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Lost Worlds J23 4.5oz

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
The gusset is cool and is nothing to worry about. Congrats! My Aero BR's sleeve zips were difficult to zip up all the way while wearing but I think that's normal.
 

seres

A-List Customer
Messages
457
Location
Alaska
1. What parts were customized or made to order?
2. How is your suit size?
3 What kind of zipper did you get with your jacket?....

Beautiful jacket, and the fit looks perfect! I'm thinking about something similar, so answers to these questions would help me, too. Thanks!
 

Guppy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,339
Location
Cleveland, OH
Thanks forgot sleeve opening picture
9fcb0e80dde0bab17005e5f8909f036c.jpg

I like a full gusset cuff. But one disadvantage is the gusset material can bunch up and become uncomfortable, particularly if the gusset material is just as thick as the rest of the sleeve, as it is here.

Really, there are three types of zip sleeves: ungussetted, a thin gusset (a single thickness of leather, often of a thinner material than the jacket shell), and a full thickness gusset.

Each has its pros and cons.

Ungussetted sleeves can be the best (tightest) fitting when zipped, but when unzipped they can flap around, or peel back. The sleeve protects your wrist only when zipped closed. You unzip them to take the jacket off, because the cuff is too tight to pull your hand through otherwise (assuming a proper fit). If you wreck and the zipper fails scraping along the pavement, there's nothing behind it to protect your skin.

Full thickness gussets provide equal durability and protection whether zipped or unzipped. Unzipping allows some air flow through the sleeve, which can help a good deal to cool down at speed. Whether open or closed, that full thickness leather is going to protect you. But when zipped, that bunched up thick leather will be, if not uncomfortable, then less comfortable than the other types. That lump of folded-over leather can put pressure on your wrist, and will make it a bit less flexible. It gets better with time, though, as the leather will eventually break in and fold naturally in a way that is more comfortable than new, but it's never going to fit like a properly fitted ungussetted cuff.

Thin gussets are perhaps the best of both worlds, and that web of leather will keep the cuff together against your skin, preventing it from flapping back in the event that you wreck and have a zipper fail, or if the zipper is merely open. But it's not as durable as the full thickness gusset is. The thin gusset material can be prone to wearing out, and is more likely to tear after years of use/abuse (at which point I guess you have the option of cutting it out and turning it into an ungussetted sleeve). But when zipped up, they won't bunch up as much as a full thickness gusset, and will be more comfortable. The zipped up fit won't be as tight as an ungussetted zip cuff, though.
 

Hammerklavier

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
Location
San antonio
I like a full gusset cuff. But one disadvantage is the gusset material can bunch up and become uncomfortable, particularly if the gusset material is just as thick as the rest of the sleeve, as it is here.

Really, there are three types of zip sleeves: ungussetted, a thin gusset (a single thickness of leather, often of a thinner material than the jacket shell), and a full thickness gusset.

Each has its pros and cons.

Ungussetted sleeves can be the best (tightest) fitting when zipped, but when unzipped they can flap around, or peel back. The sleeve protects your wrist only when zipped closed. You unzip them to take the jacket off, because the cuff is too tight to pull your hand through otherwise (assuming a proper fit). If you wreck and the zipper fails scraping along the pavement, there's nothing behind it to protect your skin.

Full thickness gussets provide equal durability and protection whether zipped or unzipped. Unzipping allows some air flow through the sleeve, which can help a good deal to cool down at speed. Whether open or closed, that full thickness leather is going to protect you. But when zipped, that bunched up thick leather will be, if not uncomfortable, then less comfortable than the other types. That lump of folded-over leather can put pressure on your wrist, and will make it a bit less flexible. It gets better with time, though, as the leather will eventually break in and fold naturally in a way that is more comfortable than new, but it's never going to fit like a properly fitted ungussetted cuff.

Thin gussets are perhaps the best of both worlds, and that web of leather will keep the cuff together against your skin, preventing it from flapping back in the event that you wreck and have a zipper fail, or if the zipper is merely open. But it's not as durable as the full thickness gusset is. The thin gusset material can be prone to wearing out, and is more likely to tear after years of use/abuse (at which point I guess you have the option of cutting it out and turning it into an ungussetted sleeve). But when zipped up, they won't bunch up as much as a full thickness gusset, and will be more comfortable. The zipped up fit won't be as tight as an ungussetted zip cuff, though.

Thanks for your information!
 

Hammerklavier

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
Location
San antonio
The jacket looks great on you. My friend had a very nice one in the old pattern. It took a long time to break it in. He did ride on it just about every day.

I am in the market to get one from LW also. However, I do not get straight answers from him regarding sizes. It is a frustrating part of dealing with Stu.
I was wondering several things:

1. What parts were customized or made to order?
2. How is your suit size?
3 What kind of zipper did you get with your jacket?

If you have time, Can you please let me know?

Thanks!

Sorry about confusion, I mean, my suburban and test bought from his ebay store, and this time I called him to ordered one, this was going to be a custom jacket, because he advise me to size up to 46 on j23 which is very trim jacket, and he said if sleeve(he said sleeve on 46 is 26") is too long, he will make another one for me.
The zipper is Scoville#10, same as my Suburban.

My last suite was made many many years ago, I don't remember the number. But I need made another soon. I am 6 feet, 176 lbs, 43 chest.


Hope it helps.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,321
Location
Germany
What a beast! Congratulations! It's so unfortunate that LW is so expensive as EU resident because you pay another 300+ USD for duty and import taxes and the EUR is so weak at moment, otherwise I wouldve already gotten the LW Roadhouse which is a awesome and unique style imho.
 

Zinkdiz

New in Town
Messages
16
Great jacket and great fit, let's see it in 5 years from now, quite heavy beast to break in it seems :D.
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,301
Location
Canada
I have had six Lost World jackets including the J23.
Your jacket is amazing!!!! That thick horsehide is simply stunning and will protect you and serve you very well.
Inevitable that the gussets would bunch like that- Perfectly normal and acceptable. Will soften over the next few decades ;) no worries. A fine masterpiece. Congratulations.
When wearing the J23 you can zip or not zip- the option is luxuriously yours. I also have the J100 in 3 oz; quite the contrast to the 4 oz plus but highly recommended. As special as Stuart's thick horse hide is the 3 oz hide is even more special in my opinion. Suburban also highly recommended.
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,301
Location
Canada
What a beast! Congratulations! It's so unfortunate that LW is so expensive as EU resident because you pay another 300+ USD for duty and import taxes and the EUR is so weak at moment, otherwise I wouldve already gotten the LW Roadhouse which is a awesome and unique style imho.

The Roadhouse is a fine jacket. Gave mine to my son and he loves it.
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,362
Location
claremont california
Thanks for the information regarding size. Basically, you got an size 46 no alterations? That looks great on you the jacket is pure quality. You see, Stu would not tell me the arm length for a 44. I am guessing is around 25.5.

Thanks for sharing the information with us!
 

sweetfights

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,301
Location
Canada
Thanks for the information regarding size. Basically, you got an size 46 no alterations? That looks great on you the jacket is pure quality. You see, Stu would not tell me the arm length for a 44. I am guessing is around 25.5.

Thanks for sharing the information with us!

Yes- about 25.5 sleeve length for the 44 regular. But I added sleeve length to mine for 26 inches. My 44 fit very nicely. The J23 and J100 are the two jackets I have had from Stu that required a 44 as opposed to the 42 I get for most other Lost World jackets ie. Suburban and Roadhouse. The dedicated LW motorcycle jackets run small. My chest is 42 inches and 42 is what I normally wear.
And Aero fit is a whole other story....
 

Hammerklavier

One of the Regulars
Messages
284
Location
San antonio
No, don't guess the measurements for LW, I talked to him this morning, and he confirmed that he did some modification on sleeve based on my spec, so just give him a call. Don't send him email.
 

devilish

A-List Customer
Messages
473
Location
Devon
What I have always done with any jacket that has a full gusset sleeve is to leave the first couple inches or so unzipped. Makes it much more comfortable, leaves room for a watch and imho looks better too.
 

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