Need advice on overall appearance in suit

[Levallois]

Well, I finally got my clothes together and put on the circa 1956 charcoal gray DB suit I acquired a while back along with a white Ralph Lauren shirt, light blue linen tie with fleir-de-lis decos from the 40s; a medium blue, gray and dark blue pocket square; Optimo hat in Skyline blue; and oxblood wingtips.

I need some advice about this combination - my wife likes all but the oxblood shoes - she things black would be more appropriate. Here is a closeup of the shoes:

I don't mind the shoes but I wonder if the tie and hat (either felt or ribbon) should match better and/or if another color shirt might liven things up a bit? It just seems to be missing something. What do you all think? All constructive help about the clothes will be greatly appreciated. I already know the model leaves something to be desired. Thanks!

John

 

[Jay]

I'd say swap out the tie for something darker. It's the only thing that clashes. Maroon, or dark blue or black or something might look better. Personally I'd go with a dark gray hat, but, perhaps I am biased when it comes to hats.

Just my two cents.

 

[raven_retro]

You need something on top to balance the color of the shoes. If you want to wear the shoes, try a sangria/dark-red (any rich jewel tone shirt really) colored shirt and whatever suitable tie (black is the easiest color). You have to compliment the color of the shoes to get away with wearing them. I think a sangria shirt would look nice with your skin tone. Take advantage of the fact that you're a little tanner than most people.

Good luck, hope this helped.

 

[billyspew]

Overall look is great, certainly keep the light coloured shirt maybe pair it with a rich red/brown/etc tie.

Also shirt sleeves need to be longer or the suit sleeves shorter to show about 1/4". Also the shirt collar seems a little baggy maybe 1/2" too big or could be just the photo.

As I say the overall look is great.

 

[Bird's One View]

If you want to show shirt cuff, shorten the coat sleeves a touch. If not ... don't.

The trousers may be a little long, or perhaps they have just slipped down a bit.

I would prefer a darker tie and / or a plain white pocket square. No need for the hat to match anything and no need to match anything to the oxblood shoes. Black shoes would be fine but I like these as well.

 

[Widebrim]

I think you've gotten some good advice so far, but I'll toss in my synthesis of it all...The hat might be better in gray, although I don't think it is presently a problem. As for the tie, it looks solid on its own, but really should be of a maroon or gray/maroon color. The shirt is good, although as raven_retro stated, a sangria-colored one (with perhaps a black/maroon tie) would also work well. Regarding the sleeves, if you take them up, I think they would be a tad too high, so you should likely try to obtain another shirt which is 1" longer at the cuffs. I see no problem with the shoes, although as stated, the trousers appear to be a bit too long. The pocket square would likely change color depending on what adjustments you might make, but the present color combo is quite acceptable...And women thought they had it tough when it came to preparing an ensemble.lol

 

[Bird's One View]

Regarding the sleeves, if you take them up, I think they would be a tad too high, so you should likely try to obtain another shirt which is 1" longer at the cuffs.

There are different opinions about proper shirt sleeve lengths and many men do wear longer sleeves as Widebrim suggests.

I can't stand wearing sleeves (except on overcoats) that cover any of my hand, hence my earlier suggestion. There is an interesting thread at styleforum on this topic.

 

[Levallois]

I really appreciate all the replies - great advice! I'll try to get together some of these colors and report back. In the meantime, how about a S.L. Bird & Sons teal-colored hat and a paisley tie with the matching colors? I know, my wife rolled her eyes too. Heaven help me, I like it.

[/IMG]

 

[Bird's One View]

I like that combination better than the first.

 

[DanielJones]

If it was a navy blue suit or even a royal blue I would say that the shoes go with it perfectly, but with charcoal grey the black shoes are the best choice. If you're going for a uniform monochrome look the blue toe goes but I might suggest something with a little more color or flair to make the whole outfit pop. Either that, or if you were to go with a red or red patterned pocket square with less blue or grey in it to pull the red element out of your tie them you would have something that is understated but some how stands out from the crowd.
Anyway, that is just my suggestion from what I've seen here, for what it is worth. Give it a shot and see what you come up with.

Cheers!

Dan

 

[kuwisdelu]

I like the new combination.

Personally, I'd pair it with either my wine/green/gold stripe tie or my wine/navy paisley, with a plain white pocket square or a nice dark red silk one, and top it off with a grey fedora with a black ribbon.

 

[WilliamLious]

Either change the shoes to black or change the tie to a reddish colour.

 

[Torpedo]

Hi,

I agree with much of what has been said.

Shoes: black would go better because the suit is charcoal grey.
Tie: I would select a darker blue ground (if going for a overall blue and grey look) or a contrasting colour, like maroon.
Hat: a more contrasting felt, like a granite grey, would be better, but that midnite blue is acceptable too.
Pocket square: the one in the first pics is fine, the blue accents pick on the tie's tone; this said, that tie/PS combo would look better with a medium or blue grey suit.
Sleeve lenght: personally, I prefer some cuff showing. Judging by your pic, I would say shorten the jacket's sleeve, not lenghtening the shirt's. Nowadays long sleeves are common, so much that even when I have jackets amended I have to really insist for the tailor to make them the lenght I like.

(As an aside, I see LOTS of people do not even bother to have alterations made to their jacket' sleeves, and wear them asolutely too long. And I am not refering to sports jackets - not that I think this is allowable, neither - but suit jackets in professional environments.)

The second combo looks better. Nice hat colour! The white PS is always correct.

 

[Max Flash]

I am a stickler for black shoes but I think the crucial thing here is the shirt, regardless of the tie you are wearing it with. A plain shirt coupled with a plain pattern suit will always, IMO, look....well, plain and certainly flat. Try wearing a striped shirt, either white with a blue stripe or with a maroon stripe to complement the oxblood shoes, if you're sticking with them. If you're feeling bold, go for a butcher's stripe shirt in white and blue.

Obviously, this is just my view. As the other comments attest, everyone has a slightly different view, showing how personal a thing dressing is!

 

[Torpedo]

A plain shirt coupled with a plain pattern suit will always, IMO, look....well, plain and certainly flat. Try wearing a striped shirt, either white with a blue stripe or with a maroon stripe to complement the oxblood shoes, if you're sticking with them. If you're feeling bold, go for a butcher's stripe shirt in white and blue.

I would agree if the tie was also solid-coloured; in my view (that is, just my opinion), a patterned tie is enough to offset a plain shirt and a plain suit, providing there is enough contrast between suit and shirt (BTW, the opposite, that is, all three elements with a pattern, does usually look too busy - I think no more than two elements should have a pattern; maybe if one has a subtle tone-on-tone, but even then...mmmh.

Of course, sometimes one sees combos that ordinarily should not work, but that somehow do.

If you wear odd trousers (instead of a suit), and/or a hat (and its ribbon), then you have even more items to harmonize.

 

[Max Flash]

I would agree if the tie was also solid-coloured; in my view (that is, just my opinion), a patterned tie is enough to offset a plain shirt and a plain suit, providing there is enough contrast between suit and shirt (BTW, the opposite, that is, all three elements with a pattern, does usually look too busy - I think no more than two elements should have a pattern; maybe if one has a subtle tone-on-tone, but even then...mmmh.

Of course, sometimes one sees combos that ordinarily should not work, but that somehow do.

If you wear odd trousers (instead of a suit), and/or a hat (and its ribbon), then you have even more items to harmonize.

Yes, I can see where you are coming from. However, I think that as the tie has a large "over-riding" pattern, it could support a patterned shirt behind.

Definitely agree that three patterned elements could look cluttered. A useful approach is to go for a textured shirt - e.g. with a herringbone weave in the fabric. This would look richer and the light would cast differently, without looking too much.

 

[Torpedo]

Yes, I can see where you are coming from. However, I think that as the tie has a large "over-riding" pattern, it could support a patterned shirt behind.

Definitely agree that three patterned elements could look cluttered. A useful approach is to go for a textured shirt - e.g. with a herringbone weave in the fabric. This would look richer and the light would cast differently, without looking too much.

I think we are both very much in the same tune, in fact. I did not say a patterned shirt should not be worn with the above outfit, just that it need not. An appropriate pattern could be worn, no problem.

The textured shirt idea is great, too. That would be better than my "tone-on-tone" suggestion for some combinations, it being even subtler.

Regards!

 

[avedwards]

I would agree if the tie was also solid-coloured; in my view (that is, just my opinion), a patterned tie is enough to offset a plain shirt and a plain suit, providing there is enough contrast between suit and shirt (BTW, the opposite, that is, all three elements with a pattern, does usually look too busy - I think no more than two elements should have a pattern; maybe if one has a subtle tone-on-tone, but even then...mmmh.

I have to disagree there. I wore a black pinstripe suit, a white shirt with subtle blue stripes and a red tie with a pattern made a random blue shape once and I found it was a very good combination with a grey fedora. That said, the stripes on the shirt were subtle and those on the suit even more to the extent that when viewed from a distance the suit appears dark grey rather than black with white stripes.

 

[Feraud]

I recommend this thread for advice.
http://207.218.231.242/~thefedor/showthread.php?t=40167

 

[Torpedo]

I recommend this thread for advice.
http://207.218.231.242/~thefedor/showthread.php?t=40167

:arated: Marc will offer you very knowledgeable advice.