My First Trouser Project

[Nick D]

When was the Coffin book produced? Nick, you make your back pockets with the big welt too?

I think it was first published in 2009. I also use Cabrera, I found the jacket directions especially useful. I haven't read Poulin, I'll have to find him on ILL (though I have seen his jacket pocket directions).

No, I double welt my flap pockets, I started doing that after reading the jacket making thread on the Cutter and Tailor forum. Here's a pocket before and after the flap, you can see the pocket bag at the top with the edge turned in to give an idea of width.

 

[herringbonekid]

I think hbk uses Cabrera as his basic go-to book.

i do, but i find it very confusingly described and illustrated. the whole thing could have been made much simpler to follow.
i also don't follow the book's methods to the letter by any means, but use it as something to take the bits i like from.

i don't bother with the top welt / jet when doing rear flapped pockets.

 

[GBR]

Why do you put flaps on your back pockets - they always seem to me to be ugly appendages.

I appreciate that certain UK tailors still use them and fashion troops them out 'for a change' over last season but voluntarily I would not have them unless trying to create a period look

 

[Tomasso]

Why do you put flaps on your back pockets

Furthermore, why even put back pockets on trousers?

 

[Annixter]

Why do you put flaps on your back pockets - they always seem to me to be ugly appendages.

I used a flap this time because I've never made a pocket and wanted to experiment with flaps and welts at the same time to see what I liked and how the process works. I think mine is nice and ugly, but I think one done well like Nick's can be attractive. To each his own I suppose.

 

[Annixter]

Could you show a pic of the inside of the side pocket? I don't think you need to deepen the pocket, just alter how much allowance you're leaving at the top. I make the side pockets poke above the waist seam just 1/4-1/3". This is sufficient to secure in the waistband, the lingin of which will project approx 1/8" below this waist seam. What size is the pocketing you cut before starting to assemble? Poulin advises starting with a 14" square.

Thanks for the Poulin info. Here's a picture of the side pocket. I was shy your 14" once I raised the pocket to completely meet the waistband seam allowance and didn't realize that there would be an issue until well into basting and sewing the pocket. (Note that I used dark thread to easily see my stitches for referencing placement/issues/etc.)

 

[Annixter]

Today I completed the button fly closure and joined the fronts. I think I need to lengthen the sew-on fly pattern about 1" so that it curves down into the crotch further. Also, I had trouble aligning the straight of grain for the underlap piece, as you can see. I cut the fabric on the straight of grain, but once I mated it to the front and pressed it open, it changed the angle. I think next time I'll have to rest the front over the uncut fabric and then pin the pattern.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Are those two pieces sewn together already?

 

[Annixter]

Yes, everything is topstitched, and the fronts are sewn together from the bottom of the fly down to the point.

 

[Qirrel]

Furthermore, why even put back pockets on trousers?

My thoughts exactly. Sure, they have decorative qualities, but I find I never actually put anything into them.

 

[herringbonekid]

i'm not a fan of how trousers look without back pockets.

 

[Rudie]

Me neither. I want at least one back pocket, for purely decorative reasons.

 

[Tomasso]

i'm not a fan of how trousers look without back pockets.

That may stem from its prevalence in womenswear.

 

[Fastuni]

While back pockets are decorative , I also greatly like trousers without them (comfortable).
Particularly more "elegant" suit trousers, where the rear is covered by the jacket anyway.

It's something different with more casual trousers used for combinations or leisure shirts - here I prefer back pockets.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Hmmm, you'll be able to tell us, but this might create an awkward amount of fabric flapping around when you're trying to finish the long seams and waistband. Most guides I've seen have the "central seam" from crotch nick to top rear waistband done in one and almost the final operation. It will almost certainly make the fork manipulations more difficult.

Yes, everything is topstitched, and the fronts are sewn together from the bottom of the fly down to the point.

Re: rear pockets, I like a flapped rear pocket aesthetically. I also use the rear pockets on my trousers.

 

[Nick D]

Most guides I've seen have the "central seam" from crotch nick to top rear waistband done in one and almost the final operation. It will almost certainly make the fork manipulations more difficult.

In this pattern the direction is to sew the fronts together from the inseam edge to the bottom of the fly before putting in the fly (which is a zip in the original) or anything else.

 

[Two Types]

Furthermore, why even put back pockets on trousers?

Handkerchief.

 

[Tomasso]

Handkerchief.

Ah, the 'hanky code' never crossed my mind.

 

[Two Types]

Nothing to do with codes, all about runny noses.

 

[Tomasso]

Nothing to do with codes, all about runny noses.

OK, if you say so.