LUFTWAFFE FLiES: LEWiS LEATHERS 'DOMiNATOR' Review

[johnnyjohnny]

i think i went back in time...

somehow i got a 40s LuFTWAFFE jacket...from a British maker of all things...

Lewis Leathers' Dominator jacket, which i picked up from ups on a rainy california eve, several hours ago, is a virtual recreation of the famed Luftwaffen attire, totally unintendedly, by Lewis

decided to go with Lewis for a Luftwaffe style jacket after trying with aero's highwayman, and having to admit (paraphrasing former Sen. Lloyd Bentsen), i knew the highwayman jacket, and the highwayman jacket is no Luftwaffe jacket

i tried to tweak the highwayman into a luftwaffe type jacket, and it just didn't work...someday i'll get another highwayman, the way they were supposed to be...

what this leads up to is that the Lewis Dominator, first produced in 1962 by Lewis (and this is a faithful reedition according to Lewis), is imho as close as one can get to the authentic, most iconic versions, of the 40s Luftwaffe jacket...

i would have gone with eastman, but after 2 emails and no response from them, i let them sink like a U-boat and went on to Lewis, as the world financial crisis had one silver lining (actually, the Dominator's lining is red)...i could afford the very pricey jacket by Lewis, which before subprime ruined the world's financial systems, would have cost me $1200+ after converting pounds to dollars...as it was, shipping included, i got this flight back in history (to either 1962, or '43, take your choice) for $960

not that i'd have wished for a crisis to allow me to get this jackiet...but nothing i could do about it, sooo...below are the pictures of the jacket on, and by itself hanging around, and then sitting a spell

as for the jacket, it's arguable to some that this is more Luftwaffian than an Eastman, with it's little 'luftwaffe' tags in the collar (though these being private purchase jackets by Luftwaffe pilots, not Reich-issued, this model never had the tags)

the Dominator is not a 'feature by feature' repro of a Luftwaffe jacket, but in cut, leather, style, and indeed features, it is almost so

the only things not on this jacket is a neck strap closure...and the zip cuffs don't have a normal cuff with button imposed over them...also, the lining is not the 'blue felt' normally attributed to this style, however (and totally NoT intended i'd bet my life) the lining is ReD...very ReD...in fact swastika red, like the colour of the german swastika flag that flew over the '36 olympics...just one of those coincidences i suppose...)

if Eastman does a feature by feature recreation of a Luftwaffe jacket, charging more for it than this Dominator, i can't imagine it being any more authentic to original Luftwaffe jackets because of a neck strap or a button on the zip sleeves...this thing is truly the spirit of the Luftwaffe jackets of the time...uh, that's sounding rather aryan...let me rephrase that...this jacket in look, feel and any other way, could be mistaken for the iconic German flying jacket itself

if you're asking, 'what's this guy got about the Luftwaffe? i just wanna know how good a jacket it is'

fair enough, except to say i've collected all major ww2 military jacket styles, milspec, and the ones faithful in look and spirit to their progenitors, are themselves exquisite jackets...and so this is...on it's own merits as well as an unintended replica

not to let history go yet...as stated, the jacket is in fact a stitch by stitch reedition of Lewis' 1962-premiered Dominator...so if you want to relive early 60s Brit history, this is a way to do it as well...or PuNk, when these jackets became the 'freak flag' of punkers, such a johnny 'you know who', in the '70s...but of course, that was retro...before the punkers, this was the uniform of orbison-style rockers...style attracts style

constructon wise (yes, now the real review) this piece is the finest jacket i've ever seen, ever worn. the aero i had briefly was amazing, but this jacket is better than amazing...flawless in the leather, interior, stitching, draping, look, feel...it even sits up in a chair...though it won't share a corona with me or talk about the british rocker scene (i do have a pic of it sitting up in my chair above)

i gave Lewis my sizes, not knowing what their interpretation of a jacket's fit...and it was in the end perfect...my size 46, rendered according to what Lewis told me i'd need, is just slightly well fitting, a bit snugger than i normally wear my mil jackets (sorry guys who, on the forum here, wear a-2s at navel length)...but this motorcycle jacket definitely fits looser than it would had i purchased it for motorcycle riding and protection...i ain't a motorcycle rider (hushed silence among h@LL's angels in the crowd) since i took out a 1974 ford capri on a yamaha back in, 1974

in other words, by Lewis's own rendering, the fit is parfait...

fitwise (as you look at the pix) i did tell them that i am NoT a motorcycle rider, so don't need knuckle length sleeves...they gingerly took only 1 cm off the length of the sleeves, but when i got the jacket i'm glad they didn't go farther

also, i specified i'd like a length of 26" back collar seam to bottom, which they hit on the nail head...normally i think this would have been a half-inch or so shorter, but i'm not sure on that

for those wishing to judge by my pix if the fit of a Lewis Dominator needs to be tweaked for them, i'm 6'1", 45.5" chest, 34" waist (oh yeah, Lewis took 1" off the waist area from their normal 46s, as a result, i have side straps but i don't have to use them to make the jacket tighter around the waist, hence they are buckled, but not cinched...they do look formidable, as if they could hold a climber going up Mt. Everest)...

i measured armpit to armpit under the arms and it is, jacket stretched and flat, 25", or a literal hair's breath under...so for those keeping score, a 46 gives you 50" around the chest

now, this leather is amazing...i'm not enrique the leather afficionado, who can discuss and debate leathers as if soccer stats, but this is strong, supple, it sits up (again, check the photo) but is comfie and relatively light...and as i wear it writing this, my body heat warms it up, making it even more supple and conforming to my body, wrapping around me like a second skin...could use a girlfriend like that

the zippahhhhz glide along like they have motors in them...the thing is totally comfortable...i can see being in a cockpit of any plane and having no difficulty working instruments whilst wearing this remarkable jacket...though i'd recommend the 1cm reduction in the sleeves if you are going to play Luftwaffe pilot in a Dominator...don't need cuffs to your knuckles...however, if you are riding a Harley or such, go for the extra 1cm...when stretching my arms out as if peter fonda in easy rider (something i do quite often to 'purple haze') my wrists are uncovered...

last thing i'll mention is the collar...the pictures of the Dominator never did it justice, even on the Lewis website...one of the things was the collar...it always looked big, poinTed, and very much like some original Luftwaffe jackets of the day that had dumbo ear-sized collars...as if the pilot wouldn't need a plane to take off

no need to fear, this jacket's collars are perfect, like the rest of the jacket...not at all the 70s 'shaft can you diggit' effect (apologies to richard roundtree)

as for the Lewis folk, delightful, and in my opinion makers of the best motorcycle leather jacket on the planet...not that others are bad...just that i believe this to be best of even a great crop of producers

think i'll sit my Dominator up in a chair, have a beer with it, and chat about things, as the raindrops start falling outside, here in LaLaLand

 

[Spitfire]

:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
Congrats with a great looking jacket. Suits you perfectly.

 

[Rufus]

Wow! Looks the business! I think your smile says it all really!

 

[H.Johnson]

Enjoy the jacket and well done for buying British (can I say that on this forum?)

I applaud the efforts of the current management to resurrect the Lewis Leathers and Aviakit names. It's a pity that there is some dispute over the 'Highwayman' name (as a brand rather than a style) ...I'd like to see that come back too. I think the stuff that LL are making now is good, and the quality is fine, but they are very expensive.

For those who prefer originals, by the way, exampled of this style of jacketstill turn up regularly by the way - I recently picked up a Radley for 30GBP in absolutely immaculate condition and a Uniform in slightly less good condition (but in brown nappa, which is rarer) for 70GBP. For people who value originality and like a bargain, 1950s/60s British bike jackets are the hot tip, in my opinion. Damn! Now I've given it away...

 

[johnnyjohnny]

thanks to Spitfire, Rufus and Johnson...

together you guys sound like a law firm, or a rap group, can't decide which, but i thank you so much for your kind comments...

what makes getting anything you love more enjoyable is sharing it with others, especially those who appreciate it...

sitting here in LaLaLand california, the flooding has hit, right after the fires, so we can get a bit of lovely erosion in this time of year...the H20 has knocked out my DSL and i'm antiquating it on diaLuP...

but had to thank you guys...and as to H.Johnson letting the cat out of the bag about Brit 50s/60s jackets, i will use an expression i've heard on cspan watching the British House of Commons in action..."Hear Hear"...though i've also heard a lot of other things i probably shouldn't repeat...

back to this 'aviakit' Dominator, having been wearing it for a few hours, enjoying coffee, the one cat i now have left, and slow internet, i've noticed the jacket has already started conforming and molding, stretching, after warming up from about 4 hours wearing...i've had goatskin and horsehide, and even heavier cow leather, but have never felt it warm and mold so sheerly and beautifully after some hours of wear...am wrong to think it's the quality of the hide?

whatever, thanks again for helping me enjoy what is an homage to the great work the Brits can do, a really wonderful jacket

cheers

 

[Rufus]

The LL jackets wear in beautifully!
Derek does a fantastic job, and is an amazingly cool fella.

My LL westway boots are my favourite footwear... I only wish I had 4 feet so I could wear two pairs. LOL..

Stay dry, and enjoy your jacket...good choice!

 

[Edward]

The new Lewis stuff is gorgeous. Frighteningly expensive - you're right to take full advantage of the strong dollar on this - but they are a small, specialist business so I suppose that is to be expected. At least the money there buys you a true, quality product unlike so many expensive garments where all you get is a $100 jacket with a $900 designer-brand logo.

The Dominator, and its sibling, the Corsair, are beautiful jackets: a nice alternative to the ubiquitous Perfecto-style, sufficiently sublte that you could wear them with a collar and tie and it wouldn't look out of place, to my eye, the way the latter would. Very adaptable. enjoy!

 

[JanSolo]

Cool looking jacket and the fit is spot on. Especially the sleeve length is something that has to be considered when ordering a bike or bike related jacket. Glad to see that the sleeves have the perfect length for everyday use.
My granny's brother flew with the Luftwaffe (Messerschmitt BF-109) and he was at some point stationed in France. There is a picture of him and his friends. He is wearing some type of cloth jacket vaguely resembling the "Kanaljacke" but the guy standing next to him wears exactly that type of leatherjacket. Although in the picture it's that tight fitting that it looks more like the "Spray Paint"-version of the Luftwaffe avaitor's (cyclist's) jacket.
If I can find the album I'll post a scan of it. Again great choice from a top manufacturer. Coole Joppe, viel Spaß damit!

Jan

 

[johnnyjohnny]

but what would ViVieNNe say?!

'you could wear them with a collar and tie and it wouldn't look out of place' ---Edward

well Edward, i CouLD wear my new jacke with a coLLar and tiE...however, i might look a bit tOO much like one of goring's crew>>>

but you suRe know your stuff about your Brit coat manufacturers...in fact all you Brits seem to know your finest jacket makers on a first name basis...very impressive...i have emailed jacky cLyman on a first name basis, but still, you guys got styLe

as for you napoleon...er, Jan...what you said was so nice you had to say it twice...

but i kid you...aNd i'd love to see that pic of yours...though posting it once should be enough

thanks again for enjoying the jacket with me!

 

[JLStorm]

Its perfect. It honestly looks like that style of jacket was made specifically for you. Good job!

 

[icecold]

Wow, this is a great jacket. I want it.. I was thinking of ordering an areo CAFE rocker and adding 2 chest pockets, but this ight be better....

A couple of questions:

1) What is the hide? I assume horse?
2) I just found the jacket on thir site, and this stuff is expensive! 600+ GBP. In your opinion, is it that better than an aero to justify the 30% increase in cost?
http://www.lewisleathers.com/store/jackets/product39.html?PHPSESSID=86517c810a0f905bf32271c57e6ac035
3) Also, the jacket on their page has a HIDEOUS patch logo on the chest. Did you have to ask them to remove it?
4) The lining seems to be quilted - is that so, and if so, isn't it too warm?
thanks

 

[feltfan]

Nice jacket. But it doesn't seem much like the vintage jacket
you posted as a real luftwaffe jacket? Pockets are different,
no epaulettes, different color, snap vs. buckle at the bottom
of the zipper, etc. Did you post the Highwayman you had
customized? It would be very interesting to see such a
custom job from Aero, especially to understand how they fell short.

Sorry, it is a good jacket for you, but since we so often
obsess about vintage details here, I had to ask... I know
nothing about luftwaffe jackets in particular. Wouldn't
be caught dead in Nazi clothing myself, but I must admit
that vintage jacket is great and I can see why you'd want one
(though the one you have might be a better choice for you)!

 

[Edward]

FeltFan, the lack of similarity in those jackts is easily explained... the Luftwaffe never did issue a leather jacket of this type (later in the war they did have an issued sheepskin which to my eye owes a design debt to captured Irvins), though Luftwaffe pilots were permitted to wear private purchase items. Therefore while there can certianly be said to be a "Luftwaffe style" (primarily French and German leather cycle jackets of the period), there is no "correct" Luftwaffe jacket in the way there is an issue item such as an A2 or a B-10.

If you fancy one of these jackets yourself, you needn't worry about them being "Nazi clothing" - they aren't. The only "Nazi clothing" as such was the uniforms of the political paramilitary-organisations, the Allemaigne (sp?) SS and, pre-War, the SA. The Luftwaffe were part of the German armed forces, no more, no less. They did have a swastika incorporated into their logo, reflecting the government of the day, but they were no more a "Nazi" organisation than the US army was a "Republican" organisation going into Iraq in 2002, or will be a "Democrat" organisation after Obama takes office. It should not be forgotten that many of the German armed forces fought because it was their job, because they were conscripted, or for their country, or family's future as they saw it. not all of them fought for Hitler strictly speaking.

 

[johnnyjohnny]

some DoMiNaTing questions answered

thanks for some of the questions which i do have answers for>>>

i think Edward most eloquently and accurately answered the 'naZi' question, so i wouldn't elaborate on that...howeVer, as to the luftwaffe vintage jacket i posted many posts ago, Edward is also definitively correct in his explanation of the 'private purchase' nature of the ww2 Luftwaffe jacket, BuT, some of the vintage Luftwaffe jackets i posted were variations deviating from what has come down to be the most popular and recognized Luftwaffe jacket of the day, which indeed is the style that i got from Lewis Leathers

though it is NoT a Luftwaffe jacket, it is precisely, and i say, precisely, one in cut, construction and design...the minor differences are akin to having a pontiac firebird logo on what is a chevy camaro...they are in effect the same car (or were)...the minor variants on this Dominator, which again was not designed to be a Luftwaffe jacket, but just was the design the Luftwaffe chose since this design jacket had been around in the forties...the minor variants are nO throat snap, which many of these did not have, and which the 'iconic' replicated version today includes, and the closure at the waist is a snap, which some did have, but most often it was a buckle, though there were ones that had neither...and lastly, the zippered cuffs go back to the original, however, back in the day they also had a button cuff on top of the zip cuff, kind of a redundancy, which this leaves out...

definitely minor potatoes...and i'd rather have an authentic Dominator that is also a 99percent Luftwaffe jacket, then a 100percent replicator jacket that is oNLy a replicated jacket of a previous, albeit, great design...i go for truly authentic when possible

i must note that the 'hartmann' jacket is the only other jacket given 'iconic' status as 'the' Luftwaffe ww2 jacket, but the only difference there are wedge shape button down pockets as the two bottom pockets...i totally prefer this look, but i'd give both this Dominator look and the 'hartmann' look equal billing as to what 'is' the definitive ww2 Luftwaffe jacke

re the Aero that i had foolishly tried to tweak into a Luftwaffe jacket, FeLtFan, that was not a failing at all on aero's part, but on mine...they do NoT make a Luftwaffe jacket, and when talking with their rep (a great guy) i was told aero really wants nothing to do with making such a jacket for obvious but, in my opinion, overdrawn reasons...tho these days i see they have designed one for the fliegerjacke.de website, so they must have seen some gradual change in their position, though they do not market it under the 'aero' name, nor can you get it through aero, go figure...

so what i tried to do was add a few variations such a zip cuffs, one-piece back, extra top chest zip pocket...and while the jacket did look impressive, especially with the other top pocket, it still had the two side panels that looked expressly fifties, late forties at best...and by the late forties most Luftwaffe pilots were either dead, working for the cia, prisoners of the evil empire (ussr for those who forget), or getting ready to start another career in the resurgent west germany as politicians

so the aero luftwaffe was an oxymoron that never really worked

lastly, answering some IceCoLd questions>>>

1. the hide is unbelievable (like i never felt anything like this except on an ex-girlfriend, but that's another story)...as i wrote last night, sitting sheltered from the rain here in LaLaLand, the longer i wore it, the more supple and literally warm with my body temperature the jacket became, morphing to my structure as if liquid mercury...soft, thick but not overly so, it was not too much heavier than your standard goat a-2, but with an incredible uniform and beautiful texture...to answer your question specifically, it is cowhide, though, given my lead-in to answering this question, it is not to be assumed i date cows literally or figuratively, though nothing wrong with the latter...in fact i may start

2.600 pounds expensive? well, i thought so until the world's econs crashed...the price has dropped by about 25 percent in u.s. dollar terms...however, i'll say this about that, to quote a former u.s. president, this is the last jacket you will ever need to get...except to satisfy the oc disorder we all have with jackets...yet, this may even solve that...this will last probably longer than the legit Luftwaffe ww2 jackets you see on ebay, and like that patek watch ad campaign, you do not own this jacket, you are taking care of it for the next generation...and believe me, this would look great on male or female...so that price is pittance when you do the 'consumer reports' stats on it, and see that it will last several lifetimes...given reincarnation you may have a chance to enjoy it a number of times, if you can know who you'll be coming back as

4. the lining has a quilted look because the threading has a crisscross pattern, but it is fluffy, light, and about as warm as what you'd get in a g-1...only slightly warmer than the cotton drill (or twill?) in an a-2...but very soft and comfie...and the sleeves are another fabric that is lighter yet, and smooth so the sleeves glide on...again, to design, this jacket is classic yet superiour...with the suppleness and fit after several hours of having it mold to my body of, well, my ex-girlfriend...i can see easily using it in a cockpit to navigate instruments

what happened to '3.' you say, saved for last as i wouldn't have bought the jacket had that 'Lewis' patch not been optional...though it is optional to have it NoT added...so you should specify you don't want it, and it won't be there...

hope that answers all about this...it's been fun getting it, and being surpised on how it has been everything one would hope...and enjoyed sharing it with people on this forum who are interested, and have made the getting of it more enjoyable!

happy Thanksgiving

 

[feltfan]

Thanks for the explanations, boys. Knew I could
learn something here. I wasn't thinking this morning
or I wouldn't have opened the "nazi clothing" can of worms.
Hey, I have a Hugo Boss blazer...

I guess the Hartmann style is the vintage jacket you posted?
I like that old fashioned design, but I grant you, you have to
be setting out to look old fashioned.

Enjoy the jacket. If you're in LA right now JJ, I hope it's good
and water repellant.

 

[johnnyjohnny]

SS

thanks for the wishes for me and LaLaLand FeLtFan...

as for hugo boss, we won't go into that...except to say his fine work for the ss uniform won't be listed among the credits on the hugo boss website

just got this letter from derek at Lewis, so thought i'd post it here:


I note that you mentioned the Luftwaffe jackets and there is a stronger link than you may realise, Lewis Leathers jackets were commissioned for the 1969 Battle of Britain movie and the style used was basically a hybrid of the Dominator and Corsair jackets (no Dominator chest pockets, welted outer slash pockets and with an inside pocket as featured in the Corsair), the jacket is discussed on filmjackets.com please see the link below:
http://www.filmjackets.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=763&highlight=battle+britain
I used the same screen grabs a year or two ago for our Myspace albums www.myspace.com/lewisleathers (see attached).

A vintage Dominator was recently used in the Oxford Murders movie (featuring Lord of the Rings' Frodo), see below:
http://www.filmjackets.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=761&highlight=oxford+murders

I noticed that one of the Fedora Loungers' mentioned the oval LL logo patch, it has been a feature on our jackets since 1967, some wear it with pride and some prefer not to have it, it's an option as with most of the details on our jackets, in the past, people have ordered our padded style jackets without the elbow & shoulder pads and non-padded jackets with added pads, we are flexible, -well, I guess I should be writing this on the Lounge and not to your good self...

Once again, thank you for ordering with us and I hope you continue to enjoy your Dominator as much as you currently do, as the jacket breaks in it will gain more and more character!

Best regards and thank you once again.

Derek
Lewis Leathers

 

[H.Johnson]

Not quite true, Edward. There was an official issue Luftwaffe leather jacket, later in the war. See Mick Prodger's book.

FeltFan, the lack of similarity in those jackts is easily explained... the Luftwaffe never did issue a leather jacket of this type (later in the war they did have an issued sheepskin which to my eye owes a design debt to captured Irvins), though Luftwaffe pilots were permitted to wear private purchase items. Therefore while there can certianly be said to be a "Luftwaffe style" (primarily French and German leather cycle jackets of the period), there is no "correct" Luftwaffe jacket in the way there is an issue item such as an A2 or a B-10.

 

[Edward]

I wasn't thinking this morning
or I wouldn't have opened the "nazi clothing" can of worms.
Hey, I have a Hugo Boss blazer...

lol They're even less likely to draw attention to certain of their designs than Aero....

Not quite true, Edward. There was an official issue Luftwaffe leather jacket, later in the war. See Mick Prodger's book.

Ah, I mut check that out. The only Luftwaffe jackts I was aware of were the Irvin-like one and the canvas Kanal jacket - I've never seen an issue leather. Which theatre were those issued for?

 

[JanSolo]

Have a look here:
https://www.original-fliegerjacken.de/

Go to Fliegerjacken and then look for the "Arado M1". It's their modern reproduction of a "Karl Heisler, Berlin" jacket which appeared to a be a later wartime issue jacket which was in fact based on all those privately purchased and modified jackets. Don't know if it's 100% authentic but I guess it's very close to what has been issued between '43 and '44 (including the awkward map pocket). All in all it very much looks like the Lewis Leather of JohnnyJohnny apart from the pocket configuration.
Given the fact that Original Fliegerjacken mostly sell Aero stuff I am pretty sure that this one was made by them as well using spray finish mid weight HH or steer. (Please do also have a look at the "Messerschmitt").
Sorry for double posting......

As for your jacket...I still love it, I still love it, Johnny, Johnny.

 

[Smithy]

Stunning jacket Johnny, suits you to a tee. Well done picking that up.

Also never knew that Lewis did the LW jackets in BoB, thanks for posting that.