McCartney's 3-Piece and the 2nd death of the 3-button

[Senator Jack]

Certainly, another one of my threads that isn't for everyone. Some may find it interesting, though, and want to use for reference.


These caps are from the newly restored version of Help. Paul was suited with an interesting combo - high gorge three (or possibly four) button with vest. There seems to be a button on the breast pocket? The last closeup gives good detail of the material. Doesn't look like it came cheap. In fact, all the boys' suits are perfect fits.

It's a shame that the three/four button suit is dead again - killed by the overexposure in the 90s. Here's a Hugo Ball example.

If you look at Paul's material, you can see it's a heavy wool and it envelopes him perfectly. The three-buttons produced by Ball, Kenneth Cole, et al, follow the Armani model of drapey Italian lightweight material. I automatically think 90s trying-to-be-chic banker/stockbroker/IT guy when I see the latter and perhaps that's why there are thousands of them on the discount racks these days: everyone else thinks the same. Can the three button make a comeback or is it doomed to domancy for another thirty years?

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Alan Eardley]

I have a similar heavy wool three piece (a Montague Burton) from this period. You're right. The fit and drape are first class.

Alan

 

[Hondo]

I also agree, first class suit, the mid 60's were an awesome period, clothes, styles, material. British invasion brought class to America; only wish I could fit into a suit like that, Notice the style of suits today are a take off from the Beatles suits, high lapels? Its not for everyone

 

[dhermann1]

"Say no more!" . . . "I can say no more!"
Just curious, where does the old 3 button suit where the top button is never buttoned fit in? That's what I would like to find.

 

[herringbonekid]

i didn't realise that the 3 button suit was dead. All of my 1940s english suit jackets are 3 button (it was standard back then) and they look great. Bad suits are just bad suits, however many buttons they have.

 

[Senator Jack]

Just curious, where does the old 3 button suit where the top button is never buttoned fit in? That's what I would like to find.

You telling me you didn't read my article on buttons?

i didn't realise that the 3 button suit was dead.

The market's definitely looking to get away from it right now. I've seen more than a few houses producing single buttons over the last year, but of course they got it all wrong. They're trying higher gorge two button affairs, too.

And when I mean dead, I mean dead as far as being in vogue. Unfortunately, I think by next year any sort of three-button is going to elicit comments of 'that suit is really nineties,' even thogh it may be from the thirties/forties/fifties.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Alan Eardley]

I think the tailoring scene in the US is very different to that in the UK.

Alan

 

[Brian Sheridan]

i didn't realise that the 3 button suit was dead. All of my 1940s english suit jackets are 3 button (it was standard back then) and they look great. Bad suits are just bad suits, however many buttons they have.

Except my four button - that just looks plain wrong now!

 

[herringbonekid]

FOUR buttons (or more) i can see dating badly. but i don't see 3 buttons looking out dated at all. 2 is the safe option, but 3 is classic enough to stand whatever the fickle hand of fashion can throw at it.

 

[reetpleat]

While the Beatles popularized a trim snug fit, it had laready been in the works from the late sixties, but they brought a certain flair to it. I like it. But sometimes it looks a little too odd and specific to the period. That said, this suit is not that. It is not the classic four button kind of edwardian but snug distinct beatles suit or the collarless fab four thing.

This suit looks to be a well tailored traditional saville row or something like that. Very classic and timeless. I love it.

As far as what is in now, I think it is less that the three button was overdone. I think that since designers need to keep changing styles, and that the seventies is kind of in now iin fashion, that they are just using the late sixties early seventies styles rehashed. I do have issues with that. On the otherhand, it has now made selling seventies suits on e-bay viable.

In the late nineties, I sold a ton of sixties three buttons in SF with the line, in this light muted fabric and three button style, you will be able to wear it to work or out and look like you are in a very expensive modern designer suit.

In the early 2000s, I wore them for real estate and did not feel like i looked vintage at all. With a modern shirt and tie, I looked pretty passable. But without the cost and discomfort of a modern suit.

 

[Senator Jack]

Yes, I've posted this one before. Pierre Cardin's first men's line, 1950. Fellow on stage right is wearing a four button model. The 4b continued through the 60s and resurfaced in late 80's early 90s. Actually, I've seen 19th century pictures of single-breasted 4 and 5 buttons. I've always thought they looked particularly good on tall men.

The Beatles' collarless was based on Pierre Cardin's. Something tells me they're about to be revisited by the fashion world.

Regards,

SJ

 

[herringbonekid]

Actually, I've seen 19th century pictures of single-breasted 4 and 5 buttons.

the 4 button is basically a victorian business suit !

 

[Alan Eardley]

Yes, and in some parts of the world, collarless jackets (as well as stand collars) were the norm before 'Global fashion' came along. Most of fashion is borrowing.

Alan

Yes, I've posted this one before. Pierre Cardin's first men's line, 1950. Fellow on stage right is wearing a four button model. The 4b continued through the 60s and resurfaced in late 80's early 90s. Actually, I've seen 19th century pictures of single-breasted 4 and 5 buttons. I've always thought they looked particularly good on tall men.

The Beatles' collarless was based on Pierre Cardin's. Something tells me they're about to be revisited by the fashion world.

Regards,

SJ

 

[Senator Jack]

Yes, and in some parts of the world, collarless jackets (as well as stand collars) were the norm before 'Global fashion' came along. Most of fashion is borrowing.

I'm probably quite wrong, I seem to recall pics of the collarless in a Balkan setting circa 1910s/20s?. For some reason, I associate them with that region and era. Can anyone dig them up?

Regards,

SJ

 

[Sefton]

That picture of Pierre Cardin's suits is amazing. He was really ahead of the curve. The hat's are very narrow brim for 1950 too. I'd love to see some color photos of those suits.

 

[Benny Holiday]

From what I see here, the three-button suit is still well and truly in its prime. However, please bear in mind, gents, that this is Australia after all, where suits usually means a cheap polyster or microfibre suit from the local trendy menswear shop. men who appreciate and know how to really wear suits are few and far between here, even amongst the legal set, I'm afraid.

 

[Jerekson]

Due to pop culture and other modern influences, I hate three button suits.

Something about the NBC newscasters seems so...forced.

 

[Senator Jack]

The 3b was originally killed with the Kennedy inauguration. Eisenhower wore 3bs through his two terms and they quickly came to be seen as a representation of stodgy Republican America. In the 90s they were re-introduced as a hip, young man's suit. As I wrote, they're now again being seen as dated.

Regards

Senator Jack

 

[Dixon Cannon]

Cor blimey, mate!

I'm dead chuffed! That Paul - 'e's a good lad! Flippin' heck, those threads are right gear, mate! Thank ya very much!

Now 'er's one of Ritchies from the old days. It's on bloody eBay, ya know? http://cgi.ebay.com/1963-RARE-ISAIA-SUIT-TUXEDO-FOR-THE-BEATLES-RINGO-STARR_W0QQitemZ140118015366QQihZ004QQcategoryZ3001QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

***Don't usually allow Ebay links... though since I don't think this one is going to promote competition I'll allow it. -- Deckard***

-dixon cannon

 

[herringbonekid]

so Jack, do YOU think they look stodgy and dated, or are you just reporting what you see as the current fashion mindset ?