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New Johnson Leather custom

PhilR

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
SF Bay Area CA
After pouring through MANY great posts here on FL, I took a simple thought of needing a new leather jacket and turned it into an awesome custom piece tailored to my measurements and specifications. I thought long and hard about Aero, but my need for a jacket in time for winter (two months) and also wanting to support a local business led me to Johnson Leather in San Francisco. Of course it helps that I live 30 minutes away from the store.

I showed up and browsed their great selection and tried on a few rack jackets. Those reinforced what I already knew - nothing off the rack ever fits me. I have a 44" chest and 33" waist which makes most jackets that fit my upper body look like tents on me. I already had an idea of what I wanted in mind and went through it with the tailor on site. I wanted a jacket based loosely on the horse hide Aero Hercules, with its longer length and a very fitted style. I also wanted a simpler look with only two pockets and no side straps. A few other details taken from posts I have read here on FL were used too. The guys at Johnson said they don't do nearly as much horse leather as they used to, but they happened to have a great hide exactly the color I wanted that was ready to go when I came in.

Extensive measurements were taken and I came back in a couple of weeks to try on the test fit mock-up jacket. A couple more fit modifications were made from that, and then the wait began. In a little over four weeks the jacket was ready. It looked amazing, really heavy and stiff, and I could tell the quality was there. Unfortunately the fit was not nailed out of the gate. It came out many inches larger around the waist and back. I was disappointed, but they gladly kept the jacket to be trimmed up. Another week and I went in for round two. Again another misfire, the waist fit perfectly but there was still too much leather in the back and the jacket had a five inch ripple down the middle of it. Again it was gladly received for one more round of tailoring. Third time was a charm, the fit was perfect. It could probably use another inch or so from the back, but with break in I'm sure it will look better. I can also add thicker sweaters underneath if necessary with the extra space.

The value of this jacket is what really amazed me. It blows my mind that high end clothing stores can sell jackets for thousands of dollars and they have a fraction of the quality and none of the fit of this great jacket. This jacket came in around 20% less than what Aero would have charged me for something similar. While I don't have a spare Areo handy to compare stitch to stitch and grain to grain quality, I'm really happy with this one and know I will have MANY years of great use from it. I also know that this is probably the start of a very expensive habit, and the Langlitz butterscotch goat is now on my short list.

The guys at Johnson are great to work with, however I know my experience would not have been quite as good if I didn't live close by. Shipping back & forth a few times to get the right fit would have been frustrating.

On to some photos. The shots of the jacket being worn were backlit, so I had to make some brightness adjustments to see details better. Unfortunately that took out all the color, but the closeup shots show the details of the color and grain much better. These were taken after about a week of break in. I've been wearing it as much as possible, and sitting on it at work to help loosen it up even faster. A rain session is next when the clouds come back.

Thanks to everyone here who has taken the time to post reviews and photos of their jackets! All of that information is gold and really helped me get to this point!


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Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I love seeing quality jackets that are not Aeros, for a change. That is a great looking item which I'd be proud to own. Can you tell us what it weighs?
 
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Chi-Town Co

Familiar Face
Messages
93
Location
Texas
Awesome looking jacket, color and the fit looks spot on. Didn't realize they did jackets in horsehide. Looks heavyweight with great grain. I've heard nothing but good things about Johnson Leathers. Somewhat surprised about all the miscues on fit. Lucky you were local.
 

apba1166

A-List Customer
Messages
372
Location
Philadelphia
Great jacket and story. I share your wonder. People will pay top dollars for a suit or a leather jacket from a dept. store and for half that, and a bit of delayed gratification and time, can have a custom-tailored piece made better out of better materials. It used to be the hand-made piece was far more expensive than the brand names, now it is often less. I like that jacket, and like the idea of you doing away w/the side belts and letting the tailor take care of the fit instead. -Mark
 

buler

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,380
Location
Wisconsin
Great jacket! I still love my Johnson jacket. They nailed the fit on mine perfectly on the 1st try.

B

To see a Highwayman style Johnson check this link JohnsonJacket
 
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Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,069
Location
London, UK
Reminds me a lot of the design of a cafe racer jacket I used to own (excepting mine had a mandarin collar, sleeve zips and the pockets were zipped). The vertical seams on either side of the zip create an interesting visual effect, lengthening the torso, I think.
 

PhilR

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
SF Bay Area CA
Thanks guys! Buler, your thread was a big help and ultimately what pointed me towards Johnson. I downloaded your photos to my phone and took them to the shop as an example of how I wanted the jacket to fit.

I'll get a weight on the jacket later today.

Chi Town - Alan at Johnson told me that they are having a harder and harder time getting good quality horse leather due to an upsurge in popularity with the big guys like Aero and Vanson. Most of his jackets nowadays are cow, but they have a great selection of cow hides to choose from. I just happened to luck out with them having enough good horse in stock, otherwise they would have had to source it out and add to the wait time.
 

Tony No-Toes

One of the Regulars
Messages
165
Location
San Diego, California
I also know that this is probably the start of a very expensive habit, and the Langlitz butterscotch goat is now on my short list. [/IMG]

Mine too....I've had a sample of that by my couch now for over a month. You'll definitely like it-heavy, beautiful shade, and something you'll likely not see anyone else wearing anytime soon.
 

captaincaveman1

A-List Customer
Messages
361
Location
--------------------------------
Great looking jacket. Interesting twist on some classic designs. Perfect fit, as expected. 44" chest and 33" waist. You a weight lifter? That's a big drop. Anyway, I also prefer jackets with a flattering v-cut. Unfortunately these are hard to find off the rack usually.
 

TheSnark

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Location
S. Arizona, US
Very nice, and well done with the fit! Johnson really does very good work and Alan is easy to work with. In my experience, they do have a tendency to oversize just a bit, possibly because people in the US have become accustomed to vanity sizes... and it's easier to tailor an initially oversized jacket to fit than starting from scratch for an initial undersize. The hide looks great, I'm sure you'll enjoy it for many years (as long as you manage to retain that waist measurement, anyway lol).
 

jack miranda

A-List Customer
Messages
382
Location
Up the hill from Ballard
Nice jacket, PhilR. Great fit, great color, superb details. Well done, to you and to Johnson. I had Johnson build me a Sears Hercules a few years ago from HH, the most supple HH I've ever seen/worn. It was a feature-for-feature remake of an original 40's vintage jacket that was too small for me. Johnson delivers the goods. And, yes, it is nice having a resource like that locally. Enjoy.
 

PhilR

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
SF Bay Area CA
The jacket weighs 5.5lb / 2.5kg

I inherited my father's barrel chest and have been consistent in the gym for over 20 years. Great for looking fit, not so great for getting nice clothes that actually fit.

Please don't let my sizing experience with Johnson turn anyone away from giving them a shot. I have a feeling that the fitting issues with this jacket were just one of those rare occurrences that happen now and then to everyone. Ultimately they wanted me to be happy with the jacket and gladly did whatever necessary to make that happen.

If you aren't attached to a bigger brand name and want a great jacket, definitely put Johnson on your short list. You will get your jacket much sooner and definitely pay less than what some of the bigger guys charge. I also appreciated supporting my local economy at the same time!
 

regius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,299
Location
New York
Johnson Leather Terminator 2 repro with fur collar, Horween lightweight horse. The horse is reminiscent of Lost Worlds but BETTER!! Not as oily and thick as FQHH but very dense and slightly softer than LW. Just a better quality HH than LW. Stitchings are perfect. Cord pockets.
 

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