Looking for a truly classic navy suit.

[Doublegun]

I am not looking for anything truly vintage, just a classic American-made navy suit. For the past 20-years most of my suits have come from Jos. Banks and I can't say that I have been disappointed. However some have been better made than others. My biggest pet piece is the bubbling/wrinkling that has occurred on chest and shoulders due to the separation of the fabric and the backing.

I am now looking for a well made suit and am thinking of Hart, Schaffner and Marx or Hickey Freeman. I don't really want to pay the price for a suit from HF but I will if it's that much better quality. Other than HS&M and HF what other American manufacturers should I consider?

Thanks,

JDG

 

[Tomasso]

Other than HS&M and HF what other American manufacturers should I consider?

Oxxford is considered to be the best American made suit. They are hand sewn throughout so you won't get that puckering and bubbling from the glue/fusing found on cheaper suits. You can find their new RTW on Ebay at a substantial discount; pre-owned even cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Suits-/3001/i.html?_nkw=oxxford


[video=vimeo;14293047]http://vimeo.com/14293047[/video]

 

[herringbonekid]

Oxxford is considered to be the best American made suit.

i know very little about modern American RTW. can you give us a top five ? would it include Brooks Bros. ?

 

[Guttersnipe]

Doublegun, what caused your suits to bubble like that is something called "fusing" -- a process where the canvas interior padding of a jacket is glued rather than sewn -- which used to be indicative of cheap suits. In today's environment of disposable clothing, however, many expensive designer suits are also fused. A "full canvas" jacket has all the interior padding sewn in. Usually higher quality materials are used on canvased suits too. The highest quality is considered a hand canvas (where the sewing is done by hand). Over time, fusing breaks down, which can cause bubbling.

Unfortunately a lot of American brands like Brooks Brothers, J Press, Hart Schaffner & Marx, and Southwick don't offer general lines that are fully canvased. Also it's worth noting that the vast majority of Brooks Brothers suits are not made in the US.

The top trad brands within the price range you mentioned that I know to be fully canvased are: Hickey Freeman, H Freeman, who are not the same as Hickey Freeman, and Samuelson. All are made in the USA, except Samelsohn, which is a Canadian company.

 

[Paul Roerich]

would it include Brooks Bros. ?

Not now.

 

[Doublegun]

I refuse to shop Brooks Brothers for several reasons the biggest of which is the store in Somerset Mall in Troy, Michigan is staffed by the largest collection of a$$es I have ever encountered in one retail venue. Walking in the store is like walking into a museum of arrogant hucksters from the past. The fact that a lot of their clothing is off-shored does not surprise me at all. In fact, for the money, Jos Banks is a better place to shop than BB.

For a reality check this afternoon I dropped in a local establishment that sells Oxxford Suits. YIKES! Ok, I'll spend close to a grand on an Aero jacket but I am can not spend the $3,000 starting price for a suit.

It just shouldn't be that hard to buy good quality garments here in the states.

 

[Paul Roerich]

Ok, I'll spend close to a grand on an Aero jacket but I can not spend the $3,000 starting price for a suit.

Same suits, lower prices: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw="oxxford"+blue+suit&_sacat=0


This one sold for nothing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OXXFORD-CLO...=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

[Rudie]

If you're not too tall go vintage. You'll probably get better quality for a much lower price.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Most of those retailers are hit or miss with in-store service. I've had the same experience with Hickey Freeman's SF store staff, but Brooks Brothers off Union Square has alway treated me great.

My recommendation is to use the Oxxford representative to dial in the size and cut that works for you. Once you do, shop for new with tags Oxxford items on eBay. I've done that with Canali and managed to pay 25-30% of retail several times.

Also, the brands I recommended above all do traveling made-to-measure trunk shows at stores that carry their products. When they do, they typically offer 20% discounts. I know for a fact that Samuelsohn doesn't even charge extra for MTM items!

So long story short, it's not impossible to get well made US or Canadian made suits. You just have to dig a little, but I feel your frustration. When I finished school and started building a non-vintage suit wardrobe for work, I was really annoyed at the sometime terrible quality some brands ask huge sums for. Buying modern men's wear for work has also totally changed my perspective on vintage pricing.

 

[Tomasso]

Same suits, lower prices: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw="oxxford"+blue+suit&_sacat=0


This one sold for nothing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OXXFORD-CLO...=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

You can lead a horse to water........

 

[Doublegun]

Are the Oxxford suits on eBay for real? Seriously, all I can think of is Steve Martin in the re-boot of Father of the Bride in a Blue Armani suit.

 

[Paul Roerich]

Are the Oxxford suits on eBay for real? Seriously, all I can think of is Steve Martin in the re-boot of Father of the Bride in a Blue Armani suit.

Yes, the ones that I posted links to are for real.

 

[filfoster]

Mr. Lyles states the concensus of another clothing forum, www.askandyaboutclothes.com at the Trad forum. They are adamant about the quality of Oxxford. I have never owned one myself.
Brooks Brothers has become the favorite villain in the public pillory of clothing enthusiasts. I have experienced firsthand, and recently, the slide in quality but I remain committed to the brand for convenience (it's accross the street, fergodsakes) and the general quality is still good enough for my mortal remains. I am now so slim on my heart attack diet (6' 2", 155lbs, 31" waist) that I actually wear the Fitzgerald cut 'Suiting Essentials' MTM and like them very much. These are affordable, especially when purchased at their increasingly frequent sales.
The sales associate who has helped me for over 25 years deserves some loyalty. He occasionally grants me an extra discount, if not for pity, then to stop my shameful whining.
And I bought a plain Navy one last week, to the point of the OP.

 

[Tomasso]

Yes, the ones that I posted links to are for real.

Oxxford is not a brand that's high on the knock-off artists list. All the hand work is too hard to fake and the brand is nowhere near as well known as the top designers.

 

[Paul Roerich]

Problem solved, Doublegun. Now ... go get 'em!

 

[Doublegun]

Problem solved, Doublegun. Now ... go get 'em!

Thanks Paul. Tally, ho!

 

[Paul Roerich]

That's the spirit! :eusa_clap