Lost Worlds - what's your leather/ lining preference?

[Carlos840]

I am a huge Lost World's fan but, I have had issues with my LW zippers. That is after buying new about 5 jackets straight from Stu.
Otherwise a spectacular jacket every time.

Which zippers did you have issues with?
I asked for a paperclip number 10 because i wanted brass zippers but i can't help but wonder if it is a mistake and if i should just go Crown like it did for my J-23!

 

[sweetfights]

Which zippers did you have issues with?
I asked for a paperclip number 10 because i wanted brass zippers but i can't help but wonder if it is a mistake and if i should just go Crown like it did for my J-23!

My #10 paper clip zippers were sometimes a problem- Ask Stu to personally check them before installing in your jacket.
Some are great, some are not. The smaller, under #10, were just, smaller. Not a problem really just not strong enough for 4 oz plus.

 

[sweetfights]

I personally love crown zippers. I would go with those. But I wanted the brass #10's. I do not think at the time Stu had large brass crown zippers.

 

[J Leather Investigater]

Ryder absolutely trimmer

 

[Carlos840]

I personally love crown zippers. I would go with those. But I wanted the brass #10's. I do not think at the time Stu had large brass crown zippers.

He still doesn't, Crown only come in silver matte finish.
I really want brass, but i really don't want to have to change it...

 

[JMax]

LW is my favorite maker. I currently own a J23 (4.5oz black with quilted lining); CHP (4oz black with satin nylon); Trojan (4.5oz black with satin nylon); and a PJ27 (4oz+ russet with satin nylon). The J23 does run slimmer so size up. I briefly owned a 3.5oz Trojan. The difference between this weight and the heavier weight is very obvious. The second I picked up the lighter weight jacket, I knew it was not the "typical" LW. Equally beautiful though, just with a different feel. I prefer the thicker, heavier, denser feel. I also owned a couple of 3oz vests. Do not even go there, 3.5 or up, preferably 4.0 plus.

Incredible HH, love the grain and the feel of it. I enjoy the heft of LWs, especially when on the MC. The jackets are heavy and can be warm, but I do not find the quilted lining to be any warmer than the satin nylon. My main zips are all #10 brass Talon, Scoville or Conmar. All work great and I have no real issues. The old Scoville did take some time to break in but now is buttery smooth.

If OP has specific questions about these models please ask. I can pull them out of the closet and look at whatever is needed.

 

[AeroFan_07]

To the OP - what climate do you live in? Helps a lot to reccommend. I am in the midwest - to northern midwest USA. I have owned two LW's - a J23 with Quilted lining I ordered new from Stu, and a Ryder purchased here with the simple Rayon lining (and cotton innner lining). Both were 4 oz Horsehide.

The J23 was simply too warm for anything above ~40F. And the leather was so think and got so cold it was basically un-usuable below 20F. Wool and Down jackets are a lot better at that point, as Logician mentioned.

If I were to do it again, I would buy a J23 wiht the Raylon or Cotton inner-lining, but I did not feel prepared to pay an additional $200 for this option on a $1500 jacket.

I no longer own either LW jacket, they were both nice, but I do not miss them.

 

[Cornelius]

As long as we're talking about LW, is their brown horsehide as orange of a tone as it appears online?

And does anyone here own a LW Bedford coat? I like that design, curious how it fits.

 

[JMax]

As long as we're talking about LW, is their brown horsehide as orange of a tone as it appears online?

And does anyone here own a LW Bedford coat? I like that design, curious how it fits.

No orange in mine. None at all.

 

[Cornelius]

No orange in mine. None at all.

Does Stuart send leather samples? Basing my color assessment on images like this:

 

[JMax]

Does Stuart send leather samples? Basing my color assessment on images like this: View attachment 212442

Here is mine. I will post more pics in different lighting. Usually comes out a tad darker. No orange. I sort of see where you are coming from though. Gotta be the lighting and the newness of the hide. All the LW russet jackets I have seen do not have an orange tint.

No idea if Stuart sends samples. Hopefully the guys that have dealt with him more often than I will chime in.

 

[red devil]

Does Stuart send leather samples? Basing my color assessment on images like this: View attachment 212442

Pretty sure this is the lighting

 

[Logician]

Which zippers did you have issues with?
I asked for a paperclip number 10 because i wanted brass zippers but i can't help but wonder if it is a mistake and if i should just go Crown like it did for my J-23!

Crown is a no brainer! You won't regret it in the long run.

 

[antoine p]

I've got six LW jackets: 3 Suburban, 2 Test and 1 Courier.

Thanks for your help Logician. It's great to hear from someone with such extensive experience with the brand.

Cotton is a more breathable fabric than nylon. IMO that's the main difference.

Do you think you (or anyone else) could describe this in detail? In my experience, I've found some clothing with synthetic fibers makes me sweat a bit more than others. Is this what you're describing here? Or something else?

For the Courier I choose 3.0 oz Goatskin which, I have to say, I find quite "thin", being accustomed to wearing 4.0 oz + HH jackets/coats. But it's just my personal preference.

Other than looks, what makes you decide between your 4oz/ satin suburbans and the 4.5oz/ cotton tests on any given day?
And why do you think that the satin or cotton are the stock specs for those specific jackets?

 

[antoine p]

My new jacket will be a Ryder.

Awesome. I hope you're happy with the jacket (and that you'll share photos here). Really curious what you'll make of the versatility of the 3.5oz hide as opposed to your 4+.

 

[antoine p]

LW is my favorite maker. I currently own a J23 (4.5oz black with quilted lining); CHP (4oz black with satin nylon); Trojan (4.5oz black with satin nylon); and a PJ27 (4oz+ russet with satin nylon). The J23 does run slimmer so size up. I briefly owned a 3.5oz Trojan. The difference between this weight and the heavier weight is very obvious. The second I picked up the lighter weight jacket, I knew it was not the "typical" LW. Equally beautiful though, just with a different feel. I prefer the thicker, heavier, denser feel. I also owned a couple of 3oz vests. Do not even go there, 3.5 or up, preferably 4.0 plus.

Incredible HH, love the grain and the feel of it. I enjoy the heft of LWs, especially when on the MC. The jackets are heavy and can be warm, but I do not find the quilted lining to be any warmer than the satin nylon. My main zips are all #10 brass Talon, Scoville or Conmar. All work great and I have no real issues. The old Scoville did take some time to break in but now is buttery smooth.

If OP has specific questions about these models please ask. I can pull them out of the closet and look at whatever is needed.

Thank you JMax, this is all helpful.

Off the bike, what is the warmest temperature you'll consider wearing your jackets in? I'm curious if there is a difference among your models as it seems you own/ have owned a good variation of hide types. Did it seem like the 3.5 would be a better choice for warmer weather, or are the hides not meaningfully different in this respect?

Also, regarding the 3oz- why the aversion? To be honest I'm not really considering it, but I wonder what your experience with it was like.

 

[antoine p]

To the OP - what climate do you live in? Helps a lot to reccommend. I am in the midwest - to northern midwest USA.

Hey AeroFan. I live in Chicago. I grew up in Los Angeles and do go back to California for substantial visits a few times a year.

The J23 was simply too warm for anything above ~40F. And the leather was so think and got so cold it was basically un-usuable below 20F. Wool and Down jackets are a lot better at that point, as Logician mentioned.

This is good to know. I maybe should have been a bit more specific in my original post… I'm not looking for a winter jacket here. Something to layer under on warmer winter days, perhaps. I'd say something great to wear from around 40º (with sweater, button up, undershirt) to around 70º (with button up shirt, undershirt) is what I'm aiming for.

If I were to do it again, I would buy a J23 wiht the Raylon or Cotton inner-lining, but I did not feel prepared to pay an additional $200 for this option on a $1500 jacket.

I hear you, that makes sense. I must say I am curious about the rayon too, I wonder if it's worth it.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Tusche]

As long as we're talking about LW, is their brown horsehide as orange of a tone as it appears online?

And does anyone here own a LW Bedford coat? I like that design, curious how it fits.

Leather is the 4+ OZ, lining the standard duck lining.

 

[Monitor]

The jackets are heavy and can be warm, but I do not find the quilted lining to be any warmer than the satin nylon.

I'm surprised to hear that 'cause I find the quilted liner in my LW to be very, very warm. Never had LW's nylon liner but I remember @ton312 once reffered to the J-23 w/ quilted liner as a full on winter jacket and now I understand why. I've been wearing it most of this winter and it's been keeping me warm as good as shearling which, for a leather jacket, is something entirely new to me. Only other jacket that I've found this effective in the cold was Vanson Highwayman. Great jacket, that. But yeah, I agree with @AeroFan_07 as I usually found leather jackets counterproductive when it comes to battling cold weather as the thick leather basically becomes a giant cooling pad.

Did it seem like the 3.5 would be a better choice for warmer weather, or are the hides not meaningfully different in this respect?

They aren't. 3.5 oz leather won't keep you any warmer or colder than the 4.5. You're fine with either option. It's all about the lining.
There's just no way I can't wear leather jackets in anything over 20C, especially if they're black.
Nylon is definitely warmer than cotton as it isn't nearly as breathable. I becomes quite uncomfortable to wear on a warmer day, I can tell you that much.
If my only options were quilted nylon vs. regular nylon, I'd go with quilted as I would rather have a true winter jacket than the one that's... Well, not really equipped for either extremes. Cotton lining is a no brainer for mild weather.

As for the zippers... I hear Crown's the best but then again, it looks like a toilet seat.

 

[Carlos840]

I'm surprised to hear that 'cause I find the quilted liner in my LW to be very, very warm. Never had LW's nylon liner but I remember @ton312 once reffered to the J-23 w/ quilted liner as a full on winter jacket and now I understand why. I've been wearing it most of this winter and it's been keeping me warm as good as shearling which, for a leather jacket, is something entirely new to me. Only other jacket that I've found this effective in the cold was Vanson Highwayman. Great jacket, that. But yeah, I agree with @AeroFan_07 as I usually found leather jackets counterproductive when it comes to battling cold weather as the thick leather basically becomes a giant cooling pad.




They aren't. 3.5 oz leather won't keep you any warmer or colder than the 4.5. You're fine with either option. It's all about the lining.
There's just no way I can't wear leather jackets in anything over 20C, especially if they're black.
Nylon is definitely warmer than cotton as it isn't nearly as breathable. I becomes quite uncomfortable to wear on a warmer day, I can tell you that much.
If my only options were quilted nylon vs. regular nylon, I'd go with quilted as I would rather have a true winter jacket than the one that's... Well, not really equipped for either extremes. Cotton lining is a no brainer for mild weather.

As for the zippers... I hear Crown's the best but then again, it looks like a toilet seat.

I agree with @JMax regarding the quilted liner.
@AeroFan_07 's review was one of the ones that made me wonder if i should pay extra to have cotton drill in my J-23. I decided to take the risk and went with the stock quilting.
In the end it works absolutely fine and i don't find it warmer than Strome tartan.
I have worn the jacket comfortably from 20F to 60F, (-5 to 15c) from 20F to 40F i wear the mutton collar, from 40f to 60f i take it off. I admit that above 60f i would go for something thinner with a cotton liner.

In retrospect, it seems the three people who have a problem with it in this thread (Aerofan, Ton and Monitor) are from Iowa, Chicao and Croatia, all cold places, maybe you guys are just the kind of people who go out in a tshirt when it is freezing?
Because i run pretty warm for a Londoner but can still feel the cold like a "normal" human being, and that liner has never been a problem in my part of the world.