New Aero Half Belt Fit Jacket

[kronos77]

After my last fit jacket failure, I spent a month or so sulking-I really wanted that Sheene.. Finally, I picked myself up off the floor and got a fit jacket for a 1930's half belt. The jacket shown is a sunburst, which has the same 1930's cut.

I am not sure about the length of the body or sleeves. The sleeves seem ok normally, only feeling too long when I pull the sleeve down intentionally. I was told they shrink .5 inches so I am uncertain what to do.

The body length is interesting. I was thinking one inch off the body. I feel it might necessary, more so in the back than the front as the jacket dips a bit in the front--about 1.25 inches. I originally wanted to get the front an back equal length but I think it might end up too short in the front.

The big question is what to do about the body width. Leave it or take it down one size--about an inch on each side. When I loosen the straps I have about 2 inches of leather on each side. When I tighten them, this goes down to one inch. I like the trim fit of the cafe racer and would like to get something resembling that, if possible.

Carrie suggested that I don't taper it as it could end up "corseted at the hem", which I think means squeezing me around the hips to the point where I can't move. Possibly, but I would like to hear what people think. I am thinking if the jacket were a touch shorter, the hem wouldn't end up as tight as it would be higher off my hips. Not sure and this is a tough one for me.

Other than that, there is the rally big question: Horse or Steer. Horse is a great conversation piece, but everything else I have heard points me to steer, especially since I am getting a black jacket.

Other than that, any comments or suggestions, positive or negative?...size down, change styles, give up on looking good and wear a plastic bag...I don't care, all suggestions welcome.

 

[Capesofwrath]

IMO it’s too long and the sleeves are too. I think you may have point about the hem being higher and so not so tight if it’s tapered a bit there. I think those jackets are meant to be bum freezers. Seems a bit big on the shoulders too unless that’s your deltoids sticking out.

Thing is it will mould itself to you and fit better after a little while anyway.

 

[ButteMT61]

Hard to say with the pics as they're dark. I tend to agree with @Capesofwrath, but maybe some lighter pics?

 

[jacketjunkie]

Whatever you do about the length, do not taper or size down, this fits great in the body, any Trimmer and you look like a leather sausage.

 

[Carlos840]

To me the body width is ok, i would however remove 1" length in body and sleeves.
Have you tried sitting down with the jacket closed? Pretty sure it will ride like crazy and hit you in the chin with that length!
Also, sleeves will shortn a bit with creasing, but not very much, and IMO these are just too long.

 

[Benproof]

Definitely no tapering opinion here! If you do, you'll look like Mary Queen of Scots.

The 1930's style art deco style is rather arresting. Complex backs have always had as much appeal for me as complex facial hair. But this one looks really great.

Have you tried the fit with layering, to see what difference it makes, before you commit to a permanent solution?

For your waist line, it looks like you could go down a size, and avoid the tapering problems; avoid the length problems and correct the balance between the shoulder width and the hem width.

Personally I like the length as you've shown: if you check, it falls just above the jean pockets. If you ever had to lean forward in a sports motorcycle position, any higher, the hem line would be riding up to belly button level. It's fine as it is, but maybe you would risk looking too sharp.

 

[Benproof]

...and going down a size, maybe avoid the long sleeve problems if you are not a motorcycle rider...

 

[Sloan1874]

Looks as though the shoulders are sliding off you. Sleeves need an inch or so off and about an inch and a bit off the body. I'd leave the width alone. As above, perhaps a size down would help.

 

[kronos77]

Sorry for the bad pictures but it is snowy and very grey here and that was the most light I could get in the whole house.

sloan1874 and capesofwrath: It is tough to tell from the pictures but the shoulder seams are actually where they should be, for the most part. Not hanging off the shoulders but on the line where the shoulder turns down to the arm. I'll have someone check again, but I think that may just be the way my shoulders angle that gives that appearance. Not sure.

benproof: Are you talking about the bottom hem or the waist? The straps are tight in that picture and I was thinking of getting the taper partly to avoid having to tighten the straps. You can see in the second picture the body width with the loose straps. And I swore off motorcycles for ever and ever, so no worries about riding positions.

I thought of a size down but as jacketjunkie said, it could sausage me. At least that is my fear.

 

[nick123]

I think it's about as tight as you want it. How does it look from the side?

Btw, the Sunburst looks great on you. It's not perfection (as you said, shorter perhaps-esp for the 30s HB) but I'd say it's a very good fit. For the Sunburst I'd be happy there.

 

[Benproof]

Bottom hem.

Check the last image for the height/drop: the ratio of the upper belt area to the lower belt area cannot be reduced. You cannot shorten the jacket without destroying the ratio given by the belt dividing the back panel (the 5 / 8 th's principle).

Width wise:

The jacket shape is boxy; as a result, you need to have a relaxed boxy look; not a crumpled boxy look, cinched up and strapped up. The design of the back panels, do not lend the jacket easily to tapering. I think this is what Carrie is saying more plainly to you: yes, tapering might improve the front, and avoid the straight sausage appearance when zipped.

The straps - tightened or loosened - for most of us, fit better at one position and is compromised at the other. I prefer mine to fit best at the loose position; when cinched, it should still fit, without layers.

The sizing:

If you down size, the shoulder placement hangs the jacket better from the top, and the flow of the jacket falls in place, with less stress from having to tighten up the belt cinches/straps as you have done here. I think Sloan1874 is alluding to this point. If you correct the shoulder fit, the rest of the jacket hangs in flow from there. If the shoulders are too large, the sleeve length follows. Then you would end up doing all kinds of extreme alterations, just to get the jacket back into shape.

With box jackets (I have a few: Route 66; Sam Walker, Furygan, unbranded) I personally prefer a more relaxed drop. Not tightening the straps also gives a more relaxed look. I don't find box jackets with half belts look good when tailored to taper, and trying to make it too close fitting like a cafe racer isn't going to work (That is why you need more than 1 jacket ). I checked image 2 again and from the front, yes the arrowed front extends the appearance of its length. Possibly downsizing will reduce this problem.

Overall, the risk of tapering, is the whole appearance from the back would look stressed and overworked, and still out of balance whereas it might minimally improve the front. If you downsize and accept that wearing your jacket open and unzipped, it will have the most free and natural flow and look with the cinches relaxed.

Take Carrie's advice

 

[kronos77]

And thank you everyone for the help.

Nick123: The Sunburst is just the fit jacket. I would get the regular 30s HB. I appreciate the back design of the Sunburst, but it is not me at all. While i admire them on others, I like plain for myself, not patterns. I won't even wear socks with a pattern or print. I was even intending to remove the top yoke and just have a plain half belt back, like the bootlegger. Stunning design but I will pass.

Benproof: That's some interesting design information there. I assumed Aero might be able to adjust the position of the half belt to get the right ratio. Maybe not. There are some other half belts, the original hercules I think being one, that have the belt in different positions.

About the shoulders. As I said, the shoulder seams really aren't hanging over. They sit right on the shoulder's edge. I just had two people check them for me so the motion of reaching across to feel the shoulder wouldn't distort things. Going down would add .25 to each side. Not much, and that is probably bearable, but I fear it would be close to squeezing. I think someone here once said you can't have shoulders that are too tight.

Since you seem pretty knowledgable about design Benproof, can you explain what about the back panels doesn't lend itself to tapering? Are you referring to the Sunburst panels specifically or HBs in general?

Thanks again and I will reread these posts and consider everything carefully.

 

[kronos77]

Here is a side shot.

 

[Grayland]

I know this doesn't help you regarding fit, but damn that two tone is nice!

 

[ProteinNerd]

What happened with your last fit jacket to make it a failure?

 

[pauleway]

I think it could be about 1" shorter in the sleeves and body length, but after seeing the side view, it looks pretty good to me. Is that the jacket you are buying, or a size fit jacket from Thurston Bros.? If they give you a good price on that specific jacket, I would go for it, it does look nice, and it mold a little to your body with wear!

 

[kronos77]

Protein Nerd: The Cafe racer was huge in the back and shoulders. I would have had to size down two sizes and then I doubt the waist would have fit. I always considered myself broad shouldered for my height, with a 7 inch drop chest to waist, but I suppose the cafe racer is cut for a broad shouldered taller person for whom a 7 inch drop is normal. Or maybe I just plain old didn't fit it. Who knows.

pauleway: No, that is just the fit jacket. I would be after a plain 30's HB in black horse or steer.

Grayland: We have very different tastes. I have to look hard past the two tone to see the beauty of the jacket. Never liked two tone leather. To each his own. Some people have the aura to pull it off.

 

[ton312]

I think the fit is good. Looks a tad wide at the shoulders but not by much and not at all from the side shot. Length of the body looks good. Sleeve is about 1/2" longer than I'd prefer. The real question is how do you feel wearing it? If it feels right a couple small tweaks aren't worrisome. I added 2" plus to my order in body and sleeve...sweated that sucka out 'til I popped it out of the box and put it on! Long freak'n 3 months! I wouldn't taper the jacket. It's not native to the style and it overrides the half belts purpose I'd think.

 

[Insomnia]

The fit is fine. 0.5' off on sleeves. if you size down you will not be a able to raise your arms or layer more than a t-shirt. A sweater will make a remarkable difference, try it with the fit jacket. If you still can tighten the straps with a sweater than consider the Premier Fit 1930 HB which should be a half size smaller imo.

But don't worry to much your jacket will mould to you body with some wear. You can speed this up with a walk in the rain or take a shower in the jacket and wear it till its dry.

Most of us would be lucky with such a great fit.

 

[Benproof]

"Benproof: That's some interesting design information there. I assumed Aero might be able to adjust the position of the half belt to get the right ratio. Maybe not. There are some other half belts, the original hercules I think being one, that have the belt in different positions.

About the shoulders. As I said, the shoulder seams really aren't hanging over. They sit right on the shoulder's edge. I just had two people check them for me so the motion of reaching across to feel the shoulder wouldn't distort things. Going down would add .25 to each side. Not much, and that is probably bearable, but I fear it would be close to squeezing. I think someone here once said you can't have shoulders that are too tight."

I think so. Have a look closely:

At first glance, the fit looks very good. Now study the lower 3/8th's on the rear below the half-belt where the jacket rucks up at the rear because of the ill fit. When standing, this is the only position where the jacket's lines will fall into place: the fit here simply doesn't. I worry that you would end up having to alter here and there ... the sleeves...the waist taper...the half belt...the length. You would end up reconstructing a whole new custom jacket with a lot of work from a template which just doesn't fit your body.

So long as you are not troubled by such detail, the overall fit is pretty fine. I still think that down sizing might be worth trying, since the leather will stretch around your contour, whereas if it is too baggy at the shoulders, it will always remain baggy around the shoulders.

"Since you seem pretty knowledgable about design Benproof, can you explain what about the back panels doesn't lend itself to tapering? Are you referring to the Sunburst panels specifically or HBs in general?"

Haha. I only know because I have had way more sizing disasters than you

I own the Aero FQHH Ace cafe racer 1950's half-belt which I love. I had exactly the same problem you describe, when I tried on several Aero jackets. Something was wrong with somewhere, and chopping and changing, corrected one problem in the shoulders, introduced another somewhere else. I gave up and had a custom made Aero with my dimensions.

I'm referring to the sunburst specifically: you won't have tapering issues with half-belts in general.

Have a look at the image again:

The most lateral sunburst lines, do not terminate at the shoulder peaks: this would be too much of a feat of design. They fall slightly inside the shoulders.

Now the shoulder cuff, which joints the shoulder arm to the body of the jacket, falls way outside of your waist line. You can see how extreme the angle at which this shoulder cuff roll sits, way off your shoulder line from the rear image. The actual acromion process of the shoulder joint (the bumpy edge bit of your shoulder that you can feel), falls between the 2 inches between the shoulder roll, and the lateral sunburst. This is a compromise of the sunburst art-deco design. Imho, it is too complicated a design to make a close fitting: possible - but a lot more tailoring work to get that spot on fit.

By down sizing, the rear shoulder rolls will fall closer in line with the acromium processes of your shoulder...but you say that it does sit 'right on the shoulder's edge', and that's with 2 others checking. Visually, it still doesn't look right. Maybe by trying the size down, that is the only way to know if it would constitute a better fit, to work on sorting out the other problems with sizing.

Not sure if that makes sense. I studied fine art so please excuse the geek in me.