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New Aero Bootlegger. Help with next order

Faux59

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
Toronto
Russet Badalassi and yes it squeaks!

Giving credit where credit is due. I follow Dale's Leatherworks on youtube and seeing a video of his Hooch Hauler connived me I needed an offset but I didn’t like the ornate backside enough to buy that pattern. Unfortunately for me Dale mentioned the Bootlegger in his video and I made the mistake of searching Aero’s website. I saw the plain back and was sold.

The stock Bootlegger 50s cut looked too bulky on the website. I asked Aero if I could get the slimmer Hooch Hauler 30s cut. They said no but a slimmer STF pattern was available so that's what I went with. Size 40 Bootlegger STF. Originally I went with a 38 Bootlegger and Aero suggested I size up to 40 for STF. I ordered this mid December and it arrived 15 weeks later.

So far so good. I’m happy with how it turned out. I think we got the length right for this style and the sleeve length is exactly what I wanted. They do ride up my arm if I reach forward but I didn’t want them to be too long when standing normally. I bought this for casual wear and wouldn’t wear such an expensive garment on my bike.

I thought russet would be more red in person. It's very similar to my medium brown Shinki. I was originally conflicted between this and natural CXL. I love the colour but in hindsight would have gone with something else had I have known to be different. The last picture I uploaded shows the similarities. Russet is still a great hue.

2 minor dislikes. No loop for hanging this on a hook and it’s difficult inserting the zipper. I think it will ease up with use.

Next Aero

I would like to ask Fedora for advice on my next jacket based on this Bootlegger and if I made the right decisions. I ordered a Premier 1930s Highway in February and still have time to make alterations. Would you make any changes from the list below? This is the jacket I chose. There are a few similar front patters but I like the Premier 30s back and don't want a 3rd half belt. https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/mens/premier-1930s-highwayman/mto060

1. Leather
I need a black jacket to replace a Schott 689H I couldn't jive with. That thing was stiff as a board and I didn't like how shiny it was. I chose Vicenza and I like the idea of full veg tan and horse hide but can be swayed towards a different leather that isn't either. What I'd like is a soft-medium hide that's pliable and holds its colour (I read that meaning it won’t teacore). Vicenza seems to fit the bill.

2. Length
The Bootlegger is 24.5” collar to back. Would you keep length the same or make it longer?

3. Sleeve length
The Bootlegger sleeve is 23.25". I may add up to an inch.

4. Width
The Bootlegger is 40”. I’m 39” at the chest and 39.5" with full lungs. Would you stick with 40" or go up a size? I should mention that my weight is sloping downwards because I am exercising regularly now and eating healthier. I'm down 15 lbs from when I ordered the Bootlegger.

5. External chest pocket
I asked for no external chest pocket for a cleaner look. Aero said I wouldn't be able to return it with this modification. Both ways looks good to me. I've never used this pocket on any jacket but may reneg and keep the outside pocket.

6. Zipper
Waldes 1930s grommet. It was a free upgrade normally $35.

7. Other
Things I'm not changing but just mentioning.
Black thread.
Auld Scotland Lochcarron Tartan.
Nickel hardware.
Looped Ball and Chain.

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MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,338
Location
Europe
No loop for hanging this on a hook
If I buy a jacket and it has a loop, I cancel the loop. I find that with reasonably heavy leather, the back warps too easily when the jacket is hanging on the loop. I used to do that.

and it’s difficult inserting the zipper.


Talon zip? Will not change.
I've had no more problems with the zip since I took the Universal zipper.
2. Length
A PHWM should be rather short. In this respect, I would not lengthen anything. Maybe add a little front drop.
I would leave it as it is. However, Vicenza is somewhat smoother than Basalassi. So if the hooch hauler is a bit wider now, you could consider it. But I don't think it's necessary.
Aero said I wouldn't be able to return it with this modification.
This applies to any change that makes the jacket no longer pass as standard (size or details).
6. Zipper
Universal

Sleeve length
Yes, add a little bit
 

Faux59

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
Toronto
@MrProper thanks for the detailed response! It has a Talon zipper.

@jacketjunkie fair point. I didn't order both jackets at the same time for this reason. I figured I could use this Bootlegger to tailor the Highwayman if I got anything wrong.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,320
Location
Germany
@MrProper thanks for the detailed response! It has a Talon zipper.

@jacketjunkie fair point. I didn't order both jackets at the same time for this reason. I figured I could use this Bootlegger to tailor the Highwayman if I got anything wrong.
If you insist on going through with the purchase rather than wear the jacket you just received for a moment, you are a grown man after all, I‘ll give you more concrete advice on your points raised:

Sleeve length is matter of personal preference, I think yours on this Bootlegger is perfect, I would not add length.

Width dont go with size tags, go by pit to pit measurement. Measure how much the Bootlegger has and pick a Highwayman with corresponding size or 1“ up if you want a more relaxed fit than this Bootlegger.

The PHM has a slight front drop, if you pick the same backlength, it will be slightly longer in front. Whenever people add length to a Highwayman and try to turn it into a hip-length jacket, it never turns out well and always looks off. Hip-length is just not what the HWM is by design.

As for black pliable leather that holds color, black vicenca or black goatskin if you like pebbly leather are both solid choices.

The Schott 689h is a jacket superior to the PHM in my personal opinion and the shiny horsehide develops a fantastic grain and patina over time. I would hold on to it if I were you. You might find yourself selling the Aero in the future and circling back to this one.
 
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Faux59

Familiar Face
Messages
78
Location
Toronto
@morrison2951 congrats, that jacket looks great on you!

@jacketjunkie thanks for following up.

I have been wearing this jacket daily since I got it. I ordered the second Aero 2 months ago and need a black jacket so I'm not cancelling it. I did follow up with Aero about sizing and we changed the Highwayman to 42 based on this Bootlegger's measurements they took for QC.

I like Schott. I'm not trashing them at all. I have a P571 I use for motorcycling and 701. That 689H was simply not for me and I gave it 6 months of regular wear before reaching that conclusion. Even the wind flap drove me nuts! I went to a seamster about cutting it off who strongly encouraged me not to do that. I sold it after that and look forward to something else.
 

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