Mothballs

[RHY]

I was looking at a website for Baron's Hats in Burbank that insisted that fur felt hat should always be stored with mothballs wrapped in cheesecloth. Is that the general consensus of those of you on this forum? Are there alternatives? Thank you,
RHY

 

[RBH]

I was looking at a website for Baron's Hats in Burbank that insisted that fur felt hat should always be stored with mothballs wrapped in cheesecloth. Is that the general consensus of those of you on this forum? Are there alternatives? Thank you,
RHY

I use cedar chunks [in the hat box] , but, moth balls will do the job.

 

[Feraud]

I've used mothballs in hatboxes.
Here is a faq you might find interesting.
http://207.218.231.242/~thefedor/showthread.php?t=31627

 

[RHY]

RGH

Thanks. Wil the cedar kill the moths and larve?

 

[NonEntity]

No, cedar will not kill moths or larvae. It will at best keep the moths at bay when the cedar is new and strong, but even then, don't count on it.

To minimize the chances of moth damage of items not to worn for a month or more, things must first be dry-cleaned (cleaned and blocked in the case of fur felt hats), then immediately stored in air tight containers with moth balls/crystals inside, and even then, these protective measures are not absolute.

My mother's house is truly infested with The Moths That Will Conquer Earth. I've learned the hard way that actually the best thing to do is take out your woolens, cashmere, felt hats, etc. once every couple of months year round and just shake them out and lay flat in the light on the bed for a bit, then put them back in the airtight bags with fresh crystals inside before repeating.

Apparently, moths freak out when disturbed and have to face ligh, and they either die or move on, so that's why this periodic airing has never failed to work, even though it's a major hassle.

Again, learning the hard way, i have observed that moths have a discriminating palate--they munch first on the finest cashmere, merino wool, and top-end fur felt, and only if its not available, dine on wool felt and lesser, course woolens.

I have a heavy U.S.-Navy-issue wool pea coat that has never been even nibbled on, even when it was the only wool thing left in my old closet and hung there for decades when I moved away from home. Could be because it's coarse and finely woven, but it's never ben dry-cleaned, and I think that it must have some treatment that absolutely defies moths. I'd pay dearly to know what it is.

 

[RHY]

NonEntity

Thanks for the detailed explantion. Unfortuantely, here in Hawaii, it is impossible to get any hat dry cleaned properly. As for a dry situation, it is kind of hard when the humidity is a constant 70 percent year round. The only saving grace for me is that I live in a condo that is in the middle of a concrete jungle with some plant around. Also, any flying insect is dealt with by one of my six cats.
I am going to keep my fingers crossed and put the hat in some hat cases that are meant for traveling and enclose the hats in plastic garbage bags with moth balls. I did that with some of my mainland winter gear that I have around the house.

RHY

 

[univibe88]

Again, learning the hard way, i have observed that moths have a discriminating palate--they munch first on the finest cashmere, merino wool, and top-end fur felt, and only if its not available, dine on wool felt and lesser, course woolens.

I have a heavy U.S.-Navy-issue wool pea coat that has never been even nibbled on, even when it was the only wool thing left in my old closet and hung there for decades when I moved away from home. Could be because it's coarse and finely woven, but it's never ben dry-cleaned, and I think that it must have some treatment that absolutely defies moths. I'd pay dearly to know what it is.

No kidding! I have given up on Cashmere sweaters. I have had more sweaters attacked. But I have my father's Coast Guard pea coat that is from 1965 and not a sign of damage on it. The dry cleaners won't even touch it b/c it has a large leather "sword guard" along the hip.

 

[feltfan]

Thanks for the detailed explantion. Unfortuantely, here in Hawaii, it is impossible to get any hat dry cleaned properly.

Don't ever dry clean a hat ever. No matter what you hear about it.

There may have been a time when dry cleaners knew how to
clean and block hats or knew to send them to someone who did.
Now is not that time. Many dry cleaners will take your hat and
ruin it for you in the name of dry cleaning, but that is not a process
for 3 dimensional objects... The process is not to be confused with
the suggestion people make on this site to use dry cleaning fluid
(naphtha) to soak your hat, which is a different matter.

To minimize the chances of moth damage of items not to worn for a month or more, things must first be dry-cleaned (cleaned and blocked in the case of fur felt hats), then immediately stored in air tight containers with moth balls/crystals inside, and even then, these protective measures are not absolute.

While I'm sure you're right, I would not recommend having your
hat cleaned and blocked every time you plan to put it away for
a month or more. For one thing, that would cost some of us on
the order of $2000 or more each time a season changes...
but it's also not necessary, though I'm sure it's effective. Remember
that part of the value of a vintage hat in really good condition is that
vintage blocking, which mostly isn't done as well or with the same
variety of shapes any more.

 

[Woodfluter]

Dry Ice?

Feraud, thank you for the FAQ.

With respect to that, has anyone had experience using the dry ice treatment? Not for repelling, but as a cautionary treatment for recently-acquired vintage hats. Seems like it would be simple and safe.

Since the article recommends using it in a plastic bag, sealing it when the ice is gone and leaving it there for 3-4 days after the dry ice sublimates, I suppose it is the lack of oxygen (replaced by CO2) that offs the little buggers.

- Bill

 

[RHY]

Appreciation

Thanks for all the information and suggestions.

RHY

 

[RHY]

Completed Mothballs

Thanks to you all for the information on storing my hats. I finished yesterday with putting in the mothballs and cheesecloth in my storage containers.
RHY

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

With due respect for all your contributions and tips, which lead to the realization that my hats are UNDERprotected by mere plastic bags, cardboard boxes and cedarwood voodoo dolls, I've come to realize that the ultimate quality test of a forum is the degree of "scare factor" it is capable of generating.
Congratulations: this site is about on a par with some of the finer vintage automobile forums I've participated in (specialized in "rust never sleeps", worn out valve guides and, at the worse end of the spectrum, destroyed cylinder heads).
Are moths active in winter?

 

[hatflick1]

Moth Balls

It's my understanding that moth balls are no longer sold in California anymore.
Anybody of that's true? If so, any alternatives other than cedar? A friend suggested fresh, strong sage. I will see if this herb does the job.

 

[carouselvic]

It's my understanding that moth balls are no longer sold in California anymore.

I believe all moths were cage raised in California. Due to recent legislation all moths must now be free range, but castration is another matter all together.

 

[John in Covina]

Mr Freeze.

Feraud, thank you for the FAQ.
With respect to that, has anyone had experience using the dry ice treatment? Not for repelling, but as a cautionary treatment for recently-acquired vintage hats. Seems like it would be simple and safe.
Since the article recommends using it in a plastic bag, sealing it when the ice is gone and leaving it there for 3-4 days after the dry ice sublimates, I suppose it is the lack of oxygen (replaced by CO2) that offs the little buggers.
- Bill

************
Same is used for long term storage of grains (in those 5 gal paint type buckets.)


If you put the hat in a big plastic bag and stuck it in the freezer for a few days the freezing proceese should kill any eggs or larve also, I'd think. They do this with cigars sometimes.