Mike's Magnoli suit

[mike]

Matt your suit looks great! The specifics and details that have gone into it are really impressive! I've actually got a -slightly- similar one being made by Indy (3 piece black herringbone belted back with vent 2 button peaked lapels etc..) I'll post pictures when it arrives But more importantly, congratulations!

 

[Matt Deckard]

Thanks... I can't wait to see.

 

[Jovan]

Yes! Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[mike]

Thanks... I can't wait to see.

I certainly did get it! I will post pictures maybe tonight.. I might have a lot of trouble getting it to show up well due to lighting... There are certainly issues with it and the more I study golden era suits there are things that bug me about what I have. For instance, I'd prefer a much higher waist pants/vest ratio and the shape of the peak lapels isn't as I'd prefer but it's my own mistake on not being more specific in my order I suppose. It is sadly a (very expensive) learning curve but that's life I suppose.. "A little laugh, a little tear"

anyway! I'll try posting tonight and let you guys comment!

 

[mike]

how to capture this best...

 

[mike]

why oh why is everything so fuzzy?! arghhhh

 

[Matt Deckard]

Armholes are bad... if they were higher the back would be a bit better.

Yeah the waist is low... the split back doesn't quite work right.


How was your experience. For what did you ask?

It looks good though I can see where it doesn't look vintage.

When are we having the drinking party?

 

[mike]

This was my first time having a suit made, and it was certainly a learning experience! Here's some of my thoughts in no particular order...

Is there any way to fix armholes after the fact without incurring severe tailoring charges, if at all?

Next time I will absolutely get measured by someone who isn't drunk and knows something about measuring guys for suits. This sounds funny writing it, but I was happy to have someone atleast helping me at the time! yeesh! hahaha

this is what I ordered...
floating canvas
black herringbone material
2 button single breasted
peak lapels
half belt w/vertical vent
notched lapel vest
inverted pleated pants
suspender buttons on inside
straight pocket pants
single back pocket
cuffed

In another email I know I also ordered a fishtailed back & a back buckle to my pants, something to resemble wahmaker's repro victorian pants to give a nod to the earlier victorian/edwardian style. These options didn't turn out as intended but I let it go as I felt too much adapting after the fact might make for problems in the long run. Again, if this whole thing could be done in person with examples on hand, I think it would perfect the process. (no wonder our grandfathers had suits made that way and not over the internet, what smart folks!)

Indy was very nice quick & friendly in responses & full of suggestions even though I was full of a billion questions on material and various options. I would say if there is any fault, it lies with me as everything begins and ends with measuring & completely micromanaging from around the world the very specific issues that need to go into suit construction. Next time I want to do my best to be measured by the person making the suit. That's certain.

Again as it was my first time having a suit made, I'd never known fabric weight, be it vintage or modern to know the difference between 3 season, winter weight etc.. I know that the few vintage suits I have are quite noticeably a real thick, heavy material that will probably last through several world wars, in some cases they already have. But how can I judge if it's 12, 14 or even 20oz? As a newbie I wasn't sure so I opted for something that would be more comfortable for southern california weather. While in hindsight I should have gotten the heaviest tweed I could find I suppose! Because they don't feel heavy enough at all. I like the way vintage pants lay as the cuff sits on the top of my shoe. For instance, my early 30's austrian made 3 piece as bought from mr.wooster through ebay, it's solid, thick and heavy! Newer, lighter-weight materials feel like they might not even be there at all! It wasn't something I ever investigated prior to having a suit made.

A glaring issue to me is the break between pants and vest, I would prefer a much higher waist and therefore a shorter vest. I also got a chinatown suit in french blue and I think that this issue is more apparent there, but maybe just because it's a lighter color so it's easier to see the lines/breaks in the suit.

If I sound upset with the suits, I am not at all. But it certainly was a learning experience. I wear both these suits almost weekly, often get compliments (or asked "why the hell are you so dressed up, you're just at work") and I really like them. I should have only gotten one done at a time but I have barely any self control at all! hahaha I am not loaded by any means, I got more back on my tax returns last april than I was expecting and so put it to my Magnoli order. I definitely plan on having more suits made in the future and I learned a lot about suit construction and what I need to comunicate better and how searching out the correct fabric is key.

What else can I say... I'd like to get this get to together you speak of happening real soon! Anything going on this friday night?

aaand I'm off my pedestal FINALLY lol

 

[Matt Deckard]

You can have really great suits made online, though unless they really know how it's supposed to look and fit in some cases, the suit just wont turn out right.

The vest looks better than previous Magnoli suits I have seen.

Trousers look a bit tight in the crotch.

Ad i think I'm moving this suit to the Magnoli thread.

Was this inspired by the suits tim or I had made?

 

[mike]

You can have really great suits made online, though unless they really know how it's supposed to look and fit in some cases, the suit just wont turn out right.

I knew what I was looking for, modern recreations of the great suits I've got and/or have seen. Perhaps though the issue is I do not know how to ask for it as I'm new to having suits made from scratch and know what looks I like but not how to construct those looks...?

The vest looks better than previous Magnoli suits I have seen.

Trousers look a bit tight in the crotch.

I think some other magnoli/my custom tailor customers have had similar issues with this?

Was this inspired by the suits tim or I had made?

Tim's is what inspired me and Magnoli's site. I didn't know what you were already in the works with, or I would have opted for something a bit different, so we wouldn't look like a gang if we showed up to the same place wearing black three piece action backed suits!

 

[kools]

Mike...that looks like a Magnoli shirt you're wearing in the pics. Are you happy with that?

 

[mike]

Mike...that looks like a Magnoli shirt you're wearing in the pics. Are you happy with that?

Indeed! I got a blue work shirt aswell which I also really like! Next time I'm going to play with the exact measurements a bit, but I think they are both great shirts! I don't want it to seem like I'm down on my suits, Indy is a very nice guy to work with & I'll hopefully be his customer again soon

 

[Jovan]

Honestly, I would have a look at some vintage coats before you try anything like it online. It would help a great deal for what fit, etc. you're trying to achieve. The new '50s suit I have, for example, has high armholes. Not as high as many Victorian or '60s mod coats, but high enough to not look silly when lifting your arms. I think now I have a better idea of what I want in a custom suit. Check out the local thrift stores for anything remotely in your size even if you hate the style. Lift your arms and make sure the coat doesn't lift up too much. Get a measurement from that armhole and ask your tailor to adjust the armholes to that size. Mine are about 19" around, but I bet anything I could go smaller and still be comfortable. I have a better idea of what I want now from owning a vintage suit.

Just a thought. [huh]

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I'd like to see some more natural photos. I think the Deckard test is great for proper fit and for reassurance that your suit fits right. But, to a casual observer, one needs to see what it looks like with you living in it; I would like to see some more casual photos.

Tailoring and fit is a dynamic process we are always refining. Just as you think you've got it right, you drop ten pounds or gain it!

 

[mike]

Honestly, I would have a look at some vintage coats before you try anything like it online. It would help a great deal for what fit, etc. you're trying to achieve. The new '50s suit I have, for example, has high armholes. Not as high as many Victorian or '60s mod coats, but high enough to not look silly when lifting your arms. I think now I have a better idea of what I want in a custom suit. Check out the local thrift stores for anything remotely in your size even if you hate the style. Lift your arms and make sure the coat doesn't lift up too much. Get a measurement from that armhole and ask your tailor to adjust the armholes to that size. Mine are about 19" around, but I bet anything I could go smaller and still be comfortable. I have a better idea of what I want now from owning a vintage suit.

Just a thought. [huh]

I'm not completely sure if I'm following you here, pardon me if I'm not, but I've done what you suggest. I did give a measurement that would make for as snug an armhole as how my vintage jackets fit. For me, I believe it was a 17.5" armhole. It doesnt' seem that such a thing can be altered at this point or that any further steps can be taken, no?
Although, now that I am looking back on my measurement notes, I've also for the first time turned the actual jacket inside out and measured the sleeve seam and it measures 24.5"... a far cry from my 17.5" measurement. I'm afraid it seems far too late to do something about this. And wouldn't this take a complete overhaul if not recreating the jacket from scratch to make this armhole issue jive with my measurements?

 

[mike]

I'd like to see some more natural photos. I think the Deckard test is great for proper fit and for reassurance that your suit fits right. But, to a casual observer, one needs to see what it looks like with you living in it; I would like to see some more casual photos.

Tailoring and fit is a dynamic process we are always refining. Just as you think you've got it right, you drop ten pounds or gain it!

I'll see what I can do. I dont' have a tripod, I'm balancing my camera on its side propped up against a book & the lighting in here is terrible! Plus getting a a black suit to register on camera isn't so easy under normal circumstances. I'll outsmart that darn suit though, just you wait
But in all seriousness, thanks for the interest and I won't count the suit out yet

 

[Jovan]

I think that's a little ridiculous that they strayed that far from your measurement. That's a whole SEVEN INCHES. You should automatically get your money back or at least have the thing remade the way it should be.

 

[Matt Deckard]

An armhole cannot be fixed if it is too large.

And the circumference of the armhole isn't what makes a jacket comfortable. The armhole being correct depends on the shape of the armhole and the closeness of the seam to your armpit.

You can have a huge armhole though if the seam is right under your armpit it could feel like a great fit. Jackets with large shoulder padding usually have larger armholes though with the seam close to the armpit it will feel fine.

That suit you had made is obviously not right up under your armpit which is why it rides up so much.