Looking for info on jacket materials/components

[karatepig]

I have been digging around here and on google, but haven't been found any sources of in-depth information on this. I am looking to order a custom leather jacket, and would like to read about different lining materials, zippers, etc. The maker (Johnson Leathers) told me that some of his customers provide their own lining. If I learn about a material that I really like, then I may do that (this will be a cold weather jacket). Anyway, if one of you gents could point me in the direction of some articles o guides, I'd appreciate it.

 

[nick123]

I can't recommend a material, but Alan might have told you about these guys for linings.
http://www.britexfabrics.com
I think you can order from Locharron Scotland directly too.

 

[karatepig]

Thanks for that. Anybody want to comment on the characteristics of these different materials? I am very inexperienced in all this, though I have always heard that wool is warm, and (when wet) cotton is rotten. But then again, wool is supposedly itchy, and I see many different varieties. Then there are a plethora of synthetics....

 

[Seb Lucas]

I've collected leather jackets for three decades. There's really no reason to go past cotton drill. It's tough and practical. When I buy from Johnson L I generally get them to use the incredibly strong, breathable polyester twill. Gibson and Barnes use this material.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Only trouble with many twills and drills is they are not very warm for some cold U.S. weather.
HD

 

[Windstorm81]

Warm Linings:

In my opinion, nothing beats nice Thick Shearling but it does add a bit of bulk. Alpaca Wool (Brown or Burgundy) would be next best option.

Warmth wise: Shearling > Alpaca Wool > Harris Tweed Wool

 

[Peacoat]

I have leather jackets with all of the above linings and then some. The only one that is really warm is the shearling. The wool tweeds and the alpacas are thin linings. Don't depend on them for real warmth in colder temperatures. Although, my Highwayman (4 oz. cowhide) with Alpaca does a fairly good job.

My warmest leather jacket, other than the shearling, is the Johnson quilted Thinsulate type lining that comes standard with their motorcycle jackets. That lining, coupled with the close fit of the Johnson, keeps me warm into the upper twenties to lower thirties (but not while riding). Lower than that, and if I want to wear leather, I wear shearling.

You don't say where in the US you are located, but if you are in a cold weather climate, a leather jacket might not be your best choice for warmth. And shearling might not be the best choice to marry with a Johnson jacket, as I don't think Alan has any experience working with it.

If you want a cool zipper pull, go with Johnson's standard paper clip zipper pull. Being a former military pilot, it is very appealing to me, and to a bunch of others.

And, BTW, welcome to the Lounge. PC.

 

[Fanch]

I surmise that you are looking at buying a Johnson Leather jacket, and everything I have seen on TFL makes me think that would be an excellent choice. If used as a cold weather jacket, my recommendation would be to go with a back length that at least covers the top part of your back pockets which is ~28" for me (I am 6'2"). My personal preference is cotton drill and then layering with either a Filson moleskin vest or Filson 24 oz Mackinaw vest. By layering with the appropriate vest, or not wearing a vest at all, allows greater versatility if this your only leather jacket.

Below is the URL to a previous FL thread from another member describing his JL jacket that IMO has virtually all of the characteristics for which I might want if I were in your situation.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...mont-Leather&highlight=johnson+leather+jacket

 

[karatepig]

I live in Southern California, but I don't even wear a sweater unless it's in the forties. A t-shirt and a single, cheap, buttoned up, made in china garage-sale cotton jacket has been adequate for me in 14 degree weather. Honestly, it's my hands that freeze. Additionally, I'll be leaving California, and heading somewhere further east within a year (it depends on a career decision I'm going to have to make in a few months). The consensus so far seems to be that lining choice doesn't have the drastic impact on heat retention that I had thought (except for the thinsulate and thick alpaca). Huh. How about comfort and durability? I should mention I really like the look of the Locharron tartans, though they are apparently a bit more pricey.
Peacoat: Funny you mention aviation I'm a private pilot (well, almost), and first got the idea for a custom leather jacket while climbing into an un-heated cockpit on a frigid January morning. At 11000', with a bottle of frozen water next to me, that notion was reinforced.

 

[Fanch]

In what kind of airplane were you flying at 11,000' that didn't have cabin heat? Given what you have said, I still think you should consider a lining that would give you versatility and layer underneath. Unless you go with a heavier Locharron tartan (strome), I am unsure that the lighter ones would work significantly better than cotton drill. Feedback from many on TFL is that alpaca can be very itchy, although that is not HD's experience. If you live in S California, maybe you can plan a trip N to visit Alan at JL.

 

[karatepig]

A Cessna 120, whose previous owner had deemed it necessary to disconnect the cabin heat, for some arcane reason.[huh] Unfortunately, So Cal is a big place, and it'd take a couple hundred dollars and two days to get to JL and back. Alan doesn't think it's necessary, and has offered to send me an m200 for fitting purposes. He's also going to send me an email showing what materials he has on hand (cotton flannel, twill, and something else, if I remember correctly). Of course, he threw out the option of supplying my own lining if I want to. Sometimes lots of options can be a hindrance.

 

[Fanch]

The fit jacket that Alan sends is a wonderful boon so that hopefully all you need to adjust are the body and sleeve lengths. Be sure to ask him which of the linings are most durable. Don't have the sleeves lined with a material that is grabby. BTW what were you doing taking a Cessna 120 up to 11,000 feet? :eeek: I was told that USAF pilots called the Cessna 180 "The Flying Speed Brake."

 

[karatepig]

What you believe I was clearing an 8000' ridge-line, so that I could ride the snowboard I had seat-belted in next to me?

 

[Peacoat]

If you are going to be spending any time at 11,000' in an unheated cabin, you need to look at a B-3, or similar thick shearling jacket. What Alan can offer you isn't going to do the job. At that altitude, you will need electric gloves and socks in an unheated cabin. It starts to get complicated. Might be better to just reconnect the bleed air and be warm.

 

[karatepig]

I would have reconnected it eventually, but I sold the 120 a couple months ago, and it will be a while before I get another one. Your comment surprises me a bit. It was cold, don't get me wrong, but I certainly didn't feel the need for electrified garments
Anyway, this jacket will be staying on the ground for the most part, and I don't ride a motorcycle. I have a pair of gloves that proudly advertise 40 grams of thinsulate, giving me the impression that it goes between the shell and the lining. Is that right?

 

[Peacoat]

Yes, the Thinsulate goes between the outer shell of the glove and the lining. With no wind to strip away the warmth (as on a motorcycle), the gloves ought to work fine.

 

[karatepig]

All right then, with your (and everyone else's) help, I've at least partly made up my mind. I'll get Thinsulate in the jacket, covered with something else, said material to be determined by its' durability and aesthetics. If I ever journey to Antartica, I'll just pony up for a heavy parka
As for the zipper, well, I'll just look at what Alan has to offer and select one.

 

[Peacoat]

You won't need to do an extra liner if you get the Thinsulate. Alan's Thinsulate type liner is durable enough that you won't need another liner to protect it. It is also relatively warm. It is the jacket I will wear today when I go out with our forecast high of 34 and sunny.

 

[karatepig]

What does Alan's thinsulate lining look like? How does it feel?

 

[Peacoat]

It isn't labeled as Thinsulate; that's why I call it a Thinsulate "type" lining. It looks like the standard Thinsulate quilted lining. Thin and lightweight.