My new prohibition-era suit, inspired by Matt Deckard

[Wildblue]

I'll repost this new thread of mine from the Ask Andy forum:

Two years ago, I had a new series of bespoke clothing commissioned in Korea. Well, I just had another trip back to the same location with the tailor, so I had another one made. I'll resurrect the threads to add the latest piece.

Overall, I'm trying to "class up" my look, especially in semi-formal attire, and am exploring various options and combinations. Very open to comments, criticisms, and suggestions.

The master thread is here in the Bespoke Subforum: (participation by those who have applied for Bespoke Subforum access)
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103390

Part 1 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103468
Part 2 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103654
Part 3 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103682
Part 4 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103833
Part 5 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103859
Part 6 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103955
Part 7 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...d.php?t=104182
Part 8 of the series is here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104250

This time around, I wanted to go retro again. I was inspired by Matt Deckard's clothing, particularly this picture below. I definitely wanted something from the Prohibition era, that could have been seen in "The Untouchables" or such, but wouldn't be totally out of place in today's world. Here's the Matt Deckard pic that inspired me the most. I wish it was a better look at the suit--I absolutely love the look.

So I asked my tailor to make that suit, of a Prohibition era but incorporating some modern aspects as well, and I'm really happy with the final results. I do hope I get the chance to get a true Matt Deckard suit some day! I decided to have the vest and jacket match, with different color trousers. They were going a particular direction with the vest and trousers, and had to have them raise the vest top point by a bit, and keep the trousers a bit baggy. The suit feels great to wear with braces.

Overall, feedback on the suit has been really good so far. The first time I wore it out in Denver, I was walking the downtown streets after a late dinner, and had some young hecklers go by on a scooter. The guy shouted, "Hey, it's Luca Brasi!" (I'm actually impressed he got the reference somewhat correct on that one) After which the girl shouted, "Yo, thah gawdfahhtheh!" (capturing her apparent Jersey accent as best as I can) But then on the plane ride home, the stewardess said, "it's so nice to see a man in a fedora nowadays!" Another lady said "wow, you're wearing the hell out of that fedora!" And another lady eyed me a couple times, and on the airplane after I had taken off the jacket and hat, she caught me in the isle and said, "I think you are very elegant!" That last one really made my day.

(I like to still dress up for airline travel, to remember the golden days of the airlines and our heritage)

So, the suit. Starting with the outerwear I wore to church. The suit is bespoke. Shirt this time is a standard Paul Frederick, silver cufflinks. Older tie from my collection. Decided to try it with a basic white pocket square today, although I wore it in Denver without a PS. Selentino Queen fedora, Allen Edmonds shoes. I actually forgot to wear my pocketwatch with chain today--that would have perfected the outfit. We've had a record BAD winter here in Alaska. Typically, my back deck is clear for pictures, but even though spring is a bit early here in Alaska, I'm actually standing on snow that has melted and packed down to about 2 feet thick.

 

[nihil]

You sir, got class!

 

[Shangas]

That's very handsome!

I always thought vintage waistcoats came with more buttons than that, though. Most of the ones I've seen have at least six. I thought the five-button waistcoat was a more modern trend. I like that it has four pockets. Very handy, that'll be.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

Very interesting! Matching waistcoat and jacket with contrasting complimentary trousers. This is a very nice look and it definitely seems to work; I was actually considering doing something similar myself since the pants from my favourite suit got swapped at the drycleaners and alas could not be recovered. I wasn't sure if it was a faux pas to wear a waistcoat and jacket that match and contrast the pants, but you look very smart with this look. It may be that matching the fedora to the pants is the key that makes it all come together, though, in which case I may yet be in trouble!

In any case, well done and very smart look. I wonder if Mr. Deckard will drop in to give his .02.

 

[Dinerman]

That's very handsome!

I always thought vintage waistcoats came with more buttons than that, though. Most of the ones I've seen have at least six. I thought the five-button waistcoat was a more modern trend. I like that it has four pockets. Very handy, that'll be.

It was done.
Vest from the early 1950s.

Vest from the early 1930s.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I like the look. I often wear combinations too. But when I was in the situation to go bespoke I would go for matching pants AND an additional pair in a lighter color.


Matt Deckard has a cool style. He is a good role model. But you know...he has his own clothing line too. Why should he comment on some korean tailors work? Just sayin...

 

[Mario]

It was done.
Vest from the early 1950s.

I remember that waistcoat. Came with that SB 2-button, peak-lapel jacket, right?. Silly me didn't bid...

 

[Dinerman]

Great memory. I got the jacket and the vest at the same thrift shop weeks apart. I wish I had been able to locate the trousers.

 

[Mario]

Oh well, that would have made for a wonderful suit. I remember that I really fancied the fabric (bird's eye, wasn't it?).

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'm always a sucker for the belt backs. When I did mine a few years back I was specifically going for the look of Henry Jones Junior's suit in Raiders of the Lost Ark

Check out my tumbler about the look. Ford's cut is a bit different and the jacket is a 2 button, but I loved the look and emulated it a bit for my Laureate suit.

http://mattdeckardapparel.tumblr.com/post/17102087665/yes-everyone-loves-the-leather-jacket-and

 

[reetpleat]

Looks great. I love the belted back, but it is really subtle too, so will not look too costumy. Also, like the simple color. Makes it really subtle. The shoes work great with the tie too.

would have one comment on the vest though, and also the brown one in your first ask andy thread. Back in the day, vests were quite snug and actually held a guy in a bit. I assert this from dozens of vintage suits I have owned where it seemed the vest was too small, but after wearing them long term, I realized how comfortable and right it is to have a vest that is kind of snug, almost a girdle. It holds you in, makes you stand up straight, and looks great.

Now, the problems are, men are a little ponchier (I have become so in the last few years) and modern fabrics are too thin to not look all bulgy and pulled. If I were doing a suit, I would try to use some kind of facing inside that would thicken the front of the vest up to be more like a vintage vest. This is how it strikes my eye, as a guy who likes vintage suits almost exclusively. I realize modern standards may be different.

 

[Marcus]

I'm always a sucker for the belt backs. When I did mine a few years back I was specifically going for the look of Henry Jones Junior's suit in Raiders of the Lost Ark

Check out my tumbler about the look. Ford's cut is a bit different and the jacket is a 2 button, but I loved the look and emulated it a bit for my Laureate suit.

http://mattdeckardapparel.tumblr.com/post/17102087665/yes-everyone-loves-the-leather-jacket-and

Great suits in that scene except for Porkins. Is it me or does he just look out of place costuming wise? Looks like he just walked in from a job interview in 1980.

 

[Mario]

Is it just me or does it have double vents? Looks like it in one photo.

 

[Matt Deckard]

No vents You can see in the screen shot that the shadow doesn't line up with where the seam is going down on his sides. That, and if you watch the movie and see it in motion... it's just ventless.

 

[Mario]

Ok, thanks. Haven't seen the film in a long time and I don't have it on DVD or VHS. Now there's a plan...

 

[AntonAAK]

Magnoli Clothiers do a copy of that Raiders suit. It's their Marshall suit. I have one and it is pretty close Matt's screen grabs. I love the patch pockets - makes it quite informal.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I do love patch pockets.

 

[TomS]

Great suit!!!