Making an ANJ-3

[fishmeok]

Moving along. Unfortunately I guessed the cut of the back wrong giving me a pretty sweet '80's vibe to the back of the jacket. This one is going to be strictly a practice piece. I like the collar and the liner is coming along well.
Cheers
Mark

 

[rgraham]

Coming along nicely. That inside pocket looks great.
The shot of the back looks like it's a custom tailored fit. I'm sure it will end up just fine.

 

[fishmeok]

I think you're doing very well. It's obviously single needle work, but that gives a good 'vintage' impression, I think. I'd seriously consider going along with the suggestions here and seeing if you can provide a commercial service, if I were you.

The epaulettes on an A-2 are about the hardest sewing you can do IME. I recently restored one (a Dubow) and ended up hand-sewing the shoulders as the machine wouldn't 'cut it'. I think you started the box stitches before you attached the epaulettes? Would you do it that way again, may I ask?

Actually, I prefer hand-sewing (if I have the time) for many restoration jobs. If you do it properly you can't tell the difference.

I would definitely be nervous about using a machine on an original, but I have not tried that yet. My really big issue with restoration would be getting authentic hardware, the correct shade liner, etc. I know John Chapman hand-dyes his knits and liners to get the correct color. My A-2 knowlege is a little shakey in those areas, I got interested in making things before I mastered the subject, so to speak.

Epaulets really are not that bad once you get some practice in. Sew the top and bottom together making the 4 parallel lines, then sew the epaulet to the jacket using the "x" stitching (after joining the front and back panels, but before putting on the collar and sleeves). Getting over the shoulder seam for the topstiching requires a pretty serious industrial machine. My old Singer 78-3 will do it most of the time, but I have to baby it along over the thicker parts. Another thing to do is trim the seams as much as possible so you are only sewing over 3 or 4 layers at a time. No machine is going to be able to pound through 5 layers of 2.5 to 3 mm leather then abruptly drop down to 2 layers without some thread tension issues and possible missed stitches (ok, maybe one of those REALLY expensive industrials that cost $2-3 K, but I'm being realistic about what we are going to be able to put in the front room).

I finally bit the bullet and bought a newer machine today, a Singer 211G465 (extra large bobbin) compound feed industrial. Still no reverse, but that really has not been a problem so far. It has a working presser lift of 1/2" compared to the 3/16-3/8" of my 78-3. It's also about 40 years newer...
Should be getting it next week, it will be fun to see how it compares to what I have been using.
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Fishmeok, this ongoing project is getting really interesting. You're producing some high quality work.

On this jacket, I really like the cut of the pocket flaps. The underarm arrangement is also beautifully done.

I think it's almost time to go commercial. People would be — in fact, re-reading some previous comments they already are — forming a line round the block to get a Fishmeok original Future Classic.

Thanks- it took about 7 practice flaps to come up with a pattern I really liked. The underarm gussets are fairly easy to do, but the 422A/G-1 sleeves with gusset are made very differently from an A-2. The A-2 has a single side seam, from the waist knit to the cuff, with the body portion top stitched later. The Navy jackets have the body side seam joined first, then the arm/gusset sewn into the hole, then the armhole/shoulder top stitched.
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Nice work on the arm gussets. I must ask you one day to install a pair in my Bonanza steer A-2. I lift my arms much beyond 45° and it says "whoa!"

Fletch, this would be a great do-it-yourself project. No real problems that some determination and practice wouldn't solve. The gusset itself is just a football shaped piece with a small seam sewed down the middle do make it fold in the right place- I think you mentioned before that you had a machine?
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

AS done as it's gonna get...

I finished it a best I could today- the pattern is just too wonky to make it wearable. I hoped it would turn out better, but that's why it's a test jacket. Fun to do, but a pricey little hobby I've got going here. I'll keep this one to try different things on, and keep practicing.

Beer on one side, coffee on the other. That's how I roll...

This ended up being one odd looking jacket. I have lots of work to do.

 

[omar]

ANJ-3

Boy I'm impressed! As a guy who has done some time on a sewing machine on both jackets and car upholstery { for the same reasons as you; why pay someone else to do what I MAYBE can do} I never thought about scratch building; right now I've got a really beat Imperial G-1 apart that i"m putting a leather collar on with new cuffs and waistband . I also sometimes hand stitch when it seems best, although I've developed some tendonitis from my single minded approach. Actually, the whole reason for my response was just to encourage you to keep us posted on your further adventures; this is the stuff dreams are made of!

 

[fishmeok]

Hey Omar, you in the cities?
Cheers
Mark

 

[omar]

Where am I??

Hey Mark, I just noticed you were in the cities; I'm up on the North Shore in Two Harbors, and like everyone else up here have friends and family in the cities. I'm down there for a week in june for the big Back to the Fifties car show; I got into jackets through my passion for 40's era hot rods; I'll post pictures of my jacket project when I get it done. Hope your winter down in the banana belt is better than the ice age we've got up here!! Best wishes, Omar

 

[fishmeok]

Yeah, I know how it is- I grew up in Duluth. The winters down here are pretty wimpy in comparison, but on the other hand a person can actually find a job....

What jacket are you making? What machine do you use?
Cheers
Mark

 

[omar]

update

I think I mentioned this project in a previous post; It's a salvage job, a board stiff Imperial G-1 that had bad cuffs and collar, but other than that good leather. I'm basically turning it into a G-2, sewing in a a-2 style collar with new cuffs, and a lot of general repair; nothing like what you're doing, but you sure got my wheels turning! I'm probably going to paint Flying Tigers graphics on the back. As far as my machine, believe it or not all I've got is one of those old black singer portables, {the ones that come in a kind of suitcase}. But with a good needle it has never not sewn through anything!, It's not a walking foot or anything like that, How about you? Any tips you could pass on I'd love to hear; I think I am going to have to try and scratch build one now. And yeah, you're right I've been self employed for almost 20 years, you got to make a living with your wits around here. Oh by the way, my P-51 picture posted here is at the Duluth airshow; Seeya, Omar

 

[holdemchamp1225]

All I can say is WOW Fishmeok...

wish I had the skills to make my own custom jacket. Keep up the good work and all of us updated on future projects