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New Aero Bootlegger v. 2.0 CXL Brown

Messages
17,508
Location
Chicago
It’s more like “hey man, remember that jacket I sold you?”
2144D378-F8E7-4650-8E83-27F71B8A9AE1.gif
 

AeroFan_07

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,725
Location
Iowa
Booting this Bootlegger thread back up to life again. I considered building a new thread for the style - but this tread has alot of useful (and some less useful, just enjoyable) content, so no need to re-invent this wheel. I have two currently - and thought I would do a little review more of the style here and some of the crazy situations with fit I have experanced with this style. As will be observed, both these have some serious fit constraints, and either are or will shortly be up for grabs as well.

A little background first - the "Bootlegger" style which is well known around these parts, is based off the 50's Half-belt style jackets. The cross-zip front is more stylistic instead of serious function - such as a Perfecto style motorcycle jacket tends to be as all 4 lapels do not snap down on the Bootlegger. In additon, there is not a traditional belt, and the standard sleeves are "straight" or button cuffs. The theory here is a simplified motorcycle jacket, with a more traditional back. People do notice these jackets in public, yet I have rarely recieved a compliment wearing one of them. Not that I am looking for it, I just think folks are confused a bit when they see these, especially if not in black.

So I have two as I mentioned. The first is the well-know to these pages "Oddly heavy" FQHH in Cordovan, "size 44" with shorter than typical sleeves. This is just under 10 lbs of very thick, grainy horsehide, with an olive cotton drill lining. Had I been selecting this brand-new, I would have specifed 26" sleeves (straight) with zip-sleeve cuffs. It was an ebay purchase in 2017 so I do not know it's origins. Truth be told, it is so heavy it can really get in the way with daily life & movement. Plus driving a car the sleeves roll back 2-3" so you almost feel it's a short-sleeve jacket (or I do at least.) This jacket now has a #10 nickle zip that Dena installed after the #5 Talon gave up the ghost.

The second jacket shown here is from a member here who moved it along after finding the fit to be less than ideal. This Brown FQHH "size 40" is my first experance with both the "tumbled" FQHH varity, as well as the cotton plaid tartan lining instead of wool tartan. This Bootlegger has 27.5" sleeves - with zip-sleeve cuffs. Hardware is "antique brass" Talon. This jacke is a much more wearable weight of ~ 6.5 lbs. This is my first experance with "tumbled" FQHH and it is very nice. The break-in is nearly complete as it came out of the box. Especially the sleeves and the back, have a lot of grain, and the jacket feels more like a sweatshirt when worn, in terms of the softness of the leather. If you have found Horween FQHH too difficult to manage for break-in - I strongly suggest trying something out made with this tumbled FQHH leather.

Couple newer side by side fit photos for comparison:

DSC_0431.JPG DSC_0438.JPG DSC_0434.JPG DSC_0435.JPG DSC_0432.JPG DSC_0437.JPG

So as can be seen here, there are a few things going on between these two jackets. Objectively, until I raise my arms, the Cordovan (which appears black in these photos) is the better fit. Oddly, the Brown (40) jacket appears to have better shoulder room, but in actual try-on it is much more difficult to put on and take off than the Cordovan (44) jacket. The Brown is actually rather tight through the ribcage, and around the "waist" area. Yet, due in part by the shape of my back, there is a lot of "extra" material showing in the lower and mid back than with the Cordovan jacket. And the sleeves on the Brown are an opposite situation, of being too long. The Brown jacket is showing the pockets slightly opened up, where the Cordovan jacket the pockets stay more closed. This would be better if i did not have a thick flannel shirt on (worn wiht both jackets). This style for me is a three season design.

Thinking about a Bootlegger? Great choice, but I would caution those looking to order or pick one up secondhand with the following:
  • Watch sleeve length and cuff style
  • Torso length is sensitive on these - both these hit the "sweet spot" on this topic for me.
  • Back design & Half-belt details can be a challenge
  • Watch pit to pit, and waist sizing
  • Overall, this style lends itself to a more relaxed fit
  • Decide if a half-belt design is one you prefer or not
Here are the dimensions of these two, for referance if looking to build one -

Brown "40"
Pit to Pit - 24"
Shoulders - 18.75"
Sleeve - 27.5"
Waist - 21"
Back - 27"

Cordovan "44"
Pit to Pit - 24.5"
Shoulders - 19.5"
Sleeve - 24"
Waist - 22"
Back - 26.5"

Hope this has helped out someone...
 

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Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
Booting this Bootlegger thread back up to life again. I considered building a new thread for the style - but this tread has alot of useful (and some less useful, just enjoyable) content, so no need to re-invent this wheel. I have two currently - and thought I would do a little review more of the style here and some of the crazy situations with fit I have experanced with this style. As will be observed, both these have some serious fit constraints, and either are or will shortly be up for grabs as well.

A little background first - the "Bootlegger" style which is well known around these parts, is based off the 50's Half-belt style jackets. The cross-zip front is more stylistic instead of serious function - such as a Perfecto style motorcycle jacket tends to be as all 4 lapels do not snap down on the Bootlegger. In additon, there is not a traditional belt, and the standard sleeves are "straight" or button cuffs. The theory here is a simplified motorcycle jacket, with a more traditional back. People do notice these jackets in public, yet I have rarely recieved a compliment wearing one of them. Not that I am looking for it, I just think folks are confused a bit when they see these, especially if not in black.

So I have two as I mentioned. The first is the well-know to these pages "Oddly heavy" FQHH in Cordovan, "size 44" with shorter than typical sleeves. This is just under 10 lbs of very thick, grainy horsehide, with an olive cotton drill lining. Had I been selecting this brand-new, I would have specifed 26" sleeves (straight) with zip-sleeve cuffs. It was an ebay purchase in 2017 so I do not know it's origins. Truth be told, it is so heavy it can really get in the way with daily life & movement. Plus driving a car the sleeves roll back 2-3" so you almost feel it's a short-sleeve jacket (or I do at least.) This jacket now has a #10 nickle zip that Dena installed after the #5 Talon gave up the ghost.

The second jacket shown here is from a member here who moved it along after finding the fit to be less than ideal. This Brown FQHH "size 40" is my first experance with both the "tumbled" FQHH varity, as well as the cotton plaid tartan lining instead of wool tartan. This Bootlegger has 27.5" sleeves - with zip-sleeve cuffs. Hardware is "antique brass" Talon. This jacke is a much more wearable weight of ~ 6.5 lbs. This is my first experance with "tumbled" FQHH and it is very nice. The break-in is nearly complete as it came out of the box. Especially the sleeves and the back, have a lot of grain, and the jacket feels more like a sweatshirt when worn, in terms of the softness of the leather. If you have found Horween FQHH too difficult to manage for break-in - I strongly suggest trying something out made with this tumbled FQHH leather.

Couple newer side by side fit photos for comparison:

View attachment 307607 View attachment 307608 View attachment 307609 View attachment 307610 View attachment 307612 View attachment 307613

So as can be seen here, there are a few things going on between these two jackets. Objectively, until I raise my arms, the Cordovan (which appears black in these photos) is the better fit. Oddly, the Brown (40) jacket appears to have better shoulder room, but in actual try-on it is much more difficult to put on and take off than the Cordovan (44) jacket. The Brown is actually rather tight through the ribcage, and around the "waist" area. Yet, due in part by the shape of my back, there is a lot of "extra" material showing in the lower and mid back than with the Cordovan jacket. And the sleeves on the Brown are an opposite situation, of being too long. The Brown jacket is showing the pockets slightly opened up, where the Cordovan jacket the pockets stay more closed. This would be better if i did not have a thick flannel shirt on (worn wiht both jackets). This style for me is a three season design.

Thinking about a Bootlegger? Great choice, but I would caution those looking to order or pick one up secondhand with the following:
  • Watch sleeve length and cuff style
  • Torso length is sensitive on these - both these hit the "sweet spot" on this topic for me.
  • Back design & Half-belt details can be a challenge
  • Watch pit to pit, and waist sizing
  • Overall, this style lends itself to a more relaxed fit
  • Decide if a half-belt design is one you prefer or not
Here are the dimensions of these two, for referance if looking to build one -

Brown "40"
Pit to Pit - 24"
Shoulders - 18.75"
Sleeve - 27.5"
Waist - 21"
Back - 27"

Cordovan "44"
Pit to Pit - 24.5"
Shoulders - 19.5"
Sleeve - 24"
Waist - 22"
Back - 26.5"

Hope this has helped out someone...

IMO with your posture you should be looking for jackets with short backs and a front drop.
I think you could probably get away with a 24" back if the front was long enough to cover your belt.
That way you would not get all that extra material creasing and bunching in the back.
Sleeve length wise, i think the cordo is too short, but the brown is at least 1" if not more too long.
Have you ever had a 30's halbelt with a front drop?
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,731
Location
Europe
I should’ve never sold this jacket. But like a dumb ass idiot pursuing some mythical unicorn with gold plated horn...I did. Then, I had the chance to buy it back and didn’t. In other words....much like a recently divorced Facebook relationship status...”it’s complicated”

Off topic but taking up your unicorn comment: I spoke to a friend the other day who maintains that Unicorns MUST exist in a world with Giraffes. He said that a horse with a horn is much more likely than a Leopard-Elk-Camel with a three meter neck...
Gave me a solid laugh and a good chuckle every time I think about Unicorns since then.
 
Last edited:
Messages
17,508
Location
Chicago
On a semi-related note, someone recently bought a nice Hooch Hauler, a close relative to the Bootlegger, in Russet Badalassi, and it's got to be one of the nicest fitting jackets I've ever seen, in one of the nicest leathers I've ever seen.

Love the hooch but can’t abide by that center “gusset”. The video clearly illustrates why. I would def have one without that feature though. I know why it’s there and I can see it works but.....it’s just too...anatomical*

* in place of a more accurate descriptor.
 
Messages
16,842
Love the hooch but can’t abide by that center “gusset”. The video clearly illustrates why. I would def have one without that feature though. I know why it’s there and I can see it works but.....it’s just too...anatomical*

* in place of a more accurate descriptor.

Y'know, I keep thinking of the same thing, whenever I this sort of gusset. Figured it may be just me but... Yeah, same reason why I'd definitely... Avoid this particular... Solution for ease of movement.
 

rockandrollrabbit

One of the Regulars
Messages
153
Location
Chicago, IL
Love the hooch but can’t abide by that center “gusset”. The video clearly illustrates why. I would def have one without that feature though. I know why it’s there and I can see it works but.....it’s just too...anatomical*

* in place of a more accurate descriptor.
Add my name to those intrigued by the Hooch Hauler but turned off by the Eye of Sauron on the back. I inquired with Denny about omitting it and was told no dice.
 

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