Looking for a first leather jacket, likely the only one I'll have for a long time.

[HoosierDaddy]

I too think that Johnson Leather would be worth a look and phone call to discuss your needs.
They can come up with a lot more than is on their website..and within your price range.
HD

 

[Jeff M]

I too think that Johnson Leather would be worth a look and phone call to discuss your needs.
They can come up with a lot more than is on their website..and within your price range.
HD

Yes.
Johnson's offers many more designs just what you see on their web site...including the option to custom design your own jacket....with input form them as to what is feasible and what isn't. A good friend of mine has a one off Johnson's he designed with them a couple of years ago in buffalo hide. Unique jacket, very well made.

 

[nick123]

Here are some poorly-photographed pics of my Johnson M-120 in the dark brown goat. Excuse the dirty fishing shirt. It's 85 over here today.

 

[JVK]

That's a great jacket, thanks for taking those, Nick. How old is it now?

 

[nick123]

About 1 year. It's been worn heavily. It's chrome tanned, 2.5 oz. When I first handled the jacket I wondered if I did the right thing, as it is very thin. But goatskin is exceptionally durable.

 

[jack miranda]

I've skipped over all the replies to your initial post

so that I could respond without distraction from own thoughts on your question.

As with many members here, I've owned a lot of leather jackets since my first more than forty years ago. I've pictures scattered all over this forum of my various purchases and projects, and, sales. At the heart of it all was/is a search for a jacket that, when I put it on, says, "This is me. This is who I am." And, I think, only we few, mad aficionados get it that, more than many other garments, a leather jacket proclaims that. Wool, cotton, goretex (!!!?). No.

So, your pursuit of a leather jacket to last you down the years is a good chase. But, if you've been hanging around here for very long, more important than our wise commentary and sage advice are the great photo essays members have provided, the description of fit and form, and, then, what jacket catches your eye, and captures your imagination?

My personal example? My first visit to Aero Leathers, more than a decade ago, I saw the 30's HB and thought, "That is the jacket." But, as it was described as a slim-fitting jacket, and, I am anything but a slim guy, I put it out of my mind as a possibility and moved on, through a lot of jackets, time, and money. Then, this past year, I ordered a 30's HB in seal goat. This jacket, along with Superior Flight Appparel's M-1941 in HH, are the two jackets above all others that speak to me. You have to find the jacket that says, "This is me." Everything else is just window dressing. You've asked a serious question: you want a jacket for all seasons. I wish you the best, JVK; post some pics when you've found your jacket.

 

[Ishmael]

You have to find the jacket that says, "This is me." Everything else is just window dressing.

Man speaks the truth.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

+1
My brown HH Bootlegger and black Stuart speak to me.
These are me!!

 

[ForestForTheTrees]

I have jackets made of cowhide and horsehide and my cycle pants are made of goatskin. All of these have their benefits and I would recommend any of these hide choices to someone having a jacket made. I almost went with bison over horsehide on my last jacket purchase and I know that I would have been happy with that choice as well. I'd have a tougher time trying to decide on the style details of the jacket and would be most concerned with getting a great fitting jacket when all is said and done. Having a custom jacket made for you is a great way to go and is obtainable within the budget you've set for yourself.

Once you decide on a style and choose a shop to build you a jacket, have them send you plenty of swatches as you might find an option that appeals to you that you hadn't counted on. You've found a goldmine of information in this site so you're already off to a good start in the search for your jacket.

Good luck!

 

[JVK]

so that I could respond without distraction from own thoughts on your question.

As with many members here, I've owned a lot of leather jackets since my first more than forty years ago. I've pictures scattered all over this forum of my various purchases and projects, and, sales. At the heart of it all was/is a search for a jacket that, when I put it on, says, "This is me. This is who I am." And, I think, only we few, mad aficionados get it that, more than many other garments, a leather jacket proclaims that. Wool, cotton, goretex (!!!?). No.

So, your pursuit of a leather jacket to last you down the years is a good chase. But, if you've been hanging around here for very long, more important than our wise commentary and sage advice are the great photo essays members have provided, the description of fit and form, and, then, what jacket catches your eye, and captures your imagination?

My personal example? My first visit to Aero Leathers, more than a decade ago, I saw the 30's HB and thought, "That is the jacket." But, as it was described as a slim-fitting jacket, and, I am anything but a slim guy, I put it out of my mind as a possibility and moved on, through a lot of jackets, time, and money. Then, this past year, I ordered a 30's HB in seal goat. This jacket, along with Superior Flight Appparel's M-1941 in HH, are the two jackets above all others that speak to me. You have to find the jacket that says, "This is me." Everything else is just window dressing. You've asked a serious question: you want a jacket for all seasons. I wish you the best, JVK; post some pics when you've found your jacket.

Great post, Jack.

I came in just wanting a jacket I could wear as much as possible, in the sense that it would look decent in almost any occasion. The flight jackets kind of drew me in that way, there's a sort of timeless yet slightly rugged feel to them that I felt could be either supremely casual or nice over a button-down. I considered my existing wardrobe and what would look good with that; I considered my hair color, my facial structure; even how it'd look with the denim I usually use. Good considerations, to be sure, but practical.

I've come to realize in this thread that that's not exactly what I want. If I close my eyes and try to picture myself in a leather jacket, as ideal as I possibly can, I visualize a half-belt style. Something close to this, with a few slight tweaks, in a rich or even chocolate brown. That's the jacket I identify with and the one I want. That's my jacket.

I don't need ball and chain zippers, I don't have a motorcyclist's rugged considerations (I don't ride personally), and I'm not looking for a perfect reproduction of an older creation. I would still love a G-1, in dark brown goat. Haha oh God, I would. But if I were to get just one jacket, it's the half-belt. An offshoot of the above and the Highwayman, the Alexander Leathers Roadster, the 30's and 50's halfbelts. I think I'm going to get it done, and have sent Johnson Leathers an email about seeing what I can work out. Odd as it sounds I don't even know if I need the horsehide - I'll be looking at the cowhide options as well as some lighter horse variants (closer to 3 oz. probably), and maybe I'll even drive up to San Francisco from LA sometime to check things out (and have fun in the city too, haha). And it's not like this is a horribly impractical choice, either. The flight jackets go with a lot but so does this.

You guys have been phenomenally helpful and I couldn't be more excited about this.

 

[pipvh]

Meanwhile, you can pick up a genuine vintage G1 very easily and for a fraction of the cost of a new one. For instance, there's an early 1960s contract size 42 on ebay at the moment with bidding at £6.50...

 

[JVK]

Maybe! I'll keep an eye out. Vintage/repros aren't my thing so much as a usable jacket, but a quality frugal option, on the other hand, haha that's worth taking a look at.

Wanted to rack your brains one more time, though. If I were to get a cowhide jacket from Johnson (presumably in something close to a 3 oz. weight, since I don't ride), what options do I need to be cognizant of in terms of durability? Naked cowhide sounds nice, but I've also heard it's something you don't get wet at all costs. I don't need that kind of upkeep level, I just want to be able to wear the jacket. Price aside for something in the lighter weight cowhide range, what would you recommend (i.e. chrome-tanned vs. veg-tanned, a certain sourcer for the leather, no idea)?

 

[pipvh]

I'd honestly recommend goatskin. It's light, tough as nails, doesn't mark like cowhide and looks great right from the word go. I know price is an issue for you but look at it as a long-term investment. Gibson & Barnes have a few non-flight styles in goat, a couple of which look roughly like the Lost Worlds jacket that you like (at less than half the price).

 

[JVK]

So far, the plan's to see what Johnson Leathers can do and get a price set before I consider any other options. I'm currently asking about their cowhide selection (and am still not sure what would hold up best to general environmental wear and tear but supple enough for casual use, i.e. no motorcyclist concerns, if anyone has some feedback there), but there's definitely the possibility of purchasing a goat halfbelt from them instead. Nothing's set in stone yet. If I were to purchase a flight jacket, it would be goat guaranteed.

Sadly, as bad as I want it, I really don't have the choice of getting two jackets (if I were to purchase a second, it would be a dark brown goat G-1, likely the G&B). I'd been thinking about spending closer to $1,000 for a single jacket, but that was due to a want to isolate a jacket I really, truly wanted... I don't want to "settle" for two great but not ideal jackets. Even if I might have the funds to keep the combined total to close to $1,000 after this Johnson project, I don't know if I'd do it, I may just save the remainder of that disposal income on furniture and supplies for when I move into my apartment this fall before law school.

All tentative at this point. Goat is great though... Just waiting to see how my options pan out!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I strongly suggest calling Johnson Leathers and talking over your concerns. Personally I'm not a big fan of goat..but Johnson seems to have..or can get..several nice hides..including 'Bison' which is a durable hide and comfortable to wear.
HD

 

[ForestForTheTrees]

I'm with HD. Give JL a call and ask to speak with Alan. He'll be the best resource to answer all of your questions. The bison hide mentioned by HD that JL offers is quite spectacular in my opinion and can be skived to a thickness that works for you. I would note that for a thick hide, the bison is is extremely supple even at 4+ oz. and would be comfortable right out of the box. Somewhat like goatskin on steroids, bombproof. In addition, when I talked to Alan last year, he had a beautiful 3oz. dark brown cowhide that had some great graining and the swatch I received felt pretty supple. I believe that Seb Lucas might of had his JL half-belt constructed with this leather. Alan will have no problems sharing his opinions regarding the durability of each available hide.

I had JL build my half belt based off of their M200L model, which doesn't even appear on their website. The beauty of this is that they were able to totally nail the fit of my jacket just based off of a test-fitting of a stock M200L jacket that was sent to me. I sent back a few photos of me wearing the stock jacket and we had a few follow-up conversations. Soon enough, a perfect fitting jacket arrived at my doorstep. While all of this would come in within your budget, I consider it to be priceless.

 

[bretron]

Opinions are like a**holes, but don't pooh pooh the goat, especially a veg tanned hide

 

[JVK]

I'm with HD. Give JL a call and ask to speak with Alan. He'll be the best resource to answer all of your questions. The bison hide mentioned by HD that JL offers is quite spectacular in my opinion and can be skived to a thickness that works for you. I would note that for a thick hide, the bison is is extremely supple even at 4+ oz. and would be comfortable right out of the box. Somewhat like goatskin on steroids, bombproof. In addition, when I talked to Alan last year, he had a beautiful 3oz. dark brown cowhide that had some great graining and the swatch I received felt pretty supple. I believe that Seb Lucas might of had his JL half-belt constructed with this leather. Alan will have no problems sharing his opinions regarding the durability of each available hide.

I had JL build my half belt based off of their M200L model, which doesn't even appear on their website. The beauty of this is that they were able to totally nail the fit of my jacket just based off of a test-fitting of a stock M200L jacket that was sent to me. I sent back a few photos of me wearing the stock jacket and we had a few follow-up conversations. Soon enough, a perfect fitting jacket arrived at my doorstep. While all of this would come in within your budget, I consider it to be priceless.

Thank you so much. That's a very helpful post.

Since I can't PM (do I need a certain post count, maybe?), I hope he sees this... If anyone could PM him to check here that'd be great!

I have a 1940's style half-belt by Johnson in 3oz brow cowhide - they copied from photos a Californian half-belt. It's as lovely as my Horsehide Aero. Certainly it is as well made (possibly better) than the Aero.

They can make anything at a decent price with reduced waiting. I also have a Johnson's goatskin in a cafe racer. The goat is nice but fairly thin - 2.5oz. It would work as a half-belt but I prefer the cowhide.

If you don't ride a motorbike you never need hide thicker than 3oz. It's pointless and less pleasant to wear. I personally prefer 2.5oz for a daily wearer. Remember for warmth it's the lining and what you wear underneath that counts. Leather is not warm, not matter how thick.

Don't underestimate cowhide. I have cowhide jackets I've worn for 20 years with no problem.

Seb, would you be willing to post photos of your 3 oz. brown cowhide jacket? I'd be looking for something very similar in a dark brown!

Does it hold up to a little water okay, and is it the naked cowhide or another?

 

[Dr H]

Opinions are like a**holes, but don't pooh pooh the goat, especially a veg tanned hide

+1
I have a Good Wear Perry 23377 A-2 and a LVC Menlo Cossack in dark russet, veg tanned goat and I wear them more than the capeskin at the moment.
Lightweight, very durable and, if the hide is a quality one, it'll develop great character with subtle marbling, areas of gloss and dull hide, and pale russet/amber is areas of higher wear.
Over the years the goat jackets that I have owned have far outnumbered horse or steer. Probably second only to capeskin if I total the numbers.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Hi JVK,

Here's the half belf Johnson's made for me. The brown leather is not naked cow but "finished" cow. Naked hide by the way is fine in the rain but it does get soaked a bit quicker. It dries up fine. I have naked cow jackets that I wear in winter without any issues.

This half-belt jacket was made to my specs and by sending photos to Alan. It's basically a copy of a Californian half-belt, but not a repo. For me a half belt needs a yolk to compliment the belt and the Californian version I saw (soon I beleive to be made by Bill Kelso, since Platon just bought an original) is my favourite pattern. A version is worn by Bruce Willis in that B-movie, Surrogates. I'm not concerned about exact measurements or vintage zips. The size 44 here is custom made to my measurements. The hide is aging well and graining nicely. The same weight as my Aero HH halfbelt.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95447776@N05/8706906576/in/photostream/