Modern Top Hats and restored originals

[Picard1138]

Beautiful hat! I just found a vintage one in my size on eBay, for what I think is a steal. It seemingly just needs the edge binding redone and a good brushing. Crossing my fingers it fits. If not, you'll see it here for sale...

-Max

 

[dhermann1]

Thanks! Refurbishment cost ten times what the hat originally cost me. But totally worth it.

 

[mayserwegener]

Would it be possible to take a close-up of the binding and other repair work? Thanks!

I just purchased a fur melusine topper made by Christys' of London as my "backup," I'm still trying to find a silk original in my size (and not over $1,000). I will post photos here of the Christys, which I have read is an excellent hat, well received even at the Royal Ascot.

-Max

I believe those are made in the traditional way. Would be interested in more details once it arrives. Also congrats on finding a vintage one.

 

[Picard1138]

I believe those are made in the traditional way. Would be interested in more details once it arrives. Also congrats on finding a vintage one.

Christys' came out on top when I did a few evenings of hard research on modern hat makes. Unfortunately I just found out the supplier I had ordered from is out of stock until further notice, so I'm going to try to find another supplier. Directly from Christys' is another option, but a little more expensive. Fingers crossed....

-Max

 

[Picard1138]

The eBay score arrived today, it fits perfectly and is in great shape and it will be an honor to wear it at my wedding! I could tell it was stored in the original leather hat box all of its life, as the box took all of the beating, the hat is a real survivor. Only the grosgrain edge needs to be redone, the silk, underside, shape, are all in perfect condition! Check it out:



Any suggestions on restorers please let me know.

-Max

 

[mayserwegener]

Super!

This is the finest restore job that I have seen done (see bobx). This is a stiff felt but the procedure is similar. I am not sure you could find anyone that would do it like this one.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?64813-Bowler-edge-trim-replacement

As far as I know Mokuba is the only supplier of this type of silk ribbon. It will not look right without it. Unfortunately Mokuba doesn't do mail order.

I would try PMing bobx.

 

[Picard1138]

Super!

This is the finest restore job that I have seen done (see bobx). This is a stiff felt but the procedure is similar. I am not sure you could find anyone that would do it like this one.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?64813-Bowler-edge-trim-replacement

As far as I know Mokuba is the only supplier of this type of silk ribbon. It will not look right without it. Unfortunately Mokuba doesn't do mail order.

I would try PMing bobx.

Thanks! Great link, I'm going to PM a few of the restorers on that page. I don't think I have the skill to do the ribbon replacement myself, perhaps they would be interested in taking my hat on?

-Max

 

[Chasseur]

Last fall I stumbled across this large high silk hat in an antique shop in the South of France. It is about a 59/ 7 3/8". It just got back from a refurb/polish from Patey's. It was made by M. Martin in a hat shop in the North of France. I got it with the idea of replacing my more valuable Dunlap top hat which has the original leather case. But seeing them side by side I like my old Dunlap better so I'll probably let the French hat go. But I thought I'd preserve the day when I had not one large vintage high silk top hat but two!

Here it is next to my 1913 Dunlap high silk:

 

[jamespowers]

Dunlap was a very high end hat. You did well by keeping that one. Looks like the Dunlap is older too.

 

[Chasseur]

Dunlap was a very high end hat. You did well by keeping that one. Looks like the Dunlap is older too.

Yes indeed. It is funny that you think all hats of a similar style are the same until you do a side by side comparison. Then they you see they are really, really different. The thread we have on the side by side comparisons really illustrates that but this was a first-hand learning experience for me and top hats.

 

[jamespowers]

Yes indeed. It is funny that you think all hats of a similar style are the same until you do a side by side comparison. Then they you see they are really, really different. The thread we have on the side by side comparisons really illustrates that but this was a first-hand learning experience for me and top hats.

Quite right. Some are taller, some are wider and some have a very wide taper while others have a tight taper until it kicks out at the top and bottom.
It seems the older they are the taller they got. I mean aside from that Dr. Seuss nonsense.

 

[Picard1138]

Apologies for not keeping up with this my own thread. Very nice topper, please let me know how you liked Patey's service. I may send one to them for a clean and polish as well.

On that note, I want to mention that I recently acquired a beautiful vintage Knox silk topper that Lounge Member "mayserwegener" found, and I purchased from him. The hat is in near perfect condition and exactly my size. This will the be one I will wear on my wedding day. The other hat I purchased, I found out it fits my father a little better than it fits me, so I am going to have it restored and give it to him as a gift. We may both wear them to the Philadelphia Orchestra's Academy Ball, which is one of the only white tie events left in the area.

I have a further question: what is a good quality hat box to use for these older toppers? I don't have $1,500 for a new leather hat box (my leather bucket is falling apart, as it's probably from the 1890s or so), so restored leather, or strong cardboard alternative are my choices I believe. Any particular box the best?

As always, thank you. Photos coming soon of the Knox topper!

-Max

 

[dhermann1]

You can get a good solid Christy's hat on Ebay for about $50 to $70.

 

[mayserwegener]

Max, You might find a nice vintage case on German eBay. Looking forward to the photos!

 

[Picard1138]

You can get a good solid Christy's hat on Ebay for about $50 to $70.

Unless I'm mistaken, the $50-70 Christys' top hat is a flat fur felt, not appropriate for black or white tie unfortunately. The only appropriate fur felt topper is a grey one, reserved almost exclusively for summertime morning wear, I have been reading. What I needed (which I now have, thanks to awesome Lounge members) was a classic silk plush or beaver fur top hat, appropriate for the most dressed occasions. I now have three of them; two antiques and one new Christys' top-of-the-line fur melusine topper (on its way, review pending shipment arrival).

-Max

 

[Picard1138]

A beautiful vintage Knox silk topper, found by and then purchased from mayserwegener. Perfect fit and finish, this one needs nothing and i will be wearing it as much as I can.






-Max

 

[Picard1138]

And, my review of Christys' fur melusine top hat:

When looking for a modern made, reasonably priced authentic topper, Christys' of London seemed to come out on top. Locks also seems to carry the same exact hat, whether or not it is a rebadged Christys' we may never know.

I ordered their "standard" height (5 1/4" inch crown). The fit and finish is excellent, it is obviously a well made hat and worth the price. True to size (I wear a 60cm, or 7 1/2 US, and this fits perfectly). It is, I believe as close as you can get to the silk look, without it being made of the same material. The beaver melusine is slightly "furrier" than the antique silk counterparts, owing to the fact that the strands of material are thicker than the silk plush. Other than that, it has a similar sheen, though not quite as shiny as the antiques. The Christys' hat is noticeably heavier, and feels much sturdier than the antique hats. I believe they are made in the conventional goss layering method, but definitely a heavier weight. My antique toppers feel much more fragile compared to the Christys, which makes me feel more comfortable wearing the Christys on a more regular basis.

Pros:
Looks great, a true formal topper made by an excellent English hat maker
Heavier weight/sturdier feeling than antiques, which means I would feel more confident about wearing it more often
Currently made and available at a decent price (restored originals in adult sizes retail in the $thousands)
Available in both lower crown, and 1890s-1920s higher crown/flair versions (not available in 1860s "stovepipe" height, however)

Cons:
Slightly "furrier" than silk, but well polished and it looks fine (I found that Selentino's melusine topper was not polished and looked absolutely wrong)
Brim is turned up at the sides more than my liking (but I assume that can be steamed to my taste)

All in all, this hat is excellent. My cons are mere nitpicks. Also, once I shopped around I found it brand new for a more reasonable price (£200, about $340 with conversion and shipping, from Cotswold Country Hats. Christys' retails them for £279 on their own, so I saved about £80. If I were to purchase the taller Christys' topper, I would get it from either Cotswold or Darcy Clothing, both £240).





-Max

 

[mayserwegener]

Max, Looks great! Looking forward to seeing photos of it in action!

 

[Picard1138]

Max, Looks great! Looking forward to seeing photos of it in action!

Thank you again, I can't wait to wear them! I may take a trip up to JJ's Hats in Manhattan to steam the Christys' brim to my liking. I may also have them put a grosgrain ribbon on, in place of the mourning band on the Christys' as well.

Thanks for everyone's help. I hope this thread can help others as well.

-Max

 

[Leacock]

Silk tophats

I have been looking into this and decided that for my inevitable future acquisition of a top hat I must acquire one in silk. Is this very doable? I have not come across any manufacturers of silk tophats and my head as I recall measures 60 cm and is presumably larger than the Edwardian average so an antique one may be difficult.