Making a tight hat fit. The easy way!

[T Jones]

My Bradford from a couple months ago...

I know we discussed this in an earlier thread. I have a rare Bradford OR clone that I really love. I feared that I may had to have sold it or traded it off because it fit too tight. The tag was marked 7 1/8 but it fit like a size 7. I remember we discussed popping the threads on the back of the sweat to open it up and make it fit my 7 1/8 long oval head. Some were apprehensive saying that I should stretch it instead. I'm not much a fan on stretching because it's a process that will have to be repeated. I just want to pop a hat on my head with no fussing over fitting issues. There were other Loungers who said to try it. I think Alan said it best, that if I were to cut the threads on the back of the sweat it shouldn't hurt the sweat and it's something that's reversible. If I were to send it off to a hatter and have it reblocked to fit me, I'd lose the sweat anyway. Well, I made the leap and cut the threads in the back where the sweat is sewn together. Mission was a complete success! That hat fits like glove! Nice and comfortable too! The best thing is, I get to keep my beloved Bradford and the sweat is still preserved!

 

[mayserwegener]

Congrats! Looks great!

 

[TheDane]

Sounds like a great decision! I'm glad you're free of all headaches

 

[Worf]

Thanks for the information, I just scored a Resistol Cowboy I'm getting converted to a campaign hat. It was just a tad snug this'll save me time and money.

Worf

 

[T Jones]

Thanks for the information, I just scored a Resistol Cowboy I'm getting converted to a campaign hat. It was just a tad snug this'll save me time and money.

Worf

Good luck my friend. I hope it works for you. I'm pleased with the way mine turned out. It sure beats the cost of having it reblocked to size. A couple friends and a hatter's website suggested this method, and I have to say, it definitely worked for me.

 

[scottyrocks]

I've done this to a couple of hats. Trying to go any more than one size up, though, may present a problem, though, as the hat may distort past the point of looking good.

 

[TomS]

Thanks for the tip... Another *tool* in the box.

 

[CRH]

I assume one needs to cut the reed for this to work? Would just cutting the reed work?

 

[T Jones]

I assume one needs to cut the reed for this to work? Would just cutting the reed work?

That was 11 years ago when I posted this. These days, if the hat's too small for me, I just take it apart and reblock it to my 7 1/4 LO size, (not the 7 1/8 LO as stated in my OP), and change out the sweat. As far as cutting the sweat reed or popping the stitches on the sweat, try stretching it first before going that route. These days I'm a little hesitant about advising people on doing something like that with their nice vintage hats. That was my hat so I wasn't concerned about taking that chance back then.

 

[belfastboy]

That was 11 years ago when I posted this. These days, if the hat's too small for me, I just take it apart and reblock it to my 7 1/4 LO size, (not the 7 1/8 LO as stated in my OP), and change out the sweat. As far as cutting the sweat reed or popping the stitches on the sweat, try stretching it first before going that route. These days I'm a little hesitant about advising people on doing something like that with their nice vintage hats. That was my hat so I wasn't concerned about taking that chance back then.

Yes, and if reducing the size you can keep the original sweat band. You can keep the original sweatband even if you are upsizing by piecing in a small extension using a similar coloured piece of sweat band. Yes, it will show but at least you get to keep the original sweat that shows the provenance of the hat.

 

[T Jones]

Yes, and if reducing the size you can keep the original sweat band. You can keep the original sweatband even if you are upsizing by piecing in a small extension using a similar coloured piece of sweat band. Yes, it will show but at least you get to keep the original sweat that shows the provenance of the hat.

Yessir. That's definitely true. The one caution to really becareful with is that the reed tapes on those older vintage hats are made of cloth with a plastic coating on them and they can be fragile and rip out. Just need to be careful about sliding the new reed through, and especially becareful when sliding the reed tape over the ferrell.

 

[belfastboy]

Yessir. That's definitely true. The one caution to really becareful with is that the reed tapes on those older vintage hats are made of cloth with a plastic coating on them and they can be fragile and rip out. Just need to be careful about sliding the new reed through, and especially becareful when sliding the reed tape over the ferrell.

Yes, I have had them disintegrate in my hand......dust to dust!!!

 

[T Jones]

Yes, I have had them disintegrate in my hand......dust to dust!!!

Same here!

 

[RickP]

recently Ive found pictures on here where someone replaced a sweatband, but also affixed a section of the original trashed sweatband with the original stampings. Best of both worlds... a new functional sweat AND the original markings!

 

[belfastboy]

recently Ive found pictures on here where someone replaced a sweatband, but also affixed a section of the original trashed sweatband with the original stampings. Best of both worlds... a new functional sweat AND the original markings!

The most common issue is that if a sweat band is thrashed/rotted the leather disintegrates in your hand and cannot be used. I have cut out sections that contained the hat's style name and inserted it behind the old band just to retain a small bit of its provenance.

I have upsized sweat bands that were in good shape by sewing in an extension with the same colour leather.

 

[CRH]

The most common issue is that if a sweat band is thrashed/rotted the leather disintegrates in your hand and cannot be used. I have cut out sections that contained the hat's style name and inserted it behind the old band just to retain a small bit of its provenance.

I have upsized sweat bands that were in good shape by sewing in an extension with the same colour leather.

That sounds like the sweatband on my Campdraft that crumpled when I tried to pull the wire. Here's a photo of a not yet even broke in Akubra Tablelands. You can see a little twinkle of a brass ferrule holding the ends of the steel wire together. The wire I pulled was the exact same stuff used for unwound guitar strings.