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m422a jacket

thor

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2,008
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NYC, NY
Thanks for Dating mine, I always thoght it was WWII era Just comparing it to most of my other G-1 Type Jackets.

Good to know. The one I posted is still a Cut above so many others IMO.

@DD: you are certainly correct; those early 7823 G-1 jackets are indeed a cut above later model G-1's! I used to own a size 44 Cagleco 7823 afew years ago and it was one fantastic jacket! Congrats on yours. Nice Mae West life vest pick up too!
 

AdeeC

Practically Family
Messages
646
Location
Australia
Big J,

I cannot specifically comment about what may be wrong with the ELC size calculator (it's not in my control) but it usually works most of the time; however, there are indeed gray areas that it cannot account for and Gary Eastman and I have discussed this and how personally reviewing a customer's measures is always best. The size calculator will never be 100% perfect anymore than assigning shipping boxes and costs will be using a website vs. having an individual specifically calculate your order's shipping rate (such calculating tools are setup to work in most scenarios and not all).

We don't make use of the ELC size calculator; our website has sizing tips, how we measure jackets in text and photos, and listed jacket measurements, which while this system is also not fool proof, I do believe it provides for better determination of size than that calculator. If you are very tall and thin or more round and with a chest measure greater than 48", then an Eastman G-1 may well not fit you in any form, but since you have my attention, please do send me an e-mail with your height, weight, chest circumference, body type, and waist measure and I'll be happy to personally assess the possibility of you being able to wear an Eastman G-1 or other style.
I think ELC should ditch that size calculator. it doesn't work for me because I have a 39in chest and just below average height.. And the language used gives the impression to some that ELC does not cater to their sizes. This is partial reason that led me to Aero when buying a jacket last year.
 
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Dumpster Diver

Practically Family
Messages
952
Location
Ontario
I still cant believe how Much Cheese has to be Cut around here to go with the whines about the Fits and size of all your Jackets guys! what the heck!!!

So far I empathize to a point, but its really getting old after hundreds of posts that the arms, or chest or gotchee dont fit you right!

Get in shape or something..I duno. :popcorn:

If they are MILITARY spec. Jackets, Order yours a few sizes bigger and take it or leave it!

I mean, my Gramps Told me the Joke about the Wool Pants back in WWII.

Private: sir, these pants are too big!

Sergeant: do they hurt you under the Armpits

Pvt: Yes sir.

Sergeant: then they FIT!

(And I could see why, wool Shrinks in all weather and had to last and last, but these were what you LIVE in 12 months of the year during operations...Its basically your home, If you got them way too big for you, they would shrink enough Just to fit *That Much* IMO. I figure Leather will shrink anyway over time, so order it a bit Bigger Just for good measure. why does the fit have to be so Damn *PERFECT* I realize some Jackets Just dont have the proper *Cuts* in em, but I expect for the price of the finer quality Jackets that someone has Taken care of it already for you as good as It gets.)

Also with the boots, were always issued a few sizes bigger, my Gramps told me they joke that was so you would stay standing up after you were shot.
 
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Big J

Call Me a Cab
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2,961
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Japan
I still cant believe how Much Cheese has to be Cut around here to go with the whines about the Fits and size of all your Jackets guys! what the heck!!!

So far I empathize to a point, but its really getting old after hundreds of posts that the arms, or chest or gotchee dont fit you right!

Get in shape or something..I duno. :popcorn:

If they are MILITARY spec. Jackets, Order yours a few sizes bigger and take it or leave it!

I mean, my Gramps Told me the Joke about the Wool Pants back in WWII.

Private: sir, these pants are too big!

Sergeant: do they hurt you under the Armpits

Pvt: Yes sir.

Sergeant: then they FIT!

(And I could see why, wool Shrinks in all weather and had to last and last, but these were what you LIVE in 12 months of the year during operations...Its basically your home, If you got them way too big for you, they would shrink enough Just to fit *That Much* IMO. I figure Leather will shrink anyway over time, so order it a bit Bigger Just for good measure. why does the fit have to be so Damn *PERFECT* I realize some Jackets Just dont have the proper *Cuts* in em, but I expect for the price of the finer quality Jackets that someone has Taken care of it already for you as good as It gets.)

Also with the boots, were always issued a few sizes bigger, my Gramps told me they joke that was so you would stay standing up after you were shot.

Dude, I ain't 'whining about fit', I'm telling the guy that sells Eastman that the Eastman size selector software keeps rejecting my size. Sheesh!
 

Dumpster Diver

Practically Family
Messages
952
Location
Ontario
was not Talking about you specifically, anyway*sorry for misunderstanding.

[huh] Whats your size..Dude.

PS.

:dance:
 
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Otter

One Too Many
Messages
1,445
Location
Directly above the center of the Earth.
I was going to make a joke about being too big to be catapaulted off a carrier and having to join the Air force but.....

In all seriousness, I think it is an issue with the size of the goat skins that are available. They are on the small side and just no big enough to make the back pannel in the correct one piece. If you talk nicely to Bill Kelso, I believe they had a source for some larger skins and might be able to come up with a solution. Let me know what colour of mouton you go go for. Another nice add is to get hold of one of the old silk liferaft charts of the Pacific and get it sewn into the lining across the back. Gives prevailing winds and currents and looks very nice in a jacket.
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
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2,961
Location
Japan
I was going to make a joke about being too big to be catapaulted off a carrier and having to join the Air force but.....

In all seriousness, I think it is an issue with the size of the goat skins that are available. They are on the small side and just no big enough to make the back pannel in the correct one piece. If you talk nicely to Bill Kelso, I believe they had a source for some larger skins and might be able to come up with a solution. Let me know what colour of mouton you go go for. Another nice add is to get hold of one of the old silk liferaft charts of the Pacific and get it sewn into the lining across the back. Gives prevailing winds and currents and looks very nice in a jacket.

Yeah, that could be an issue. I also think that the WWII issue jackets were much trimmer than the later G-1s from the 70's onwards, but I have no evidence to support that.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
Yeah, that could be an issue. I also think that the WWII issue jackets were much trimmer than the later G-1s from the 70's onwards, but I have no evidence to support that.

Had achance at the weekend to see an ELC M422a and an ELC G1 beside eaich other. The collar on the G1 was fractionally smaller, but the fit didn't look significantly different between the two. [huh]
 

Deacon211

One Too Many
Messages
1,012
Location
Kentucky
Yeah, that could be an issue. I also think that the WWII issue jackets were much trimmer than the later G-1s from the 70's onwards, but I have no evidence to support that.

I think you may be right about the jackets blossoming out in the body from the '70s onward a bit.

According to Moore's site, the M-422s tended to be longer in the body than the G-1 and it looks like some manufacturers wore big. On the other hand, it seems that the early G-1s were shorter in the body and wore a bit small for their size. I think the G-1s in the '70s were cut a bit looser and my late model Pharr seems pretty roomy around the middle though that might be my middle aged middle talking.

http://moorecustom.com/jackets/Moore_Jackets_navy.htm




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thor

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2,008
Location
NYC, NY
I'm a huge fan of the M-422a/G-1 jackets and own or have owned quite afew. I loved my ELC M-422a (it was the older version with a "Gordon & Ferguson" label). Sadly I outgrew it (it was a 44 long but now I'm more comfortable in a 46 long). About 15 (?) years ago, when I was quite a bit leaner, I had the Eastman 55-J-14; awesome jacket but that one was a 42 long and it was a military snug fit on me and I sold it. I have a BK M-422 (the Willis & Geiger version) and a cool Cockpit vintage G-1 (very cool jacket, if not exactly authentic in all the details).

I've seen the Real McCoys G-1 in a retail store in NYC ("Blue in Green" in Soho) but it was not to my liking; it looked way too "repro" to me.

From what I have heard, there are very good reviews of the GW M-422 jacket but not sure I can wait 18-24 months for it (and it's a bit out of my comfort range as far as price goes).

Used to have an original W&G but it was in only mediocre condition with some flaking of the leather near the shoulders; also had a nicely restored Gordon & Ferguson M-422a but sold it after afew years. These days I prefer a new jacket (less angst about accidental damage when wearing it).

I think my next M-422a purchase would be an ELC M-422a in 46 extra-long, perhaps in the time-worn finish. Either that or their 55-J-14. For me, the Eastman is my best all-around choice (fit, finish, sizing options, value/cost, availability/wait time upon ordering, etc).

Just my 2 cents.
 

Big J

Call Me a Cab
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2,961
Location
Japan
I think you may be right about the jackets blossoming out in the body from the '70s onward a bit.

According to Moore's site, the M-422s tended to be longer in the body than the G-1 and it looks like some manufacturers wore big. On the other hand, it seems that the early G-1s were shorter in the body and wore a bit small for their size. I think the G-1s in the '70s were cut a bit looser and my late model Pharr seems pretty roomy around the middle though that might be my middle aged middle talking.

http://moorecustom.com/jackets/Moore_Jackets_navy.htm




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Yep, that would match my experience. My WWII repro USN jackets are all super-slim; sized 50 and can only get a T-shirt underneath. My issue jackets from the 70's and one from the 90's are all 48, but I can get a sweatshirt underneath.
 

Deacon211

One Too Many
Messages
1,012
Location
Kentucky
That brings up an interesting question.

Do repro makers follow original patterns, or do they put original details on modern patterns? What I mean is that, if a particular WWII maker had historically short sleeves, will the modern repro? Or do repro makers smooth out the rough edges of the originals.

Obviously, this might not apply to GW since they make jackets to size.


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Big J

Call Me a Cab
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2,961
Location
Japan
That brings up an interesting question.

Do repro makers follow original patterns, or do they put original details on modern patterns? What I mean is that, if a particular WWII maker had historically short sleeves, will the modern repro? Or do repro makers smooth out the rough edges of the originals.

Obviously, this might not apply to GW since they make jackets to size.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is an interesting question. The Aero M422a that I got last year was based on Willis & Giger patterns from John at Goodwear (IIRC). Aero originally sent me one made to their Gordon & Fergusson pattern, but there was a strange effect due to the pattern changes over the size increase, where by the time you got to a 50 inch chest, you needed to have the body proportions of a gorilla to make it fit. Of course, Ken Calder is an absolute gentleman, and took care of me perfectly.

But to sum up, I know that Goodwear and Aero are using real wartime contract patterns.
 

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