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My Buzz Rickson’s B-15D (1952 model) Jacket

Stand By

One Too Many
Messages
1,741
Location
Canada
So back in the summer, some of you may recall that I was asking a lot of questions of Charles at HPA in trying to determine what jacket to treat myself to with an unusual windfall of cash that was coming my way.

I was feeling drawn to a B-15 as I had all my bases covered with various leather military jackets – but I only have 2 USAF nylon jackets; namely a Buzz Ricksons L2-A and a vintage mid/late-1950s N3-B by Albert Turner.

So I was wondering whether to get a B-10 or a B-15 as I was about to begin a new commuting life and I wanted a jacket that would be warm on a cold platform in Winter but wouldn’t be too warm and cook me in between destinations – and then whether to opt for one by ELC or Buzz Ricksons – and then which ones of the sub- types and materials available (cotton and alpaca versus all-nylon). Charles was immensely helpful (as you will have read) in helping to steer me to make the right decision for myself whilst remaining impartial. He was invaluable in my decision-making process.

And in the end, the winner was the Buzz Ricksons B-15D – the 1952 version in sage green. And I managed to scoop HPA’s very last one in my size! And apparently that’s it. There will be no more for the foreseeable future at least .

So in my order went – for the jacket, plus a pair of Buzz Ricksons original version chinos and another pair of Buzz A-10 gloves (these with rust knit cuffs).

The parcel arrived with tracking and sailed through customs without incident and it was very neatly packed and taped indeed.

I was a little worried if I would like the jacket, I will admit. I mean, would it suit me? And Charles had said that there is a little inconsistency in the batches of materials and there being a little shade variation in some jackets, but he had assured me that the sage green on this last jacket was on the grey side of green, which I wanted, but would I agree? And would it be as warm as I had hoped?

I need not have worried in the least.

The instant that I opened the box and saw the jacket and lifted it out of the box and felt its weight and then felt that Buzz nylon, I knew it was 100% quality and a complete winner – before I even tried it on. It had immediate “Wow” factor for me. And the fit is perfect.

F064D2E7-7C91-4C54-81BB-BEBE024E60DB.jpeg


The first thing to mention here is the nylon.

931E2536-4ACC-47F1-99E3-88A60FE11949.jpeg

As the product description on the HPA website states, Buzz Ricksons nylon is never to be confused with any other manufacturer – and it’s so true. The material feels precisely like my vintage N3-B. It has the same tactile feel and weight and has a wonderful silky feel to it, yet it’s strong. It’s spooky how it feels just like it does (like the vintage N3-B) and it’s a very nice material indeed. It’s sumptuous. And very much windproof as it’s so densely woven. The wind-flap has precisely the same heft as the N3-B too; namely very substantial.

0D05E750-3A12-485F-99E6-0A0728A2C7D7.jpeg


Speaking of material, the hand-warmer pockets are wool-lined in a nice olive drab colour and they are very nice, feel very durable and are not itchy at all. Very nice.

The jacket weight is great and the body has the same wool pile construction inside as my N3-B too – perhaps lighter, but it’s the same style of construction, no doubt. I love the colour of the nylon too – the sage green (with grey tone) feels more contemporary than all of my other jackets and I must admit that I like that much more than I had imagined, especially on my commutes on the subways, trains and buses.

43D681F5-71BE-4B04-A1AE-24668210F872.jpeg


The mouton collar is a superb slate grey/steel blue colour – and it has just a touch of turquoise green so it tones in just nicely with the sage green. It’s such a fantastic colour! The collar has the extra piece to seal up the gap on the throat at the top of the zip, can be stowed and secured with one large button. It feels so nice on a cold day against the back of my neck!

The knitted cuffs and waistband are a great shade of slate grey and are very well made and, compared to an A2/ANJ-3, are long and thick and feel very snug. They are, quite simply, the finest knitted cuffs of any jacket I have ever seen.

The makers label is precision-made and the colours are terrific. It's a shame it will hardly be seen!

The B-15D has two inside pockets too! Very useful!

The large Crown zip is a wonder and it engages flawlessly. It feels very sturdy indeed and is a pleasure to use and is my favourite of any repro zip I have so far encountered. The smaller one on the sleeve is similarly impressive.

716D44A5-FECA-475C-B835-0CCD86C4D391.jpeg


So far, I've worn the jacket in a range of sub-zero temps and it blocks the wind well, so I would say it is a fine alternative to a B-6 or D-1 for those -5C > +5C temperature range. I was amazed when I placed my hand inside the body of the jacket to check what it was like in there and it was lovely and warm in there! The nylon was actually warm and I wasn't missing any alpaca lining, I must admit.

E10DE7F9-89FD-4A6C-A398-EAAF403E30C3.jpeg


CB08F7D1-37D4-4C84-B0E6-1EC65E5CE3B8.jpeg


Bottom line: I love this jacket and it is great value. It has great contemporary looks with fine vintage appeal. It’s a 10.

My grateful thanks to Charles at HPA again for the great advice and the fine customer service and the gentle steering me to my new jacket. I really could not be happier with it.

And my esteemed thanks to Nick123 as ever for his kind assistance in making this post possible.
 
Last edited:

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
@Stand By, that's an awesome jacket!
I was never interested in nylon jackets for the longest time, but about a year ago I suddenly got turned on to them. They are just so warm, light and wearable. A nice alternative to shearling.
I'm loving my MA-1s and B-15C (mod), but the knit collar doesn't keep my neck warm, and I have to wear a silk scarf. So I've been thinking about a regular B-15C with its big blue collar, but your jacket looks superb. I'll have a stooge around for a used one in Japan I think.
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
@HPA Rep, I'd love to see a side by side comparison of BR's nylon shell colors for the MA-1 and B-15D. I bet they aren't the same color green.
You know, I am by no way an expert, but a little learning is truly a dangerous thing. I once spoke to a self-appointed 'expert' who even 'read a book once' (a whole book!) which had 'a lot of photos', and this genius decided that the B-15D (mod) was actually the first real MA-1, and that there was no difference.
Whilst the two share superficial details, the cuts of the jackets are not the same, and I'm pretty sure that Charles can point out many other things of which I am oblivious.
But that collar sure looks good.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
@HPA Rep, I'd love to see a side by side comparison of BR's nylon shell colors for the MA-1 and B-15D. I bet they aren't the same color green.
You know, I am by no way an expert, but a little learning is truly a dangerous thing. I once spoke to a self-appointed 'expert' who even 'read a book once' (a whole book!) which had 'a lot of photos', and this genius decided that the B-15D (mod) was actually the first real MA-1, and that there was no difference.
Whilst the two share superficial details, the cuts of the jackets are not the same, and I'm pretty sure that Charles can point out many other things of which I am oblivious.
But that collar sure looks good.

There seems to be a lot of confusion as to when the MA1 was first issued - I've read a lot of people claiming they were first issued, in *blue*, in the "early 50s". I can only assume those sources misunderstood the B15 mod models. I've seen a repop of a mod B15-B, fwiw, though I don't know how accurate that was. I know C and D mods appeared. I've never seen a spec sheet for the MA1, though; the cut does seem to have gotten bigger (I guess to accommodate the newer flightsuits being worn by then?), while most other details were very similar to the mod jackets (knit collar, nylon outer, wool knits, wool/cotton batting...). In a sense, I've always felt that the MA1 really became its own thing was when they brought the orange liner in. Somehow that's the single detail that sings out MA1 to me the most, for all the changes it had during its lifetime as an issue design. (Amusingly enough, though I have no real interest in menswear much post 1957, I've developed a real soft spot for the later issue MA1, Hunter style, with the orange liner and the pocket flaps. If only I'd have the foresight to pick up a big one in the late eighties/early 90s when the real things were thirty quid in our local surplus store!
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
@Edward, I can only guess that at some point the USAF decided to do away with fur collars due to them being either in the way with hard helmets, and/or a fire risk in the jet age (jet fuel fires and/or ejection fire risk?), and the whole B-15 (mod) thing is a stop-gap measure. They must have realized right there that a new jacket was necessary (can't keep ordering B-15 and sending them back to have the collar switched out) and also decided to include revisions to the cut (less WWII style trim uniform look sized in inches, but a relatively looser style in a much smaller range of generic S, M, L, XL sizes). Seems to be a cost reduction measure?
Who knows.
You should speak to Doctor Damage and start getting into nomex flight jackets whilst they are still cheap! *joke*
But....
That B-15D fur collar sure does look mighty nice.
 

kowalski

Practically Family
Messages
695
Location
303 POLAND
Hi Stand , nice , great jacket.
but I have queastion ; the length Your jacket BR15 is non-standard ? The length Your jacket is consistent with the original plus/ minus ?
I have B15 repro from alpha size M and it's shorter
here B15 vs original alpha MA1 from 67y
 

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Last edited:

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,111
Location
UK
So back in the summer, some of you may recall that I was asking a lot of questions of Charles at HPA in trying to determine what jacket to treat myself to with an unusual windfall of cash that was coming my way.

I was feeling drawn to a B-15 as I had all my bases covered with various leather military jackets – but I only have 2 USAF nylon jackets; namely a Buzz Ricksons L2-A and a vintage mid/late-1950s N3-B by Albert Turner.

So I was wondering whether to get a B-10 or a B-15 as I was about to begin a new commuting life and I wanted a jacket that would be warm on a cold platform in Winter but wouldn’t be too warm and cook me in between destinations – and then whether to opt for one by ELC or Buzz Ricksons – and then which ones of the sub- types and materials available (cotton and alpaca versus all-nylon). Charles was immensely helpful (as you will have read) in helping to steer me to make the right decision for myself whilst remaining impartial. He was invaluable in my decision-making process.

And in the end, the winner was the Buzz Ricksons B-15D – the 1952 version in sage green. And I managed to scoop HPA’s very last one in my size! And apparently that’s it. There will be no more for the foreseeable future at least .

So in my order went – for the jacket, plus a pair of Buzz Ricksons original version chinos and another pair of Buzz A-10 gloves (these with rust knit cuffs).

The parcel arrived with tracking and sailed through customs without incident and it was very neatly packed and taped indeed.

I was a little worried if I would like the jacket, I will admit. I mean, would it suit me? And Charles had said that there is a little inconsistency in the batches of materials and there being a little shade variation in some jackets, but he had assured me that the sage green on this last jacket was on the grey side of green, which I wanted, but would I agree? And would it be as warm as I had hoped?

I need not have worried in the least.

The instant that I opened the box and saw the jacket and lifted it out of the box and felt its weight and then felt that Buzz nylon, I knew it was 100% quality and a complete winner – before I even tried it on. It had immediate “Wow” factor for me. And the fit is perfect.

View attachment 106596

The first thing to mention here is the nylon.

View attachment 106594
As the product description on the HPA website states, Buzz Ricksons nylon is never to be confused with any other manufacturer – and it’s so true. The material feels precisely like my vintage N3-B. It has the same tactile feel and weight and has a wonderful silky feel to it, yet it’s strong. It’s spooky how it feels just like it does (like the vintage N3-B) and it’s a very nice material indeed. It’s sumptuous. And very much windproof as it’s so densely woven. The wind-flap has precisely the same heft as the N3-B too; namely very substantial.

View attachment 106593

Speaking of material, the hand-warmer pockets are wool-lined in a nice olive drab colour and they are very nice, feel very durable and are not itchy at all. Very nice.

The jacket weight is great and the body has the same wool pile construction inside as my N3-B too – perhaps lighter, but it’s the same style of construction, no doubt. I love the colour of the nylon too – the sage green (with grey tone) feels more contemporary than all of my other jackets and I must admit that I like that much more than I had imagined, especially on my commutes on the subways, trains and buses.

View attachment 106597

The mouton collar is a superb slate grey/steel blue colour – and it has just a touch of turquoise green so it tones in just nicely with the sage green. It’s such a fantastic colour! The collar has the extra piece to seal up the gap on the throat at the top of the zip, can be stowed and secured with one large button. It feels so nice on a cold day against the back of my neck!

The knitted cuffs and waistband are a great shade of slate grey and are very well made and, compared to an A2/ANJ-3, are long and thick and feel very snug. They are, quite simply, the finest knitted cuffs of any jacket I have ever seen.

The makers label is precision-made and the colours are terrific. It's a shame it will hardly be seen!

The B-15D has two inside pockets too! Very useful!

The large Crown zip is a wonder and it engages flawlessly. It feels very sturdy indeed and is a pleasure to use and is my favourite of any repro zip I have so far encountered. The smaller one on the sleeve is similarly impressive.

View attachment 106654

So far, I've worn the jacket in a range of sub-zero temps and it blocks the wind well, so I would say it is a fine alternative to a B-6 or D-1 for those -5C > +5C temperature range. I was amazed when I placed my hand inside the body of the jacket to check what it was like in there and it was lovely and warm in there! The nylon was actually warm and I wasn't missing any alpaca lining, I must admit.

View attachment 106591

View attachment 106592

Bottom line: I love this jacket and it is great value. It has great contemporary looks with fine vintage appeal. It’s a 10.

My grateful thanks to Charles at HPA again for the great advice and the fine customer service and the gentle steering me to my new jacket. I really could not be happier with it.

And my esteemed thanks to Nick123 as ever for his kind assistance in making this post possible.

Absolutely Smashing Sir!!! Looks great on you...nice score :)
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,111
Location
UK
Waiting on an Alpha B-15C Replica series from the bay, I'm still a sucker for nylon & in particular that AF Blue...

Buzz make great stuff, just could do with more availability over here in larger sizes, already planning to visit the Nov 18 ELC 'Pop Up' in Shoreditch London.
 

EmergencyIan

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
New York, NY
I noticed the same thing with the Buzz Rickson's M-1941 field jacket that I purchased several years ago. It's the only repro I've owned that feels just like the excellent original that I owned. I was pretty taken aback by this fact.

- Ian
 

MeachamLake

A-List Customer
Messages
363
Location
North West, UK
@Stand By you are one lucky, lucky sod! Sensational looking jacket. I want one of these so badly, but I've just bought the BR L-2, so it'll have to wait. Sage green - proper sage green, not Alpha's version - is a beautiful colour, somewhere between green and grey in person.

I absolutely love the 6021st Recon version of this jacket too - usually I'm not a fan of patches, but I'll be damned if they don't look cool.

You're spot on about the nylon, by the way. I've had an original Skyline N3-B in the past and could not tell the difference between that and my Buzz Gibson N3-B. God knows how they've done it, but the material is nearly identical in appearance and feel. You can certainly tell where the money has gone.
 

Stand By

One Too Many
Messages
1,741
Location
Canada
@Stand By, that's an awesome jacket!
I was never interested in nylon jackets for the longest time, but about a year ago I suddenly got turned on to them. They are just so warm, light and wearable. A nice alternative to shearling.
I'm loving my MA-1s and B-15C (mod), but the knit collar doesn't keep my neck warm, and I have to wear a silk scarf. So I've been thinking about a regular B-15C with its big blue collar, but your jacket looks superb. I'll have a stooge around for a used one in Japan I think.

Thanks Big J - and to all for the likes and kind comments! I appreciate it!
Sorry I'm so slow in replying here - but my access to TFL is severely limited these days with my new bosses (fair enough. Hence Nick's kind assistance in posting images) and busy home life.
Yes, the collar is killer. I'm still surprised by how much I love it! I just feels so good on the back of my neck on a cool/cold day. And it has the nice trapunto stitching like the B-3 has. Very robust.
I have to admit that, like you, I'm totally turned on to the nylon jackets in a way I haven't been before (even though I have a Buzz L2-A and N3-B) and it shows in the amount of times that I actively choose to lift the B-15D out of the closet by the front door this winter - and the B-3 and B-6 are on hangars right next to it! It says a lot to me.
And I've worn the jacket in some very cold weather - we had a day some weeks ago where I went to work before dawn and it was something like +12C and extraordinarily mild for January - and the temps crashed through the day, so by the time I stepped off the train up here, it was -15C and felt like -25C with the windchill! So the jacket struggled naturally enough - but that's why we have B-3's and Irvins and pay what we do for them!
And the jacket performs superbly in the dry - but in wet sleet/rain, the moisture penetrates and it doesn't hold its shape ... a worry I never have with my shearling jackets! The new jacket has a wonderful water-repellant finish - but it doesn't last, alas. I'd love to know how to maintain that, if possible. But that said, the jacket got wet, was hung to dry and went right back to looking as it does the next day! And that's about the only flaw I can find with the design ...
As for the jacket, man, I love it (I think I said that!) and would love something else now - but in the temperature range where I want it (-5C > +5C), I would still want that collar, so a regular MA-1 without that collar just doesn't make sense to me (so one would just need a good Buff) - and yet, I'd love another!
 

Stand By

One Too Many
Messages
1,741
Location
Canada
Hi Stand , nice , great jacket.
but I have queastion ; the length Your jacket BR15 is non-standard ? The length Your jacket is consistent with the original plus/ minus ?
I have B15 repro from alpha size M and it's shorter
here B15 vs original alpha MA1 from 67y

Mine is just a regular size, standard 42.
 

Stand By

One Too Many
Messages
1,741
Location
Canada
@Stand By you are one lucky, lucky sod! Sensational looking jacket. I want one of these so badly, but I've just bought the BR L-2, so it'll have to wait. Sage green - proper sage green, not Alpha's version - is a beautiful colour, somewhere between green and grey in person.

I absolutely love the 6021st Recon version of this jacket too - usually I'm not a fan of patches, but I'll be damned if they don't look cool.

You're spot on about the nylon, by the way. I've had an original Skyline N3-B in the past and could not tell the difference between that and my Buzz Gibson N3-B. God knows how they've done it, but the material is nearly identical in appearance and feel. You can certainly tell where the money has gone.

Thanks MeachamLake - and it sounds like we're on the same page and we both love patches on our jackets - but I'm resisting the urge and keeping this one vanilla! Less-is-more for me with this one.
But yes, the jacket exudes quality and it's so apparent how much R&D went in to it. As you say, the nylon is amazing. It feels so silky but is strong. And the knitted waistband and cuffs are amazing - the best I've ever come across. They're densely woven but not itchy in the slightest. And what a colour ...!
And the zip is buttery smooth. Simply amazing.
And the jacket just looks more contemporary than shearling. It makes a nice change to wear that instead of the B-3, B-6, C-3 vest and ANJ-3 which are all very '40s ...
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
After reading Stand By's thread, I really wanted one of these. All I could find on the Japanese net was the version with the brown fur collar...
Until today!
Just bought a used example of the OP's jacket with that lovely blue/gray collar for half price! Can't wait for that to be delivered!
Just wanted to thank/curse* Stand By for planting the idea Inception style in my brain!

*delete as applicable.
I swear, I said only last week that I had bought my last flight jacket, then I saw this, and now I'm thinking how pretty a B-15c would be even if I'm not Marilyn Monroe. I'm addicted.
 

Atticus Finch

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,718
Location
Coastal North Carolina, USA
After reading Stand By's thread, I really wanted one of these. All I could find on the Japanese net was the version with the brown fur collar...
Until today!
Just bought a used example of the OP's jacket with that lovely blue/gray collar for half price! Can't wait for that to be delivered!
Just wanted to thank/curse* Stand By for planting the idea Inception style in my brain!

*delete as applicable.
I swear, I said only last week that I had bought my last flight jacket, then I saw this, and now I'm thinking how pretty a B-15c would be even if I'm not Marilyn Monroe. I'm addicted.

Yep. The nylon flight jacket bug first bit me in 1976. And (to paraphrase Jimmy Buffett) I still live with the sting.

AF
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
@ Atticus Finch, yes, for sure. Only last week I received my 73 CWU-45/p, and the week before that a 75 CWU-36/p and I honestly thought I was done; two action back nomex jackets, and no interest in anything more modern. But I kept coming back to Stand By's photos on this thread, and then checking out some Japanese sites for a used one in my size.
I've got a variety of variations on the 335th FIS patch, and think I might get my L-2a, B-15c (mod) and this B-15d patched up since they are not originals.
BTW, I saw the pic you posted yesterday of your 72 Alpha MA-1 with TAC patch. It looks really great for a 46 year old jacket. You look like you've lost a lot of weight though. I hope you're well.
 

Atticus Finch

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,718
Location
Coastal North Carolina, USA
BTW, I saw the pic you posted yesterday of your 72 Alpha MA-1 with TAC patch. It looks really great for a 46 year old jacket. You look like you've lost a lot of weight though. I hope you're well.

Thanks, Big J. I actually lost all that weight last year. I went on a pretty strict low-carbohydrate diet in January of 2017. It wasn’t easy because it changed just about everything I had been accustomed to eating for sixty years. But the pounds soon started falling off like crazy. My goal was to get under 200 lbs, so when I got down to 195, changed over to a less strict, maintenance style diet. Now I weigh religiously...twice daily...and have maintained the same weight since October. I’m still not skinny. I wear size XL in just about everything. But my doctor tells me that I’m in better shape now than I’ve been in years.

AF
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,961
Location
Japan
@Atticus Finch, glad to hear that you're doing well, and feeling good! Yeah, low carb diet is really effective, but takes some getting used to. I miss bread and mac & cheese! But I'm way more worried about my arteries, I don't want to have a heart attack before my kids get married.
Kudos to you sir.
 

Atticus Finch

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,718
Location
Coastal North Carolina, USA
@Atticus Finch, glad to hear that you're doing well, and feeling good! Yeah, low carb diet is really effective, but takes some getting used to. I miss bread and mac & cheese! But I'm way more worried about my arteries, I don't want to have a heart attack before my kids get married.
Kudos to you sir.

My doctor has a very dry sense of humor. One day he told me, “Geoff, when you first became my patient...twenty years ago...you were young and fat. Now you’re old and fat, and you can’t be both. So choose one or the other.”

AF
 

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