Mto cafe racer jacket suggestions

[MadCat]

Hey all

I am getting ready to put in an order for another leather jacket. This time I am after a cafe racer in black.

I will most likely have Johnson Leathers make the jacket for me as I have been satisfied with their product.

When putting in the request, what are some of the things I should ask for? I don’t ride so is a bi swing back/yoke/gussets necessary? Should I go with a buco style collar? Hand warmers? One piece back? Leather type?

I am leaning towards horsehide but am open to suggestions.

 

[Bennarion]

I can't do without hand pockets

 

[MrProper]

Hey all

I am getting ready to put in an order for another leather jacket. This time I am after a cafe racer in black.

I will most likely have Johnson Leathers make the jacket for me as I have been satisfied with their product.

When putting in the request, what are some of the things I should ask for? I don’t ride so is a bi swing back/yoke/gussets necessary? Should I go with a buco style collar? Hand warmers? One piece back? Leather type?

I am leaning towards horsehide but am open to suggestions.

Just take a look at the pictures of Cafe Racer and decide what you like. If it's ‘just’ about wearing it anyway, i.e. a fashion item, then functionality won't be the top priority. I don't need hand warmer pockets, gussets or action backs. A one-piece back is a matter of taste. I quite like a back yoke.
Leather doesn't really matter as long as it meets your requirements. I've had FQHH (too stiff for me), veg tanned sheepskin (very comfortable) and Badalassi (very nice, but also a bit stiff and above all loud). I've also had goat, but I didn't like the leather (5* leather). I would probably go for CXSH (steerhide) now.

 

[barnabus]

I think I'd struggle to look much further than the Rugged West Voyager tbh, although it's not MTO.

@MrProper has significant experience with their products.

THE VOYAGER

Rugged West

ruggedwest.co

 

[MrProper]

^^
MTO is possible, but not necessary if you can wear off the rack. My jackets are customised because my measurements are too weird for OTR ;-)

 

[James Lavine]

Hey, sounds like a solid plan! If you're not riding, a bi-swing back or gussets might not be necessary, but they can still add comfort and range of motion. As for the collar, a Buco style is always a classic touch on a café racer and looks sleek. Hand warmers are great for functionality, especially in colder weather. A one-piece back gives a cleaner look, but it depends on the style you're going for. Horsehide is durable and ages beautifully, but steerhide is another good option if you want something a little softer.

 

[Edward]

I owned a Route 66, US made cafe racer type maybe twenty years ago. Bought it at the time to wear to the office (a Perfect style being a bit much for that), sold it again after some time as it just didn't do it for me with a collared shirt. Now I have a few t-shirts again after years of not wearing them, I'm tempted by a CR again. What I find attractive about the design is its minimalism: for me, these jackets are at their best with chest pockets only. I wouldn't consider one with handwarmers now (my last one had handwarmers only; in retrospect it's one of the things I disliked about it). Of course, I never use handwarmers on any of my leathers - if they're on the jacket, it's for visuals alone. They might as well be fake pockets for me.

 

[TelemarkTumalo]

You don't mention whether your needs are for casual wear or for riding a bike. If for riding, do you need inside pockets for armor? Dedicated riding jackets will typically have larger zippers and pulls so that gloved hands can operate. Consider the cuff size/diameter as well and whether you will use a short glove, or a gauntlet style glove.

Langlitz offers their jackets with or without armor pockets and you can add or delete handwarmer pockets. https://www.langlitz.com/product/clackamas-timberline/

 

[MadCat]

You don't mention whether your needs are for casual wear or for riding a bike. If for riding, do you need inside pockets for armor? Dedicated riding jackets will typically have larger zippers and pulls so that gloved hands can operate. Consider the cuff size/diameter as well and whether you will use a short glove, or a gauntlet style glove.

Langlitz offers their jackets with or without armor pockets and you can add or delete handwarmer pockets. https://www.langlitz.com/product/clackamas-timberline/

I do not ride.

 

[handymike]

I truly believe that buying a new CR is a waste of money. If you can wear off the rack sizing, there are thousands of vintage and gently used ones available. You can’t improve on the style by trying to re-invent something. The vintage ones are just cooler with some use.

 

[MadCat]

I truly believe that buying a new CR is a waste of money. If you can wear off the rack sizing, there are thousands of vintage and gently used ones available. You can’t improve on the style by trying to re-invent something. The vintage ones are just cooler with some use.

With my body type I need custom. I went off the rack route many times and doesn’t fit right.

 

[handymike]

Gotcha!
Can you describe your issues? Maybe another style would work better for you.

 

[MadCat]

Gotcha!
Can you describe your issues? Maybe another style would work better for you.

I don’t have issues. But custom jackets tailored to your size are the best, just like all clothing. I just wanted some suggestions on what to ask the maker.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I don’t have issues. But custom jackets tailored to your size are the best, just like all clothing. I just wanted some suggestions on what to ask the maker.

Didn’t you start a thread awhile back with a brand new JL cafe racer that you were selling because you didn’t have the patience to break in a new jacket??
Now you want the same by the same maker?? You just want to know what questions to ask them 2nd time around?
What gives??
B

 

[MadCat]

Didn’t you start a thread awhile back with a brand new JL cafe racer that you were selling because you didn’t have the patience to break in a new jacket??
Now you want the same by the same maker?? You just want to know what questions to ask them 2nd time around?
What gives??
B

I am always open to suggestions.

Just wanted some further input on another jacket I want. Wouldn’t hurt. I mean, it’s gonna cost me over 1k. What’s with all the question marks?

 

[Canuck Panda]

is a bi swing back/yoke/gussets necessary?

It depends on what kind of fit you want. I will always vote for single point shoulder yoke plus pleats, especially if you want to wear it really close fitting.

(from left to right) Johnson / Bates design (by TM) / Langlitz / Buco design (by RMC)

The two on the left are one size smaller than the two on the right.
The three from the left basically has the same type of back design but one is plain back, one has a center seam, and the third one is a size bigger and has pin stripes. It's up to you how clean you want the lower back to look.
The one on the far right has the straight yoke and imo is just not as flattering as the single point western yoke, which follows the natural curve of the human upper back.

Should I go with a buco style collar?

Yes, that is what I would do too, it's classic and clean. The other option is the a bit longer and fold over one. I like the clean Buco one, personal opinion.

Hand warmers?

No. For a clean Cafe Racer I would not do hand warmers. And I would do only one LOWERED chest pocket like the Harley CR or Buco J-57 with only one pocket. It'll be purely decorative, better than nothing, cleaner than two pockets. There is no function of the lower pocket but imo it looks better. For custom jackets you can always get inside lining pockets for storage.

About the pocket height, most CR has the pocket at the same height as the shirt chest pocket. But one inch lower is where the look is at imo. If two pockets style then the middle one (slanted cats eye) is my fav. If single pocket then the one on the right. Most of the CR jackets has the pockets at the height of the first jacket on the left, and in that case there is no need for custom.

Leather type?

I see you've listed your CXL jacket in the Classifieds so I will assume no CXL. Get something softer like Horween Vermont horsehide. It's milled dyed (still aniline) so the color is struck through, black on black no brown core. And the mill dye process also soften the horsehide a lot. It will wear like soft and thin fashion jacket but horsehide strong, the other end of the spectrum from CXL, but still sturdier than the run of the mill fashion hides.

Lastly is sleeve zipper. You didn't specify but I would suggest to put it on top and maybe with a subtle decorative top stitching like the Buco J-57. A Single chest pocket Buco J-57 with a Bates back (with out without center seam) is really the ideal CR for me.

If spending the money for custom might as well build something that is not available anywhere. If the design pattern already exists then just get off rack.

 

[MadCat]

It depends on what kind of fit you want. I will always vote for single point shoulder yoke plus pleats, especially if you want to wear it really close fitting.

(from left to right) Johnson / Bates design (by TM) / Langlitz / Buco design (by RMC)
View attachment 645640
The two on the left are one size smaller than the two on the right.
The three from the left basically has the same type of back design but one is plain back, one has a center seam, and the third one is a size bigger and has pin stripes. It's up to you how clean you want the lower back to look.
The one on the far right has the straight yoke and imo is just not as flattering as the single point western yoke, which follows the natural curve of the human upper back.


Yes, that is what I would do too, it's classic and clean. The other option is the a bit longer and fold over one. I like the clean Buco one, personal opinion.


No. For a clean Cafe Racer I would not do hand warmers. And I would do only one LOWERED chest pocket like the Harley CR or Buco J-57 with only one pocket. It'll be purely decorative, better than nothing, cleaner than two pockets. There is no function of the lower pocket but imo it looks better. For custom jackets you can always get inside lining pockets for storage.

About the pocket height, most CR has the pocket at the same height as the shirt chest pocket. But one inch lower is where the look is at imo. If two pockets style then the middle one (slanted cats eye) is my fav. If single pocket then the one on the right. Most of the CR jackets has the pockets at the height of the first jacket on the left, and in that case there is no need for custom.



I see you've listed your CXL jacket in the Classifieds so I will assume no CXL. Get something softer like Horween Vermont horsehide. It's milled dyed (still aniline) so the color is struck through, black on black no brown core. And the mill dye process also soften the horsehide a lot. It will wear like soft and thin fashion jacket but horsehide strong, the other end of the spectrum from CXL, but still sturdier than the run of the mill fashion hides.

Lastly is sleeve zipper. You didn't specify but I would suggest to put it on top and maybe with a subtle decorative top stitching like the Buco J-57. A Single chest pocket Buco J-57 with a Bates back (with out without center seam) is really the ideal CR for me.

If spending the money for custom might as well build something that is not available anywhere. If the design pattern already exists then just get off rack.

Thanks! Exactly the info I was looking for!

 

[navetsea]

3 panels back, dual zipper, front hem drop, tapered in/ funnel collar band, shoulder drop, double slant chest pockets, long cuff zip, and vertical inside pockets ( what is the name of such pocket? gun pocket?) from both sides of the leather facings