Nertz to Notched!

[Forgotten Man]

Well, this is my first thread here, I hope to voice my opinion in a non offensive light of course, but also turn on the light of creativity and experimentation… which is my mission here.

I’ve been looking around here a little and noticed something; a good deal of people who are passionate of the past, what it was about and the fashion there in. I have seen some custom made suits, money being spent in efforts to achieve a suit of a superior fit. Now, I would like to encourage those seeking to have a custom made suit to be a little adventurous, to think outside the box a little if you will.

The majority of the suits I’ve seen made by custom tailors are not ugly in any respect, they just seem to lack a sense of personality or uniqueness that is attached to the period in which they are trying to portray.

The notched lapel:

Notched lapels are fine, they’re nice, can be rather handsome if you ask me. The standard suit of the 1920’s to now is a two or three button single breasted notched lapel suit. Of course the button placement changed over the years, but, the look is still very close to what it was in the early days. Today, one can purchase a notched lapel single job at any department store or outlet. Or, if the individual is of a smaller or thin stature, he could buy an original suit from the period he wishes for a fraction of the cost of a custom made suit.

My self, I find it a very conservative style, lacking in personality and individuality, not separating the wearer from the rest of the “Sheep” if you will. If I were to have a suit made, I would have most of the details added from a Sears catalog model… you are all familiar with the style I mention, belted back, pleated patch pockets, darted front, wide legged trousers, high waisted trousers and such. Made of a fabric with a strong pattern, something that stands out.

I’d love to see more guys taking the chance, having a double breasted suit made, no matter what size you may be, I think the double breasted suit is an icon of a bygone era. And can look very classy on most body types if tailored well.

Be brave, be bold, choose a unique pattern, don’t be afraid as to what others think or may say, you took the first major step by wearing a fedora or other vintage styled hats! Life is too short to worry about the “Sheep” and what they will say!

You all are crusaders of higher ideals and style standards! Be adventurous, be creative, break the mold!

I say this in all sincerity,

Forgotten Man~

 

[Baron Kurtz]

My favourite style of all the ones i've encountered is 2 button notch lapel, high button stance and gorge with rounded base of the front segments.

I find SBPL a little flashy.

DBPL is good.

bk

 

[Forgotten Man]

Hello sir, I am glad you have contributed to this thread of mine.

I’m not apposed to notched lapels, my concern is that, a great majority of men having custom made suits I’ve seen are going with the basic standard style which leaves for me something to be desired. It tells other people that they have little creativity and little confidence to carry off a bit of a bolder look.

For, if I were to have a suit custom made, I’d have something different made, a copy of something that really doesn’t exist anymore.

“Too Flashy” is better fitted to the attire of a 1970’s street pimp I feel, or maybe the modern “Zoot Suit”. A standard peaked lapel single breasted is rather classy in my taste, however, some what over idolized and praised in many regards.

I’ve seen some of your photos; you have a fine collection of vintage sir!

Forgotten Man~

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I understand your point and agree that a little variety would be a great thing for menswear in general.

The prevalent style is bound to become boring/standard. But notch lapel done well is as good as any other. Except on a DB jacket, IMO, where it really doeesn't work well (though i do recall a pic of Dinerman looking pretty sharp in a DB notch).

bk

 

[Feraud]

I am all for variety and a splash of individuality in terms of dressing.

Here is a sample of the fabric, color, and styles I use in my wardrobe.

Gray tweed

Tux jacket

Ties for color

Double breasted linen

Gray flecked sport coat

In action.

 

[Forgotten Man]

That is an appearance worthy of mention. Thank you for sharing those photos.:eusa_clap They show versatility and class. I especially love the suit in your avatar, very classy.

Forgotten Man~

 

[Feraud]

Thanks for the kind words. The avatar photo is a hard to notice glen plaid pattern. I also have the pattern in a single breasted.

 

[dostacos]

Well, this is my first thread here, I hope to voice my opinion in a non offensive light of course, but also turn on the light of creativity and experimentation… which is my mission here.

I’ve been looking around here a little and noticed something; a good deal of people who are passionate of the past, what it was about and the fashion there in. I have seen some custom made suits, money being spent in efforts to achieve a suit of a superior fit. Now, I would like to encourage those seeking to have a custom made suit to be a little adventurous, to think outside the box a little if you will.

The majority of the suits I’ve seen made by custom tailors are not ugly in any respect, they just seem to lack a sense of personality or uniqueness that is attached to the period in which they are trying to portray.

The notched lapel:

Notched lapels are fine, they’re nice, can be rather handsome if you ask me. The standard suit of the 1920’s to now is a two or three button single breasted notched lapel suit. Of course the button placement changed over the years, but, the look is still very close to what it was in the early days. Today, one can purchase a notched lapel single job at any department store or outlet. Or, if the individual is of a smaller or thin stature, he could buy an original suit from the period he wishes for a fraction of the cost of a custom made suit.

My self, I find it a very conservative style, lacking in personality and individuality, not separating the wearer from the rest of the “Sheep” if you will. If I were to have a suit made, I would have most of the details added from a Sears catalog model… you are all familiar with the style I mention, belted back, pleated patch pockets, darted front, wide legged trousers, high waisted trousers and such. Made of a fabric with a strong pattern, something that stands out.

I’d love to see more guys taking the chance, having a double breasted suit made, no matter what size you may be, I think the double breasted suit is an icon of a bygone era. And can look very classy on most body types if tailored well.

Be brave, be bold, choose a unique pattern, don’t be afraid as to what others think or may say, you took the first major step by wearing a fedora or other vintage styled hats! Life is too short to worry about the “Sheep” and what they will say!

You all are crusaders of higher ideals and style standards! Be adventurous, be creative, break the mold!

I say this in all sincerity,

Forgotten Man~

you have OFFENDED me sir, totally OFFENDED me lol lol

I love the look of a double breasted suit, however I thing those of us that are vertically challenged [or morbidly undertall] don't look that good in a double breasted. Now Big Man here could because he is not only a touch on the larger side he is also MUCH taller than the average male so he has more area to allow a nice drape of the suit. I being probably 8 inches shorter and 2 sizes wider it would add to my width issuse I probably look best in a 3 piece suit with a contrasting vest and the coat open, making my "look" taller and slimmer. I like the idea of pushing the outside of the envelope, but some of us have the build of the south bound end of a north bound hippo.

Having said that John Goodman in KING RALPH was well fitted in a nice Double Breasted suit.

EDIT: my point being, some of us are trying to just not look horrible.....

oh and 2 of my son's went with double breasted suits as their first suit of choice and they looked great, thank goodness his mother and I are good breeding stock [when we make 'em they look better than us! all three are taller and thinner than either of us, I think my mom's genes kicked in]

 

[Forgotten Man]

you have OFFENDED me sir, totally OFFENDED me lol lol

I love the look of a double breasted suit, however I thing those of us that are vertically challenged [or morbidly undertall] don't look that good in a double breasted. Now Big Man here could because he is not only a touch on the larger side he is also MUCH taller than the average male so he has more area to allow a nice drape of the suit. I being probably 8 inches shorter and 2 sizes wider it would add to my width issuse I probably look best in a 3 piece suit with a contrasting vest and the coat open, making my "look" taller and slimmer. I like the idea of pushing the outside of the envelope, but some of us have the build of the south bound end of a north bound hippo.

Having said that John Goodman in KING RALPH was well fitted in a nice Double Breasted suit.

EDIT: my point being, some of us are trying to just not look horrible.....

oh and 2 of my son's went with double breasted suits as their first suit of choice and they looked great, thank goodness his mother and I are good breeding stock [when we make 'em they look better than us! all three are taller and thinner than either of us, I think my mom's genes kicked in]

I can understand your argument my friend. However, I’d like to mention that the star Sidney Greenstreet and Edward Arnold were some of Hollywood’s heavy weights… They wore double breasted on occasion, I think they looked rather sharp in DB’s

A well tailored DB will look very nice on fuller figured men… it was a style that was very popular in the 30’s to 40’s as I’m sure you know. Any man who wanted to be "with the times" would have had at least one or two DB suits.

I think it looks tough and or classy on a man of larger stature. Yes, ideally on a slimmer figure of course and the same can be said for any style of suit or any style of clothing if you think of it. If you still feel that a DB isn’t right for you, at least try peaked lapels on a single breasted… ad a dash of flash… it will look more 30’s or 40’s I think. And if a three piece is made, have the vest match the suit… in the 20’s to 40’s men of any size who had a custom suit made would have had it that way. Looks sharp!

Forgotten Man~

 

[Dinerman]

Except on a DB jacket, IMO, where it really doeesn't work well (though i do recall a pic of Dinerman looking pretty sharp in a DB notch).

bk

The fabric, the tie and the hat make it look good. The cut, not so much.

 

[Feraud]

The fabric, the tie and the hat make it look good. The cut, not so much.

Do not forget the attitude of the guy wearing the outfit.
That counts for a lot!

Attitude is the key when wearing any style outfit. It is the difference between the comments, "Look at him!" versus, "great suit.."