My VINTAGE ZOOT SUIT – c. 1940

[Marc Chevalier]

What’s arguably the rarest 20th century menswear item in the vintage world? A genuine zoot suit from the 1940s.


In 20+ years of collecting and selling vintage menswear, I’ve only seen two vintage zoot suits. This is the second one, which I own, and it’s early: probably from 1940. The very first zoot suits were the most ‘conservative’: the jacket’s length usually didn’t extend below the wearer’s fingertips, and the trousers, though seriously pegged, weren’t extremely baggy – yet. I’ve inserted some historical images for comparison.


At some point, this zoot suit was purchased by a movie studio’s wardrobe department and kept there for years, which is probably what saved it from the garbage heap. It’s a dark brown color with a plum hue. The jacket’s inside back is yoke-lined and skeleton-lined. There are no identifying labels. The quality of fabric and manufacture are good.


As far as I can tell, there are no photos on the Internet that show a vintage 1940s zoot suit in the here-and-now (2011). These pictures might just be the first. Hope you find them enlightening.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

 

[Patrick Hall]

Fascinating! Thanks for putting these photos out there. The proportions of that coat are incredible - the tiny, tiny lapels, and the waist suppression is DRAMATIC. I've always thought there was something inherently aesthetically pleasing about a long coat - but I think i'd prefer a frock to a zoot suit.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

You're right: the waist is incredibly suppressed, and the shoulders are very extended.

 

[sproily]

The cut of the jacket is indeed flattering! I'm kind of surprised by the sloping (almost 1840's) shoulders.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Marc,

Is the tailoring as bad as it looks? It appears very amateurishly cut, particularly the lapels; almost like a stage suit.

Very nice to see one, anyway.

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Marc,

Is the tailoring as bad as it looks? It appears very amateurishly cut, particularly the lapels; almost like a stage suit.

Not bad at all, IMO -- but purposefully exaggerated. Take the lapels: they're rounded (to give 'belly'), with 'fish-mouth' notches and a large collar. All very deliberate details.

Marc,

Is the tailoring as bad as it looks? It appears very amateurishly cut, particularly the lapels; almost like a stage suit.

Not bad at all, IMO -- but purposefully exaggerated. Take the lapels: they're rounded (to give 'belly'), with 'fish-mouth' notches and a large collar. All very deliberate details.


Zoot suits first came about because customers in Harlem went to local 'made-to-order' tailoring companies and asked for suits to be made with certain details: very wide shoulders and 'drapey' chests, very suppressed jacket waists, longish jacket skirts, loose trouser thighs and knees, and very pegged ankles.


Other details sometimes included a ticket pocket flap (but no pocket), vertical slash pockets on the hips of the jacket, and eccentric high lapels.


Interestingly, the owners and managers of Harlem's tailoring companies freely expressed to the press their disgust for zoot suits, which they considered a discordant pastiche of exaggerated details -- but money was money, so customers got the requested goods.

 

[Edward]

Always interesting to see an early example of something like this: gives an idea of what they were really like before they became characateured by Hollywood / the media / whatever and the distorted image became the dominant one (see also Oxford Bags, Teddy Boys, punk rock, etc).

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Always interesting to see an early example of something like this: gives an idea of what they were really like before they became characateured by Hollywood / the media / whatever and the distorted image became the dominant one (see also Oxford Bags, Teddy Boys, punk rock, etc).

Unlike most items of menswear, zoot suits changed very, very quickly. Within two or three years after mine was made, zoot suit jackets had become very long, trousers very baggy at the knee, and leg cuffs extremely pegged -- so narrow, in fact, that some had (necessary) zippers at the ankles.

 

[Patrick Hall]

The cut of the jacket is indeed flattering! I'm kind of surprised by the sloping (almost 1840's) shoulders.

I was thinking about this last night - my comment about the frock touched it off. Wasn't there a similar trend towards frock coats with constructed shoulders and waists so suppressed that men were wearing corsets in the middle of the 19th century?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I was thinking about this last night - my comment about the frock touched it off. Wasn't there a similar trend towards frock coats with constructed shoulders and waists so suppressed that men were wearing corsets in the middle of the 19th century?

Yes ... and baggy trousers with pegs were popular on fashionable men's so-called 'college suits' (seen more in Times Square and Park Avenue than on campuses) from the late 1890s to around 1912. An early version of the 'pork pie' hat went along with the look.

 

[Feraud]

No labels? Could this have been made by a studio rather than purchased by one?

 

[O2BSwank]

Modern ,new "Zoot suits"

I don't think i would ever wear one, you would have to be very thin and tall to really pull it off. However there there is a part of the Hispanic community that will dress up in matching "zoot styled suits" for weddings, Quincineras, and other special occasions. In the L.A. garment district there is a store that will supply any number of "off the rack" zoot suits and hats, and shoes. They come in various colors and styles. The trilby style hats come in many bright colors (with feathers!) and if you want two-tone wing tips this is the place! I assure you will look like you stepped out of a Tex Avery cartoon. They also sell long "wool look" style overcoats. All of these garments are made of polyester, and are reasonably priced. The shoes are synthetic but well made. They also sell regular two and three piece suits. I bought a nice black pinstripe suit which was well detailed and inexpensive.
The shop owners are very nice and helpful they can order from their warehouse and get it probably the next day.
There is plenty of low priced parking garages in the area and it is best to park and walk around. Plenty of cops patrolling in cars, on foot, and bicycle . It feels very safe and fun!
Sina Fashions 214 E.9th. St. L.A. 90015 (213)833-0033 B/T Santee & L.A. St.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

No labels? Could this have been made by a studio rather than purchased by one?

Don't think so. It doesn't look like a studio-made zoot suit: the wool is too heavy, and its details are not exaggerated enough. (See the movie Stormy Weather and the Mexican films of comedian 'Tin-Tan' for views of 'Hollywoodized' zoot suits.)


This suit looks more like a wardrobe dept. purchase for outfitting an extra.


When studio wardrobe departments (or costume companies) bought non-costume clothes, they typically removed the items' original manufacturer/store labels and replaced 'em with their own (i.e., "Western Costume Co. -- name -- size -- date --") This suit no longer has any labels, not even a studio one -- but it does have its size crudely painted in white on the jacket's inner lining.

 

[Patrick Hall]

"When studio wardrobe departments (or costume companies) bought non-costume clothes, they typically removed the items' original manufacturer/store labels and replaced 'em with their own (i.e., "Western Costume Co. -- name -- size -- date --") This suit no longer has any labels, not even a studio one -- but it does have its size crudely painted in white on the jacket's inner lining."

I wondered if - given what you said previously about the made-to-order firms being themselves embarrassed about making such garish suits, the maker "neglected" to affix their label to it. Your explanation about studios removing the labels seems much more plausible however.

 

[Feraud]

I see. Thanks for the update Marc.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

I wondered if - given what you said previously about the made-to-order firms being themselves embarrassed about making such garish suits, the maker "neglected" to affix their label to it.

Here's something interesting: the made-to-order firms claimed that they didn't like the look of zoot suits. However ... they also said to reporters that they had no qualms about fulfilling their customers' requests, however garish. In fact, they seemed to take pride in it.

For these makers, customer service (or the dollar?) was a higher 'ideal' than the enforcement of 'good' taste.

 

[TCMfan25]

Zoots really don't do it for me.

 

[GHT]

Zoots really don't do it for me.

For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction.

 

[Patrick Hall]

For these makers, customer service (or the dollar?) was a higher 'ideal' than the enforcement of 'good' taste.

"We take great pride in making bewildering and outlandish garments that we think are ugly for people who can afford it." Think that would have worked on a billboard?