Matching the pocket square to the tie

[kbadr]

I'd always read that matching the pocket square to the tie was a very dated thing that should be avoided. I believe I read that it was popular in the 30s for a while, but generally the pocket square should be matched to the shirt. It all sounds reasonable to me.

Last night I glanced at my Spring issue of Classic Style and noticed that, lo-and-behold, the sharp-looking photo on the cover has the pocket square matching the tie quite nicely. So...is this just another one of those "if it looks good, it looks good" things, or is there actually a "rule"?

(on closer examination, I see colored stripes on the shirt that match the color of the pocket square, so maybe that's my answer)

 

[A.R. McVintage]

It appears they're going for a bit of a monochrome. The green in the square is the same family as the suit, and the orange is the same as the tie/shirt stripes.

 

[Josephine]

For what it's worth, I've read this:

ROOKIE – Wears points up, white pocket squares with everything. It is always elegant.

INTERMEDIATE – Wears a solid colored pocket square that matches a color in either the shirt or tie.

ADVANCED – Wears a solid colored pocket square that matches a secondary color in the jacket, shirt or tie. Alternately, may wear a fancy square that matches a major color in jacket, shirt or tie.

EXPERT – Wears a solid colored pocket square that does not match, but coordinates with a color in the jacket, shirt or tie. Also may wear a fancy pocket square that matches a secondary color in the jacket, shirt or tie.

WORLD CLASS – Wears a multi-colored pocket square that does not have the same color, but compliments the jackets, shirt or tie.

from M.S. McClellan

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I suspect the rule you've heard is against having the pocket square and tie in the same fabric. I can't say tht it's wrong, but it has a habit of looking quite tacky. It can work though.

The kind of co-ordination you see on the Classic Style cover is pretty much perfect. Note: they do not match, they co-ordinate. It is very hard to make it look that good.

bk

 

[kpreed]

Hello, I always match the pocket square to my tie and so far it has been pretty easy as my suit has pinstripes, my ties tend to be a solid color, but now with a multi- color tie I am going with a square that is the same as my shirt. I have been told to match my tie for many years, but I see that can make a problem, so I guess I thought I knew, but don't. Sorry I can not help. I have a new problem I did not know I had.:eusa_doh:

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I know it's not the case, but i'm having visions of our members desperately trying to find pocket squares in exactly the same fabric as the tie or shirt (i.e. matching), rather than finding ones that look good with the overall ensemble (that is to say, co-ordinating).

I have seen some great examples of matching ties and pocket hankies. They were very popular in the late 1920s as Christmas and birthday gifts for dad.

But, be clear. The pocket square on the Classic Style cover does not match the tie. Matching implies that they are the same.

bk

p.s. I am having terrible remembrances of a FLounge argument about whether some ties were brocade or not - for the record they were not; they were woven silk typical of mid-1930s high end ties - from about a year ago or so. The same type of semantic issues abounded there.

 

[A.R. McVintage]

Gotta agree with the Baron, here.

Maybe it's because I'm a physical artist (less so than my father, but still...) but it's very easy for me to coordinate color families to tie something together without having identical shades/patterns as long as you're aware of color relations.

For those members not as artistically inclined, I'd seriously suggest getting some of those paint shade cards from your local home improvement center. Those will teach what shades are related fairly easily.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Colour wheel! Indispensible golden era menswear accessory . . .

bk

 

[kpreed]

I guess I dodged the"matching" bullet as my pocket squares are just the same color as my tie, but never is the fabric is the same (just luck). Example from me on Halloween.

Now I feel better. Thank You!:eusa_clap

 

[kbadr]

But, be clear. The pocket square on the Classic Style cover does not match the tie. Matching implies that they are the same.

Yeah, I see that now. When I looked at it last night (in lower light) I thought they were actually the same exact color. To your point though, it didn't occur to me that matching implied that they are exactly the same. Guess that makes sense, though.

 

[Feraud]

I would like to eventually get a vintage matching tie and pocket square combo.
It has to be done just right to look good but I am willing to experiement.

 

[Edward]

It's all about coordination for me. One of my favourite combinations of late is a moss green moleskin waistcoat with a yellow cravat that has green and red detailing in the pattern, and a white-with-red pocket square. None of them are obvious matches, but the detailing in the cravat ties them together.

 

[dhermann1]

I remember a Lord Peter Whimsy episode where he wryly refers to a rather vulgar person's tie and hanky matching as "most unfortunate", or words to that effect.

 

[Tomasso]

I concur with and have nothing to add to the Baron's insightful comments.



fftopic: The choice of pocket square for the CS cover was, how do you say, :eusa_doh:

 

[The Wingnut]

Personally, I'm not convinced. I don't think there's really much of a problem with a matching tie and handkerchief set as long as it's matched tastefully to the suit. I'm having a set made from '30s vintage NOS silk stock from the New York Sulka store, a fantastic material in blue, brown and white. The tie will be four-fold and made exactly as '30s ties were.

Does a matched set show a lack of imagination? Possibly. Personally, if I had a nice vintage matched set, or one that goes well with a particular suit and hat / shoe combination, I'd want to show it off!

'til now, I've had few handkerchiefs other than simple white cotton, which works for just about anything. People act as if there was no such thing as a matched set in the golden era, which is incorrect as NOS matched sets can still be found...it's just that handkerchiefs are difficult to find as they were easy to lose, and quite possibly were used more for their intended purpose than just as a decorative touch! So many guys fuss over how the hankie sits in their pocket when they don't consider that many were just unceremoniously stuffed back in there after suffering considerable abuse in front of the owner's nose, or to clean up other messes such as spilled coffee.

I think we're getting back to pigeonholing ourselves in the 'rules'...there are none, simply guidelines(unless you consider black or white tie). Bend or break them at your own risk. Try to use good judgment as to what works and what doesn't.

 

[Edward]

I can see where you're coming from, Wingnut, and I agree that it would be very easy to box ourselves in with more unnecessary rules... I think, though, what most folks round these parts are wary of isn't so much the matched set idea per se, but the danger of it looking like a costume rather than clothing, somehow cartoony - you follow?

Your set sounds interesting - love to see photos when it's done.

 

[The Wingnut]

It's done! It's either coming in the mail or I'll be picking it up at a forthcoming Christmas party. Can't wait!

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Personally, I'm not convinced. I don't think there's really much of a problem with a matching tie and handkerchief set as long as it's matched tastefully to the suit.

You're right. If the wearer has "the eye", as it were, this can be done very successfully. Most people do not have the eye; hence the warnings. Grey vs brown is different. i don't know what kind of damn eyes you need to have to see that as bad (not you, wingnut, i refer to the previous argument)

People act as if there was no such thing as a matched set in the golden era, which is incorrect as NOS matched sets can still be found

Yes. A noteable online seller had a bunch of them (20s sets) a little while ago. they were priced somewhat higher than his usual offerings. They were in garish paisley designs. I believe "the real henry" bought one of the sets.

I think we're getting back to pigeonholing ourselves in the 'rules'...there are none, simply guidelines(unless you consider black or white tie). Bend or break them at your own risk. Try to use good judgment as to what works and what doesn't.

yes.

bk

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Found the one i've been thinking of since this thread started. Here is an example of a 1920s or 1930s matching tie and pocket square set:

bk

 

[Feraud]

I dig it!
Is this your set BK?