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New Custom Jacket from Johnson Leathers

achee

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
United States
Hello all,

I recently purchased a new custom leather jacket from Johnson Leathers in San Francisco and I would like to share my experiences. I've purchased jackets now from Himel leather, Aero, and now Johnson so I've had experience with working with each of these places. Each has their pros and cons and I've been very impressed with what I got from Johnson. First, here's the pics of my new jacket.

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I live in San Francisco and I'd heard of Johnson Leathers. But had I simply looked at their website and their store front, I would have been very hesitant about ordering from them. I read a lot of positive reviews on this board so I thought I'd go check them out. I went into their store a little while back and Alan wasn't there so I got to talking with Johnson the owner. Most people deal with Alan. He's a great guy to deal with and is much better with customer relations than Johnson. But as it turns out, Johnson and I had similar backgrounds (We come from the same area and I do leather work on the side) so he was very accommodating with me and showed me around his store and his factory. I ended up spending three hours there just chatting.

I wasn't planning on buying anything and I didn't have anything specific in mind but I saw a jacket on the rack that had a pretty cool vintage kind of design. I decided what the heck and went for it. The jacket I ended up ordering was basically the jacket in the picture but the original had a regular collar and no button tab at the throat. Johnson measured me and we talked about how I wanted the jacket to fit. I wanted the jacket to fit trimmer than the model I tried on. I also told him that I wanted the shawl collar. He wasn't sure how good it would look but told me that he would do a mockup of it in a cheap piece of leather so I can try it. I chose the overdye CXL leather that they had there and he had some leftover Japanese wool plaid from a previous job that I chose for the liner. It's interesting and not commonly mentioned here but they also have deadstock Talon zippers and real horn buttons that you can use if you so choose (cost considerations of course).

Fast forward a few weeks and I have my new jacket. I went in for a fitting where they completed most of the shell of the jacket with the mock-up collar. I tried on the jacket and we made a few adjustments including adding the tab button collar closure. All in all, I am very pleased with the outcome.

As I mentioned above, I've ordered jackets from Himel, Aero, and now Johnson. I think of all of the jackets, this is the one that I'm happiest with.

Himel makes the most vintage correct jackets of the lot. I have the button up Heron from him. The construction techniques are vintage correct. The problem is that because of this, there are some modern conveniences that you give up. The jacket basically cannot be re-lined. The button holes are sewn through the leather and the liner making it basically impossible to change the liner. Also, other than length, there really isn't anything you can change fit wise.

Aero makes nice jackets. I had a board racer made with a single piece back and a D-Pocket put in. The work was very nice on that jacket. The thing that Aero lacks is the ability to make a truly custom jacket (in terms of fit). There are options that one can change and one can change some sizing details like length. But sizing changes that affect the pattern cannot be made (like making the shoulders narrower or wider).

Johnson is (of the three), the truly custom jacket maker. You can get any of their designs modified any way you want or just have them make up a design for you (based on a picture or whatever). They can make pretty much any design. The drawback with Johnson is that they don't have as cool a leather selection (in my opinion) as the first two. I really dig veg tan horse hide and Himel has the Shinki stuff and Aero has the Vicenza leather. Johnson has some nice leathers but they don't have those specific types of veg-tan horse hide. The other thing with Johnson is that their stock designs (at least the ones they display) aren't very nice. You really have to know exactly what you're looking for if you go with them. If you're not local, they can make cloth mockup jackets for you to try on for fit so the jacket is truly custom.

The best part is that of the three, Johnson is the most reasonable in price. Himel is by far the most expensive with Aero in the middle. Even with a full custom jacket, Johnson is still considerably cheaper than Aero.

Anyways, sorry for the long post. Just wanted to share my experience with folks here.

Andrew
 
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BJC88

New in Town
Messages
43
Location
Nope.
Very nice, well-rounded review. I am working with Alan on a jacket, and I am supposed to receive the cloth mockup tomorrow evening.

Also, the jacket looks great!
 
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nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
Really nice. I had no idea about a Johnson. I thought Alan's last name was Johnson! Also talked to Craig a few times in there. I was up in the city the other day, and I plugged the coordinates in on my phone for the walking direction app. About three or four miles in it dawned on me to check the store hours, and I think it was a Monday and they were closed. I would have liked to have a peek in the window (they once had a killer dark green ladie's Perfecto style up there), but although I made it to Polk St, I flat out got lost at that point and turned around.
 

pawineguy

One Too Many
Messages
1,974
Location
Bucks County, PA
Nice jacket and review. It's a bit of a leap of faith to put a shawl collar on another design but it really came out beautifully. Congratulations.
 

bbq

Familiar Face
Messages
84
Location
Rocky Coast of Maine
Great looking and fitting jacket. Beautiful leather and lining. Very complete and specific review. I'm thinking more and more about Johnson for my next jacket.
 

thor

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,008
Location
NYC, NY
Cool jacket! Looks a bit like a G-8 "Raider"' jacket with afew design tweeks. Good fit. Congrats!
 

Worf

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,207
Location
Troy, New York, USA
Nice jacket and great review. I love the fit, finish and lining, but I'm not a big pocket guy. Yours came out spectacular though.

Worf
 
Messages
16,842
Just want to add that I am completely in love with this type of leather. Don't know what it is, I've only seen from JL jackets, but it's absolutely beautiful and IMO just the perfect type of leather a black leather jacket should be made of.
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
Just want to add that I am completely in love with this type of leather. Don't know what it is, I've only seen from JL jackets, but it's absolutely beautiful and IMO just the perfect type of leather a black leather jacket should be made of.

Same leather as the OPs. Brilliant.
 

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achee

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
United States
Nice jacket and review. It's a bit of a leap of faith to put a shawl collar on another design but it really came out beautifully. Congratulations.

The nice thing about the way they work is that it's not really a risk trying something like this out. They used a cheap piece of leather to mock up the collar on the jacket and had me try it on. If I didn't like it, they would have just put on the regular collar. In this sense, getting a custom jacket really is a nice way to go.

Andrew
 

Vespizzare

A-List Customer
Messages
445
Location
Santa Monica, CA
JL is the greatest. I like Aero jackets fine, but the custom fitting and design at JL put them in a different category entirely.

P.S. I too thought it was Alan "Johnson." Live and learn.
 

achee

New in Town
Messages
25
Location
United States
Yeah, Alan is kinda like the front man of the operation (I think he's a partner as well). He's the one that's really good with customer relations and just an all around good guy to talk to. Johnson's a nice guy but customer interaction's not really his strength.

When I found out about their prices I was actually quite surprised when you compare what they have to offer with what else is out there. And it's made right here in San Francisco!

Andrew
 

frussell

One Too Many
Messages
1,409
Location
California Desert
I was in San Francisco last week for work, and found out I was staying about a block away from the shop, so I emailed ahead of time to see if Alan could fit me while I was in town. I'm home now, waiting for the mockup jacket to come in a few weeks. Alan couldn't have been nicer, and I'm looking forward to the jacket big time. I ended up getting a variation of the M200-L, with no zip sleeves, and a lightweight lining, in some veg-tanned lightweight horsehide he had at the time. If this works out, I'll be set, as it doesn't really get cold here enough for a collection of jackets. I like the fit jacket idea a lot, should make for a better fit than my across-the-sea-and-time-zone process with Aero. Small shop, but great people, and lots of cool jackets to gawk at, which is unusual where I live. Frank.
 

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