My Custom Tailor redux

[Feraud]

To post a pic at the Lounge you will need an account like Photobucket. It's free and provides plenty of space.
Just register, upload your photo to Photobucket, and past the IMG code here.
Presto!

 

[Mahagonny Bill]

Now I have a pic and can't get it uploaded! Great!

You need to put the photo on a hosting site, like Flicker, and then link it to your post.

Here is the Photo FAQ:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/FAQ.html#photos

Just trying to help, we're all in this together

 

[filfoster]

photo post

Feraud, Mahagonny Bill, thanks for your help. Our work filters prevent the access to those sites so I will do that when I get home and hope for the best. Thanks again. Phil

 

[mike]

Looking forward to it! And what's the eta on the Old Town schtuff? How did you complete your order? Are they in fact taking international credit card orders now?

 

[filfoster]

Old Town

Looking forward to it! And what's the eta on the Old Town schtuff? How did you complete your order? Are they in fact taking international credit card orders now?

Four to six weeks. Yes, I was able to give credit card info to Miss Willey, in Holt, via email.

 

[Dr Doran]

I GAWT IT.

Awright folks, I pulled the trigger on the My Custom Tailor suit. For various reasons I got a darker "olive" herringbone. It's the 300 dollar "hollywood" something or other style with one button SB peak lapel jacket, a vest which allegedly has some sort of lapel (quite unclear in the drawing), and "high waisted" full-cut trousers. I had to measure various dimensions of my body and used one of my favorite 1940s suits for certain other measurements (e.g. jacket length). I specified EXACTLY how wide I wanted the legs at thigh, knee, and ankle, I asked for 2 inch wide cuffs, suspender buttons, a slanted outer breast pocket (Foyle has one in Foyle's war and it looks good), side adjustors rather than belt-loops, snug fit on jacket, fuller fit on trousers, suspender buttons, and plenty of other good things. I re-measured all my measurements at their (automated) suggestion and found that indeed, I had measured some of them wrong at the first try (as they predict).
So, another month or so.
Let us hope it turns out better than the suit jacket my wife's aunt made me, a DB notch lapel belt-back action back thing upon which she decided to bestow unremovable Western-style "panels" on the upper front, and which is about a 48L when I wear a 42L/43L "so you can vear sveater under ziss." (At least the trousers she made me are utterly brilliant.)

 

[Dr Doran]

Two questions so far.

Does MCT accept rise measurements in the process? The claim of "high waistband" doesn't say much if the rise is low to begin with.

Yes, you measure the "U-crutch" measurement. And they ask how long the ENTIRE trousers are to be, and how long the INSEAM is, subtracting one from the other and consulting the "U-crutch" measurement produces high waist and long rise. Just in case they didn't have long enough zippers for the very, very high rise I prefer, I asked for a button fly, which is cooler and rarer anyway.

 

[Dr Doran]

Suit Rec'd

OK, I just received the suit yesterday. I am wearing it as I type. Hmmm. It's not exactly as I had imagined it would be. I need to keep wearing it today and see if I get used to the lapels, which are rather unusual. Very fat (5 inches wide) and sort of short. I thought it was going to be a one-button jacket, thus allowing the lapels to be fat but long, but it is a 3 button, so they are fat but short; additionally, they just look a little odd. (My wife absolutely loves them, and told me to tell people that the suit was made by speciality tailors for my Hungarian uncle. I do not have such an uncle.)

The trousers are quite nice: as wide as I requested, but (not to be gross) not as much crotch-Lebensraum as a real vintage suit from the Era.

The vest is quite nice: SB with small peak lapels.

The jacket itself is SB as well. The cloth is not as heavy as I expected and hoped, even though the website touted it as very heavy.

The fit is really quite excellent except, as mentioned, that the crotch-Lebensraum is not as much as one might like -- although it is acceptable.

 

[hutch]

Hi Doran. It sounds like your suit turned out well with only a few issues that you can live with. Will you be able to post pics? Thanks for taking the plunge and sharing your experience with us here.

 

[anon`]

Guess what comes next?

That's right...

...pics or it didn't happen!

 

[Dr Doran]

Thanks, Hutch. Well, I just now paid a visit to my normal tailor who does alterations for me in Berkeley and I was wearing the suit. She thought it was well-made and agreed the lapels were somewhat bizarre: she suggested ironing them differently. But that would mean you couldn't see the vest unless you have the jacket open! I'll have to think about it. I can always call the lapels "unusual" rather than "somewhat bizarre" and give a positive spin on it, I suppose ...

The only truly odd thing is that I ordered a 1-button "hollywood" jacket and got a 3 button. Otherwise I quite like it.

I will post pictures after my wife irons it. She promised to do so.

 

[Dr Doran]

...pics or it didn't happen!

A fascinating epistemological assertion ....

 

[anon`]

A fascinating epistemological assertion ....

Isn't it just?

 

[Dr Doran]

Isn't it just?

No, it's rather unjust, as things do exist sans photography -- but no matter, I'll still take pics. I may wait for Joanna to iron it. (She says hello to you [Anon`] by the way.)

 

[anon`]

No, it's rather unjust, as things do exist sans photography -- but no matter, I'll still take pics. I may wait for Joanna to iron it. (She says hello to you [Anon`] by the way.)

Ah, true elsewhere, but not so much on the interwebs. And do pass along my greetings as well, if you would be so kind.

 

[John in Covina]

Current heavy weight fabrics versus vintage. One of the things that has happen in our modern age is the weave has gotten tighter and tighter so the count goes up. As the weave gets tighter the breathability goes down. In the past a heavy weight jacket prodably was a much coarser weave that allowed the fabric to breath and not be so hot as compared to a similar weight fabric today.

Matt Deckard has been hunting for fabrics like the old days and he has said may have found some that is closer to vintage than most.

 

[Annixter]

Doran, I'm looking forward to the pictures. I suppose it is better to have the lapels a little wider than you'd like, or at least wider than what looks good with the jacket, as your tailor could probably cut them down and possibly reshape them if it came to that. Do you know if there is enough material to have the crotch taken out more?

That is a shame about the actual jacket style being totally different from what was advertised and requested. MCT has some absolutely horrible photos and descriptions of their suits. I cannot grasp the logic of an internet tailor having poor photos and descriptions. Nonetheless, when a customer requests a one-button "Hollywood" jacket, it is odd he'd get three buttons. I'm glad it is an overall good fit.

 

[Dr Doran]

Doran, I'm looking forward to the pictures. I suppose it is better to have the lapels a little wider than you'd like, or at least wider than what looks good with the jacket, as your tailor could probably cut them down and possibly reshape them if it came to that. Do you know if there is enough material to have the crotch taken out more?

That is a shame about the actual jacket style being totally different from what was advertised and requested. MCT has some absolutely horrible photos and descriptions of their suits. I cannot grasp the logic of an internet tailor having poor photos and descriptions. Nonetheless, when a customer requests a one-button "Hollywood" jacket, it is odd he'd get three buttons. I'm glad it is an overall good fit.

I'm baffled too ... Yes, I think my tailor could reshape the lapels but .... that might be freakishly expensive, and the lapels as they are have the advantage of being interesting.

Has anyone seen any pictures (probably here on the Lounge) of peak lapels that are short and fat on vintage SB jackets? I'm curious to see if there is precedent.

 

[thunderw21]

...
Has anyone seen any pictures (probably here on the Lounge) of peak lapels that are short and fat on vintage SB jackets? I'm curious to see if there is precedent.

Yes, on 3-button jackets and they are rather short and stubby.

Looking forward to pics of your suit.

 

[Dr Doran]

Yes, on 3-button jackets and they are rather short and stubby.

Looking forward to pics of your suit.

Can I see pics of these short and stubby lapels?