Making a Western hat by hand?

[Yahoody]

For my own hats I try to pinch every bit of brim that I can out of a hat body. Because of that I don't usually get to self band my own hats. I did build a hat for a buddy the other day and he wanted (silly I know) a shorter brim. So I made two cuts and was able to get enough material to self-band one of my size 7 1/2" hats with a black self band.

With a tiny spot of sterling silver to make a black hat really "pop" I am really liking the end result.

 

[CWHats]

Hi Yahoody,

I have been doing research all over the internet trying to learn how to make a quality hat. (I have purchased the book you recommend but it hasn't come yet.) This is by far the most informative thing I have found! Thank you!. I do have a couple questions that maybe you can answer though. Is the hatters knot something special or will any tight knot work when blocking a hat?

I am still trying to learn what hat block to buy too. I am only interested in making a cowboy hat for myself and maybe family. Maybe you could go a little more indepth on that subject. Do you buy a different block for different head sizes? Or is it the same block and then use a stretcher on the band (where the crown meets the brim) to achieve different sizes?

Again thank you for all the information it has been a big help for me and I'm sure anyone who reads it!

 

[Yahoody]

> Is the hatters knot something special

Hatter's know is a simple slip not. Knowing how to tie the hatter's knot or something similar will make blocking you hat a lot easier and you'll get a better hat for the effort. Take the time to learn how.

>I am still trying to learn what hat block to buy too.

There are different open crown styles and heights. You'll want to have an idea of what you want in a finished hat (crown height and style) before buying a hat block.

>I am only interested in making a cowboy hat for myself and maybe family

You need a hat block for virtually every hat size you want to build. They aren't cheap @ $200 a pop or more.

>Do you buy a different block for different head sizes?

yes (bummer)

>Or is it the same block and then use a stretcher on the band (where the crown meets the brim) to achieve different sizes?

A decent hat body can be stretched some. But just as likely a way to wreck a good hat body. Bigger hats can be reblocked to a smaller size on a smaller hat block generally with no harm. I taken hats from a 7.5 down to a 7 and stretched a 7 1/4 to a 7 1/2. But both are just band aids imo for a properly sized hat.

>Again thank you

You're welcome. FWIW I didn't find the book I recommended earlier all that helpful. Better than nothing.

 

[Mustang Mike's Hats]

Each crown block has it's own size and height. Also, each block has a style "shape". You'll read where one hat is a #51 style block 5 1/2" height, or a #52 5 3/4" height, etc. The style number indicates the slope, if you will, on the sides of the crown, and from the front and back. Some blocks are more tapered than others. Personally, I find that the #52 block works for a lot of hats. I also like to use a #60. Also, crown blocks can be a regular oval, or long oval. I had a couple that are indicated with an "L" and have an obvious difference to the circumference when compared to another block of the same size.

Hope this helps!

 

[Moviehats]

Hi Yahoody,

I have been doing research all over the internet trying to learn how to make a quality hat. (I have purchased the book you recommend but it hasn't come yet.) This is by far the most informative thing I have found! Thank you!. I do have a couple questions that maybe you can answer though. Is the hatters knot something special or will any tight knot work when blocking a hat?

I am still trying to learn what hat block to buy too. I am only interested in making a cowboy hat for myself and maybe family. Maybe you could go a little more indepth on that subject. Do you buy a different block for different head sizes? Or is it the same block and then use a stretcher on the band (where the crown meets the brim) to achieve different sizes?

Again thank you for all the information it has been a big help for me and I'm sure anyone who reads it!

Check eBay for used hat blocks. The guy I knew made them for $100 but he quit. Good luck and post a photo when done.

 

[Yahoody]

Making hats? It is in general a lot cheaper (likely 4 or 5 times the price of a decent 100% beaver hat) to just buy a nice 100% beaver hat from a maker like Mackey Hats @ under $500, than it is to buy a 100% beaver hat body (if you can find one) and a hat block your size plus all the tools required to make the hat correctly. I've seen dozens of "first time effort hats" from willing and very capable students and none I'd be willing to pay for. A labor of love or a full time business is the only way most can justify building a western hat from scratch.

 

[CWHats]

Each crown block has it's own size and height. Also, each block has a style "shape". You'll read where one hat is a #51 style block 5 1/2" height, or a #52 5 3/4" height, etc. The style number indicates the slope, if you will, on the sides of the crown, and from the front and back. Some blocks are more tapered than others. Personally, I find that the #52 block works for a lot of hats. I also like to use a #60. Also, crown blocks can be a regular oval, or long oval. I had a couple that are indicated with an "L" and have an obvious difference to the circumference when compared to another block of the same size.

Hope this helps!

Very good information for a beginner! Thank you

 

[Mustang Mike's Hats]

^^^^^^^^ You are most welcome sir! ^^^^^^^^

 

[Russell clark]

This is the hat I want to build next. Not sure I can wear it. But sure want to build it and see. That
is a serious hat. Owner is Roger Clark. The outstanding photos are from here:

https://www.facebook.com/BuckarooCountry/

That is not an Amish hat! Amish hat source linked below...

http://www.amishcraft.com/amish-hats/dress-flat-top

I have been thinking about building a hat myself when I stumbled upon your post here then had to stop and chuckle when I arrived here. Roger was my dad, I cannot see the picture but I am sure I know the hat. If it is a big brimmed grey hat it was made by limpa creek out of Texas. He always wore an interestingly shaped hat... anyways I have enjoyed your write up and will be in touch as I get closer to starting my project and I will need advice!

 

[Yahoody]

Russell? Is this your Dad?

 

[Russell clark]

Russell? Is this your Dad?

That is.. and that is the limpa creek hat

 

[Mustang Mike's Hats]

Great photo! Gotta love a hat that has character!!

 

[Yahoody]

Days are getting short. (37 days to Winter Solstice) My hat building season just started. It lasts about 60 to 90 days.

First project up is kinda neat I think. 5" modified dome crown. It's short. But that left a 5.5" raw brim to trim down. Gonna be a BIG hat with 5+ inches of brim to keep the sun out of your eyes 100% beaver in the "natural" color. Neat leather hat band and braided stampede string to go on this one. Comparison shown of an unfinished 5" crown and a finished 6" crown. Brim is 4.5 on the finished hat and 5.5" on the unfinished version.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Days are getting short. (37 days to Winter Solstice) My hat building season just started. It lasts about 60 to 90 days.

First project up is kinda neat I think. 5" modified dome crown. It's short. But that left a 5.5" raw brim to trim down. Gonna be a BIG hat with 5+ inches of brim to keep the sun out of your eyes 100% beaver in the "natural" color. Neat leather hat band and braided stampede string to go on this one. Comparison shown of an unfinished 5" crown and a finished 6" crown. Brim is 4.5 on the finished hat and 5.5" on the unfinished version.

View attachment 144419 View attachment 144420

Hey Yahoody yer back!! Great to hear from you. Hope you’re all healed up my friend.
I look forward to your hat building season last year’s was quite a clinic!!
Be well. Bowen
Ps: i still have visions of hats on fire, whatever you call that! Lol

 

[Yahoody]

Thanks Abba! Put this one on a hat block last night. And got it nice and tight there. Once I got my chores done today I sanded the body down some, fired it and then cut her up with the rounding jack. Came out 5 1/8" all around with nothing to spare! But it was a nice clean cut which always makes me happy on the biggest brims. I always forget just how tight the all beaver bodies felt up once you start working them and then fire the felt in the end. Fun, as this one was has a crown blocked to 5" on a 6.5" block. Crown came out better than I might have expected. It was mighty tight in places

But just enough room to get it done perfectly !

 

[Yahoody]

Some times they go together easily, some times not. This one, much to my surprise has been surprisingly easy. From the lower crown, done on too big of block, to the full 5+ inch brim.

First pass on the pencil curl held up with almost no effort. Lots of hand finishing yet to be done but the basic hat is there. I'll sew in the sweat band next and then get back to the brim and pencil curl for a serious effort on the hand work. My plan is to wear this one out to a Blue Grass Festival on Friday I am liking the "belt" hat band and the bright, tongued harness buckle. But need to oil it up some yet. The stampede string is just gonna half to wait till I dirty this one up some and it won't past the wife's muster for a "go to town hat". Till then I sure aint gonna get wet under it. But could be a might dangerous in a strong wind

Time to order more felt!

 

[Mustang Mike's Hats]

Looks like you're makin' progress Senor!

 

[Desert dog]

Some times they go together easily, some times not. This one, much to my surprise has been surprisingly easy. From the lower crown, done on too big of block, to the full 5+ inch brim.

View attachment 144505
First pass on the pencil curl held up with almost no effort. Lots of hand finishing yet to be done but the basic hat is there. I'll sew in the sweat band next and then get back to the brim and pencil curl for a serious effort on the hand work. My plan is to wear this one out to a Blue Grass Festival on Friday I am liking the "belt" hat band and the bright, tongued harness buckle. But need to oil it up some yet. The stampede string is just gonna half to wait till I dirty this one up some and it won't past the wife's muster for a "go to town hat". Till then I sure aint gonna get wet under it. But could be a might dangerous in a strong wind

Time to order more felt!

I like the shape and size of the crown a lot!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[alanfgag]

... Also, crown blocks can be a regular oval, or long oval. I had a couple that are indicated with an "L" and have an obvious difference to the circumference when compared to another block of the same size...

This is surprising. I've always thought that the perimeter of a size 7 is the same whether regular oval, long oval or wide oval, with the variation coming in the shape - the length and width of the block or corresponding head opening.

 

[RJR]

This is surprising. I've always thought that the perimeter of a size 7 is the same whether regular oval, long oval or wide oval, with the variation coming in the shape - the length and width of the block or corresponding head opening.

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