Magnoli's suits.

[vonwotan]

Jovan - in general I do like some heavier cashmere blend fabrics and many would make a good suit. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the fabrics at Magnoli. Similar weight fabrics can drape quite differently and have a very different hand / finish. One of my favourite suits was made while I was in Hong Kong from a 14oz blend. Another very nice, well tailored suit hanging in my closet gets less use because the 11oz year round fabric feels a bit stiff in comparison to the heavier wool.

I guess thats a longwinded way of saying that I would choose with the fabric books / swatches in my hand and discuss what you want with your tailor.

 

[Jovan]

I don't exactly have that option. I mean, I can ask for swatches, but that'll cost me if I remember right.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

I already e-mailed Jovan about this, but thought I'd post it here as well for those interested. The 14oz cashmere blend we use on our overcoats could be used to make a suit, but because of the finished and drape I wouldn't recommend it. We do, however, also have a 14oz cashmere blend in a nice herringbone pattern that would work well for a heavier-weight suit. This is currently available in black, dark grey and dark blue.

We also have a 13oz pure wool, but this is a higher end fabric, and would add around $100 to a typical suit.

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[vonwotan]

Indy - Thank you for posting this information. I always find the fabric choices to be my biggest challenge. At any moment time something entirely different might catch my eye.

I love the styling on your suits. Especially the Fairbanks three piece and the Two Button Single Breasted with Peaked Lapels as the jacket on a three piece, perhaps with the half belt back...

 

[Matt Deckard]

I'd suggest the cashmere of that weight for a sport jacket and the all wool 13oz. for a suit as Cashmere probably wouldn't hold up as well when made into trousers.

 

[Jovan]

I've been thinking for a long time of getting a sport coat made with just a belt back, no pleats. Take my foray one step at a time.

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you have Netflix, get The big Broadcast of 1938. You'll see Bob hope and many others in belted back sport jackets.

If you do just the belt I suggest getting some puckeing or pleats under the belt so it doesn't look like it's just sitting there in a void serving no purpose. They were to give the waist a pinched look.

 

[Jovan]

But I don't want any of that. I just want it for the style. I've seen a number of coats that had just the belt and they look fine.

 

[Fletch]

While we know Indy's looking in, I would like to see a 3-button-3-piece added to his range...

 

[Indy Magnoli]

A good option if you want to take it slowly is to have a jacket made from one of our standard fabrics. This way, you can always get the pants at some future date and make it into a suit. Many of our fabrics rotate, though, so you'd be limited in what choices you could make. Feel free to e-mail or PM me to discuss details.

Fletch, Yeah, a three-piece three-button would be a nice addition, though I usually wait for a willing guinea pig to step up to the plate. Any takers?

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Mr. Rover]

Magnoli, are you wearing the Washington suit in your new avatar?

 

[Indy Magnoli]

Yes, I am. With regards to fit, shape, button stance, gorge, etc... if you have a jacket that you want detailed copies from, you can e-mail me these specs instead of just "off the body" measurements. This will often get better results if you want a particular vintage look.

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Atomic Glee]

Magnoli, I have been lusting after...well, a lot of the stuff on your site. I'm really diggin' the Marrakesh suit. Might just have to take the plunge soon. I'm assuming that it too would work well with vintage-y armholes?

 

[Barry]

Magnoli, I have been lusting after...well, a lot of the stuff on your site. I'm really diggin' the Marrakesh suit. Might just have to take the plunge soon. I'm assuming that it too would work well with vintage-y armholes?

I cannot comment on the suits. However, I ordered a back belted jacket (replica from the Chinatown movie) and it arrived today. I love it. The armholes are fine. I could have taken them a notch higher but the jacket is great! I'll have pictures posted sometime tomorrow in the afternoon.

Barry

 

[Jovan]

I generally like my armholes to be 20" around, myself.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

Yes, the Marrakesh suit would be perfect with high armholes. Since all of our suits are made-to-measure, we go from the specs you give us. You want tiny armholes, no problem, send us your figure. I go with 16" armholes, myself.

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Jovan]

16"??? You must be a small man (no offence meant), 16" just barely fits around my arm. lol

I wear about a 38" and am 6'1. I found that the 20" armholes on my casual jacket are comfortable enough yet don't raise the jacket above my head when I gesture. It seems a lot of clothing companies ARE starting to see the benefit (and aesthetic) of smaller armholes.

Question... how much smaller should shirt armholes be? Or should they be the same size? I have a semi-bespoke shirt I got online that has fairly small armholes, but they're just a bit too small for my taste. This was just specifying a "comfortable" fit! Thanks.

 

[Indy Magnoli]

Just look at my avatar... I'm a skinny guy. 16" is quite snug, but man, can I move around in it!

Kind regards,
Indy

 

[Jovan]

Fred Astaire had very small armholes. He sure needed them, though.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Male dancers usually do. Even today, male ballroom dancers have their tailcoats made with sleeves set so that the arms stick out horizonally. Those dudes never put their arms down. lol