New hat stretcher (& advice)

[davidraphael]

I'm really quite pleased with my new hat stretcher. I've seen one of this type with a little measuring guide attached. The stretch range in size 56-61.

It's German, no idea how old - 50's/60s? Maybe newer? It looks like it has never been used. The company that made it - Riefenstahl & Co. Hutformen u. Zubehör - is still in business making hat forms/blocks and accessories.

It's is currently trying to stretch a 1950s/60s homburg to my size. I hope I did it right: I placed the stretcher inside the hat so that it was snug, applied some steam (but not lots and lots) to the outside of the hat/crown, and then tightened so that the stretcher was about a third to half size bigger that the hat. I will leave it for a couple of days and see what happens. Advice gratefully received.

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[Chepstow]

Nice Hat stretcher David
The problem is that you can only stretch sweat band area.
stretched too far it extends to the area of ​​the strip to the outside and is visible in the felt.
The hat shape and size is not dilated.

But to keep hats in shape or size up to a maximum of one wide works well.

this is my Hat stretcher extends the entire range sweat band and fur

 

[davidraphael]

Ah! so you won that hat stretcher. I watched that on Ebay a couple of weeks ago.
well done!

 

[Chepstow]

Yes David i won the hat stretcher
is not so easy to get such a beautiful part at a reasonable price

 

[HatsEnough]

The thing I caution about stretching (if an older hat) the leather sweat should be dosed with some sort of preservative first. Neatsfoot, lexol, mink oil... whatever is your favorite (always being sure not to get it on the threads holding the sweat to the hat). I always think it is a good idea to oil it up so it has some give, or at least more than it would if it was just a dry, old hunk of leather.

It is a bit dangerous to stick a stretcher in a vintage hat and just start cranking as you may rip an old leather sweat. Do it in small stages. And sometimes, no matter what you do, a leather sweat will rip in a vintage hat you are stretching. The only possible way to prevent a sweat tear is to cut the sewing where it meets itself in the back of the hat. That will at least give it a lot of room to expand without putting undue pressure on the sweatband itself.

Some guys hate to have the sweat stitches broken where it meets itself in back, though, which is understandable. That is a decision you just have to make.

Also, sometimes you'll stretch a hat and get a full size. You'll put it on and it'll fit great. Then you'll put it away and when you try it the next time its tight again. Yep, is shrank back a little. So, often you'll have to stretch it a couple of times before it begins to stay at the bigger size.

You just have to be patient... something I am horrible at, by the way.

 

[davidraphael]

You just have to be patient... something I am horrible at, by the way.

me too. So far I'm not having much luck: I've tried stretching now for the best part of 3 days. I just tried the hat on and nothing - it has made no difference at all, even though, according to the 'tape measure' I've taken it to a size bigger.
I must admit, I haven't oiled the sweat band. I was hoping steam would be enough....

I guess I'll steam and try again.... [huh]


It's kind of annoying. The hat has a size 58 label (normally my size), but it feels smaller than my 57s! The previous owner had obviously attempted to shrink it, though - when I got it it had cork and foam behind the sweat.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

What I find that helps is if you wet the back side of the sweatband with warm water thorghly.

 

[gtdean48]

Always steam around the base of the crown then expand the stretcher. The heat will re-activate the stiffener in the felt that will help hold the stretching better. Don't let heat get to the sweatband because it will have bad effects. Remember too that as moisture dries out of leather, it takes natural oils with it & will cause the leather to contract. I use Lexol conditioner wipes to restore those oils.

 

[Chepstow]

yes your right gtdean
after steaming and stretching the Hat must dry with the Hat stretcher inside.
This should work

 

[davidraphael]

So far, I have tried stretching my hat for 3 or 4 days, only using steam on the base of the crown, no leather conditioner.
I tried re-steaming and increasing in small increments every day.

The hat label is 58, but by this morning the stretcher claims to have taken the hat slightly over a 59...

BUT when I try the hat on it is no different than it was before I started stretching - it's still just as tight on the front and back!!.. [huh]


Any advice?

Do I need to do it for longer? Do you think it's ok to continue without leather conditioner or is the conditioner crucial?

Does anyone know how to shrink heads slightly?

 

[job]

I would try some conditioner and keep with it. Since you must be stretching it 2 sizes larger I would stretch it slowly over a few days.

 

[davidraphael]

Ok I will try some leather conditioner. I found some in Germany called 'Poliboy'. Maybe I'll try that.
They seem to have spray, liquid and wipes

http://www.poliboy.de/produktuebersicht/leder.html

 

[Chepstow]

i think the sweatband is not flexible enough to stretch it two sizes.
It will be broken.
what was it for a brand

Size right or wrong

plug your Hutstretcher into the hat and turn up in so far as he sits well without falling.
Take him out and measured the extent of the dan Stretchers.
Much calibration does not specify the size hat or the Stretcher.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I hate to say it but there is no way you are goin gto get your hat to stretch two sizes with just a stretcher. You need to have the hat rebuilt. It will need a new ribbon, a new sweat, & the crown will have more taper to it.

 

[CircuitRider]

Very nice!

 

[Chepstow]

I hate to say it but there is no way you are goin gto get your hat to stretch two sizes with just a stretcher. You need to have the hat rebuilt. It will need a new ribbon, a new sweat, & the crown will have more taper to it.

That is of course the best way Bruce

 

[davidraphael]

I certainly don't want to stretch it (50's/60s Peschel) two sizes - the problem is that no matter what I did so far the hat didn't seem to stretch at all. It feels as tight as it was before I tried stretching.

I only need the hat to be slightly longer so that it's not tight at the front and back - I think we're talking millimetres - just a little bit

Today I will treat the sweatband with Poliboy leder intensiv pflege.

Then I will put the hat stretcher in again and tighten it a couple of turns and see what happens. If, after 2 or 3 days, there is still no difference I might cut the threads that hold the sweat band together.

 

[job]

Good luck.

 

[davidraphael]

I've now treated the leather. I will let it dry and then re-condition again tomorrow (my thinking is that the leather in this hat hasn't been treated 40-50 years so it could do with a couple of treatments before I try for another stretch).

 

[Chepstow]

Good luck David I hope your work will be successful