GriffDeLaGriff
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And btw, beautiful jacket. I love the collar. And the fit is perfect for a jacket that can actually be used in modern times.
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New Aero Premium Slim Fit 1930's Half Belt
- Thread starter Cooperson
- Start date
As a man who once relinquished a JC Ventura for being slightly too short, I think - and have assumed - that Cooperson, quite like myself, is not one for 'making do'. Rather, I think he would prefer my honest 2 bob's worth, even if the verdict isn't good news. But anyway, my opinion is only an opinion, and I think a big boy like Cooperson can handle that. I certainly am not touting my ramblings as gospel! As you have astutely pointed out Rudie his preferences are quite likely not the same as mine.
Length of it aside, I should mention that the colour is outstanding
Cooperson
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Thanks for all input chaps, much appreciated. Also, great to see a good spirited debate on the subjective topic of jacket length.
schitzo - you know you haven't offended or spoiled things for me in any way, I am a big boy and I appreciate your opinions.
Regarding the collar shape, I personally think it's the business, it's like finding a vintage jacket in mint unworn condition!
Although the general consensus is that the length of this jacket looks fine, schitzo does raise a valid point that the Aero 1930's half belt is indeed meant to be a short style jacket. As far as I am aware, this new model is no different in that regard and the standard back length for a 40" jacket is in the region of 24", which I'm sure is in the same ball park as the original pattern. So, what you're seeing on me is what essentially should be a short style jacket but with added length, which I know is nothing unusual as many have done it before. I think my main concern is that adding a bit of length is fine, up to a point, but then it can reach a tipping point where it changes the overall look and character of the style. Regarding the actual order, it was to be 25" with the option to 1/4" more but not less.
Anyway, in the midst of all this, I have just received an email from Denny saying he has seen my concerns on the forum and he has offered to send me an identical jacket, in the standard 24" length for me to try on, with the option of an exchange if I prefer it. Although this will be 1 3/4" shorter than the one you see me wearing, I don't think I will settle until I have at least given it go. Sods law if one is a tad short and the other a tad long, then it'll be decision time! By the way, a big thank you to Ken, Denny, Rachel and all at Aero for going the extra mile, it's the sort of service that keeps customers!
I will of course post some pics for your valued opinions if any of you feel up for it
schitzo - you know you haven't offended or spoiled things for me in any way, I am a big boy and I appreciate your opinions.
Regarding the collar shape, I personally think it's the business, it's like finding a vintage jacket in mint unworn condition!
Although the general consensus is that the length of this jacket looks fine, schitzo does raise a valid point that the Aero 1930's half belt is indeed meant to be a short style jacket. As far as I am aware, this new model is no different in that regard and the standard back length for a 40" jacket is in the region of 24", which I'm sure is in the same ball park as the original pattern. So, what you're seeing on me is what essentially should be a short style jacket but with added length, which I know is nothing unusual as many have done it before. I think my main concern is that adding a bit of length is fine, up to a point, but then it can reach a tipping point where it changes the overall look and character of the style. Regarding the actual order, it was to be 25" with the option to 1/4" more but not less.
Anyway, in the midst of all this, I have just received an email from Denny saying he has seen my concerns on the forum and he has offered to send me an identical jacket, in the standard 24" length for me to try on, with the option of an exchange if I prefer it. Although this will be 1 3/4" shorter than the one you see me wearing, I don't think I will settle until I have at least given it go. Sods law if one is a tad short and the other a tad long, then it'll be decision time! By the way, a big thank you to Ken, Denny, Rachel and all at Aero for going the extra mile, it's the sort of service that keeps customers!
I will of course post some pics for your valued opinions if any of you feel up for it
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GriffDeLaGriff
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Great news!
But when trying them out, also think about using the jacket and not just posing for pics - its not the same.
I also have to say that "standard length" means like in the military, you are handed out the same stuff as everyone ealse in your general size. Look at the old pilot photos on this board - they all fit different. We have shorter or longer torso. I always have to treasure hunt for the short shirts and t-shirts since my torso is slightly shorter then avarege so I never think twice about trying to get a jacket to fit me insted of buying one that fits the median of that size. (someone else).
But when trying them out, also think about using the jacket and not just posing for pics - its not the same.
I also have to say that "standard length" means like in the military, you are handed out the same stuff as everyone ealse in your general size. Look at the old pilot photos on this board - they all fit different. We have shorter or longer torso. I always have to treasure hunt for the short shirts and t-shirts since my torso is slightly shorter then avarege so I never think twice about trying to get a jacket to fit me insted of buying one that fits the median of that size. (someone else).
I will of course post some pics for your valued opinions if any of you feel up for it
Do it! This will be interesting
Just pretend it's from Lost Worlds. Instead of it being a nuisance you'll feel manly.
Looking at the jacket again, I agree the collar is nice. But if I were to be as finicky as some I'd say it was a little short at the back and the two inch drop at the front seems a little too pronounced. Maybe it could be a little shorter in front and a little longer at the back.
Cooperson
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Ha ha, personal preference is so diverse isn't it?
Seb, the slope from front to back is what really sold me on the 1930's pattern, it just screams vintage to me, I love it. Horses for courses I suppose, if you'll pardon the pun
Brettafett
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+ 1
Love the vintage style collar.
Cooperson, you are 5'11, what do you weigh if I may...? I seem to be pretty close to your build and am debating between one of these and the Sheene, I like them both. But, having never had a civvi style before, I am finding it tricky...
Can you post some pics zipped up?
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Cooperson:
From the perspective of the "vertically challenged," my assessment ......... on final reflection, the 25 1/4 will provide a more practical jacket for now and the future. If you intend this jacket to weather the whimsy of haute couture; the more utilitarian fit shall always prevail. IMHO.
BTW: it looks excellent.
From the perspective of the "vertically challenged," my assessment ......... on final reflection, the 25 1/4 will provide a more practical jacket for now and the future. If you intend this jacket to weather the whimsy of haute couture; the more utilitarian fit shall always prevail. IMHO.
BTW: it looks excellent.
Cooperson
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Sorry for the late reply, had to find somewhere to weigh myself. I never bother normally, just go by my belt - when it creeps up a notch I just stop eating! Anyway, around 185lbs or 84kgs but its all muscle
Will take some zipped up when the other jacket arrives, might be here tomorrow!
Cooperson
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Sorry I missed this, you would really need to email Aero for exact pattern details. However, I would guess the main difference is that the Plainsman is more akin to the long half belt, whereas the The Premium 1930's is a short style, like the original Aero 1930's half belt.
Cooperson
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Well the shorter, standard length jacket arrived today - great service! As with the longer jacket, it looks to be cut from the same batch of stunning dark brown skins and apart from the shorter back length, is identical in every way. How come the specs are identical? well this was cut first to the standard length, in error, so another had to be made to the requested length. Made by a machinist with the initials R.S.M, the stitch work is perfect and the collar is a work of art IMO.
This back length measures 24 1/4" so is 1 1/2" shorter that the first jacket.
Well here are the fit pics! To be honest, I'm at a bit of a loss as to which to go for as they are both just things of beauty. There are pros and cons with both I suppose. If I had motor bike I'd go for the longer version to cover my back, but for street wear it's nice to be able to put your hands in your pockets, without the front of the jacket being in the way. If only I had the money I'd keep them both, unfortunately my wife is standing over me while I type this :-(
As before, I'd appreciate your thoughts gents this is a tough one!
It is good to be able to put your hands in your pockets.
This back length measures 24 1/4" so is 1 1/2" shorter that the first jacket.
Well here are the fit pics! To be honest, I'm at a bit of a loss as to which to go for as they are both just things of beauty. There are pros and cons with both I suppose. If I had motor bike I'd go for the longer version to cover my back, but for street wear it's nice to be able to put your hands in your pockets, without the front of the jacket being in the way. If only I had the money I'd keep them both, unfortunately my wife is standing over me while I type this :-(
As before, I'd appreciate your thoughts gents this is a tough one!
It is good to be able to put your hands in your pockets.
Edward
Bartender
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Where oes this one fit into the line-up? Is this to replace the long-running SlimFit 1930s Halfbelt, or is the "Premium" version to be made from the new Italian Horse? Some of the descriptions sound a bit like the (in)famous "Japanese Fit". I did try on one of these in a size 44, actually, at the factory on Monday just past; it happened to be cut for a longer-armed and torsoed person than me, but otherwise I couldn't feel any difference between that and the regular 30s HB. The new leather is gorgeous, though. (I should have asked them, but I was more preoccupied with the details of the new jacket I was ordering. ).
I'd give Insurrection more credit than that... While it doesn't seem like a significant change, I'd expect that it involved quite a lot of fiddling around with the pattern to get it just right - slimmer armholes will have a knock-on on the body panels and such. Probably too much additional work for a one-of, as distinct from a new model.
As noted above, it's half an inch - inevitable when dealing with a material like leather. Even a lighter hide like goatskin raises these issues once you put a few folds in it.
lol
Agreed for the thirties jackets. Not sure if the 50s pattern is the same? Must look at my Bootlegger. It's a necessity, I think, of the slimness of the pattern, as most folks tend to be bigger out the belly than the back - stops the jaqcket from riding up and being shorter at the front, makes it look the same all the way around, if I remember the explanation correctly.
Both look great. Theres' so little in it... The shorter, standard length is my personal preference, but the longer one also looks very good to me. As has been noted by others above, either length is correct for a civilian jacket of the period (if that matters to you), so a lot will come down to what you personally prefer. Why exactly did you want to go longer to begin with? Did you try on the standard model and find it too short?
Someting I'd also think about is whether this will be your only jacket (I don't kno hat else you do or do not have). Would it be nice to have another little variation that differentiates it from the others, or does it bother you enough that you would find yourself not wearing it?
). I'd give Insurrection more credit than that... While it doesn't seem like a significant change, I'd expect that it involved quite a lot of fiddling around with the pattern to get it just right - slimmer armholes will have a knock-on on the body panels and such. Probably too much additional work for a one-of, as distinct from a new model.
As noted above, it's half an inch - inevitable when dealing with a material like leather. Even a lighter hide like goatskin raises these issues once you put a few folds in it.
Just pretend it's from Lost Worlds. Instead of it being a nuisance you'll feel manly.
lol
Agreed for the thirties jackets. Not sure if the 50s pattern is the same? Must look at my Bootlegger. It's a necessity, I think, of the slimness of the pattern, as most folks tend to be bigger out the belly than the back - stops the jaqcket from riding up and being shorter at the front, makes it look the same all the way around, if I remember the explanation correctly.
Both look great. Theres' so little in it... The shorter, standard length is my personal preference, but the longer one also looks very good to me. As has been noted by others above, either length is correct for a civilian jacket of the period (if that matters to you), so a lot will come down to what you personally prefer. Why exactly did you want to go longer to begin with? Did you try on the standard model and find it too short?
Someting I'd also think about is whether this will be your only jacket (I don't kno hat else you do or do not have). Would it be nice to have another little variation that differentiates it from the others, or does it bother you enough that you would find yourself not wearing it?
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I think the first one looks nicer...and proportioned much better especially with the longer back length.
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