Modern Tuxedo with Yesterday's Specs

[RDOwens]

Fourth Degree Knights of Columbus wear tuxedos. The specifications are simple:

• Black Tuxedo
• Plain White Tuxedo Shirt - pleated and with collar (No wing tip collars)
• Black Bow Tie
• Tuxedo Studs and Cuff Links
• Black Cummerbund (No Vests)
• Black Footwear

The accompanying photograph to these requirements can be found here (page 10; first post, no posting privileges):
http://www.kofc.org/un/en/resources/fourth/general.pdf

My local council has further instructed the local formal wear tailor that he should dress us with besom pockets. What then is recommended is a Cardi Super 150 with notch lapel.

While one fits in with other Knights in such an outfit, I am unwilling to purchase it. I've added a few more specifications to the tuxedo:

• wool
• no vents
• peak lapel
• one-button

This has created an issue in locating such a tuxedo. The only one I can find is this Neil Allyn:
http://www.smarttuxedo.com/Tuxedos-...ilable-1-Button-Notch-and-Peak-Lapels-45.html

OR: http://tinyurl.com/9of6upx

I know nothing of the quality of the above. I may get it, but I got to thinking that vintage may be the way to go. If it is, I have no idea where to begin. I did a search of ebay and saw nothing that would work.

I read through every post of the 141-page Formal Wear Primer. Perhaps my specifications don't line up with what I *think* is correct.

After this rambling, I ask simply: do you have any suggestions for me?

 

[Tomasso]

I did a search of ebay and saw nothing that would work.

There are usually a bunch of new and pre-owned/vintage on ebay that meet those criteria. And then lots more that would need only to have the vents closed to ventless or pocket flaps tucked in or removed to comply.

I know nothing of the quality of the above.

In a word, crap.

 

[RDOwens]

In a word, crap.

I suspected as much. Is there anything you can advise me on to help purchase something that will meet the criteria as well as be something I will be pleased to wear?

 

[Guttersnipe]

Depending on your budget, you could try going made-to-measure.

Hemrajani Bros. of Hong Kong / Costa Mesa, CA travel to the east coast regularly. They have a number of formal suitings in ~$1,000 range here and here.

I've had seven suits and about two-dozen shirts made by Joe Hemrajani and I whole heartedly recommend him.

Brook Brothers has a one-button, peaked lapel tuxedo for $848, although it has flap pockets, which is real, Realy, REALLY stupid. You could have those removed, though. Their website doesn't say anything about the vents however.

 

[Two Types]

Try sticking a 'Want to buy' ad on the 'Classifieds thread here on the Fedora Lounge. There's a good chance someone will have something.
I know it's not ideal, and that some people will disapprove, but look out for a vintage suit - if you can't find the right one, see if you can get a jacket you like, then maybe you can find trousers to match. It worked for me. The fabric of the jacket and the trousers are indistinguishable when the suit is worn, especially since it is usually worn in places with fairly subdued lighting. Like i say, it's not perfect, but I would rather wear almost matching good quality vintage, than low quality modern.
When I last bought a modern dinner suit, I looked at various high-end companies (in London's Jermyn Street etc), but the fabric was all horribly lightweight. I found a nicely priced double-breasted dinenr suit from this company: http://www.lipmanandsons.co.uk/index.htm who do both hire and sales.

Good luck.

 

[Chasseur]

I would second the earlier poster on looking on ebay and other sources for vintage ones. Formal wear is really the easiest place to find vintage clothing for men, especially if you need a larger size. They got worn less than suits and so more have tended to surive in wearable condition. The quality of most of the vintage ones is better than most things made today and its will be much, much cheaper. I've gotten very nice late 1950s black tie/tuxedo set and a white tie/tails set for way less than $100 each.

 

[kiwilrdg]

You might want to think about getting a fairly cheap one for now and then keep an eye out for one at estate sales.
I know it sounds morbid, but there are usually several old dinner jackets getting passed on by the widows of the members of fraternal organizations.

 

[Two Types]

Vintage tuxedos on here:

http://www.american-vintage.net/mtux.html

& here

http://americanvintageclassics.com/mtux.html

 

[RDOwens]

Thank you kindly, everyone. I appreciate the links to sites for vintage tuxedos. I will keep an eye there. I keep looking at ebay; nothing yet. It's possible I may go cheap to get me going until I find something. I have a little bit of time before I need to get started with this.

I do appreciate your kindness. Thank you.