

it is super stiff but already starting to flex and bend a bit more, and I expect the fit to improve a little as it breaks in.

I want a non-uniform hat to wear with this guy. I Don’t want a beanie or watch cap, don’t want a helmet or cop hat. Maybe a flat cap or snap brim, or what do you think?

 

[PeterRocco]

Hi
Thank You So Much for posting a picture of your jacket.
So much to talk about.
1- The Style is Very Nice. I like it. It's like a leather Peacoat like you said. Love the Silver buttons. Yes I can tell the button holes look tight. But should open up with use.
2- The Leather looks thick and high quality not cheep at all. I Love a Heavy thick leather. Like 3-4oz. You should be happy with the leather quality.
3- I think it fits you perfect. It's very hard to get the length and fit perfect. I understand if you call them they would adjust what you feel needs adjusting. But I think you are all Good.
Pakistan where it is made is like the Largest Maker of Tanned Leather. They still use chemicals that in USA can't use. And have high quality control. Taylor has Very High Standers when it comes to their leather jackets and will not except less.
4- As for a hat maybe a Newsboy Style hat. That's what I wear.
5- So now seeing your jacket I might have to order one.
Best
Peter

 

[Doctor Damage]

It's for winter/cold/foul weather wear for motorcyclists and horse riders so being able to fit warm layers underneath is essential. It appears you are wearing only a t-shirt underneath, which isn't fair. Try it on over a thick sweater or a synthetic fleece thingy and see how it looks.

 

[Christoball]

With the liner, It is toasty warm even over a thin T-shirt, and the leather seems beefy enough to handle the elements. I mostly see equestrian police wearing these coats.

It actually drapes a bit better without the liner. Which is a by product of the liner itself being substantial, thick and durable.

 

[PeterRocco]

I think you have a Great Jacket.
Best
Pete

 

[Christoball]

PeteRocco I like it. Taylor’s is having a 30% off sale if you want to pick one up yourself!

 

[PeterRocco]

Hi
Thank You for letting me know.
Best
Pete