Worf: The buckle should be attached to the front leather strap with the roller facing the rear of the jacket. The leather strap attached at the rear of the panel should be threaded in the buckle in the normal way. Then take the extra length of the strap that is facing forward and loop it back toward the rear and thread under the roller.
I did a bunch of searches for the old thread without success. If your buckle is attached the way I described, and you use the method of buckling I described, your side panels will stay cinched. Let us know how it works. PC
Thanks for the love everyone. PC, I'll check the buckles in the morning. It's a wonderful jacket, unsure of its age or who did the stitching but it's comfy. I could probably have fit a 46 but I've room for a sweater under this one which'll make it last further into the season. Again thanks all.
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