M444/M445/ANJ4 Questions

[Mobius]

Alrighty here goes,

Finally got out of College and making enough to splurge on a bit. Plus a 5k bonus to boot.

I've got a few questions about these leather/shearling jackets. I've read a ton of info regarding them over the past year or two (mostly from FL through Google).

SO first of all how warm is 1/4 inch shearling in a leather jacket? I recently moved into a new town with a climate that really does NOT need a full blown B-3 or anything, which i recall has 1/2 inch and above thick fur/wool. My eBay cheap-o "B-3 style" I have currently is too warm to wear above 40F. The "issue" now is I live in a climate that rarely goes below 30F during the winter (sometimes to 15, but rare. Maybe once every other year). And by afternoon is 40~55F apparently (I've only been here for about 5 months)

Would 1/4 inch sheepskin still be overkill for a climate like this?

I love the look of the Eastman ANJ4 but if its too warm for my area then im going to have to pass. And who knows when their M444 is going to be released. A 2013 post somewhere said it should be out "next fall". An email i got a few days ago from History Preservation Associates regarding their Eastman ANJ4 also said the same thing....

So currently I am loitering around flightjacket.com and their M444. Which I thought had shorter shearling than the 445 or ANJ4. But an email from Shaul indicated that their M444 shearling is as thick as the B-3..

Although their FAQ states that they can do customization so i may consider asking them to shorten their M444 to 1/4" if they can.

So my second question after all that is; How good of leather quality is current flightjacket.com / US Authentic MFG? I don't see them much mentioned around here for their sheepskin jackets. All i know is that the hide in general is all goatskin. And that it has an "oily finish".. Anything to worry about like discoloration or the like?

Any help appreciated!

PS: I am not looking for absolute authenticity. Just something well made enough that would last me a good few decades if possible. Specifially the M444/M445/ANJ4 styles with the wool not exposed at the waistline or cuffs.

 

[Steve S.]

I would think the 1/4" would be in the ballpark warmth wise. Can't say for sure as the only one I've owned in a thinner fur was an original B-6 & didn't want to chance damaging it.. I can say that the M-445a & B-3 that I made a few yrs back have rarely been worn. I went a tad thinner with the shearling at 5/8" vs. 3/4" & they were still too warm. I have thought seriously about doing another (have M-445 & AN-J-4 donors) & going with 1/4"-3/8" for the body, but still using a little thicker hide for the collar. I'm thinking it would look odd with a thin collar too.

 

[John Lever]

Like most members here I suspect that we wear our jackets because we like the way they look rather than how warm or practical they are. These designs are over 70 years old and so can regarded as obsolete by modern standards.
If you just want to keep warm you could go to Tkmax and buy a down or synthetic jacket for about 30 quid. I suspect you want more than that so be prepared for comprises on comfort and practicality. Having worn an Anj4 for several hours in very cold weather I found it quite tiring and heavy on the shoulders. It is also almost impossible to have a conversation on a mobile phone when wearing sheepskin. The arms just don't bend easily enough. Storage is another issue, some jackets have pockets but they can be difficult to open and are often little more than flat patches with no gusset to allow for expansion.
My advice would be to buy something oversize to raise comfort levels and something with pockets. To keep costs down avoid any customisation and go for a second hand or sales item.
Aero have some trainee jackets in their sales section that look very good for example some B6's

http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=salerv

 

[bn1966]

I've got an Irvin and a D-1 and find my default is the latter, quarter inch shearling & two pockets..still find it hard to use a mobile with it on though

 

[Sloan1874]

Trouser pockets for phone and wallet, my Irvin keeps me both warm and cool, if you get my drift, something a TK Max jacket will never ever be able to do.

 

[Plumbline]

IMHO the D-1 is possibly the most practical 4 season jacket available and it's simple styling and light weight 1/4" shearling coupled with zip closure pockets ( if you can put up with the way they feel on the back of the hands) make it practical, light, warm ( for all but the harshest winter weather e.g. Norway / Chicago in Q1 ) .... it looks equally at home with a sweater as a layer or a T-shirt with the option of a scarf to keep out the chill at the neck. The B-6 is more fussy and has the addition of a bi-swing back and hip adjusters ... but it loses some of the simplicity of the D-1 IMHO. I NEED pockets in a jacket ( inner or outer) and while some are happy with wallet , keys, phone and change in trouser pockets .. I'm not. This is where I cannot get on with the Irvin ( I've owned 4 repros - 1 x Aero, 2 x Eastman and 1 x WPG and 2 x original Warings ). Eastman, Aero and various others produce really nice D-1's .. all of my D-1's have been pre- 2005 ( 3 x Aero, 1 x Eastman) the nicest being a redskin Aero with a 2 piece back which is one I shouldn't have sold

 

[Sloan1874]

Personally, I'm not keen on the fur trim on the majority of US flight jacket cuffa, it just lends itself to getting grubby and worn. Also, the stud fastening on the B-6 just didn't do it for me at all.

 

[Banzai]

I wear my US-A horsehide A-2 down to freezing and just below, with a sweater or sweatshirt underneath. It's a thick hide, impenetrable to the wind, and a shirt that functions as an insulating layer takes care of the rest. I don't see ever wearing a shearling jacket in your mild climate.

For true cold, I have my peacoat. I can't even wear that thing above 30, or I'll roast.